I am trying to change the water pump on my Park Avenue. I have one bolt (at the front bottom) that will not come out because the idler pulley is in the way. The bolt for the pulley can not be removed because the motor mount is in the way. So i removed the 2 nuts that hold the mount onto the bracket and tried to lower the motor and drop the mount out of the bottom of the bracket. The motor will not go low enough for the studs to clear the bracket. I then removed all the bolts and nuts that hold the bracket onto the body and tried to remove the whole assembly but i can't get the whole thing out because it just hits the pulleys. What am i missing. I can't afford to take it to the shop cus my lower unit just went out on my boat:banghead: I am also going to replace the 2 bypass elbows cus i really could not tell where the leak was coming from but i am past the point of no return so i must figure this out. All i can do now is just stare at it and hope the water pump falls off. Any help is greatly appreciated.

You did not mention if you have an Ultra (VIN 1-L67) or base (Vin-K). The procedure is quite different between the two.

Edit: You have a PM with the procedure for both engines.

It is an Ultra. Going out to try some more. Thanks.

I think i am giving up and pulling this to the shop. I cannot get the motor mount out. I was so close. With the mount out, i would have access to the idler pulley and that would be it, but i can't get it out. Thanks for the help.

I got it. Ended up sneaking an allen wrench in between the motor mount and the idler pulley to get the torx bolt out of the pulley. Say what you want, but that darn motor mount assembly will not come out as the manual says. Anyways, i am going to to replace both belts, both elbows, and i broke a vacuum T fitting so i will have to look for one of them. I also syphoned the SC oil and am going to refill it. Is there anything else i should do while i have it apart, maybe some maintenance that normally gets overlooked. And does anyone know the size or part # for the 99 SC Belt ( preferably Gatorback). Also, where is the fuel filter located? I noticed my plugs were a little white when i changed them.

Here is my list for the parts store so far

SC Belt
2 Elbows
T fitting for Vacuum Line
Supercharger Oil
PCV Valve
Air Filter
Fuel Filter

I would replace both belts, the Gatorback SC belt is Part Number: 4060725 & the accessory drive belt is Part Number: 4060922. You defiantly want to replace pulley #9 (3-1/2 in smooth) and if it were me, I would replace all idler & tensioner pulley's, cheap insurance against failure. The fuel filter is located under the vehicle, driver side, below seating area, front of fuel tank, mounted on chassis in fuel line. O'Reilly carries the Wix brand, which is the best filter. :grinyes:

Use only GM SC oil Part # 12345982 available at most dealers. You will need two 4-oz bottles + some if you do a complete refill, so buy three bottles. Fill to the bottom of the fill plug while car is sitting on level ground.


http://img372.imageshack.us/img372/8757/pulleyspd1.jpg

Thanks HOTZ.

You are welcome. BTW, remember to put the belts in position before installing the spacer behind the lower mount bracket. Belt routing diagram should be in your owners manual. Good luck & let us know how it turns out!

HotZ28, I was looking at the diagram of the pulleys and my motor has a steel pulley for #3 under the alternator. Should i replace that with with part #89007 and is that going to matter not being steel?

It does not matter, either one will work. The bearings are the same in both and they are what fail, not the pulley. BTW, usually a plastic pulley tends to be quieter.

The bearings are the same in both and they are what fail, not the pulley. BTW, usually a plastic pulley tends to be quieter.
I had two plastic pulleys break off about a year ago, and no lights came on (not even for the alternator), so I was lucky to have heard the noise and pulled over to check it out. The outside of the pullies were each seperated from their respective center/axle (which was still attached, but looked more like it would be for attaching a chain to). It might have been due to the fact that the bearings failed, but couldn't steel pulleys have at least continued to support the belt (albeit with a lot of noise and wear) instead of just snapping?

I had two plastic pulleys break off about a year ago, and no lights came on (not even for the alternator), so I was lucky to have heard the noise and pulled over to check it out. The outside of the pullies were each seperated from their respective center/axle (which was still attached, but looked more like it would be for attaching a chain to). It might have been due to the fact that the bearings failed, but couldn't steel pulleys have at least continued to support the belt (albeit with a lot of noise and wear) instead of just snapping?
Usually when a bearing fails, the inside balls begin to seize, either to the inner race, or outer race. When this happens, the race (inner or outer) will try to turn with the frozen balls as a result. When one or both of the races seize, destruction is eminent. To answer your question; NO, once the bearing explodes the metal pulley will not provide enough support to keep the belt in place. It may make more noise, but could also cause more damage. The key to prevent this from happening is routine preventative maintenance. I changed all my pulleys @ 100K; just so I don’t have to experience this kind of failure. :iceslolan