Mr color red

Is Mr color #68 Monza Red darker than #3 red? Anyone painted the Monza Red over white primer before?

Thanks

IIRC, Monza red is brighter than #3 red. When I used No3 red on a white base coat, it turned out darker than I wanted, like a deep Alfa Romeo red. Monza red, on the other hand, feels more like a neutral red. Both are somewhat transluscent, so the base color plays a major role in the outcome.

Thank you, hirofkd.

I'm looking for the red like the Ferrari 60 years banner in the signature. I think #3 will do it.

That's the color they call "Red Madder". I painted a Ferrari 330 P4 like 3 years ago and looks beautifull, this a real nice paint.I was my first attempt with Gunze lacquers and after read here of some fear of some modelers I now use them almost exclusivelly. These are awesome paints and flow real nice if you thinn them apropiatelly. I guess are the most used in Japan, I guess Hiroaki can tell you more about them.

Here are a couple of pictures of it:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC02481.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC02486.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC02488.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/gsl05_00205.jpg


Thank you, hirofkd.

I'm looking for the red like the Ferrari 60 years banner in the signature. I think #3 will do it.

Hi,

Sorry to interrupt your post guys but, I´d like to "start" using these Mr. Color Paints, I´m planning on buying almost all the basic colors to use them on the car bodies that I plan to build (and in some other parts of them of course), but... In your experience are they really reliable, how do you polish them? Would the Tamiya compund series work? Do you use the same line of Gunze-GSI bottles/spray cans to clear cote them? Can I use any other kind of clear (spray cans) like tamiya´s ts13 or some automotive urethane? As Porsnatic said, thinning correctly is the key, but can you use some other lacquer thinner or is it better to stick to the brand´s one?

Sorry to ask you all this stuff, I´m kind of new to the hobbie, but I dont like to use the Tamiya cans (that everybody tell me to use), I want to use my airbrush the most I can. Hope you can understand my point.:screwy:

Thanks in advice for any kind of help that you can give me.
Have a nice day :bigthumb:

-dieseldub.

If you are familar with tamiya lacquers cans, is the same thing. Just take care of thinning, 1:1 to 1:2 paint-thinner ratio. If you use more paint than needed against thinner ratio, you will see spider webs like paint flow through the airbrush everywhere. They also come in real nice cans that flow like an airbrush, to me, better that Tamiyas.


The only advantage is that Gunze has a bigger line, they come in 10 oz jars enough for a couple of bodies, and this jars are cheaper than tamiya cans. The only problem, although it has been eliminating, its the availabilty of them. In the last year, more and more US stores are stocking them and all their Mr. this and Mr. that line. I was at the great models hobbies warehouse a couple of weeks ago, when I was in the GSL, and saw it.

Here's a link for a live catalog from then where you can see all their stuff, very interesting though:

http://www.mr-hobby.com/degilog/book_swf.html


Polishing of this paint, like I told you, is the same like other paints, with polishing pads from 3200-12,000, or 3000-4000 or 6000 and then a compund like Tamiya's. I had seen videos in Youtube where Japanese modelers just use Tamiya's 2,000 sandpaper and then Finisher's compounds.

I had used their CL-184 super clear II and its great. You can also use any other kind of clear even including automotive ones if you like. I highly recommend their primers: Mr. Surfacer 500, 1000, and the Mr. White Base 1000. The 500 can be use like a liquid putty, although I had used it with the airbrush to cover areas that need a lot of putty. The 1000 is a real thinn primer that almost needs no sanding, but you should do it anyway.

I hope it can help you

Just in case you want some inforamtion on thinning this stuff; you can use other synthetic lacquer thinners like Tamiya, modeler's, or Finisher's, I would prerfer to stick like with other brands, to the original brand in this case GSI Creos or Gunze Sangyo, they are the same thing(gunze-GSI). The big bottle T-104 or T-108 which includes retarder to let the paint stay more time wet avoiding a little bit the orange peel effect.

About the compounds from tamiya, yes they are great, actually, this is what I'm been using, just the Fine, although I will be experinmenting with the Finisher's compound combo. The wax from Tamiya, if it's not the best, it's among the best.

Thank you Mr. Porsnatic,

All this info will be very usefull for begginers modelers like me who want to try this stuff, so I thank you for sharing your experience and for your time and patience to type it :thumbsup:.

Have a nice day!
:wave:

-D.