ok.. i have done a search on here to no avail. Everytime I find a post with my exact problems.. it just stops with no final answer. So I decided to post this question to get my answer.

facts: wife was coming home from work tuesday and as she got on freeway, truck ( vortec v6) just lost all power, no bucking or stumbling just cut off. She tried to restart but all it would do was crank. if I let it sit over night it will fire right up and run for 2 seconds then die out.

I tried starting fluid, would start for 2 -3 seconds and slowly die out again.

recent history: replaced fuel pump about 6 months ago, fuel filter 2 months ago, cfi unit 2 months ago ( during snow storm lol) spark plugs yesterday, cap and rotor 2 months ago.

Fuel pressure (KOEO) 60 psi after about 3-5 minutes it drops to 50 psi and steadly drops at that same pace till pressure is 0. pulled line in front of fuel filter and turned key on, good strong steady stream from pump and filter. No signs of gas leaking, or smells of gas. Holding pedal down ( flooded condition) does nothing. Once started pumping footfeet does nothing.

I have heard lots of possibles; pcm, ecm, tps, cps, other cps. I also hooked up my spark tester to the sparkplug wire and plug (inline kind) nice bright orange glow.

any ideas? I am at my wits end... I told wife if I could I'd blow the damn thing up... vortec v6 is the biggest piece of crap I have ever worked on. Sorry if I offened the vortec elite, just MHO.

thanks for your help,
Bigdaddygb

Problem isn't in crank sensor you are right if you are getting spark and also the fact that it will run for a bit by using starter fluid, I know you recently replaced your fuel pump, but open your gas cap and listen while you get your wife to turn the key on, you should hear it come on for a few seconds, if you do not it doesn't necessarily mean that the pump is bad it could be a problem in the wiring somewhere getting power to it, but do that and get back to us and we will go from there.

Oops my bad, I need to start reading the whole threads before I start posting. You need to check that you are getting power to your injectors, the fact that you are able to start it after it sits over night is probably where some of the gas seeps through over night and leaves enough to ignite, no problem with your pump, sry for not paying attention.

You should have 12 volts to one of the wires going to each injector with the key in on position. The other wire should get a ground pulses from the pcm. You could have a blown fuse somewhere in the fuse panel or it could be a bad sensor not sending the signal to the pcm so it can send the ground pulses to your injectors. I think the cam sensor is the one used for fuel injection.

I am leaning more towards a fuse being blown. Check with a test light and put the clip on a ground somewhere and probe the wires at each injector with the key in on position, one of them on each injector should make it light up.

ok. i have one injector it's under the manifold. I has that sucky CPI unit with one injector and 6 spider injector tubes. i recently replaced it about 2 months ago. I will check fuses in a few it raining now and wil stop later today.

Also from your first post, I hear the fuel pump everytime i turn on the key. I feel as thoug it may be a CPI problem because if I turn key on and off a few times ( primeing several times in a row..) it almost wants to start up..

checked fuses, they are fine, even swapped the two fuses that are in glove box location. no change. my next step is a scanner. But it will have to wait till payday.

checked fuses, they are fine, even swapped the two fuses that are in glove box location. no change. my next step is a scanner. But it will have to wait till payday.

Do you have a test light or multimeter, if so did you test to see that one of the wires going to your injector has 12 votls + with the key in the on position, sometimes a problem could be after the fuse like maybe a loose connection behind the fuse box or something?

Adding starting fluid makes it run, and fuel pressure dropping to zero: those are both classic symptoms of a fuel delivery problem. How long after the pump shuts off before pressure drops to zero? If fuel pressure drops to zero, there is a leak somewhere. If you don't smell fuel or see a leak, most likely the check valve in the fuel pump is not operating properly, or the flex line at the pump is leaking in the tank. What brand fuel pump did you install?

Fuel pressure (KOEO) 60 psi after about 3-5 minutes it drops to 50 psi and steadly drops at that same pace till pressure is 0.


By my calculations going from what he just gave there it would be anywhere from 18 minutes to 30 minutes.

I agree with Old Master on needing to get the pump checked. However that shouldn't be causing you not to get it started. If you have plenty of pressure when you first turn it on and it does hold for a little bit, you should be able to get it started. Like I said you need to make sure you are getting power to your injector. And if so you need to make sure that the injector is spraying.

my next step is a scanner. But it will have to wait till payday.

I already replied to this, but I'm replying again. Reading this thread I never seen any mention of a check engine or service engine soon light on which probably means you do not have a code stored in the ecm for anything. A scan tool is not your next step, I would get a noid light and hook up to your injector, well, I would actually use a test light or multimeter like I said and speaking of that you never even came back and said whether or not you have done that. A scan tool will not tell you everything that is wrong with a vehicle you. You would pay less money to get a haynes manual and look up how to pull codes yourself for your vehicle without a scanner, and also have a lot more helpful troubleshooting advice to offer as well. Either way you don't need to check the computer for the problem you are having.

For checking injectors, use a noid light or digital multimeter, a test light will damage the injector driver in ECM.

For checking injectors, use a noid light or digital multimeter, a test light will damage the injector driver in ECM.


I should have better clarified what I was saying, I was just talking about checking the side of the wire that is supposed to have 12 volts on it with the key in the on position with the alligator clip to a ground somewhere within the engine compartment, if you have a diagram that shows which one and know which color wire it is you will not damage anything checking that one with the test light. However if you are checking for your injector pulses from the ECM which is the other wire he is probably right you should use a digital multimeter for that, you would take one lead from the meter and put on a battery positive somewhere and the other to that wire. I'm assuming that what happens there if you use a light instead of the meter to check for the ECM pulse is the injector and the light together may draw too much current than the circuit in the ECM can handle or something maybe Old Master can get back on that.

Exactly correct! When checking for ground with a test light, the alligator clip is connected to battery positive. When the ECM sends a ground pulse to the injector, B+ voltage will be sent directly to the injector driver through the test light filament and destroy the injector driver.

ok. I have a haynes manual and it's not much help for my problem. I have checked the coil, and have a multimeter I use for testing. I also use a test light, and an inline spark plug tester. In order for me to check the fuel injector I will have to pull off the whole intake as the injector is under the intake. As for the leak down of fuel pressure, yeah about 30 minutes is right for the leak down to zero. But from whay I know you only need enough pressure for the start and then pressure will drop off anyways once started.

Also for check engine light, wife said all lights came on when it died out and she told me last night that the check engine light had been coming on and off for the last 2 weeks. Gotta love women..... grrrr.. anyways... i checked the fuse box in glove box and have a single red wire not connected to anything in there... it goes across towards dash but not sure what too.. I plan to see if it has voltage and see if I can see behind the fuse panel to see if it broke of somewhere. It would be a clean break though as it is right down to the top of the plastic casing on the wire.

In order for me to check the fuel injector I will have to pull off the whole intake as the injector is under the intake.

I'd have to see a picture to see what you are talking about, I've never seen one that you can't get to like that(where you would have to pull an intake). Nothing else the connector part has to be somewhere where you can get to to check for voltages at least.

95 was a changeover year, could have had a couple of different systems, but if your injector wires are under the plenum, you have CMFI with OBDI.

GM does not publish any "engine running" fuel pressure specs. All tests are done with the engine off and cold. Key on, engine off, fuel pump running, pressure must be 58psi to 64psi and must remain above 53psi for 3 to 5 minutes. Your initial pressure is ok but the leakdown is excessive. To determine whether the leak is in the plenum or in the fuel tank requires the temporary, or permanant, installation of a shut off valve in the fuel pressure line between the pump and the test port. The valve isolates the pump from the system immediately after it pressureizes the system. If pressure still leaks down, the problem is in the plenum. If pressure holds, the leak is in the fuel tank.

I respect old master he knows a lot but sometimes I don't always agree with everybody, I know he is going to keep pointing you to your fuel pump and I'm going to keep pointing you to your injector because I don't see that causing you a problem getting it started if you have that pressure there at least at start up. Either way one of us is wrong and it may even be something completely different but would someone else comment to help add to old masters case if he is more likely to be right or my case if I'm more likely to be right or add something new.

according to the test scanner site, it has the obdII, 16pin connector under the dash and the cpu is over the coolant retrun tank. as for the injector, it has one connection i will check this week when it warms up, i am pulling plenum and will check voltages and make sure it is connected, as for red wire in glove box, i am checking that tonight for voltrage, and will check with mirror for lost connection. maybe that is it? hopefully.....something easy!!!...

16 pin connector under the dash, ECM on the coolant recovery tank, and the injector inside the plenum is a CMFI system and it's a mix of OBDI and OBDII, not really either one. An OBDI scan tool will not connect to it, and some OBDII scan tools will not be able to communicate with the ECM. So don't get too excited if Auto Zone or Advance Auto can't read your DTC's. Whatever the problem turns out to be, the excessive leakdown is a problem and needs to be repaired ;) Not gonna get into a pissin' match, the more heads diagnosing on this, the better.

i dont think anyone was getting into a pissing match, just pointing out thier Honost Opinon. I can see both sides and figure your both on to the hot spots of the problem. I have heard that if a line inside the plenum leaks and floods the banks of the intank it will cause the engine to stall like this. Maybe I have a leak under the plenum. Like I said I will check that this week when it gets a little warmer.
Thanks for all your help so far. I will post by next friday what I had found.

When you have the plenum removed, (keep all trouble lights away from vehicle), you can turn the ignition to the run position and watch for leaks. The fuel pressure regulator is on the passenger side, and the pressure line and return line, sometimes referred to as "nut kit", are on the driver side.

i will I will only check it with a multimeter for the correct voltage, and leaks. I checked it for leaks when I first installed it and may need to do it again just to eliminate a possible suspect.

Exactly correct! When checking for ground with a test light, the alligator clip is connected to battery positive. When the ECM sends a ground pulse to the injector, B+ voltage will be sent directly to the injector driver through the test light filament and destroy the injector driver.

I go to respectfully disagree that +B voltage from a test light to the injector drivers will damage the injector drivers. The injector drivers operate at 12V and even alternator voltage, so this is a normal voltage for them. Also applying +B with a test light to the injector drivers is a factory recommend test procedure.

It's not that easy to damage the ECM by applying battery voltage to even 5 V reference circuits. The ECM is circuit overload protected. Protection for shorts to system voltage is built into the ECM design and normally even shorts to system voltage won't burn out the ECM. I'm not saying ECM's can't be shorted and I wouldn't recommend applying 12V to just any circuit to the ECM, but to the injector drivers it's perfectly fine.

I go to respectfully disagree that +B voltage from a test light to the injector drivers will damage the injector drivers. The injector drivers operate at 12V and even alternator voltage, so this is a normal voltage for them. Also applying +B with a test light to the injector drivers is a factory recommend test procedure.

It's not that easy to damage the ECM by applying battery voltage to even 5 V reference circuits. The ECM is circuit overload protected. Protection for shorts to system voltage is built into the ECM design and normally even shorts to system voltage won't burn out the ECM. I'm not saying ECM's can't be shorted and I wouldn't recommend applying 12V to just any circuit to the ECM, but to the injector drivers it's perfectly fine.


I replied to that as well and also infact have used a test light with never a problem. But however I'm not going to say that he is wrong there may be some vehicles that this will damage the injector drivers or that he has personally from experience seen this happen. Also too I think I've heard that somewhere else before as well so I'm sure he isn't just making the stuff up off the top of his head. But I also do have to wonder though wouldn't a noid light do the same thing, or does it have a much higher resistance than a test light bulb?

I'm not saying old_master is wrong really, maybe too cautious in regard to testing the injector drivers. You can tell he is pretty knowledgable and is right about a lot of things. No one is always right. Heck, I mix things up sometimes too.


But I also do have to wonder though wouldn't a noid light do the same thing, or does it have a much higher resistance than a test light bulb?


See, that's the thing. When you apply a test light to the injector grounds in the ECM it's really no different to the computer than a noid light really. Like you pointed out, a test light has a bulb in it and is not a direct wire from the battery. Also injectors can short but that doesn't very often burn out the injector drivers either.

One thing you shouldn't do is apply battery votage directly to an injector though as that could over load the windings since the computer pulses them on and off quickly.

One other thing that should be pointed out is if you are checking for power supplied to the injector positive side, often times the injectors are powered through the fuel pump relay. So you won't see power to the injectors unless the engine is cranking and the ECM is seeing a crank signal (well not for longer than about 2 seconds after you turn the key to RUN anyway lol). It's like how the fuel pump is only powered on by the ECM for a few seconds if no engine cranking signal is received.

I will second OldMaster's diagnosis. You need to find the leak first. 50psi is not enough to open the poppets and the rapid leakdown means you are getting less that that pressure at the poppets. you can temporarily pinch off the return line to the fuel tank and see if the pressure holds. Also, you should at the very least pull the fuel filter connector and dead head the pressure guage at the filter (only run the pump for a few seconds to prevent damage to it). That will tell you the max pressure of the pump and whether it bleeds down (max pressure should be around 70-85psi). If it bleeds down when you have the pressure guage connected at the filter, then the problem is a faulty check valve on the pump or a leaky flex hose at the pump. I have seen many leaky flex hoses at the pump on the '95 Blazers and they will not start with even slightly low pressure (under55psi). I wouldn't pull the plenum until you can narrow down the fuel leak.

I clamped off the fuel line just past the fuel filter. it started at about 62 psi and was at 55 psi after about 20-30 minutes.

Seems to be in the fuel tank. AHHHHHH.. full tank of gas. ohh well i'll of load it into my Jeep cherokee. Will replace the fuel pump and let you know what happens.

Also pulled codes from cpu.. I got P0107, p0122, p0300, and P1442

First 2 are due to low battery, third and forth ones not sure. I mean I know what it said they were but not sure how to treat them. P0300 is probably from trying to run on starting fluid.

Before you just replace the pump, check the flex line that goes from the pump to the module housing for leaks. Sometimes the clamps loosen up or the line will sprout a leak.

ok. will do. also I found that the code 1442 says Manufacturer control aux. emissions control. have any clue what that means??

also for leak down.. after about 1 hour it was down to 28-30 psi.. and about 1:30 later or so it was all gone.

maybe i'm wrong. I clamped off the fuel line after the filter but i don't know what the pressure did in the tank. I only know what it did in the plenum and that was the number i posted earlier.
the leak down was from after the fuel filter. but it was alot slower than when i don't have the line clamped off.
sorry head is swimming today... head cold.

Please at least give me the benefit of the doubt here, I agree you have a leak down problem again, but I am going to stand my ground against the other guy who says that it will cause it not to start. You have good pressure in the fuel rail and it is holding awhile. I'm going to try to explain this the best I can. The fuel injector is nothing more than an electrically controlled valve. If you have pressure in the rail(which you do), when trying to crank the vehicle the valve is going to open to allow fuel to enter. In order to get the vehicle cranked you need air, fuel, and spark. You have enough pressure their for the injector to allow fuel to get by when the valve opens for start-up. You only have one injector so that is the only way of fuel entering the combustion chambers. If you had more than one injector and couldn't get it started I would say more than likely you are missing the battery voltage going to one of the wires to each injector or are missing the ground pulses from the ecm. Seeing how it is only one I would say either the above or a bad injector(valve stuck closed).

It is a simple check please check it.

You did it right. You don't care what the pressure does in the tank. You'd need a gauge between the pump and the shut off point to watch the pressure in the tank. You watched it at the plenum and it held, so that means the leakdown is in the tank.

The P1442 has to do with the EVAP vacuum switch circuit, (canister purge solenoid). The ECM detected a higher than normal voltage, I wouldn't worry too much about that, unless it comes on again after you clear the DTC's.

I really appreciate all the help with this guys.. I am at wits end with this thing.. Had a guy offer me an even trade for a 98 ford taurus 4 door but I decided not to I want to get it running before i decide to do anything with it.

I will drop tank thursday or friday and check hoses and possible get a new pump.
I will keep you posted.

maybe i'm wrong. I clamped off the fuel line after the filter but i don't know what the pressure did in the tank. I only know what it did in the plenum and that was the number i posted earlier.
the leak down was from after the fuel filter. but it was alot slower than when i don't have the line clamped off.
sorry head is swimming today... head cold.


Ok now I think that we are all wrong. I know that you need 60 psi now for your vehicle to crank after researching the cpi spider unit. And until I sorta thought I understood this what you are saying I was going to say well, you have that(60 psi) KOEO so just clamp the line like you did, pressure should definately stay there and try to crank it, I still don't think it was leaking fast enough to make a difference anyway to where it wouldn't crank.

But back to my point, Old Master said you did the test right and that it was in your tank, he thought that you said it held but he can look back again and see that you said it didn't, it was just slower. Which side of the system did you have your gauge hooked to, as far as where you had it clamped off at? You said here that you don't know what the pressure did in the tank, which is telling me that your line was clamped where coming in from the firewall, and that the gauge is b/t there and your injector. And you say that you noticed it took the pressure longer to drop but was still dropping.

That is telling me that your injector is leaking and flooding your engine, and that makes since also why you can restart it in the morning(after it has set overnight and evaporated some) but it floods again right after start because the injector is stuck open letting too much fuel in.

ok. will do. also I found that the code 1442 says Manufacturer control aux. emissions control. have any clue what that means??

also for leak down.. after about 1 hour it was down to 28-30 psi.. and about 1:30 later or so it was all gone.


That could just be though leaking back down from where it's clamped at so I could be wrong with that last thing I said. Either way if he has 60 to 62 pounds like he's said he should be able to crank it, that slow of a leak down shouldn't cause him a problem getting it started. Have you tried cranking it like this, turn the key on, leave it for a few seconds, turn the key back off, then turn it on again, that might boost the pressure up a little more.

Ok now I think that we are all wrong. I know that you need 60 psi now for your vehicle to crank after researching the cpi spider unit. And until I sorta thought I understood this what you are saying I was going to say well, you have that(60 psi) KOEO so just clamp the line like you did, pressure should definately stay there and try to crank it, I still don't think it was leaking fast enough to make a difference anyway to where it wouldn't crank.

But back to my point, Old Master said you did the test right and that it was in your tank, he thought that you said it held but he can look back again and see that you said it didn't, it was just slower. Which side of the system did you have your gauge hooked to, as far as where you had it clamped off at?

You said here that you don't know what the pressure did in the tank, which is telling me that your line was clamped where coming in from the firewall, and that the gauge is b/t there and your injector. And you say that you noticed it took the pressure longer to drop but was still dropping.

That is telling me that your injector is leaking and flooding your engine, and that makes since also why you can restart it in the morning(after it has set overnight and evaporated some) but it floods again right after start because the injector is stuck open letting too much fuel in.

****I clamped it off after the filter.. and gauge was between the filter and the plenum.

sounds possible. Like I said before I am going to pull the plenum just to be sure.. I can pull it easily and not have to put on a new gasket as original one worked 3 times before it broke. I do have a new one on there now since ne injector but can still reuse it. No gasket sealer needed.

That could just be though leaking back down from where it's clamped at so I could be wrong with that last thing I said. Either way if he has 60 to 62 pounds like he's said he should be able to crank it, that slow of a leak down shouldn't cause him a problem getting it started. Have you tried cranking it like this, turn the key on, leave it for a few seconds, turn the key back off, then turn it on again, that might boost the pressure up a little more.

i have tried turning the key on and off about 3 times and then will start for like 2-3 seconds and die. then won't restart for a few minutes after that it will only crank over.

Ctwright; the csfi spider is unlike any other injection system you may be used to. There is a central injection unit with 6 hoses that come off of it down to "poppet" valves. The central injector sends full pressure fuel to the hose and poppet valve that will only open when the pressure is above 60psi+. It is possible the poppets on this engine are gummed up and need 62psi+ in order to fire (or some higher pressure than 60psi). That is why it is critically important to have 60++ psi on these engines. If the pressure drops to 59psi while cranking that is not enough to open the poppets, remember, the poppets are just a valve (not electrically fired like the injector). The injector may be firing perfectly, but without the proper fuel pressure that poppet will not open and therefore will not spray fuel.

Ctwright; the csfi spider is unlike any other injection system you may be used to. There is a central injection unit with 6 hoses that come off of it down to "poppet" valves. The central injector sends full pressure fuel to the hose and poppet valve that will only open when the pressure is above 60psi+. It is possible the poppets on this engine are gummed up and need 62psi+ in order to fire (or some higher pressure than 60psi). That is why it is critically important to have 60++ psi on these engines. If the pressure drops to 59psi while cranking that is not enough to open the poppets, remember, the poppets are just a valve (not electrically fired like the injector). The injector may be firing perfectly, but without the proper fuel pressure that poppet will not open and therefore will not spray fuel.


Very true when my truck wouldn't start it's pressure was 59psi and after replacing the pump, it now has 61psi and starts right up every time. A pound or 2 for these trucks is the difference between starting and not.

I agree that there has to be about 60 psi for this fuel system to work right. But this thread's diagnosis is hard to follow. Are you saying you clamped off supply line and it ran? That doesn't make much sense since clamping of the supply line should've dropped the fuel pressure to the injector. Or did you just build good fuel pressure and then quickly clamp off the supply line and it held pressure whereas it didn't before clamping it off. Then that would indicate your fuel supply is adequate, your fuel pressure regulator and injector system holds pressure. You might have a promblem with fuel drain back when the fuel pump off, but that shouldn't keep engine from running while the pump is running and supplying good fuel pressure.

There should be a connector somewhere you can access between the injector and the PCM to check for an injector pulse. Did you check that? Can you clear up the question I asked above?

Since you aren't holding fuel pressure and you said the engine runs for a few seconds, what it sounds like to me is happening is there's a leak in the fuel pump pressure line assembly in the tank. Taht would make sense why it will build pressure with engine off but not supply enough pressure with engine running and then would leak down quick when the fuel pump is off.

I'd still want to check that the injector is being cycled.

dewaynep, you're absolutely correct on the poppets, they are almost "digital" when it comes to pressure requirements. However, this is a 95 and has the CMFI system. It has one injector with spider lines to each intake port and fuel pressure should be 58 to 64psi. Unlike the CSFI system which has 6 mini injectors, the spider lines, and requires 60 to 66psi.

I agree, this diagnosis is rather confusing with several "rabbit trails" off of it ;) In a nutshell, we've determined there's a leak in the tank and we're waiting for the results of a visual inspection.

Just a thought guys...might be off base here but did I read correclty that the spark was yellow or orange??? Maybe the type of tester glows that color but a high voltage spark system should have a fat blue spark capable of jumping 3-4" or so. A weak spark will ignite starter fluid but not gasoline(at least not well). Might this be a problem? My old 93 had the ignition module drop out quickly years ago. Just asking.

Good point, and it should be addressed. As you can see, most of the attention thus far has been focused on the fuel delivery system, and a problem was found. When that issue is resolved, the weak spark should be looked into as well. The more people involved here the better, Thanks!

Ctwright; the csfi spider is unlike any other injection system you may be used to. There is a central injection unit with 6 hoses that come off of it down to "poppet" valves. The central injector sends full pressure fuel to the hose and poppet valve that will only open when the pressure is above 60psi+. It is possible the poppets on this engine are gummed up and need 62psi+ in order to fire (or some higher pressure than 60psi). That is why it is critically important to have 60++ psi on these engines. If the pressure drops to 59psi while cranking that is not enough to open the poppets, remember, the poppets are just a valve (not electrically fired like the injector). The injector may be firing perfectly, but without the proper fuel pressure that poppet will not open and therefore will not spray fuel.


Yes, you are right, I did a little research on that like I said, which is why I asked him about turning the key on, off, and on again to build up more pressure and he said he has tried that and it started, I just didn't have time to reply back to it this morning I agree with y'all now I think it is the pump.

ok to clean up my testing procedure...

1 turned key on and left it on building up pressure in fuel supply line to 60-62 psi.
2 clamped line off really tight just in front of fuel filter towards engine side.
3 turned key off and let sit for about 30 minutes or so. Checked it and it had only lost about 5-7 psi.

As for my tester for spark, it looks like a sparkplug wire with a clear spark plug at one end and a spark plug wire connector at other end. just like this http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/productimages/mit/5889pic.jpg

for those of you just jumping in here is a list of what I replaced up till now,

Fuel pump, filter, injector unit, pressure regulator ( twice.. don't ask lol), spark plugs.. on this note i must say this; after replacing the plugs the truck would start for like 2-3 seconds, before that nothing just crank... wife also noted that the other day when I cranked it and it again started for a few seconds, when it died out and i cranked it again she smelled a heavy smell of the starting fluid. not sure why???
Also replaced, cap rotor, and air filter.

ok to clean up my testing procedure...

after replacing the plugs the truck would start for like 2-3 seconds, before that nothing just crank... wife also noted that the other day when I cranked it and it again started for a few seconds, when it died out and i cranked it again she smelled a heavy smell of the starting fluid..


Now I'm thinking again that the problem is flooding.

What did the plugs look like when you pulled them out?

they were carbonized... they were those four pronged platinums.. and a few of the prongs had bad carbon buildup on them
My father inlaw thinks it's the coil. He said he's had alot of older trucks do this and it turned out the coil was bad.

they were carbonized... they were those four pronged platinums.. and a few of the prongs had bad carbon buildup on them
My father inlaw thinks it's the coil. He said he's had alot of older trucks do this and it turned out the coil was bad.

You may be right, just like the guy also who just posted about all of us talking about your fuel system and then he reminded us of your spark, how weak it was, I overlooked that and I guess a few other people did as well. I also forgot as well when I mentioned I thought it was flooded that you could crank it with starter fluid. Starter fluid doesn't need as great a spark as your normal gas & air mixture. Either way though you do still have the leak down problem as the others have told you.

i will be putting in a new coil in thursday or friday.. when ever it stops raining...grrrr... Then I will post what I found. I prefer to start with the easy stuff first. droppingthe tank is a pain especially on my gravel driveway.

oK... found the problem.. it was.. wait for it wait for it...

Stupidity!!

I Puled the plenum and found the fuel injector wire had popped off. Started fine now it revs to 1500-2000 and stays there no matter how much i rev it ..

I have pulled the battery terminals to reset the cpu and will try again later.

Thanks for all your help fellas.

What about the excessive leakdown? Are you going to pursue it?

I was thinking the problem was with injector but I'm glad that you got it fixed and also that the other people got you into checking your fuel pressure, Old Master and the rest are correct you need to get that replaced ASAP.

ok as for the leak down, it was cranking prior to starting and was staying at 62-64 psi... so as for the leak down... i'm not going ot worry about it.

I may even sell the stupid thing now that it's running.

Thanks for all the help Old master and you too CT

You're welcome. If you decide to look into it, start a new thread and we'll be glad to help with the diagnosis.

Give me some credit here. If I remember correctly my first suggestion was to check injector resistance :icon16:.

Edit: Actually nevermind I think I just mentioned checking for injector pulsing and power. I confused this with another different thread with a CPI truck where I suggested checking injector resistance..I don't deserve any credit :icon16:.

well as far as i'm concerned you all deserve credit. Everyone pitched in to help out and offer up so good suggestions.

For anyone reading this in the future..

My final diagnosis was a loose connection at the fuel injector. It looked to be connected but really wasn't. I pushed it back on and zip tied it down.. won't have that problem again.
As for the high reving... again stupidity..... forgot to attach the TPS connector. man I hate computer controlled cars.

Thanks again everyone.