2000 Olds Silhouette Fuel Pump Replacement

I have a 2000 Olds Silh. that I think needs a new fuel pump. This is third pump and has always been a bit loud. Now I can hear the pump whine dip and see my rpms dip as well. This morning is died in the parking lot as I was slowing down to turn. 1st time this has happened. Started back up fine though. You can also hear the pump whine change when anything else needs elec like door locks. The pump whine has flucuated a bit recently just when idling but not stalled although rpms have dipped a bit.

Are these pumps possible for a do-it-yourselfer? The first was done in a garage and when it died around a year later, they replaced. Would I have to drop the tank or is there access through the floor?

Does this sound like a pump finally going bad or should I check something else first. It seems pumps tend to go all at once. These pumps are expensive as well (~$300) so other possibilities would be great.

Thanks in advance,

Scott

I had a 2000 Silo and had to replace the fuel level sending unit (which died a year later).

As it is part of the fuel pump the tank had to be dropped to change.

Be very careful if you do this yourself. Think safety first.

If attempting to lower and remove the tank in a paved home driveway, ensure all safety procedures are met and make certain you will be able to catch any and all spilled gas as it will eat the asphalt, guaranteed.

However, the fault MAY not be with the pump (although it's possible) itself but there may be a faulty fuel relay acting up or perhaps a bad ground connection on top of the tank.

It's hard to reach the top of the tank though. So it still has to be lowered.

I see its been a couple of weeks, but another possibility is the plug for the fuel pump wiring. They tend to get corroded. It is underneath the van below the driver's seat. If it is barely getting enough power, then when the RPMs drop (alternator turning slower) or there is another power draw the slight drop in voltage would affect it much more that it should. Let us know what you find out. Dustin

I see its been a couple of weeks, but another possibility is the plug for the fuel pump wiring. They tend to get corroded. It is underneath the van below the driver's seat. If it is barely getting enough power, then when the RPMs drop (alternator turning slower) or there is another power draw the slight drop in voltage would affect it much more that it should. Let us know what you find out. Dustin

I agree. There is no ground on top the tank--its plastic. The connector is the place to start looking as they all go bad sooner or later and WILL shut down your van. As Dustin said, if its on the verge of failure, power fluctuations will really have an impact on that pump.

Open your connector and look the pins over before you pull the tank. Btw, its not hard or dangerous at all to drop the tank and slide it out from under the van before you open it. You won't spill a drop--its designed that way.

Thanks for the advise. It ran ok for a couple of weeks after that. And then last week I drove home from work and went to head out again after 20min and it wouldn't start. Well it would start but sputtered and bucked and died. Then it would turnover but not start and then it might start but sputter and buck when you gave it gas. Next day started fine but the pump seemed a bit louder and noise you get at the pump when it presurizes sounded a bit different. Ran fine for a week and then last night on way home it starts sputtering and won't accellerate but does not not die. I limped the rest of the way home. It would accellerate if you pressed the gas very slowly. Turned it off at home and wouldn't start back up. Didn't get chance to try today yet.

Will check out connector when I get home, meant to earlier. Is it the only connector in the area? Will it be easy to spot?

Do pumps die a slow death, everyone I know who has had a pump go, including me, has the pump go suddenly?

Scott

I have had many fuel pumps die over years and none have acted the way you describe. It might be the pump buts its quicker to check the connector.

There are two connectors close by, this one is right where your feet go if you sit behind the driver. Its the larger of the two in the area and move forward than the 2nd connector.

It carries wires from the fuel pump, the gas gauge, the tank pressure sender and the EVAP cannister.

You'll know if its the problem as soon as you look at the pins.

Checked connector last night. I assume this is the one underneath the car. Two together, opened the bigger one. Looked good as new. Pulled carpet up to check other side and there is a plate that would have to be pried off so I left it alone. The plate and area around it looked fine. I am going to get a pressure gauge next. Looking at the port for checking fuel pressure, there is very little room between the threaded end and a tube and hose next to it. Is clearance an issue getting a guage on? I can hear the pump prime for a couple seconds when the key is turned to on but van won't start. Pressed the pin on the fuel port and get a little pfft... not sure if it is enough for the amount of pressure that should be generated. Could the pump prime but still be bad (not generate enough pressure). Looking at the tank, it doesn't look like that bad of a job. Can I check the pressure elsewhere say at the filter?

Scott

It helps if you have a right angle style gauge connector such as those on AC gauge sets. The pressure should be 41-47 lbs when the pump is running. When the pump is off, the pressure should hold at least 10 minutes or, not drop by more than 5psi in 10 minutes according to the book.

You looked at the right connector in the floor. Sounds like yours is good and clean. On three of my vans the pins were so bad I couldn't reconnect the plug. I first tried to replace the pins in the connector but the wires were all corroded up and I ended up bypassing several feet of the harness with new cables. I bypassed the connector on two of the vans.

Replaced pump. Fixed that problem.

Scott

Happy to hear it.

Did the strainer look clogged up? I didn't think of it before, but if it act up again, then shake the van back and forth with the van off to get the gas sloshing around. If it temporarily fixes it then there is probably sediment in your gas tank that is clogging the strainer. That would also work the pump harder and shorten its life.

Hopefully this doesn't need to be helpful.

Dustin

Replaced pump. Fixed that problem.

Scott

Are you all finding the aftermarket pumps from the discount parts stores (e.g. Carter) don't last but about a year so one is better off getting a factory replacement?

That is what I learned after going through several fuel pumps with my Chrysler minivan.

you very much seem like you know a lot of what your talking about. the pump is out on my 2000. i seen a video on changing out just the pump not the whole assembly. (pump$20 assembly $159) i want to make sure this can be done safely, using insulated butt ends crimped to wire in the new pump?