Hey all,
I've got a '92 Dak,ext cab, 2wd, 5.2, auto w/ 98k.
Normally, the truck runs awesome, but now I've had
a recurring problem, (3rd time). While running, the engine just dies.
I have all lights, 40+ psi at fuel rail, Accel coil, new battery, clean
connections (even under the washer), clean battery connections.
As I said, it'll be running fine, then just die. Each time, it will sit
over night, then start as if no problem existed. I've run the self
diagnostic codes and 12 (loss of power) comes up, followed by
55 (end). I've replaced the coil & crank trigger. Everything works,
but I don't get power at the coil. It cranks over strong, ether has
no effect. Now I've read about ground wire issues, key switch issues,
and a bad pcm. How would I check these issues?
I really would like to resolve this, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

An update, I've got power to the coil, both wires stay hot while cranking. I know one should "blink" as the engine is cranked. Any idea on the cause? Anyone know how to check the distributor pick up?

On Fords I use a 12 volt test light. I put it on the coil negative and it will blink when the engine is cranked. I've also used an analog ohm meter on the two wires from the pickup on a Chevy the dial will sweep if working properly.
I also have a logic relay which will have an amber light on a pulsing signal.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_3023.htm This is a picture of a test light.

The Gray wire should be the control side of the coil, If you are not getting a ground on that side of the coil while cranking you might have a bad coil and the computer shut down the transistor to protect itself or it's not getting a crank signal to fire the coil. Have you checked your ASD relay? Those go bad often enough. Switch it with another relay if you can. The horn relay is a good candidate to test with as it doesn't get used very often and the horns are easy to test a relay with ;) if they honk and sustain a honk then its good.

On Fords I use a 12 volt test light. I put it on the coil negative and it will blink when the engine is cranked. I've also used an analog ohm meter on the two wires from the pickup on a Chevy the dial will sweep if working properly.
I also have a logic relay which will have an amber light on a pulsing signal.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_3023.htm This is a picture of a test light.

I used a similar test light, and both stay lit while cranking. Just for giggles, I replaced the pick up in the distributor, it's the same. I checked the crank position sensor (new), it tested good. I'm changing the PCM tomorrow, got one relatively inexpensively, (rebuilt). That's the last thing to replace. I'll post
results tomorrow.

The Gray wire should be the control side of the coil, If you are not getting a ground on that side of the coil while cranking you might have a bad coil and the computer shut down the transistor to protect itself or it's not getting a crank signal to fire the coil. Have you checked your ASD relay? Those go bad often enough. Switch it with another relay if you can. The horn relay is a good candidate to test with as it doesn't get used very often and the horns are easy to test a relay with ;) if they honk and sustain a honk then its good.

I'd had this problem back in January, so I replaced the coil with an Accel, (why not upgrade), then it happened again, (3 weeks later). Replaced the crank position sensor, no change, but it started the next morning. This time I've checked all the wire connections, cleaned all grounds and battery posts, replaced the dizzy pick up, switched and tested the relays with known good ones. Tomorrow I'm replacing the PCM, I read a TSB about the CPS wiring harness, but the PCM looks to have some "hot spots", so if it works, I'll post up here. The problem comes and goes, I just want it gone.

I'd had this problem back in January, so I replaced the coil with an Accel, (why not upgrade), then it happened again, (3 weeks later). Replaced the crank position sensor, no change, but it started the next morning. This time I've checked all the wire connections, cleaned all grounds and battery posts, replaced the dizzy pick up, switched and tested the relays with known good ones. Tomorrow I'm replacing the PCM, I read a TSB about the CPS wiring harness, but the PCM looks to have some "hot spots", so if it works, I'll post up here. The problem comes and goes, I just want it gone.

New PCM took care of it. At least now I've got a NEW ignition system. I got the rebuilt PCM from Kragen (or Schucks/Checker/O'Reilly) for $120, so it wasn't a big hit, and now it runs. Installed it, reconnected the battery, turned the key and it lit right off. WHEW!!!

Now it's time for a supercharger eh?

Now it's time for a supercharger eh?


He he, nope, I've got my VW's for the "go fast", my Dak is my tow, parts chaser, drive with a/c vehicle. But don't think I haven't tossed around the idea.