96 Windstar Fan Module change

Changed the Fan relay Module; For a air con. clutch inop
The rad fans would not come on; so I disconected the temp senser at back of Eng;Now Rad High Speed Fans are on continuos. Car runs cold or 1/4 range; Maybe the Module is bad;Yes --No cost 100 dollars at Autozone,I took that one back they give me another;same Prob;Thinking about a trip to salvage Yard;

If you re-connect the temp. sensor do the fans turn off until the engine reaches operating temp. ?

If your temp gage is in the lower, ( 1/4) of the gage it sounds like your thermostat is stuck open.

When you say "Fan relay module" do you mean Constant Control Module ?

It's not clear to me if you solved the ac clutch problem or the fan not coming on with the ac is the problem. Is the AC clutch not engaging? You may have a bad high pressure cutout/fan switch on the AC system, located by, behind the compressor. This will prevent the clutch from engaging when the system is WAY too high, and it will engage the high speed fans when the pressure gets above around 225 psi or higher. If you have both problems, then they could be related by this switch. It is expensive but can be removed and replaced without depressurizing the system as there is a check inside the connection.

Do you get any low speed fans at any time? If never, ie. hot engine or ac on, you may have a burned out cooling fan dropping resistor, ie. open so no power and continuity. This is located straight down, behind the right headlight, mounted on the unibody frame. It is a white, ceramic U-shaped component with black/orange and brown/orange wires to it. If you jumpered it briefly when the fan is supposed to be on at low speed, like the ac on, and the fan comes on, then it's bad. I think it should have about 3 ohms of resistance.

If that isn't the problem, more detail as to when the fan does and doesn't come on would be very helpful. Since the fans do come on when you disconnect the temp sensor like you did, the fan module, CCRM, or relay, may not be the problem. Had it not come on, it would have been possible that one of the three relays inside was bad. Having tried two different new ones does help rule things out there. If the fan is not coming on when the engine gets hot enough, then the temp sensor you disconnected the wiring from to get the fans to run is probably bad, or the wiring to it. It's called the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. Get the brass not the plastic body sensor. Heard lots of problems with the plastic, and the brass isn't too costly. If these don't get it......I hope it's not the PCM.

Here is a link to a picture of my radiator fan dropping resistor....on my '96....the resistor is marked with a " * "
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2458774470011220610ybouky

The picture before it shows the electrical connector for it....and the 2 pictures after show more detail of the resistor.

When you have the controls set to any setting that cycles the A/C on (includes defrost setting), the radiator fans should come on and STAY on when the vehicle is not moving a minimum speed.

HOWEVER, if it is cold enough outside....the A/C will NOT cycle on...and the fans will not come on......not a problem.
The A/C will not cycle on if there is not a given pressure differential.....which seems to vary based upon outside temperature (and maybe system charge?).....but keeps the evaporator coils from freezing over (ice)......

Last winter, my A/C did not cycle on/off at temperatures that it did before...and does again now......don't know why...but it tells me that it could vary from one vehicle to the next?
They say in the alldatadiy information that the magic number is 45 to 50 degrees (F), mine operates lower than that.
The A/C Cycling switch controls the ON/OFF of the A/C (in conjuction with the PCM.

The A/C cycling switch is located on the Accumulator, aka dryer....the big canistor that is mounted near the firewall on the passenger side.
The high pressure cutoff switch is located close by.....in a refrigerant line.
Here is a link that shows both the A/C cycling switch and the high pressure cutoff switch.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2077761460011220610tpjsMq

Cycling switch P/N F5VY193561A, list price $19
Pressure cuttoff switch P/N F58Z19D594Z, list price $45

Radiator Fan Dropping Resistor....alldatadiy does not list a part number or price.



The radiator fan dropping resistor is not expensive...and is easy to change.
Personally, I suspect that this part has contributed to transmission failure....as having the fans running in hot weather in stop and go traffic keeps the transmission MUCH cooler.....particularly with a auxiallary cooler.

Isn't there also a speed sensor from the trans to the PCM that is also involved with switching fans on/off. Turns off the fans if vehicle is moving above a certain speed?

It just occurred to me that my fan issues began right after I had AAMCO repair my trans. I wonder if the speed signal is not making it to the PCM and hence it thinks I am always moving fast. My fans never turn on under any circumstance. Will check this weekend.

With the A/C ON, the fans will run at low speed when the vehicle is moving below about 43mph.

The information for my '96 also states that the fans will be ON when the A/C compressor is engaged....does not mention what fan speed.

They come on at High speed if the A/C compressor output pressure gets up to 285-315 psi

Note that the High pressure cutoff switch in the A/C line has 2 sets of contacts.....one set activates the radiator fans as above....the other set causes the A/C compressor to disengage when the output pressure reaches 415-445 psi.

Otherwise, the radiator fans come on at low speed when the motor reaches about 215 (F) and come on at HIGH speed when the motor temperature reaches about 230 (F).