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Transmission Problems


countbrass
03-21-2009, 02:09 AM
Ok here's the deal .

I have a 1999 Hyundai Elantra (they only made one model that year)

When I am driving down hill it runs great. when on the flat it is great. But when I try to go uphill (and I mean 1 Degree angle and up)I lose all my speed and end up crawling up the damn thing.

It seems to shift through First and Second But when it shifts into Third it seems to downshift immediately and revs like crazy.

Now I'm not a complete idiot when it comes to cars so here is what I checked before coming here.

Spark Plugs and Wires are fine.
Fuel filter, Fuel Pressure, and Pump are fine.
Air Filter and Throttle Body are fine.
I changed the Tranny Fluid and Filter (no metal shavings, metal dust, or plastic in the pan) What I could see of the interior of the tranny looks pristine. (there was some sludge in the bottom of the pan but not enough to make me worry it does have 130,000 miles on it.
The Check Engine Light is on and has been since I bought the car.
I finally got around to having it read and I got 1 code.
p0441- Evaporative emission control system, purge valve stuck open.
So I am going to check the PCV valve tommorrow and hopefully that will fix it.

If anyone has any other suggestions let me know. I know I'm not thinking of everything and hopefully someone will think of something I havn't. Thanks. :runaround:

jsinton
03-21-2009, 07:47 AM
Your P0441 code has nothing to do with the PCV valve. It refers to the EVAP system, which is the system to collect and burn evaporating gas vapors from the fuel tank. It might be as simple as a a loose or defective gas cap, but typically in these cars, someone has pulled the hose off the charcoal canister because the EVAP system was FUBAR and didn't allow you to fill you gas tank... i.e. the gas pump shuts off all the time because of pressure. It doesn't affect performance in the least.

As far as the power problem... Did you check the timing belt recently? I'd do an inspection on the timing belt. Just remove to four little bolts from the timing belt cover on top and take the top cover off. Make sure it's in good shape, and adjust the tension accordingly.

countbrass
03-21-2009, 04:55 PM
How do I adjust the tension?

I really don't want to screw it up. It's my main form of transportation and I understand that if you don't know exactly what your doing you can damage it or knock it out of alignment.

I have never even had the cover off because of this so I don't even know what it looks like in there lol.

And where is the charcoal canister at so I can check it.

peachferrari
03-23-2009, 04:06 PM
I wouldn't think it would have anything to do with the timing belt. Seems to me if there were a timing problem it wouldn't matter what angle the car is at, you'd always have problems. Seems like a fuel system problem to me, and most likely if you fix the cause of the check engine light you'll fix this problem too.

I'm pretty sure the charcoal canister is under the car at the back, next to the trunk/spare tire well.

countbrass
03-23-2009, 04:30 PM
on this particular car the charcoal filter is inside the wheel well. so its easy to fix.

jsinton
03-24-2009, 07:00 AM
It's no big deal to check your timing belt. I usually do it about every 10k. There's four bolts on the top cover, easy to get to. You basically just want to look at it and make sure it's not cracked or frayed, and also check the tension. You check the tension by pressing on the long run with your finger a little bit. It should only move about 5mm. A lot of times, the thing is so loose you wonder how it still works. There's pulley that holds the tension on my older 99 Elantra. You just loosen the bolt a little bit until you can turn the pulley and make the belt tighter.

Your car has 130k miles. If you don't know the status of the timing belt, then it's time to know. Timing belt should be changed every 60k. If the timing belt fails, say goodbye to your motor.

EVAP system problems have NOTHING to do with engine performance issues. A P0441 code will not impact engine performance in the least. From odb-codes.com:

"This indicates that a part of the EVAP control system is no longer fuctioning correctly. The EVAP system consists of many parts, including (but not limited to) the gas cap, fuel lines, carbon canister, purge valve, and other hoses. The (EVAP) emission control system prevents the escape of fuel vapors from a vehicle's fuel system. Fuel vapors are routed by hoses to a charcoal canister for storage. Later, when the engine is running a purge control valve opens allowing intake vacuum to siphon the fuel vapors into the engine.

EVAP emission canister purge is controlled by a valve which allows engine vacuum to pull stored fuel vapors from fuel tank into the engine to be burned, rather than be vented to atmosphere. A vacuum switch is used to detect when flow exists. If the PCM commands purge and sees that the switch is closed (indicating no detected purge flow) P0441 is set.

Symptoms

Likely, no symptoms will be discernible to the driver, other than the illuminated Check Engine Light.
Causes

A code P0441 could mean one or more of the following has happened:

* Bad vacuum switch
* Broken or damaged EVAP line or canister
* Open in PCM purge command circuit
* Open or short in Voltage feed circuit to Purge Solenoid
* Faulty purge solenoid
* Restriction in EVAP solenoid, line or canister
* Corrosion or resistance in purge connector
* Bad PCM

Possible Solutions

With a P0441 OBD-II trouble code, diagnosis can be tricky at times. Here are some things to try:

* Common Chrysler fix - Replace Leak Detection Pump / LDP
* Repair damaged EVAP lines or canister
* Repair open or short in voltage feed circuit to Purge Solenoid
* Repair open in PCM purge command circuit
* Replace purge Solenoid
* Replace vacuum switch
* Repair restriction in Evap line or canister or soleniod
* Repair resistance in purge connector
* Replace PCM"

countbrass
03-25-2009, 03:45 PM
Well I checked the PCV valve because it was easy to do and that's fine.
And then I checked the Timing Belt and man was it loose. So I tightened that up.
But it's still not shifting right and I'm still losing power on the hills.

countbrass
03-31-2009, 11:01 AM
Well I found the exhaust leak. My damn manifold is cracked in 2 places. Looks like I'm heading to the junk yard. $225.oo for a new one is just too much lol.

lowsonoma1999
03-31-2009, 01:25 PM
There is a recall for cracked exhaust manifolds. Check with your dealer and see if your car falls within the range of the recalled vehicles. Or you can send me your VIN and I will find out for you.

countbrass
03-31-2009, 03:12 PM
here's my vin# KMHJF25FXXU809225 Now I'm not the original owner. The car was owned by one person before me and they were the original purchaser. I don't know if this matters but I figured I'd let you know.

lowsonoma1999
03-31-2009, 04:41 PM
here's my vin# KMHJF25FXXU809225 Now I'm not the original owner. The car was owned by one person before me and they were the original purchaser. I don't know if this matters but I figured I'd let you know.
The recall is still open on your car. Contact your dealer and tell them you have the exhaust manifold recall on your car. It is an inspection first, and replace if needed, at no cost to you. Might want to let them know that yours is cracked to make sure they have the part in stock.

usar89b
04-01-2009, 02:35 AM
The problem could be the transmission itself. My girl had a 2000 elantra with similar symptoms. That transmission is actually Mitsubishi tranny. They have a tendency to overheat or go out with no warning. Hard shifting started occuring in hers at 135000. Is the hard shifting after the vehicle is driven for awhile or from the start. That can tell you quiet a bit about your problem.

countbrass
04-01-2009, 07:28 AM
the car goes into the dealership on tuesday and i dont have to pay a damn thing lol. and the service tech told me right over the phone that he has had many of these recalls with the same symptoms as mine and this fixed almost all of them so hopefuly this will fix it.

pamselantra2001
06-18-2009, 08:38 AM
when i brought mine, its an auto the car shifts ok from start but when you pull up and go again it took of in 3rd and didnt go in to forth at all from start. i took it to a gearbox place ,they found that the gearbox has 2 sencers on top that tell it which gear to go in and they replace one that was playing up, goes good now it also went up hill bad when it was stuffed.
now it has a new problem lucky computer found that to, it was a senser that makes the car fall in an out of gears it is a air flow senser whats next... lol

Waleygator
08-25-2009, 10:19 AM
My 2000 Elantra had the tranny replaced 11 monthes ago, had just at 200k on it. Now it's acting up again. Local dealer couldn't figure out what was wrong, is now at AAMCO for them to evaluate. Starts out cold fine, shift great, but once warmed up won't shift into high, and when does feels like it's downshifting, really sluggish, lurches some. Hopefully more to come later today!

The yesterday was driving it home, turned the AC on, worked great, came to a stop light and the AC stopped blowing cold air, never done that before. Just turned it off, will work on one problem at a time I guess...

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