91 DX

I changed the passenger halfshaft a few months ago. Today, while changing the oil, I noticed it appears to have a slight seal leak on that side.

THAT brings up the changing & filling issue. The Fine Manual mumbles about the drain plug, the level-test plug, and the fill plug. I think the fill and level plugs are the same thing, despite their wording. True?

Secondly; what do folks use for oil? TFM says SAE 10-30/10-40; but I'd think good hypoid gear lube would offer more protection. Does anyone use such?

Long term; how hard is it to replace the seal on the driveshaft socket?

ok, your fill plug is on top of your tranny, right underneath the starter, you have to remove the starter to get at it. it is not the same as the level plug although some people use the level plug as a fill plug, nothing wrong with that, its just easier for me to remove the starter and use the right plug. the one on the side of the tranny that you can fit the ratchet drive straight into is the level plug, and the small plug on the side at the very bottom is the drain plug. hope this helps. also the best thing that i have found to run in honda trannies, oddly enough, is a gm product, i ran it in my 89 si tranny, and now i run it in my y1, it is called gm syncromesh and you can get it at any gm dealership, there are 2 kinds, the kind you want is called gm syncromesh "friction modified", it is a little costly but it works great. but when I ran my dx tranny I just ran non detergent motor oil, forget what weight it was, but i prefer the piece of mind i get from the syncromesh. hope this helps.

right underneath the starter, you have to remove the starter to get at it.

Ahh... thanks...

On my CRX, the level plug is a hex; you use a box wrench. The drain plug is 3/8" female; you use a breaker or ratchet handle.

I'll look at the GM oil.

honda MTF, GM synchromesh w/ or without friction modified, redline mtl or mt-90, amsoil, pennzoil syncromesh at autozone, or 10w-30, or just 30 weight - pick your poison

yea i got mixed up on which one was the hex and which used the ratchet dr, like i say it was always just easier for me to pull the starter, instead of trying to use the level plug, but there is nothing wrong with doing that, also if you want to get technical about stuff you can also pull the vss from the tranny and fill it from there, i figured that one out during my b16a swap, in which i removed the starter and there was no fill hole, yea that threw me for a loop for a second. readallen is correct, i just prefer the gm syncromesh, it has always done well for me.

thanks big tex84, but Im probably wrong - this is when tony, christ, frodo, blu civic, and kris see which one of them will be the first to jump in and correct us.
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/7251/racingwht.gif (http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=racingwht.gif)

honda MTF, GM synchromesh w/ or without friction modified, redline mtl or mt-90, amsoil, pennzoil syncromesh at autozone, or 10w-30, or just 30 weight - pick your poison

FWIW: I found the Pennzoil (http://www.stealth316.com/2-pennzoil-synchromesh.htm) at Advance Auto but not Autozone. That's OK with me as AA [around here, previously known as "Trash Auto"...] is near the worksite...

WOO back from the dead I am!

Haha, but your correct 10w-30, pennzoil synchromesh, GM synchromesh or Honda MTF will all do fine. I do believe MT-90 is for a different weight and is used as a popular alternative in alot of mazdas.

I used synchromesh on a dieing b series tranny that had rapidly developed a 3rd gear grind and it completely eliminated it for another year until I sold the car, grind free. Best 17 bucks I ever spent on the drivetrain.

you can also pull the vss from the tranny and fill it from there

Looking today; I see a sensor of some kind on top of the case, and an adjacent vent hose that runs down over the front.

I may try pulling that sensor out.

If you use the VSS, be sure to remove the "level" plug so you know when to stop filling it.