Smart Junction Box (SJB) Cover


bcsman
02-25-2009, 12:10 PM
Going to installing a remote starter/keyless entry system on my 2006 Taurus soon. I would like to test some wires in the SJB area for continuity and voltage. I tried to remove the plastic cover to get access to the pins by loosening the 10mm bolt holding it on. Unfortunately it started removing the whole connector and I heard a few clicks. Decided to end there and as I tightened the bolt I heard more clicks. Found I had reset the mileage and other entries on my digital odometer. No big deal, but not sure what else reset!! So far no other problems.

Anyhow is there a way to remove the plastic cover without actually loosening the whole connector?? It appears loose, but can't figure out how to unclip it! Probably because I'm just stupid!!

bcsman
02-27-2009, 08:03 AM
No info on this?? Does anyone know if the plastic cover can even be removed or does the whole SJB come out with the bolt?? I can see into where the wires are terminated around the plastic cover, just not handily get in there with my voltmeter to check them!

shorod
02-27-2009, 01:49 PM
Since you're going to be installing a remote start system, you may as well get the AlldataDIY or similar subscription now. You'll likely need it, and there will probably be instructions that show you how to get to the back side of the SJB.

-Rod

bcsman
02-27-2009, 04:43 PM
Don't think I need to get to the backside of the SJB. I have a diagram for the 2006 Taurus showing the pertinent wires and locations on the Taurus. Mostly on wires feeding into the GEM and SJB which I have located. Others are located feeding the ignition switch which I have also located and can access fairly easily taking the drivers kick panel off under the steering wheel. Just trying to find another 12V "hot" wire to hook a third 12V input wire into the remote start control. I'm hooking two wires into the "hot" light green/violet wire feeding the ignition switch, but not sure I should hook a third there. I have considered the "hot" yellow/white wire feeding the headlight switch as I'll have that out anyway. That's why I wanted to access the SJB to probe for another "hot" wire.

I posted about it on this forum a few hours ago explaining my situation.

shorod
02-27-2009, 06:46 PM
Keep in mind that some of the wires for the remote starter can have a pretty significant current draw on them. Check the circuit rating of the remote start and compare that with the circuit rating for the circuits you are tapping in to, as well as what current load they will likely have due to circuits that will be powered during the remote start. If you were to tap in to the wires that are already being used for a normal start event (like a t-harness does) you will be good for the remote start wires. Then you should only need one or two other supplies (alarm module and parking light flash). Your parking light flash would be a good one to pull from the headlight switch.

And of course make sure all your add-on circuits are properly fused.

-Rod

bcsman
02-27-2009, 10:10 PM
shorod,
Exactly what I needed to know!!

The two larger red wires that power the remote start portion of the control are both protected with 20 amp fuses. That obviously totals 40 amps which is what the light green/violet 12V feed wire for the ignition switch is fused at as it runs from the Battery Junction Box. So hopefully I'll be good there. Apparantly some vehicles have two "hot" 12V ignition wires and then they recommend attaching one wire to each. I checked each pin at the ignition switch and there is only one "hot" 12V wire. Actually I'm wrong there-the light green/violet wire splits into 3 wires that feed the ignition switch, but in essence there is only one wire.

The other red input wire for the remote start is the parking light flash which is fused at 3 amp. That is the wire I plan on tapping into the headlight 12V wire, yellow/white, which is rated at 25 amp. That shouldn't upset the applecart I wouldn't think. When arming or unarming the door locks the headlights won't be on when the parking lights flash anyhow.

The way I look at it, when the remote start is functioning the normal start isn't so it shouldn't draw any more amps one way or the other. Same with the other functions--parking light flash, dome light, and horn chirp. This doesn't have an alarm so no siren to run. I think I'll be OK and feel better hearing it from another person here, and I think I read you have done a remote start before. This is my first! I'm not actually going to be doing the start right away, just the keyless functions as I still need to purchase an immobilizer bypass.

Thanks for the insight and help!!

shorod
02-28-2009, 12:40 PM
The way I look at it, when the remote start is functioning the normal start isn't so it shouldn't draw any more amps one way or the other. Same with the other functions--parking light flash, dome light, and horn chirp. This doesn't have an alarm so no siren to run. I think I'll be OK and feel better hearing it from another person here, and I think I read you have done a remote start before. This is my first! I'm not actually going to be doing the start right away, just the keyless functions as I still need to purchase an immobilizer bypass.

Thanks for the insight and help!!

You're correct, as long as the circuits you are tapping in to are the feeds for the same circuit as would be used during a normal start, you won't really be drawing any additional current from the circuits during a remote start, so you should be fine. Make sure though on the high current connections that you have a very good connection. No cheesy little "add a circuit" connections here.

I've done a few remote start installs before for family and friends. They are getting more difficult with modern cars, but still often not worth what the "professionals" charge for the work. Especially since I've seen how some "professionals" make the connections. Don't get me wrong, there are some pros that take pride in their work, but far too many that don't.

-Rod

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