rear brakes- changing pads

05-26-2009, 10:35 AM
I tried to change my rear brake pads this weekend on my 97 Z28. I have done the front and figured it was the same.... I guess I was wrong.

I used a C clamp to compress the piston, then removed the caliper. I put on the new pads but the caliper now does not fit. The space between the new pads is to small. I tried removing the new pads and using the old pads as a buffer and compressing the piston again. I noticed the piston does come back out a little after compressing it. I also removed the cap to the brake fluid reservoir on the brake booster and compressed the piston again. The fluid level never changed and I still couldn't get it back on. I ended up putting the old pads on it and it is sitting in the garage until I can get them changed.

05-26-2009, 03:41 PM
do you have only one side apart

05-26-2009, 03:44 PM
Yes, I only have the drivers side off. The passenger side is still together and untouched.

05-26-2009, 04:57 PM
the caliper piston needs to be screwed in.tool can be purchased at local shop

05-26-2009, 05:47 PM
ok, what tool name do I give them at the local parts place?
Any idea how much they run?

05-26-2009, 06:13 PM
the tool is $5 - $10 not sure of the name but let them what your trying to do(screw rear caliper pistons in)they will no what your talking about.Good Luck

05-26-2009, 06:20 PM
Thanks for all of the help.

I know just enough to be dangerous. My buddy helped me put in a water pump a week ago. I am slowly learning how to do my own minor repairs.

05-26-2009, 08:53 PM
if the piston went in with a c clamp he dose not need that tool not all rear disc breaks require them c clamp would break before the piston even budged

05-27-2009, 07:19 PM
if the piston went in with a c clamp he dose not need that tool not all rear disc breaks require them c clamp would break before the piston even budged

ok, if I don't need the tool, how do I get the extra space needed to get the caliper back on?

05-28-2009, 08:36 PM
if the piston is going in with the c clamp then open the bleeder then compress the piston if you put a peace of hose over the bleeder and put the other end of the hose under some break fluid before you compress the piston you shouldn't have to bleed the breaks when you are done

you will need to add fluid to the master cylinder i would check it before you do the other side (you probably wont lose that much but just to be safe)

05-29-2009, 09:36 AM
Thanks. I'll be trying again tomorrow.

05-29-2009, 10:56 AM
if you have rear rotors, you're definitely going to need to rotate the piston clockwise while pushing...

there are tools like this:

or a set like this:

i know pepboys have a rental tool section and they may loan you that set; i d k if autozone still rents this tool out or even advance auto parts...


edit: i cant really see inside the caliper piston to notice if you do really need to turn the piston...

did you disconnect the parking brake cable before trying to retract the piston back into the caliper housing?

05-29-2009, 12:17 PM
I did not remove the parking brake connection before compressing the caliper.

05-29-2009, 12:56 PM
there's your answer

your parking brake "thinks" it still has the old brake pads (which is thinner)

you need to disconnect it then push the pistons in es&partName=Brakes&pageId=0900c152800b8a3c&partId=0900c152800b89da

05-29-2009, 01:19 PM
I will give that a shot tomorrow.

It is interesting that the OEM shop manual does not mention this.

05-29-2009, 02:38 PM
if the parking break cable goes to the caliper you need the cube tool

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