Would A Bad Ball Joint Cause

your car to make clunking noises? and how important is it to get fixed? like do i need to get it fixed ASAP?

i keep hearing clunking noises in the back right hand side of my car...i went to the mechanic to see if it had anything with the fact that i just had new shocks installed...told me i had a broken hanger on my flowmasters..took it to the muffler shop..they replaced both of my hangers and put on a new collector gasket...still have the clunking noise and its worrying me...they told me its possible it could be a bad ball joint

nobody is telling me WHAT it is..only what it MIGHT be :frown:

your car to make clunking noises? and how important is it to get fixed? like do i need to get it fixed ASAP?

i keep hearing clunking noises in the back right hand side of my car...i went to the mechanic to see if it had anything with the fact that i just had new shocks installed...told me i had a broken hanger on my flowmasters..took it to the muffler shop..they replaced both of my hangers and put on a new collector gasket...still have the clunking noise and its worrying me...they told me its possible it could be a bad ball joint

nobody is telling me WHAT it is..only what it MIGHT be :frown:

Time to find another repair shop.
The mechanic should take your car for a test ride to determine what is going on.
Anyone can guess, sounds like these guys are lazy or do not want your business.

It does sound like your exhaust might be hitting somewhere, very easy to determine.
Front end noise would probably be coming from, you guessed it, the front of the car..

Good luck

Al :smokin:

You have an axle back there, so no ball joints are used. I'd definitely suspect the shock bushings or the bolts. They may not be correct diameter, leading to endplay. Or they aren't tighened to spec. Or shock cylinders are a different diameter than the originals so are rubbing against a sway bar. Hope this helps!

Agreed with the above. It can't hurt to have the ball joints checked just due to what can happen should one fail. If they are indeed clunking, their time is marked.

At a low speed, the tire can 'pretzel inward' or the car can dig a trench in the asphalt, depending on whether it's the upper or lower respectively. An at-speed failure can be catastrophic.

You could have a worn out control arm bushing on the differential somewhere and this could be causing the clunk.

Problem Solved...took It To Meineke..it Was My Uv Joints...got Them Both Replaced For $215...:(

your car to make clunking noises? and how important is it to get fixed? like do i need to get it fixed ASAP?

i keep hearing clunking noises in the back right hand side of my car...i went to the mechanic to see if it had anything with the fact that i just had new shocks installed...told me i had a broken hanger on my flowmasters..took it to the muffler shop..they replaced both of my hangers and put on a new collector gasket...still have the clunking noise and its worrying me...they told me its possible it could be a bad ball joint

nobody is telling me WHAT it is..only what it MIGHT be :frown:

when your vehicle is put on a lift the frame is lifted not the wheels this is a good reason why they can't find the problem..

which all gets to incompetent repairers....this is a widespread problem getting the skilled auto repairer to repair your vehicle properly..

one way to force this is when they guess tell them you want it in writting that this will stop this noise or its free...

Problem Solved...took It To Meineke..it Was My Uv Joints...got Them Both Replaced For $215...:(

hopefully this will stop the clunking...normally you will get vibration and a large clunk when changing from park to drive/reverse...as well as squeeking sounds....when these fail....

when you get your oil changed don't forget to have them grease those drive shaft U joints,,,the new ones will have grease fittings...

So They Wont Have To Grease The New Ones I Had Put On Yesterday Right?

And I Would Hear A Clunk Also When Switching Gears..but It Would Only Happen When Im On A Hill Or Any Type Of Incline

So They Wont Have To Grease The New Ones I Had Put On Yesterday Right?

And I Would Hear A Clunk Also When Switching Gears..but It Would Only Happen When Im On A Hill Or Any Type Of Incline

yes the new U joints need to be greased at oil change time...then they will last forever...

if you are parked on a hill and put into drive from park you will hear a clunk....but if you are level ground you should not hear that noise...

if your idle is too high this will cause this noise also ..idle should be 650-700rpm....

when driving in drive you should not hear clunking are you still hearing the clunk sounds when driving?

yes the new U joints need to be greased at oil change time...then they will last forever...

if you are parked on a hill and put into drive from park you will hear a clunk....but if you are level ground you should not hear that noise...

if your idle is too high this will cause this noise also ..idle should be 650-700rpm....

when driving in drive you should not hear clunking are you still hearing the clunk sounds when driving?

Speaking of that clunking..if its really cold and my car hasn't warmed up it'll be revving so high that when i shift (very rarely however) i hear the gears scrape as it dumps into drive or reverse...not a nice sound to hear

oh yea it only clunks on an incline..however i do think my idle is a little high and my carb is off bc my car is INHALING gas..but im going to get that fixed in the AM...not to mention i need to replace some spark plugs and get a tune up lol...just so busy with school dont have time to do everything on time like im supposed to

oh yea it only clunks on an incline..however i do think my idle is a little high and my carb is off bc my car is INHALING gas..but im going to get that fixed in the AM...not to mention i need to replace some spark plugs and get a tune up lol...just so busy with school dont have time to do everything on time like im supposed to


a high idle will damage the U joints as well as the transmission....you may also find that the brakes wear at a faster rate...

ok i got my carb fixed this AM...the guy i take my car to just stuck some type of tool into the side of the carb and twisted..so im guessing he took my idle down

but the last time my idle was high and i watched the person fix the carb it seemed like it took longer for the fix to happen..and this fix happened in about 10 mins

jcat where are you located? u know so much about cars seems like lol

ok i got my carb fixed this AM...the guy i take my car to just stuck some type of tool into the side of the carb and twisted..so im guessing he took my idle down

but the last time my idle was high and i watched the person fix the carb it seemed like it took longer for the fix to happen..and this fix happened in about 10 mins

jcat where are you located? u know so much about cars seems like lol

the reason I have good knowledge about this era of vehicles is because in 1983 I bought one new..then 17yrs and 380,000mi later sold it for 1700.oo...not bad..I never had any work done by the pro's...since I have a mechanical background and electrical/electronic training/schools..

I still have a 1984 305 chev with the carb same as yours,, so its still working and needs attention as most carbs are problematic...you will find it very difficult to get this repaired because fewer mechanics are skilled in carb's ..also the adjustments are critical if you want it to operate correctly..

having the spec's for your vehicle to adjust this correctly would be a surprise...

I would think that a young woman like you should have a newer vehicle, and this then would make it easier to get repairs done...unless you wanna be a mechanic..I have worked will several females that did choose this type work...

In massachusetts where I live these cars are rare as the winter destroys them...most owners use them only when the salt/chemicals for snow are long gone...they do give a good ride quality and are stronger than the new vehicles, but when gas goes to 4.oo+++ /gal you gotta have a more effecient vehicle for daily use, and reliablity....

i just have a thing for the older bodied style cars...and the material and quality they were made with..my car is like a tank lol..says alot when your car can last 20+ yrs...

not to mention the parts are cheaper...and i have no problem with getting my hands dirty at all..i like to know what exactly is going on just in case it happens again...

... 17yrs and 380,000mi later sold it for 1700.oo...

Only 380K and you GAVE it away for $1700? You could have at least waited until it was broken in.

Like you and many others here, my first cars were all carbureted (probably because there were only about four injected cars in the world) and I did just fine with that. Further, a 1982 is likely to have fewer frills and gadgets, a.k.a. those things which seem to break faster than the basic motive parts of the vehicle. It may not be a bad choice at all.

Only 380K and you GAVE it away for $1700? You could have at least waited until it was broken in.

Like you and many others here, my first cars were all carbureted (probably because there were only about four injected cars in the world) and I did just fine with that. Further, a 1982 is likely to have fewer frills and gadgets, a.k.a. those things which seem to break faster than the basic motive parts of the vehicle. It may not be a bad choice at all.

the one thing I miss about that vehicle is the very comfortable seats...it was like a high quality sofa...I got the best seats when I ordered it..

I don't miss the carb ,,,especially in winter...with ice on the road and the vehicle still warming it can be dangerous...

your car to make clunking noises?


No.

The left front wheel of my Dodge RAM 3500 Van hat free play of nearly two inches due to the worn ball joint and you did't hear it.

and how important is it to get fixed?

Depends on the car.

Said van handled EXACTLY the same before and after the repair, so I shouldn't have bothered :naughty:

But if my car made clunky clunky noises I should have a look asap, yes.

the lower ball joints are usully the ones that go because thats where the load is on and the top ones have rivets you have to shear off with air hammer and when replaced they give you the bolts to put them back together you can rent a press at auto zone for bottom ball joints i would take a look at upper control arm bushings also i've replaced alot of those in my day's. good luck..