97 Intrepid starting problems

I have a 97 intrepid, that a little over a year ago, I had new head gaskets, new fuel pump, filter and rail put in. About 6 months ago, it started to over heat a little. When I put anti freeze in it, no problem. it only had this problem 2 times where it over heated.
The second time, I filled it up, let it cool down and turned around to go home. I made it about 200 feet when it suddenly died. I couldn't get it started again.
Had it towed home, let it sit for a week(I was a bit upset!) and tried to start it. It fired one time, and then nothing. But each time I tried to start it, it would fire once then nothing....

Any one have any tips or ideas? I have no idea! Someone told me that the engine blew, another person said maybe timing chain....

Which engine??

How many miles on engine??

Have you checked for any codes by doing the key dance??

Have you checked for spark??

What is fuel pressure at??

Have you tryed spraying a touch of either into throttle body to see if it will run then??

97's are known for bad ignition switches.

I have the 3.5 liter engine. I have not done the key dance(what a funny name!), but will do that tomorrow, hopefully. I do have spark, which is what makes this so weird for me. I have quite a bit of car knowledge, but this one stumps me!
The car has about 160,000 miles on it. The head gaskets and such were all replaced less than 6000 miles ago.
I checked the fuel pressure only by pressing the relief valve. I got plenty of fuel.

Are there any other light on in the instrument panel??

Open your oil filler cap and have someone crank the engine over and watch to see if the valves are opening and closing (Possible broken timing belt)

Did you install a new timing belt when head gaskets were done?

Do a compression test.

Test the coil pack.

Are the injectors operating satisfactorly? LIsten to them with a sthoscope or screwdriver for clicking on and off.

Do a search using ignition switch to see what the symptoms of a bad igntion switch are, the 97's are known for a igntion switch failure problem.

The ABS light and traction control light have been on since I bought the car. They never go out.

The code i receive is 12-55. That just tells me the battery has been disconnected in the last 50 ignition key-ons, if correct. This is the only code that I recieve.

Now when I try to start it, the starter engages, and the engine will turn over a couple times, then not at all.

The ABS light and traction control light have been on since I bought the car. They never go out.

The code i receive is 12-55. That just tells me the battery has been disconnected in the last 50 ignition key-ons, if correct. This is the only code that I recieve.

Now when I try to start it, the starter engages, and the engine will turn over a couple times, then not at all.


Hi...you're right about the ignition key codes... 12 means the battery has been disconnected in the past 50 key cycles...and 55 is the "End of Codes" code.

The reason your ABS and traction control warning lights are staying on is there is a problem with the ABS system. If there werent any, the lights would just go out a couple seconds after starting. Each time you turn on the ignition key, the ABS system does a self-check.

Two things happen here.

1. The controller stores a diagnostic code (which isnt stored in the key dance codes...). You have to go to Autozone or Advance Auto to use a DRB II Scanner to get the answer.

2. When the lights are on, the ABS system is just disabled is all and would not work if needed...it will stay disabled until it is fixed, but the lights are annoying! You would however, still have regular braking, but not the anti-skid stuff.

There are a few things you can check before you have to take it in either to the dealer (expensive) or to a brake repair shop.

a) Make sure the brake calipers are in good shape.

b) Check the electrical connector at the controller (it may have been disconnected).

c) Check the fuses!

d) Foll wiring harness to the speed sensors and brake light switch. Make sure wires and connections are secure and not damaged.

If the above all seem ok...you will be making a trip to a repair shop.

Hope this helps! Would be nice if it was just a fuse....wouldnt it? :wink:

I have a 97 intrepid, that a little over a year ago, I had new head gaskets, new fuel pump, filter and rail put in. About 6 months ago, it started to over heat a little. When I put anti freeze in it, no problem. it only had this problem 2 times where it over heated.
The second time, I filled it up, let it cool down and turned around to go home. I made it about 200 feet when it suddenly died. I couldn't get it started again.
Had it towed home, let it sit for a week(I was a bit upset!) and tried to start it. It fired one time, and then nothing. But each time I tried to start it, it would fire once then nothing....

Any one have any tips or ideas? I have no idea! Someone told me that the engine blew, another person said maybe timing chain....

I basically had a similar situation... I bought my 97 Intrepid ES 3.5L a couple months ago and had a lope like I had a racing cam in it sitting at a red light. But, soon as I touched the gas...smoothed right out! THAT LOPING was a definite indicator of a leaking head gasket and so was a very small amount of steam coming out of the tail pipe...even when the outside temperature was still in the 70's and 80's! I had no bad plugs or wires, but possibly a couple vacuum leaks.

It overheated and just died before I got off the exit I was on from the interstate. One thing I learned from this experience was this. This car has a AIR BLEEDER VALVE right on the water outlet right in front and on top of the engine where the hose connects coming from the radiator. When you overheat and you fill up your radiator...you have to make sure to OPEN that valve and you will hear a hiss letting the AIR OUT of the engine...or the engine will only be about 1/2 full of antifreeze! If refilled (you think) and driven...it will just overheat again! Mine had broken off even with the housing and didnt know that was even there! I had to refill it, drove it (not far) got hot again, let it cool...over and over again for about 5 miles...it took me over 4 hours to get that far! Yes, my head gasket blew and I was pumping copius amounts of steam out the tail pipe when it was running! I rebuilt the top half of the engine. Found the water pump bearings were shot and had a leaky head gasket to start with! I also found there were vacuum leaks before I rebuilt. All good now! Runs like a top...smooth at idle and no hesitation with plenty of PEP!!!

As far as "WHY" your car wont start now... I would do the ignition key test...(turn it on 3 times in a row without starting the car...) and see if you have any codes that pop up. You count the amount of times and sequence the Check Engine Light come on...write them down. You can get codes online or go to a auto parts store and look for a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual for your year and model of car. I have a Haynes and it is on pages 6-6 and 6-7. That may give you a starting place...if nothing else.

I would check this as well... Once I finished my engine and the first cranking of the motor to see if this thing would run...all it did was turn over, nice and smooth...no pops nothing. Definitely had spark! When I took off the exhaust manifolds, I saw a connector and didnt want to break it because it was so close... down by the end of exhaust manifold where it connects to the exhaust pipe flange on the passenger side, is a plug for that connector on the side of the transmission. THAT is your crank position sensor! I did not have it connected and as soon as I plugged it in...started right up!

Now...one thing I would try as well is get a long breaker bar with a socket to fit your harmonic balancer bolt...take your spark plugs out...and have someone watch inside your valve cover where the oil cap is... Have someone turn the crankshaft clockwise with a long breaker bar and if the cams are connected with the timing belt intact...you will see the rockers going up and down...if no rocker movement...then the timing belt may be broken! Easiest way I know to check without dismantling the whole front of the engine first! Firing order is 1,2,3,4,5,6. Bank One is passenger side with Cyls 1,3,5 and Bank 2 Drivers side with cyls 2,4,6. Pretty easy to get re-timed though...set everything at Top Dead Center... and the marks are already on the cam housings and gears! Getting the crank in TDC is the hard part...then put on timing belt if that was the problem!

Just a thought and an observation from my experience just having rebuilt my engine! I also had to buy another water outlet fitting WITH the air bleeder valve in it...$16 at Autozone.

Hope this helps!