1997 saturn sl won't start

My 1997 Saturn SL1 will not start. It's been at a mechanic for over a week & it still won't start. It gave me trouble starting a couple weeks ago & then one morning it just would not start again. When I turned the key it would turn over but not fire. I tried jumping it with no luck. I brought it to the mechanic & they said they were not getting any spark so they changed a control module & the spark plugs. It started up for them & they drove it for a while & everything was fine.
When I went to pick it up it wouldn't start again. They worked on it all this past week & decided it was a fuel problem. So they changed a fuel sensor & the car started. They let the car sit for a while longer & then it wouldn't start again. So then they decided it was the fuel pump & it fired right up for them. Well they wanted me to let it sit overnight to make sure it was ok starting in the cold. Well I just went to get the car & it won't start again. Now when I tried to start it the motor turns over but will not fire. It sounds like it wants to & it sputers but just won't fire. The only thing that changed before all of my problems is I changed the battery the week before. Does anyone have any ideas?? I'm losing hope fast.

Replace the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor with a brass one. Your stock on is bad. This sensor is VITAL to many subsystems of the car needed to keep it running. Do this FIRST before anything else.

The '97 model has a bad check valve in the fuel pump. What this means is that the fuel rail cannot hold pressure for long periods of time. SO this means that when your go to start your car there is no pressure in the fuel rail, no fuel can get to the cylinders and you cant get the car started

Fix: Put the key in the RUN position for 2 seconds untill your hear the pump ( a humm) stop. Then start the car. You can replace the pump, or you can just put the key in RUN, put yourseat belt on, and then start the car.

If there is no spark, the CPS is BAD. CPS = crankshaft position sensor. 15 bucks at autozone. I can post a video on how to change it yourself. NOTE: a bad CPS is good one minute and BAD the next. There is no "sort of working". They usually also are temperature dependant when they do become faulty.

Here's a strange one for everone. Well I finally have the answer on this one. Well after first changing the cps, control module, & putting in spark plugs. Then still having no luck getting the car to fire on a regular basis.

Then changing the fuel pump because the fuel pressure was erratic & then changing the to a different brand of spark plugs. Then still having no luck getting the car to fire on a regular basis.

I remembered what happened the first time I changed the plugs. I had used bosch & the car was constantly stalling. Well I took it to the dealer where I learned the car is only supposed to use NGK plugs. I relayed this to my mechanic, he changed the plugs to NGK & the car runs like new again. My mechanic has never seen this before & is amazed.

I remembered what happened the first time I changed the plugs. I had used bosch & the car was constantly stalling. Well I took it to the dealer where I learned the car is only supposed to use NGK plugs. I relayed this to my mechanic, he changed the plugs to NGK & the car runs like new again. My mechanic has never seen this before & is amazed.

This is a common problem in the s-series. This model uses a waste spark ignition system, and although those iridium/platinum plugs are great and have a good spark, the compound wears much faster than plain copper plugs. Thus cause no start situations or misfires

The biggest issue with taking a saturn to a mechanic is that they have perks that only people like Rc, myself (people who could be saturn techs but just aren't) and saturn mechanics know. If you do not know of something like the bad fuel pumps you will get no where with these cars. A garage mechanic will dump your money and time in the drain for something as simple as a ECT. Before consulting a mechanic I would ask someone who knows what they are talking about. And then if you feel like you cannot do the job yourself then take it to another mechanic.

that is the main reason of why I tell people if you are not going to do the work yourself, take it to the people who specialize in that particular vehicle so you do not waste time and money. Unlike a garage mechanic, they will not throw parts at the car.

This is a common problem in the s-series. This model uses a waste spark ignition system, and although those iridium/platinum plugs are great and have a good spark, the compound wears much faster than plain copper plugs. Thus cause no start situations or misfires

+1 and the ngk copper plugs are cheaper then all those listed as well. Its a win win situation. NGk makes one of the best if not the best plug on the market. Of course depending on the vehicle. Just because your blazer may take platinum plugs does not mean your camry should too. You know what I mean.

I've been running the delco plugs ever since my 97' was new and it works great. AC plugs were in there from the factory. Only ngk plugs recommended in a GM car? I would double check that. However, NGK does make a terrific plug.

I've been running the delco plugs ever since my 97' was new and it works great. AC plugs were in there from the factory. Only ngk plugs recommended in a GM car? I would double check that. However, NGK does make a terrific plug.

NGK are from the factory and are listed as the proper part for replacement

NGK are from the factory and are listed as the proper part for replacement


hmmm..well my 97' came with AC Delcos from the factory because I removed the factory set myself. I still have'em.

Here is the specs from my owner's manual where only AC plugs are recommended.

AC 41-628 for SOHC

AC 41-627 for DOHC

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Did you finally get it started? I have a starting problem with mine too , except it starts fine and runs great, but when you shut it off it wont start, I too have a good starter, battery, Alt., full coolant and oil, fuses are good. If it sits for an hour or two it starts right back up..... cant find a reason it does this.... wierd... think the car has a mind of its own....

Your's sounds like a crank position sensor. The CKP is located on the lower rear of the engine so the vehicle will have to be raised to access it. CHECK OPERATORS MANUAL FOR PROPER LIFTING PROCEDURES FOR YOUR VEHICLE FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN INJURY OR DEATH.

The dis-connect the electrical connector from the sensor. Measure the resistance on the CKP. Should be 700-900 ohms.

For what it's worth, years ago i put 4 new Champions in an engine. It wouldn't fire on those plugs, but the old ones worked. I put 2 new Champions in an outboard motor, those wouldn't fire either. I now use the factory recommended ones, and have yet to have a similar fault.

Your's sounds like a crank position sensor. The CKP is located on the lower rear of the engine so the vehicle will have to be raised to access it. CHECK OPERATORS MANUAL FOR PROPER LIFTING PROCEDURES FOR YOUR VEHICLE FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN INJURY OR DEATH.

The dis-connect the electrical connector from the sensor. Measure the resistance on the CKP. Should be 700-900 ohms.
Im pretty sure that you have to remove the starter to get at the crank sensor

It will make it alot easier to remove the starter but its not necessary. It will save a bit of time and pains, but its possible to get the work done without pulling the starter.

I thought I had fuel problems. I changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor, Idle Air Control Valve and the PCV valve and it fixed my problem.