1998 2.2L quit running

I bought it used three weeks ago. Plugs, wires, oil, filters, serpentine belt, tensioner, and all brake parts at the wheels changed.

Two days ago the check engine light came on. Yesterday, traveling at 65 mph, the car just quit running. I disconnected the battery leads and shorted them together, the car fired up, travelled 40 feet and died again. No other symptoms, just died. Now the car won't fire up.

Car has plenty of oil. No overheating. The only other thing wrong is two front tires that are out of balance, they cause the car to vibrate badly above 45 mph.

Is there a procedure to read OBD codes without a reader? Is there a specific procedure to reset the ECM/ECU? Where is the ECM/ECU located? Anyone had this same problem? Thanks.

"resetting the PCM" will do you no good! You need to find out what you are missing in order to go any further. A vehicle needs spark, fuel, and compression to run. Which one are you missing? Find this out and there will be a wealth of responses on what to do next.

Finding out what the code(s) are will also help narrow done the potential problems. You will need an OBDII code reader to do this.

My money is on either a crank sensor/module (no spark) or a fuel pump (no fuel pressure). You should be able to hear the pump run for a couple of seconds when you turn the key on?

I beg to differ, resetting the pcm and being able to move the car ruled out the timing chain and gears and a plethora of other potential mechanical problems as the cause.

Troubleshooting is an elimination game, I have eliminated the engine as a failure source, as well as reduced the probability that the fuel delivery system failed.

I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on. Are you saying there is no process to obtain the codes without a reader (one of the four questions I asked)?

BTW, you left out air when you were listing the things the engine needs to run. You may find "suck (intake fuel/air mix), squeeze (compression), bang (ignition/power), blow (exhaust)" useful to help you remember the four cycles of the internal combustion engine.

Thanks for your response.

I beg to differ, resetting the pcm and being able to move the car ruled out the timing chain and gears and a plethora of other potential mechanical problems as the cause.

It likely would have started whether or not you "reset" the PCM.

Are you saying there is no process to obtain the codes without a reader (one of the four questions I asked)?

You will need a code reader to read codes.

BTW, you left out air when you were listing the things the engine needs to run.

Compression, spark, fuel If your missing one of these than the others don't matter

You may find "suck (intake fuel/air mix), squeeze (compression), bang (ignition/power), blow (exhaust)" useful to help you remember the four cycles of the internal combustion engine.

I am well aware of how a four stroke engine works! In fact if your vehicle was sitting in front of me I would have had it diagnosed and running about 30 minutes after you made your first post. So in a way "experience" should be added to the three things an engine needs to run?

Well, like the full gas tank, 35 years experience should be enough. I posted this because I am not familiar with the vehicle's engine control system, and hoped to save myself a lot of trial and error fixing the problem, which I will do.

I am not here to get into a "mine is bigger than yours" posting contest. Please feel free to not reply in the future. Manners, like experience, are gathered over time...

I posted this because I am not familiar with the vehicle's engine control system

Please feel free to not reply in the future. Manners, like experience, are gathered over time...

If you are not familiar with the engine control system, then you shouldn't be dismissing the suggestions of someone who is. Airjer said 100% of what I or any automotive technician would have said. That said, I also feel free to not reply, because my advice will be just as "useless" as his. One may also say that having good manners would imply that when asking for help that you thank anyone kind enough to reply and just not do it if you think it's wrong. We don't get any sort of financial compensation for helping someone here, and if anything it costs us money because chances are that eventually we will help someone who would otherwise bring their car to us. I wish you the best of luck in this, but since we apparently don't know what's going on, you'll probably be on your own since after what you said nobody will be inclined to chime in.

Did you look to see if you have spark?

Even though I could hear the pump run I wanted to make sure the fuel delivery system was working. It may sound useless, but I have had two issues 0n other cars where the pump ws good but the engine was not getting gas, so last night I confirmed that fuel pressure was good all the way to the injectors. I disconnected/reconnected lines starting at the fuel pump and working to the engine, the pressure and flow are good. Tonight I start on the ignition, starting at the plugs. Will running a jumper from battery to coil work on this system? I have done this on other cars to bypass the Engine Control system and verify the primary ignition system. I have not done it on a vehicle with an ignition module such as this.

I am also concerned that water intrusion or vibration may have affected the ECM. I am going to look at the connectors to make sure they are ok. If anyone knows where the unit is located, I would appreciate that info.

Thank you for your response A, I will post what I find later this evening.

Do yourself a favor and get a spark tester. Test each plug wire at the plug. You can do this with a test light also. Two things that should be in every toolbox.

Also crank it over a couple of times and pull a plug. Are they wet with gas?

The computers are pretty tough and are rarely the problem. In the last 15 years or so I have had to replace a handful.

Thanks Airjer_, I have both in my toolbox, (actually have 4 spark testers, I am lazy, I hook them all up at once). That is my plan for this evening. I appreciate your comments on the module, I will not worry about it for now.

Thanks for your suggestions, I will post back after I get done testing.

No spark at any plug. Plugs are wet (I could smell fuel before I took them out, but...).

Finally got my hands on a code reader, here are the three that were stored in order:
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0300 Multiple random misfire
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction
I cleared the codes, cycled the ignition key, no new codes, cranked the engine, no new codes.
The O2 Sensor is shiney new.
I also noticed that the Theft Protection light never goes out, is it supposed to and when?
I don't feel like the codes are helping. Any ideas are appreciated.

I said I wouldn't, but here goes. I was in a bad mood that day to begin with, no hard feelings :)

Did the code reader give P0141 twice or was one omitted?

The security light should go out after the bulb check, staying on means that the security system is active, which I believe on yours cuts the fuel injectors. Testing it may have triggered the theft system if you cycled the key too fast or too many times. To reset the system, try to start the car, then release the key to the "on" position and wait about 10 minutes. After 10 minutes the light should go off. Try to start the car again and release the key, the light should be off now.

If your car has a tachometer, make sure the needle lifts off of 0 while cranking. If you don't have a tach, you'll need a scan tool capable of reading the engine RPM. If either reads 0 it means the CKP sensor signal isn't seen by the computer. The spark timing is based off of the CKP. The fuel injector signal is also based off the CKP sensor so the fouled plugs probably rule this out, but I prefer to check everything that could cause the problem. It's easier for me to check everything with the scan tool first, but lacking one, you may want to check the ignition module for signal in and out first.

agreed!

Thank you both for replying!

The codes are in the order that they appeared on the reader. I thought it was odd that the oil sensor was in twice, I figured the that at least the first one was old. The tach lifts off zero and the plugs are wet. After cranking it a few times there is a serious fuel smell as well, I am leaning away from gas starvation but of course have not ruled it out...

The theft system light is on steady and does not go out. I tried the 10 minute reset with no luck. I will try it again today just to make sure I gave it enough time. Is it possible something got shook loose?

I am glad you both chose to reply, your advice and knowledge have been a great help. There is no way to convey it here, other than to say I really appreciate your time.

I will post back what I find this afternoon.

Also, I keep reading about theftlock reset codes on the car's radio... does it matter that the car has an aftermarket system in it (it was installed when I bought the car?

During normal operation, the THEFT SYSTEM light
will go off after the engine is started.
If the engine stalls and the THEFT SYSTEM light
flashes, wait until e light stops flashing before trying
to restart the engine. Remember to release the key from
the START position as soon as the engine starts.
Your vehicle is equipped with the Passlock
theft-deterrent system.
Passlock is a passive theft-deterrent system. The system
is armed once the key is removed from the ignition.
Passlock enables fuel if the ignition lock cylinder is
turned with a valid key If a correct key is not used, fuel
is disabled.
If you are driving and the THEFT SYSTEM light
comes on, you will be able to restart the engine if you
turn the engine off. However, your Passlock system is
not working properly and must be serviced by your
dealer. Your vehicle is not protected by Passlock at this
time. You may also want to check the fuses (see “Fuses
and Circuit Breakers” in the Index). See your dealer
for service.
If the THEFT SYSTEM light comes on while the engine
is running, a problem has been detected and the system
may need service. See your dealer for service.
In an emergency, call the Chevrolet Roadside Assistance
Center at 1-800-CHEV-USA (1-800-243-8872).
(In Canada call 1-800-268-6800.)
2-

Since there is fuel and the theft light is not flashing I don't think that is the issue. I'm pretty sure it is normal for it to be on steady while it is being started and then will go out after it is started. The only time you need to worry is if it is flashing.

Things are pointing more and more to a module.

Agreed. Is there a procedure to test it? I am nearly convinced, but would feel better knowing before I blow 250-300 bucks for the replacement. Thanks!

You can check for power and ground on the two wire connector. Pink is 12 volt ignition and black is ground. Otherwise a lab scope would be needed to check signal in and out. You can call around and see if one of your local parts stores has a module tester. They are not always accurate if the problem occurs under load but since the vehicle is dead cold it may not be a bad option.

I agree that a lab scope is the best way to test it, but lacking one you can use an AC voltmeter if it goes low enough to accurately measure a 5v signal, that at least tells you "yes there is a signal" or "no there is not a signal". Generally if there is no signal a code won't be set, the presence of a bad signal is what usually sets a code. I always forget which year they switched to the ignition coils and module being up on the rear of the head, but if yours is the one that's mounted on the lower left side of the block, I would personally rather not have to remove it if it can be tested on the vehicle. If it is down there and you end up removing the ignition module, replace the CKP sensor while you've got it out, since the module must be removed to replace the sensor if it ever goes bad. Be gentle with the sensor, I've been lucky and never broken one off inside the block, but from what I hear they're a PITA to try to dig out of there,

Thanks J-Ri, I do have a digital multimeter that will read well below 1v accurately. If I am understanding these posts correctly, the 12v and ground readings that AIJer_ discussed are the 12v in to the module. What should I be reading at 5v?

BTW, the coil pack and module are on the end of the head rather than low on the block. Thanks for your help!

The signal from the CKP sensor is 5v, as will be any other computer wires. I believe that the power is the only 12v to it, but I'm not sure about that without looking at a wiring diagram. One of these days I'm going to take my laptop in to work and install ShopKey on it so I can give this info when it's needed. I can't tell you how many times I've typed "without looking at a wiring diagram" :) Since it's up top and easy to remove, it's probably best to just pull it off and have it tested at an auto parts store.

Cool, thanks!

The ignition module worked. Re-tested, no codes. drove it 20 mile, seems to be fine.

Gents, I learned an awful lot about how this system works from both of you. I appreciate your patience and help!