Hard starts after Warmed up

On my nova I have a huge air gap with 2 carbs. When i start the engine cold it fires up right away. Once its hot it is sometimes almost impossible to start. You have to almost flood the engine then start it. I have done this 2 times and each time the engine has a tapping noise i think its a valve. Once it blew my retaining clips off on one of my valves. I tried tightening down the rockers but it is still tapping. What i am wondering is if anyone has a set up like this and knows a trick for starting the engine?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/osylith/l_29ea1036b10f4a5e8764cfbf2670fc00.jpg

I also have a 75 nova, I was also having a problem with it starting up after it was warm, it wouldn't idel eather, no noise but oil pressure would drop down to zero after it warm up, after tearing it apart i found ten out of sixteen lifters had came apart the keepers on top of the lifters had broke, You may not have this problem, But i do know if your hearing a noise then it could be a worn cam lobe or a bad lifter, If the cam in worn then your lifter will make noise, over adjusting it will only work for a short time check your lifters and cam are you might do more damage to your motor.:cool:

Ok, thanks. There is a noise coming from within the engine before it was the rocker tapping on the valve cover. I tightened the rockers a very little it stopped. now the noise coming more deep in side the engine bay but not very noticeable. Thanks, this is helpful. i may just replace the cam and lifters and put a higher lift cam.

I also have a 75 nova, I was also having a problem with it starting up after it was warm, it wouldn't idel eather, no noise but oil pressure would drop down to zero after it warm up, after tearing it apart i found ten out of sixteen lifters had came apart the keepers on top of the lifters had broke, You may not have this problem, But i do know if your hearing a noise then it could be a worn cam lobe or a bad lifter, If the cam in worn then your lifter will make noise, over adjusting it will only work for a short time check your lifters and cam are you might do more damage to your motor.:cool:

nice intake, i doubt you need it or too carbs for that matter, sure its cool and everything but come on, this isnt the 60s man. nice stock manifolds btw are you in a restricted racing class or too cheap to buy 90 dollar headers? what is wrong with people today?

Novaboy is right ! You've seriously upgraded the fuel system on your engine but any gains you hope to achieve are being negated by the restricted stock exhaust manifolds . Might want to upgrade the exhaust to match the intake unless your goal is simply cosmetic !

dude those probably arent even vortec style heads, they look like the 87-95 centerbolt crap that everyone and theyre mom knows dont build any performance what so ever. lol. there is no point in that intake, my god. a victor jr i could half way understand but that thing, dang its just stupid. good for 9000 rpm or whatever. i bet he barely gets to 6000. stop trying to be cool dude and do some research before you buy parts.

On my nova I have a huge air gap with 2 carbs. When i start the engine cold it fires up right away. Once its hot it is sometimes almost impossible to start. You have to almost flood the engine then start it. I have done this 2 times and each time the engine has a tapping noise i think its a valve. Once it blew my retaining clips off on one of my valves. I tried tightening down the rockers but it is still tapping. What i am wondering is if anyone has a set up like this and knows a trick for starting the engine?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/osylith/l_29ea1036b10f4a5e8764cfbf2670fc00.jpg
what distributer are you useing? sometimes after warm up, the vacuum advance can
cause your engine to fire on a different cylender, and if the valves are closed on that cylender, it creates a back presure on the engine. Most stock distributers have a way to adjust amount of advance to solve this problem.

You need to adjust your valves. The hard sart once warmed up is because the valves are adjusted to tightly. You can't just crank on them if you think they're loose. You should loosen them all up, one side at a time. You should hand tighten, then give them about an 1/8 of a turn for your starting point. Then, with the valve cover still removed, start the engine and get it warm. This is going to be messy asoilwillberunningallover the place once you start the engie. Once wamred up you wan to go one at a time and tighten each one till the clicking stops. Do each one, then repeat on the other side. Once the valves are properly adjusted, the binding should be resolved making it as easy to start hot as it is cold.