no fuel no spark
no fuel no spark
03-08-2009, 05:54 PM
03-09-2009, 09:37 AM
Check the CKP (Crankshaft positon sensor) at the crankshaft pulley to make sure the elctrical wires are clean and to make sure that it is in a position close to the harmonic balancer to make the pick up signal to fire the plug.
03-09-2009, 08:29 PM
im sorry i forgot to mention that its the 2.0l zetech motor and i did check that connection many of times thats why i was thinking it it could be that. tomorrow im going to scan it and see if it connects to the PCM or if it throws a crank sensor code.... when i find out ill post the solution so everybody will know, thanks for your time
03-10-2009, 04:07 PM
ok well i scanned it and these where the codes.....
im going to change the crank sensor which is the code p0320 - ign/dis engine check fault. this is probably the problem since it doesn't know the timing to send a spark and then it won't let it send fuel, its throwing these other codes.... i have the crank sensor on the way and ill post what happens, thanks
03-11-2009, 04:21 PM
well i changed the crank sensor and still no spark or fuel... im going to go through the whole electrical system that has anything to do with the coil and the injectors to see if there is a bad ground that i missed or didn't plug in, or for a bad wire and hope for something... if anybody has any ideas please post something... anything helps, i don't care if its the dumbest idea... it could work, thanks, Nate
03-11-2009, 04:48 PM
did you pull the plugs out to see if there wet with gas. if there not wet your not getting fuel and should'nt be getting spark at all coil packs and if your plugs are not getting fire from the coil. i know you was getting spark at coil but not at plugs. and is it yellow spark or blue? if yellow spark thats not good.
03-12-2009, 12:07 PM
Check voltage on the primary side of the coil pack. If it is hot then the problem in on the trigger side of the coil -- Crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition module--power control module. If there is no voltage to the coil the fault is in the ignition switch or wiring.
A bad ground from the engine to the body of the car could be keeping it from firing up. The ground cable on the bat goes to the starter housing, but engine/trans. mounts may be keeping it from grounding to the chassis.
03-12-2009, 04:29 PM
i did check the plugs and they are dry as a bone but the battery ground i had going to the bellhousing bolt closest to the wire where i thought it went... ill pull it and put it on the starter housing... maybe thats it... if so that just messed up haha, well im going to give it a shot, thanks for the input, ill keep you guys posted
03-12-2009, 05:17 PM
well i moved the ground to the starter and nothing... there is new plugs, i changed the coil with one that i had same with the cam sensor, replaced the crank sensor, changed the plug wires with other ones.... i have power to the coil in the middle wire and then when i turn the key on i have power to all three wires, i unplugged the injector plugs and ran a test light on those and they all have power when the key is on... the kid that owned it before me sucked up water and hydro locked it, this motor was out of an automatic. the car is a standard but i dont' see that mattering...unless the crank sensor is not in the same exact spot and not reading the flywheel marks... is that a possibility? i don't see it but who the hell knows any more what these engineers think and do. like i said i have the power going to everything when the key is on but nothing is going into the cylinders. how possible is it that the PCM just so happened to go bad? again i don't see it but anything is possible i guess, or when the key is on i shouldn't have power to all three wires on the coil and its the ignition module or ignition switch that is messed up. i should of got the 302 rear wheel drive conversion and threw 100 shot on it and been done with it ha, thanks for you guys help- anything else please get back to me
03-12-2009, 08:48 PM
well i checked everything for power when the key is on and everything that should have power has power... the only two things that don't have power are the crank and cam sensors, i don't know is they generate power on there own like some or if there is power sent to them. if there is supposed to be power sent to them then im just going to have to go with a bad PCM!!!.... Bad call? i don't know anymore guys
03-13-2009, 07:09 PM
i got one here.... so when i scanned it for codes (with a snapon) i have the option to start the car to see what would happen and when i did it shut the scanner off like if it killed power to the PCM.... now whats between the ignition and the computer that would cause that? short in the ignition switch? starter relay? maybe something bad in the PCM?
03-16-2009, 04:57 PM
well i went through everything... i even changed the injector harness and recleaned every ground... it went from only the gas and the temp gauge only raising when you crank it to the tach and the mph gauges going up all the way when cranking only for a second or to.... that only happened a few times then it stop doing that when you try to start it..... i figured if post that, im not sure if that is even supposed to do that or does that mean theres a short somewhere, nobody has posted anything so i guess im on my own here... when i figure it out ill post the problem, thanks, Nate
03-20-2009, 08:26 PM
well i got it... there is two different housings for the crank sensor... one for a manual trans and one for an auto... there removable by pulling the trans out and unbolting one torx bolt from the inside and poping it out... the one for the auto is a longer housing and the plug faces up. the one for a manual is shorter slightly angled and the plug faces toward the fans a little. once i found one for a manual trans i relaced it and it works... the sensor them selfs are the same ones.... pretty rediculous set up but it is what it is and thats the answer to the problem so if anybody replaces a motor in a focus... if you get one out of an automatic make sure you swap the crank sensor housing first or youll be pulling your hair and the trans just for one bolt.... Nate
07-16-2013, 08:14 AM
thank you so much this has saved me some major steps I've just done the exact same swap and had the same problems and sure enough I had the automatic crank sensor housing in with a manual flywheel I'm so pissed I have to drop the trans again when I could have done it when it was out lol o well hope this works
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