94 Metro 5 Speed Manual Transmission Rebuild - PART 2 - Assembly

03-01-2009, 05:01 PM
This Thread is the second part of "94 Metro 5 Speed Manual Transmission Rebuild" in which I will assemble,
properly, I hope, the 5 speed Manual transmission that I purchased at a Pull & Save for $55 and disassembled.

Here is the link to the first part - it is long and packed with pictures of the disassembly process.
94 Metro 5 Speed Manual Transmission Rebuild - Part 1 - Disassembly (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=941461)

Like the first part, I am keeping this thread closed to prevent it from filling up with
a gozillion comments - it is long enough !
I'll open it up when done with the assembly.

Once again....

"Dear Lord...Please - don't let me screw this up !"

This is the first time I have ever done this...

Therefore, if, in the course of assembling the transmission, you see me messing up - doing something wrong,
please Private Message me and I will correct whatever I screwed up.

The Manual says to grease the Gear Shifter Oil Seal and drive it in using a Seal Driver.
This took quite a bit of force and the seal did not seat all the way into the Case end.
I decided to go only as far in as the old Oil seal was in...played it safe.
I purchased a Bearing & Seal Driver Kit, but you could use a piece of hard wood and a hammer...I am sure.

You can see that I drove the New Seal in only as far as the old Seal had been in.

Here is the Gear Shifter Oil Seal with the Boot placed back on it.

Someone had asked if there was an "O-Ring" in there - No, no O-Ring !


03-04-2009, 11:10 AM

This is what my "Workbench" is beginning to look like.

I very heartily advise those who are attempting this rebuild to keep all the parts from
the Transmission in very meticulous order on a stick or a rope...

All these parts are starting to look the same to me...what a freaking complication!

Here I show how I labeled the old R Bearing - it looks just like the new one and
is hard to tell that it is "used".

Installed the new R Bearing on the Input Shaft.

Pressed it back on by using the Bearing Puller as a compressing tool - backwards, as it were.


I knew that I had to leave the Bearing Puller open far enough to let the enlarged
portion of the Input Shaft (IS) pass thru the hole in the Puller.


It all went smooth as butter - "Just like Downtown..."

I pulled the bearing right up against the Gear portion of the IS


Next comes the 3rd Gear Needle Bearings, the 3rd Gear and then the Synchronizer ring
(page 7A - 24 of the Manual).

First I have to make sure the Synchronizer Ring is properly assembled and which way it goes on.

The Manual says the synchronizer Rings for the 3rd and 4th Gears are identical.


03-05-2009, 12:20 AM
The R Bearing is on.

Next comes the 3rd Gear, its Needle Bearings, the 3rd Gear synchronizer, then the Synchronizer Sleeve and Hub Assembly.

As you can see from the photo of my workbench right now, I have kept the Shaft's
components on a rope in order as they came off the Shafts.

I wiped the Input Shaft off with a clean rag and put a few drops of Motor Oil on the section where the 3rd Gear
Needle Bearings go and slid the Needle Bearings over the slot.


Then I gently slid the 3rd Gear over the bearings.


I took the new Synchronizer Ring out of the box (they are each of a different diameter) and compared
the new one with the old one.

I noticed that they are not exactly identical ! Same everywhere except for the tiny teeth shown in the photos.

I would hope this slight difference is not important.....


Here is a side view - see the little teeth on the old one - not on the new ring.


I am contacting the E-Bay seller and asking about the anomaly...

I put some motor oil on the 3rd Gear sloped ring area and slid the new ring on.

Next comes the High Speed Sleeve and Hub Assembly.

Here is where I slowed way down and studied this particular part and compared it
with the previous photographs.

This part has two different sides ! It is not symmetrical.....

Plus, I don't have the Special Tool" the manual calls for to push it on the Input Shaft....

Time to Adapt, Improvise....Overcome!

Notice from some previous photos that the "Hub" has a longer central flange and a
shorter one.

Here are some photos from the Disassembly.

If you study it closely, you will notice that the shorter flange was on top away from
the 3rd Gear and that the Sleeve's flat side was also away from the 3rd Gear.





So...I will push the unit onto the Input Shaft with the Longer Hub Flange toward the 3rd Gear and the Sleeve's flat side away from the 3rd Gear.

This picture shows the flange is toward the 3rd Gear (Sleeve removed to show the Hub).


So - I reassembled the High Speed Hub & Sleeve Assembly (HSH&SA) as per the above photo's "directionality"
and somewhat gently "Tapped" it onto the Input Shaft's Splines with my trusty, rusty Ball Pien Hammer and a piece of
ABS water pipe coupler to push on the Hub without disturbing the Sleeve.


Well...that came to a rather quick end. As the HSH&SA goes on, it gets progressively
harder and harder to move it.

So I had to find another "Special Tool"... My Garage turned up a 1.25 inch electrical
conduit pipe which I cut to 5.5 inches long and flattened one end with a grinder
and file.


Using this pipe, I was able to pound the HSH&SA down until the Circlip slot was available.

Took quite a bit of pounding - the HSH&SA goes down the splines with some difficulty.


This "Special Tool" business is killing me (already spent way too
much money on Special Tools to do this job ! Actually - I have !)

A six inch piece of 1 inch water pipe would probably do the job also - don't have one...

As the High Speed Sleeve and Hub Assembly is going down the splines, at some point you have to
rotate the Brass Synchronizer Ring up into the High Speed Sleeve and Hub Assembly where those "Slots"
in the synchronizer fit the Keys in the Sleeve, (Photo above) and hold it there with your hand while
tapping the High Speed Sleeve and Hub Assembly downward -
or else you'll damage the Brass Sync ring !

Got that ?! Manual - page 7A - 24 top of page.

Then Keep tapping until the High Speed Sleeve and Hub Assembly is seated.

"Tap" harder and harder as the Hub goes down the Splines - more friction.

It is seated when the "Circlip" slot is uncovered and the Circlip can be inserted.

I could have used the Gear Puller in reverse, but my threaded rod wasn't long enough.

Warning - do not pick up the Input Shaft by holding onto the HSH&SA....

It will come apart throwing the 3 "Keys" all over the place !

I speak from experience...I spent 30 minutes trying to find one of the "Keys" on
my workbench area floor. You don't want to do that !

The 3rd Gear must rotate freely when done.... Whew !

"....Lot of 'splainin', Loocy!" (remember Rickie Ricardo - I Love Lucy?)

The Circlip was put back on and the 4th Gear, its Needle Bearings (oiled)
and the 4th Gear synchronizer were put in place.


The L Ball Bearing Race (6206) was placed on the Shaft and was pulled on with
the Gear and Bearing Puller using some 30 inch 3/8 inch threaded rod in order to
get the length required.


The 5th Gear Spacer was pulled on in the same manner with the Gear & Bearing Puller. No problem.


The Countershaft is next....


03-06-2009, 12:31 AM
........Countershaft Assembly........

The manual says to install the R Bearing Cone first. (Number on Bearing is 33005)

Here is the Countershaft end sticking up thru a File Cabinet Folder with a hole in it
on top of a paper towel Roll - to help hold the bugger so's I can photograph it !

The R Roller Thrust Bearing Cone has a thin metal cage around the rollers and this
is quite fragile - as I found out when I was taking the old one off.

In order to protect it, they use another "Special Tool"....lol !


I found that a 1/2 inch washer (1.25 inches diameter) fits inside the cage and is high
enough to allow me to press down on the Bearing center without hurting the surrounding roller cage.


So - I set up my Gear and Bearing Puller again (the long threaded rods allow me to
do just about anything!) and pressed the bearing onto the Countershaft.

Went on really nice - no problems.


Here is shown how the Washer sticks up above the Bearing Cage - I was able to
spin the bearing as I was pressing it on !


The Washer stopped the Gear and Bearing Puller right exactly at the top edge of the Countershaft - just as it should be....Nice.

I labeled the OLD R Bearing Sleeve (End Race) and covered the Bearing with it just to protect the Rollers whilst I work on the rest of the Shaft.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Put in the 1st Gear Needle Bearings, oiled them, then pushed on the 1st Gear.

The 1st Gear Synchronizer Ring is supposed to be different than the 2nd Gear
Synchronizer Ring...

Manual (Page 7A - 26 Bottom of page) says the "Key Slot" sizes are

1st Gear Synchronizer Ring Key slot = 8.2 mm (0.32 in)

2nd Gear Synchronizer Ring Key slot = 9.6 mm (0.38 in)

The Kit has both with the 8.2 mm (0.32 in) size. .....?

Wrote an E-Mail to the E-Bay Seller asking if they screwed the pooch....

Here is the answer (quoted)....... dated 3-6-2009


It’s how we supply our kit and its no mistake, use the synchros.
The slot widths make no difference unless it’s too narrow for the keys.
This has been proven over time many times.
We sell the same ring for 1st & 2nd

Thank you for being so careful

Randy Laskowsky
866-223-5656 Toll Free"

So...I will take Randy at his word and proceed along the path to finishing this assembly.

Everything else in the Kit has been "A-OK" and things are, as NASA would say, "Nominal" - going according to plan.


03-06-2009, 05:53 PM
I got out my "Rope of Countershaft Components" and took a picture to show how I've been
keeping track of parts that are starting to all look the same to me....


I wiped off the 1st Gear Needle Bearings, wiped off the shaft, put a couple of drops of
Motor Oil on both and placed the Needle Bearings over the shaft - then put the 1st Gear in place.

The 1st Gear Synchronizer Ring was slipped onto the cone on the 1st Gear and then
the Hub & Sleeve Assembly was placed on the splines - then turned until they lined up.

Used my Gear and Bearing Puller again to push the Assembly down onto the Shaft -
it went on fairly easily without any problems.

Dropped the Circlip onto the Shaft and took this photo....


Installed the Circlip into it's slot, then placed the 2nd Gear Needle Bearings onto
the Shaft as above (essentially a repeat of above).

Then the 2nd Gear Synchronizer was placed over the Hub & Sleeve assembly with
the slots lined up with the keys and the tapered inner portion up..

Slid on the 2nd Gear (tapered part toward Synchronizer) and oiled the Bearing some more. Rotates freely.

I applied some oil to the splines and sat the 3rd Gear on the splines with the protruding flange upward
as per the picture in the background of the photo (This Photo Helps a lot!)


Now I have to drive the 3rd Gear down. Will use my "Special Conduit Tool" and will support the
R Bearing Cone with the 1.25 inch washer used before.


You have to hold the Shaft on a Vice or Anvil of some sort and pound rather hard on
the 3rd Gear -
all the while making sure the R-bearing Cone is free to rotate with the WASHER
in the end of the Shaft !

If you damage that R Bearing Cone "Retainer Cage", you will be S.O.L. !

My workbench was vibrating, crap rolling off, ears ringing....Lord!

I put some oil down between the 3rd Gear flange and the Shaft into the Splines and it seemed
to make the 3rd Gear go down a tad easier - maybe it was just wishful thinking...(?)

After BEATING the crap out of the Conduit (deforming), there is about 1/2 Inch to go.

It won't go any further - maybe that's why the Manual (7A - 27) says to use
the "Special Tool" - and a press...crap !

In desperation, I decided to use the Bearing and Seal Puller plus the hammer.



Ran into a Baaaad problem - the Hub & Sleeve Assembly went too far one way
and almost came apart while I was pounding this bugger !

I put pieces of Foam Rubber between the 3rd and 2nd Gears to keep the 2nd Gear in place
so that the Hub & Sleeve Assembly couldn't flip back and forth...

I would heartily advise to keep that 2nd Gear in place. If the Hub - Sleeve comes apart,
you'd have to take the 3rd Gear off again to get at it! A bastard....

Edited in - It is Saturday (Next Morning) - I finally got 3rd Gear within about 0.5 mm of 2nd Gear
by BOTH pressing the Gear to the point where the Gear & Bearing Puller was
bending AND bashing the Gear with my Hammer and Conduit Tool....

I missed a couple of times and bashed my hand holding the Conduit...I guess it's worth it...
...at least I didn't bash and break my $5 Japanese WalMart watch -
That's right...it's not Chinese....how did that happen....?

BTW - a lot of really foul cursing does seem to help !


Crvett69 and several others have suggested placing the Shaft in the Freezer and
heating the splined Gear in the oven to 150° and then driving them together.

Considering how my now swollen hand feels, I just put the Countershaft in our Freezer and,
since we are making Pizza, the 4th Gear will be heated after the Pizza is done.

The Heating - Cooling idea - don't know if it made a difference - I have no "Control Experiment" to judge by.

The 4th Gear started going on with a hammer and 1 inch dia Steel Pipe (2.25 inches long) but got difficult quickly.

So I went back to my Gear and Bearing Puller to push it back on. That worked. (no picture)

I drove the L Bearing Cone (32004) on using the 1 inch Dia pipe and the hammer.
Went on fine - no worries....

The Picture shows the L Bearing (32004) with its End Race covering it for protection.


Finally - here are the Hideously Expensive "Special Tools" I had to get to assemble
the Countershaft. Plus some liniment for my swollen left hand....


So...done with the shafts for now.

Comes the reassembly of the shafts into the case....Oh Boy....


03-07-2009, 07:19 PM
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Assembled shafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

This photo might be of some use to someone as they rebuild their Transmission.


I give thanks to Way for his photo which I used while I was re-assembling mine.

His was the photo stuck to my Basement Oil Tank behind that which I was photographing and which I used as a reference.


03-08-2009, 09:19 PM
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Assembling the Differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The Gear & Bearing Puller was used again to push the two Ball Bearings onto the

A couple of side grasping rods comes with the set and I used them to grasp the side flange
of the Differential when the Ball Bearings were pulled on.

The large washers and different short Bolts and Flair Nuts which I purchased to
push things on with - now are very handy!


A drop of the oil was put on the inside of the L - Bearing where it slides down the shaft before pressing.
Everything went well. No worries....


The Plastic Speedometer Gear was placed on the right side with the flat side away from the Differential
and the R - Ball Bearing was pressed on as above.

Notice the 3/8 Threaded Rods screwed into the Gear Puller grasper nuts to lengthen the reach -
Thank God I had them !

Again - no worries.


At this point, I put the Large Differential Gear on, noted which side had bolt marks and placed the bolts.


The nuts require tightening with a torque wrench which is a tool all backyard auto mechanics
must have on hand...bought mine a long time ago !

A setting of 60 ft lbs was used.

I opened my Large Vise (a very good investment!) enough to allow the Differential to set
inside the jaws without touching the gears.

The Differential cannot turn due to the sides hitting the Vise Jaws allowing one to
easily tighten the eight bolts.

As each bolt was torqued, I put a dot on it with a "Sharpie" silver marking pen
so I would not miss one.
If any of these come loose when the Transmission is in use - That's all she wrote...


The Differential is assembled now.


Time, I think, to start the assembly process of putting all this stuff back into the case...

More to come.....


03-09-2009, 01:53 AM
. . . . . . . . . . . . . Installing the Shift Rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

I wiped off and oiled the Gear Shift Shaft Rod and inserted it into the Shift Boot and up
into the shaft Shaft Oil Seal and all the way in.


The "Ball" that allows the Gear Shift Rod to click into three positions was installed, followed by the
Spring and Bolt with Washer and tightened.

This Bolt is supposed to have a sealant applied to keep it from coming loose.
.......(Suzuki Bond No. 1215)
Same as "Permatex Blue Medium Strength Threadlocker", methinks.....

Permatex Med Strength Threadlocker Blue Gel (http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/thread_compounds/b_threadlocker_gels/auto_Permatex__GEL_SQUEEZE_Medium_Strength_Threadl ocker_BLUE_Gel.htm)

ALSO - for later on...the case is supposed to be sealed with Suzuki Bond 1215.
I called Suzuki Parts - don't have 1215, but they do have 1207B (squeeze tube) for $25. (!)
I decided that I will use Permatex 599 RTV Silicone Sealant (Ultra Grey).

Permatex® Ultra Grey® Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Grey_Rigid_High-Torque_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm)

Anything white in these pictures tends to screw up the Camera's exposure system...

The Shift Shaft Rod was turned as it was when I disassembled the Transmission, and Thread
Seal was used to attach the Shift "Arm" with the bolt on the outside.


The Countershaft R-Bearing Race Cup was pressed into it's appropriate place
next to where the Differential goes in.
Do this first since you cannot get the cup into the hole with the Differential in place!


I then lowered the Differential Assembly back into the Case and when it is in, the large Gear
is about 2 mm below the edge of the Case.


According to the Manual, page 7A - 32, I now install the "Speedometer Driven Gear Case Assembly" into the Case.


Next comes "the fun part"....


03-10-2009, 11:31 PM
The Manual, page 7A - 32, in the middle, says,
"Join input shaft, counter shaft, low speed gear shift shaft and high speed gear shift
shaft assemblies all together, then install them into Right Case.

Input shaft R bearing on shaft can be installed into right case by tapping shaft with plastic hammer.
Check to make sure counter shaft is engaged with final gear while installing."

Yah, sure...right.....you betcha!....OKie Dokie....I'll just get right on that....!

Here are the two "Gear Shift Shafts" still together as I took them out.

Thank God I didn't take them apart !


The Two Drive Shafts joined in the right position...


And the whole Schlemiel together as I envision it.


I decided that holding four HEAVY (14 lbs !) boogety boogeties together at once while trying to rotate them
and place them in four holes while making sure two gears mesh is beyond my pay grade....

So I had the idea of tying this whole ball of wax together so they would not get dropped and dinged - at least.


Well folks...it worked quite well.

You place them as best you can, jiggle this, juggle that, push here and wiggle there and it goes in....Whew.

Jiggle the Input Shaft while pushing it and the Big Ball Bearing goes into the case nicely.

BTW - see that lever on the left sticking up in the picture below...make sure it is down before
you do this...take my word for that.


Next, the 5th and Reverse Gear Shift (5RGS) Shafts were installed.

I tied the Clutch lever down in order to take the pictures below - it was right in the way!

The Low Speed Gear Shift Fork needs to be pushed and held up in order for the 5RGS to be installed in it's
appropriate holes and the Reverse Gear Shift Arm has to be placed in the Reverse Gear Shift Lever.....what a mouthful!


Here is all the stuff assembled prior to placing the Reverse Idler Gear in it's spot.


The above two 5th & Rev Gear Shift Shafts are a rather complex system that
took me a while to figure out.

There are Ball Bearings and a Spring between the two shafts in that housing holding them together.

See page 7A - 29 - bottom diagram !


Place the Reverse Idler Gear over the Hole next to the Input Shaft making sure the
Reverse Gear Shift Lever Pin is riding in the Gear Slot and insert the Reverse Gear Shaft.

Remember - there is a plastic Washer where shown in the photo.
Make the line on the top of the Reverse Gear Shaft point toward the small arrowhead in the case.
This allows for the screw to come thru the Left case when you assemble it all.


The next page of the Rebuild Manual (7A - 33) starts with Sealing the two halves of the case together !


03-12-2009, 09:18 PM
I printed out those parts of the Manual related to assembly so I would be sure not to screw up.

The Right Case was fairly clean inside but the Left Case was still quite dirty so I sprayed the inside
with a degreaser that we had and sat the Case in the Shower and hosed it off with hot water (it is 6 degrees outside!)
and repeated this several times.

I dried the Case on our Floor Forced Air Furnace Register.

All the previous sealer was removed both from the edges and from the bolt holes.

I scraped off any sealer left on the Flat with a single edged razor blade then used a screwdriver and a
wood stick covered with a paper towel folded several times to rub the rest off until both rims were clean.


Some of the 13 Case Bolts had crud in the threads, so I cleaned them off with a wire brush wheel
mounted in a bench grinder.

I then made sure each bolt and hole would thread...no oil or grease !
The Case is clean and dry.


The Permatex "Ultra Grey RTV Silicone" No. 599BR was applied sparingly to the right case rim making sure
the sealer was spread on all of the rim.

I did not apply huge gobs of it since the Case sides mate quite tightly and almost all of the sealer
will be squeezed out - on the inside also !


The Left Case was put on top of the Right Case and slowly lowered making sure everything went
where it was supposed to go...

At some point the Left Case stops going onto the Right Case and one must gently tap the Left case with a
rubber or plastic mallet - Make sure to tap all around on all edges so it goes down evenly and up near the two shafts also.


After the Case was mated, I put in all 11 Bolts (2 go on the inside of the Bell making 13 total),
hand tightened them, then used a Torque Wrench set to 12 ft lbs and tightened every other
one then all in order (No photo taken).

Then installed the two bolts going into the Case from the Bell side of the Transmission.

The bolt which holds the Reverse Idler Gear Shaft in place had Blue Threadlock put on and
was screwed in to 12 ft lbs also. I put sealer on the washer.

NOW you see why you had to align the threaded hole in the end of the Reverse Gear Idler Shaft
toward the mark on the case !

Everything looks OK. The Input Shaft turns, so no apparent screw ups.

I'll let the Sealer cure overnight before doing any more.
BTW - Put the cap on the Sealer and clean out the applicator tip - you hardly use any to do this job...


03-14-2009, 02:19 PM
Next Comes installing the three Ball Bearings and Springs which keep the Shift Shafts
in place. Page 7A - 33, bottom.

I cleaned the immediate area around the holes the Ball Bearings and Springs go into.
Someone recommended "Goo Gone" as a very good solvent. I bought some.
It does work well at removing the old sealer...and most anything else !


Here are the Ball Bearings, Springs and Bolts that go into the Right Case near the mating edge.

Used the case sealer and thinly "painted" the Washer (case side) and the Bolt head to seal the whole system.
Don't get sealer into the hole or on the springs - Manual's Caution.

The longest spring goes in the middle. I torqued the Bolts by hand ... 10 ft lbs is so little!



I used a 1.25 inch ABS Plastic Water Pipe Fitting (42 mm OD) to tap the L Bearing Race Cup
down onto the Bearing.


The "Left Case Plate" goes on next - Don't forget to put the SHIM down over the
L Bearing Race Cup first!

Big Warning - if you are a clumsy fingers like me...be most careful not to drop those screws or
they most assuredly will fall thru those holes and fall into the assembled case.

I almost had that happen twice ! Hell on wheels!


The Shim was placed and then the Left Case Plate was put in with that 'tongue' pushed into the Gear Shift Shaft Slot.

The Phillips Head screws were cleaned and Blue Threadlock applied (my decision) and were tightened
down with the Phillips Head Bit in a 5\16ths socket wrench like I used before to loosen them.



03-14-2009, 05:23 PM
The 5th Gear Speed Synchronizer Sleeve and Hub Assembly (5GSS&HA) is complicated.

The Manual, pgae 7A - 35 describes the assembly with a diagram which I followed closely.

Here is the 5GSS&HA shown "Exploded" so as to see the non-symmetrical nature of the Keys,
Hub and Sleeve.

Note! The Keys are shorter on one side ! The Sleeve is different on each side as is the Hub...


The whole shooting match was assembled as per the Manual and here it is in all its glory.


I wonder if some folks who rebuilt their Transmissions and who say it never worked the same again
didn't miss this subtlety in the 5GSS&HA... ?

The 5th Gear goes on and it, also, is not symmetrical - the "machined" side goes toward the transmission.


The Countershaft 5th Gear is on and the Input Shaft 5th Gear Needle Bearings are shown ready for the Input Shaft 5th Gear.


Oiled the Needle Bearings and installed the Input Shaft 5th Gear a shown and now ready to tighten
the Countershaft end nut.


I fiddled around with the Gear Changers inside the Case until the two shafts were locked up and applied the end nut
(a replacement since I had to cut the old one off).

Then I tightened the Countershaft nut to 50 ft lbs with my trusty 1/2 inch Torque Wrench.


Looking at that Countershaft Nut, I can tell everyone right now, I do not want to bash it with
a chisel to "Stake" it !

I don't want to damage the Bearings on that shaft...

That must be done with some sort of "Special Tool"............Rubbish !

Time again to "Adapt, Improvise, Overcome...!"

I am thinking - Weld it or drill a hole and put a screw in the slot side....Drill a hole!

So I did, then tapped it, then I screwed it....and deformed the threads inside the Nut slot so it can't come out.


The Manual (line 9, page 7A - 35) says, "....then caulk nut at C with caulking tool and hammer."

God knows what a "Caulking Tool" is, but, nevertheless, I spread the Grey Sealer down into the slot
to surround the screw and then into the top of the Countershaft Nut and wiped the edges clean.

Whew !


03-15-2009, 12:18 AM
The Manual, Page 7A - 35, line 10 says, "Install synchronizer Ring and Ring Spring" before putting the
5th Gear Speed Synchronizer Sleeve and Hub Assembly (5GSS&HA) on.

No such "Spring" was in this Transmission when I took it apart.
No Spring of any sort is left over in any of my Zip Lock Bags....
I have no idea what this "Spring" is....I hope it was a mistake on the author's part. lol

I suspect that the author of this Manual was assembling the 5GSS&HA on the shaft, instead of before,
as was described on page 7A - 35, line 5. (?) A screw up ?

I think he was talking about one of the semicircular springs that holds the Keys into the Hub and Sleeve Assembly.
I already installed that when I reassembled the 5GSS&HA. Onward....

The 5th Gear Shift Fork was mated to the 5GSS&HA and lowered onto the Input Shaft
and the Shift Shaft and Shift Guide Shaft - no problem if....
you do not push the 5GSS&HA down at all !

If you push it down, the Keys will come shooting out of the Hub & Sleeve!


There are two grooves in the top of the Hub end - I aligned one of them with the
punch mark on the Input shaft, then wiggled the gears and the Hub sort of fell into place.


I placed the "Hub Plate" on the Input Shaft with the little hole next to the Punch mark and over
the Hub Rounded Groove (I suppose for oil movement).

The the Circlip was installed - no problem.

NOW the 5GSS&HA can be moved up and down since the Hub Plate keeps the Keys from coming out.

The "Spring Pin " - Manual, page 7A - 36, line 12 - was driven in with the slit facing away from the Transmission (up).

The Ball was placed in the hole and the cap (with Blue Threadlock) was installed hand tight with an Allen Wrench.


Before I put the Black Cover on over this stuff, I am going to assemble the Gear Shift & Select Shaft Assembly
into the case and make sure everything is copacetic.


03-15-2009, 06:19 PM
The Gear Shift and Selector Shaft Assembly (which I never disassembled) was returned into the case.

Some Motor Oil was dripped on the Shaft before it was pushed in.

Make sure all the Shift Forks inside the case are lined up.

You have to hold the Gear Shift Interlock Plate horizontal as you insert the Rod as it must pass thru
those "Shift Forks" that shift the Gears.


Here is a close up of those "forks" and the Interlock Plate.

The Interlock Plate restricts the Shift Forks such that only one at a time can be moved.

This keeps the transmission from going into two or more gears at the same time.

The Mechanical Engineers who designed this stuff get all my admiration!
This transmission is a mechanical wonder to me - I cannot fathom an automatic transmission!


The Shift Yoke was installed by lowering it into the Case on a hooked piece of Solder Wire (easily bent).

The Yoke has a tilted top which needs to be tilted to the left side when looking at the case as in the photo.

You have to pull the Gear Shift and Selector Shaft Assembly out a few inches so that the Yoke can
pass by it into the case and be set onto the Shift Lever.

For God's sake, don't drop it into the case - you may have a Hell of a time getting it back !


Once you have the Shaft thru the Yoke, you must push the Gear Shift FORK on the outside bottom of the Case
in so that the hole in the Yoke lines up with the threaded hole in the Shaft - otherwise the bolt will not thread into the Shaft threads...


The Bolt with Blue Threadlock was threaded into the Yoke thru the Shaft and was tightened to 20 ft lbs.

Notice that there is a round "Plug" next to the Shift Shaft and Yoke with a Magnet in it. Why ? ...no idea.

The Gear Shift Interlock Bolt was put in with Blue Threadlock and hand tightened - see the third photo above.

This Bolt keeps the Selector Shaft from going just any old place by riding inside a machined slot
on the Selector Shaft - see first photo above - inside that "Rotating Cage" is a pattern cut into the metal.
Looks like three circles side by side.

The the Bolt rides inside of that slot and the Shift Rod is restricted to that motion only - by the Bolt.

Now......I tried to move the Gear Shift Mechanism by trying to move the Shift Fork at the bottom outside of the case - Ha !

The Gear Shifter inside the vehicle has about a 5 to 1 mechanical advantage when one shifts.
Push the Stick 5 lbs and the Shift Fork gets pushed with 25 lbs...!


I cannot apply enough force by hand to get the gears to shift !

Neutral appears to be the position the Selector is in normally - all forks are lined up.

I turned the Input Shaft (IS) and everything turns - however, if I hold the Countershaft still, the IS still turns,
so the turning is just a form of drag.
i.e. the Transmission is in neutral.

The gear shift pattern will be a mirror image of the shifting pattern one uses inside the vehicle.


Have to figure something out to test what I have rebuilt (a Frankenstein?)

Maybe I will remove the Bolt from the Yoke, take out the Yoke and put a rod (Phillips Head screwdriver)
in the end of the Selector Shaft threaded hole to rotate it into the gears....


03-16-2009, 11:39 PM
I want to TEST this transmission's functioning "on the bench" to make sure all is well.

Taking my functioning transmission out and putting this rebuilt one in without testing it is the
same thing as jumping out of an airplane with a parachute packed by an amateur ! Absurd.

So - I could not get the Gear Shift Control Joint Manual, p 7A - 10 Item #29 to move in and out -
the joint or "fork" that the gear shift lever inside the car is attached to...


I need leverage !

So, I removed the Yoke Bolt and the Gear Shift Interlock Bolt, pulled the Yoke out, then put the Gear Shift Interlock Bolt back in.

Now I can insert a big Phillips Head screwdriver into the Selector Shaft where the Yoke goes on.


By moving the Selector Shaft in and out and twisting the Phillips Head screwdriver, the transmission easily shifts gears ! Leverage !

Now I can turn the Input Shaft and see the results ! Maybe with my 1/2 inch Black & Decker 600 rpm Drill.

Today I am going to obtain some Rubber Stoppers of 33 mm center diameter to plug the Differential Seal holes
so I can put some oil in this bugger...Formula Shell 20W-50 Motor Oil.

Now all I have to do is figure out the gear positions with a screwdriver in the Selector Shaft...

In any case - I had thought that everything inside the case was jammed all to Hell - it isn't !



03-19-2009, 12:28 AM
I decided that there was not much more I could do by worrying about it, so I put the Yoke back in
the way I originally show (previous photo) and torqued it to 20 ft lbs.

I scraped all the old Sealer off the Black Left Case Cover (took quite a while)
and the Transmission Case mating surface,
wire brushed off the bolt threads, applied Grey Sealer and put it back on the Transmission.

The Gear Shift Guide Case mating surface was cleaned (transmission's mating surface cleaned also)
and the Grey Sealer applied sparingly.

I bolted the Gear Shift Guide Case on and then the Left Case Cap over the O - Ring covering the Yoke.

BTW - I used Blue Threadlock on all the Bolts. It turns red when it hardens...

Then, I installed the Reverse Gear Switch - see photo below.

Here it is all done (with rubber stoppers placed in the Differential Oil Seals to keep crap out.
You could use wadded up paper towels for this - I'm a Chemist....Rubber Stoppers are nice.


Here I am, two days later, testing the Transmission with my trusty old B&D 600 rpm half inch drill.


I will have to put the axles in this thing to see what is going on since the only way to see anything is by looking
in the Differential Seal holes - not very amenable to testing....especially "neutral".

The gears change much easier when the Transmission is in this position - the Input and CounterShafts are not vertical
with all that weight on the gears pushing down. Everything turns - no jamming up.

Well - "..That's all folks...!"

When Spring rolls around and I am not teaching, I will change out my old transmission for this "rebuild "
and see if it works...

I'll be back....


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