Register and join the largest automotive community online!
Please Register or Login to access: DriverSide DriverSide Home | Service & Repair | Car Prices | Parts & Accessories | Reviews & Advice | My Garage

Power steering rack failure ... 99 3.8l


Google  
Web AF

12Ounce
04-27-2009, 11:51 AM
1999 Windstar 3.8 SEL. 256k miles.

Some background: As some of you know, I rebuilt my engine and replaced tranny Jan 2008 when vehicle had 214k miles on it. At the time, because the tie rod inner joints were worn, I chose to replace the rack with a Ford reman unit. It was then easy because the sub-frame was already lowered. During the 9500 mile tour shortly thereafter, I noticed a increasing difficulty of steering along hairpin mountain roads. I wrongly assumed it was my original pump that was failing on me. I bought a new pump but haven't yet replaced it.

Fast forward to April 2009. The difficult steering has suddenly become very difficult ... and "one sided" ... more difficult to steer left than right, and occassionally really hanging up, then breaking loose with noise ... very unsafe! I first check all steering joints for movement .. no problems detected. I then replaced the upper strut bearing blocks ... no improvement. That only leaves the (Ford replacement) steering rack (which now has 42k miles and over 1 years service on it) as a possible problem maker. The Ford warranty was 12k miles and 90 days. Duh!

BTW, the "fluid side" of the rack obviously is not the problem. The fluid is still fairly clean ... as clean as power steering fluid can be ... no metal or other contaminants in fluid. Instead, the problem is obviously in the gearing ... the very rack and gear itself.
Since the local AutoZone had a replacement rack and with a "lifetime warranty" ... I decided to give it a try.

Had to drop the rear of subframe a couple of inches for work room. Used air compressor to blow out old fluid from entire network. Still have not replaced pump or belt. After a few hundred miles, the AutoZone unit seems to be OK.

glennet404
04-27-2009, 03:51 PM
12Ounce-

Thanks for the info - I'm getting ready to replace the steering rack in my '99 - and was wondering where to get it. Question answered !!

Good Luck
Glenn

Freakzilla69
04-27-2009, 04:57 PM
I've got a weird problem with my rack & pinion, but it's not a big deal to me...

When I bought it it was much worse, I used to have a loose spot at the top of the wheel (going straight). I asked a mechanic to replace it but he said their were conical bolts on backwards and that was all the play.

Now it just gets stuck at the top, it feels like a notch almost. It takes very little force to overcome and I don't think it's dangerous. Maybe a tooth is broken on the R&P?

12Ounce
04-27-2009, 06:25 PM
I've got a weird problem with my rack & pinion, ........a loose spot at the top of the wheel (going straight). .......I asked a mechanic to replace it but he said .... were conical bolts on backwards and that was all the play.

Now it just gets stuck at the top, it feels like a notch almost. It takes very little force to overcome and I don't think it's dangerous. Maybe a tooth is broken on the R&P?


If you feel anything abnormal about the rack and pinion ...its time to replace it!! What if someday you, or some other driver, cannot force the steering to go around a slight curve ... or miss a kid on a bike ... or ???

About the mounting bolts, the mechanic is right ... there is something a bit unusual about them and I forgot to mention this earlier: Steering racks are normally mounted, on other cars, in soft rubber isolator bushings. NOT SO on the Windstar. The rack is "hard bolted" to the subframe ... and the subframe, in turn, is soft mounted to the vehicle frame. The rack mounting bolts that are used are "splined" ... once they are pushed/pulled/pounded into the body of the rack, they ain't gonna turn by twisting on the hex head! You can give up on trying!

The nuts have to be removed from the bottom of the sub-frame. (To do this the anti-sway bar has to be loosen and lifted ... for work space ... not a big deal!) I found myself grinding a little tool clearance from a catalytic converter heat shield ... you may be able to work around this ... 1/2" drive universal joints are going to be very handy. The rack can then be removed with the mounting bolts remaining in place. As we already said, the sub-frame has to be lowered. Once on the work bench, the bolts can be removed from the steering rack.

wiswind
04-27-2009, 08:40 PM
I would also add a magnefine filter inline with the power steering fluid "cooler" that is in front of the radiator.....on the non-towing package windstar it will be a metal pipe that loops out in front of the radiator below the bumper.
The correct size will be 3/8".
This will filter out any "nasty" particles that can get into the fluid....and damage the pump/etc.

This is a link to a picture of the filter installed on my '96 windstar.
This is a view from the bottom.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1334942382011220610PicgSc

Add your comment to this topic!


Google  
Web AF