95 Village cranks over but no start

Van died while on the Freeway and had to be towed home.
Checked the following:
-The fuel pressure measured at 40psi.
-All cylinders compression measured between 150 to 157psi.
-Fuel is present after removing each of the six spark plugs for compression testing.
-Checked cylinder #1 on compression stroke and the distributor rotor lines up at the #1 distributor post confirming not a jumped or broken timing belt.
-Checked code in the PCM using the MIL > code 55 - system normal
-MAF and TPS checks according to the Haynes repair manual
-Removed Distributor and checked the spark plugs are firing (KOEO)
-Cracked the exhaust pipe in front of the Cat Converter > can hear air exhaust during cranking.
- CMP signal varies between 0 and 2.5V.

Still doesnt' start. Any clues?

From what I see in the FSM is that the CMP should be 0 to 5.0V with distributor removed and CMP connector still attached and turning distrubtor slowly. Possible ECM problem.

Here is a link for the Factory Service Manual if you do not have:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

Scroll down to Quest and choose year.

Go to section EF&EC page 163. Shows procedured for no start which you have pretty much done but should be helpful.

Have you looked at the CMP in the distrubtor to see if it has any dust on it?
How does the distributor bearing look or does it feel rough?

Have you checked the ASD relay in the fuse box under the hood. Try switching relay with same number relay.

Have you tried reseting the Inertia fuel shutof switch located below the hood latch near the door frame?

Keep us posted as I am very interested in the fix.

After more reading I am more inclined that the CMP has failed, bad part is that you have to replace complete distributor.

Sending you a PM also.

Thanks for the link! It's very informative.

The Inertia Fuel cut off switch was not tripped.
I've removed the CMP cover on the distributor and it did not look dirty. The screws holding down the sensor were epoxied so the sensor cannot be removed easily. The Distributor was changed about 90k miles ago (currently has 189k miles) when the van ran but had no pickup power going onto the freeway. I blew the CMP senor area w/ compressed air. The Distributor bearing feels tight and smooth. Put everything back together, cranked the engine over and heard a couple of pop from the igniting fuel mixture and then it stop firing so no start.

I'll replace the distributor today and see what happens.
What's the ASD relay?

Got the re-manufactured distributor, hooked up to check the CMP sensor. 0 to 5V pulses is obtained for the 120 degree and the 1 degree disk slots. With the KeyOnEngineOff, the fuel injector can be heard clicking and with the distributor coil wire sparking at every 120 degree slot. The distributor was installed insuring the rotor was aligned with the #1 plug wire on the distributor and at TDC.

Turned over and explosion can be heard for about two seconds and died again. Checked all the fuses from the fusible links and they are good. Checked all the voltages at the ECM connector (connected) according to the EF&EC-160 and 161 pin out that had "Ignition switch 'ON'" and all the voltages are within spec. The voltages with "Engine Running" were not measured since it wouldn't start.

Since it's a '95, it does not have OBDII. The van does have a Nissan Consult port. May need to take it into the Dealer to check it out.

Have you checked the coil and power transmiter?

Have you checked the ignition switch?

Have you double checked the timing belt to make sure it did not jump a few teeth?

Sent you a PM also.

Checked the ignition coil > ok
Checked the Power Transistor (aka Ignition control module at Pepboys) > ok
Checked ignition switch > ok

Dis-assembled the front crankshaft pulley to check the timing marks, and found the crankshaft is broken.
Know any place for an inexpensive crankshaft?

That sucks. Rockauto.com hasd one for $286.00, thats the crankshaft kit for a 96 with the thicker snout. The 95 and older cranks have a smaller snout and are prone to break because of overtightening the drive belts and improper timing belt installment.

Check online site like napaonline.com, oriellys.com etc. Check on crairglist maybe some has a villager for parts. Salvage yard.

Here is a link to a Nissan auto parts store:
http://www.feltonautoparts.com/asp/parts/inventory.asp

good luck and let us know how it goes.

I've measured the crankshaft snout and it's the small diameter, 0.984".
If I want to change it to the large snout, don't I have to change the crankshaft sprocket for the timing belt and the crankshaft pulley?

I have tried looking in the online auto sites but they do not have the sprocket. I would imagine that you would have to being the shaft size is bigger but the overall circumference should be the same. You may also need a different harmonic balancer. Not sure if you need a lower timing belt cover, seal for a 96 crank maybe the only part you need on the cover.
I would contact a Mercury or Quest dealer parts person they should be able to answer these questions for you.

Here is a link with photos that a guy took removing the engine from the top and installing a 96-98 crankshaft into a 95.

http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/photos/browse/472b (http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/photos/browse/472b)

I am going to send you a PM.
Hope this helps

Finally got the engine out of the minivan and pulled out the broken snout crankshaft. The main and rod bearings still looked shiny, and hardly any scratches. Synthetic oil is awesome! Anyways, when I was cleaning the oil passage holes on the replacement crankshaft (ordered from back East), I've noticed that all the oil gallery plugs were missing in the crankshaft. I've compared the old and the new crankshaft and they are definitely missing on the replacement crank. Anyone know why the machine shop would remove these plugs when regrinding a crankshaft? and are they replaced?

It has been quite some time since I looked at a crankshaft, so I am not sure where you are speaking of. Would it be possible for you too post some pics of the old and new crank showing the plugs you are referring to??

Where did you get the crank? Is it a reputable name? You may want to contact them with your question.

Here are some pictures with the crankshafts side-by-side. I've notified RockAuto about the discrepancy and their reply was the holes are for counter weight drill outs to balance the crankshaft. I've blew compressed air through these holes and the air comes out of the crankshaft journal oil holes. Tried to send contact by email for 3 days and no response. I'm thinking of ordering a 6mm aluminum rod and silver solder the plugs in.

How do you attach pics in these forums?
Looks like this only allows a link to be added to reference to another site for pics.

Go to www.photobucket.com (http://www.photobucket.com) to put the pics on here.

I would not solder them like you are speaking of, that more than likely would throw the crank completely out of balance plusother issues.

I would call the main office and demand to speak to president of the company, as they have supplied you with a faulty crank. Whom is the crankshaft warrantied by?? What's the brand name of the rebuilt crank?? Try contacting them.

I've returned the Crankshaft and got a replacement crank. Wouldn't you know it, the same problem with the second crank. :banghead:

I've put a webpage with photos at this site to show the orig and replacement cranks: http://www.vantagecrest.com/ben/

I've called up the local crankshaft shop and they say the non-journal oil passage plugs are normally not removed during the cleaning process. I'm not sure why these cranks came w/o the plugs.

Thanks for posting pics. Do you mind stating the vender of the crank, is a gopher rebuilt crank or a name brand like that??

You would think that the vender would make sure that the plugs were in place. I don't understand why they would remove plugs but not replace. I would be quite upset also and demand a explanation from the vender that does the work.

The Crankshaft came from Marshall Engines in NE. I've got a call from them stating that the crank is shipped that way with four ball bearings to plug up the oil passages after the receiver cleans out the protective coating. If they install the ball bearings as plugs, then they would have a chance to rust behind the ball - this is their thinking.
However, there were no ball bearings in the box the crank was shipped in, and there weren't any instructions to do this task; that's why I was confused.:screwy:
Bottom line is they are shipping out the ball bearings to me to put them in. Hope they are the correct ones - stay tuned.

mechatronic,

How is your project coming along??

Question for you about broken crank. How did you determine that the crankshaft was broke?? Were you able to move the harmonic balancer when the crank was broke or did you have to remove balancer and timing cover to determine if it was broke?? The reason I am asking there is another fellow on a diferent forum that is trying to fiqure out if his crank is broke. ANy thing you can tells us would be greatly appreciated.

The drive belts has to be off of the harmonic balancer, so they need to be removed. The Harmonic balancer to Crankshaft bolt must be removed, and if the crankshaft is broken, the Harmonic balancer will fall forward into your hand.

As of the project, still putting the engine back together with the limited time. The crankshaft was finally cleaned and the ball bearing installed. The ball bearings had to be frozen in the freezer before they will go in easily. The main and rod bearings measure between 0.0015" to 0.002", the spec is 0.0011" to 0.0022".

Finally got the engine back together and into the vehicle. Now the engine just cuts out when its warming up, and runs fine after warming up to normal operating temperature.

Checked the fuel pressure at idle > 34 psi, detached vacuum hose to the fuel regulator and pressure = 44psi. Observed engine dying and the fuel pressure is at 34psi. After the engine dies, can hear the fuel pump running for another few seconds. Vacuum gage steady at 20.5 inches of vacuum.

Checked the compression after warming up the engine, all cylinders are in the range of 180 to 185 psi.
Insured that there were no dust corrosion in the distribution timing plate.

Checked the IAC-AAC valve per the manual > ok.
Checked the IAC-FICD solenoid valve > ok.
Checked the IAC valve - air regulator > ok.

Not sure what else to check. :jerking:

Oil pressure light flickers at idle also.

Finally figured out the remanufactured distributor was at fault. It was one of those lifetime warranty distributor from pboys. They exchanged w/o any issues. Van is running and not stalling out. Now if the oil pressure light can be resolved, then the van can keep on trucking...