For about 6 months now my 2000 Isuzu rodeo has had inconsistent troubles with starting. When turning the key it sometimes sounds like it's going to start but doesn't actually turn-over. It isn't consistent with how long it sits or the tempurature. It either starts right up or takes anywhere from 3-10 turns of the key to start. Every time I take it to the mechanic he can't get it to act up. So, here I am. I can't figure out what the problem is and would like to get it fixed before it has to be towed. I did put in a new battery and that didn't fix the problem. Thanks for any help/suggestions.

Are there any clicking sounds when this occurs??

Could be the starter going bad; bad fuel filter; clogged injector; bad spark plugs

Fuel pressure regulator?

No clicking noise. And I will those items on the list to be checked. Thank you.

Not sure, I'll also put that on the list to be checked. I'm definitely not the mechanic, so I'll actually have to drop it off for him to check out all of these items for me. Thanks for your help.

kjs...let me know what you found...my 2000 Amigo is doing the same thing. I've been trying to figure this out for about 2 yrs now. On a cold start, it'll usually (about 80% of the time) take about 3 cranks to start, but it'll usually start up right away if the engine is still warm. I'm guessing this is the reason your mechanic can't get it to act up, since your car is warmed up?

I've already changed the spark plugs, battery, fuel filter, EGR, and fuel pressure regulator. My fuel pump does seem to work (when I turn the key, but not start the car...I can hear the hum of the pump) but my guess is that it may be on its last leg...and therefore causing the bad starts? Any input on that would be great. If it's the fuel pump, then I'll have to fight with the dealership to replace it since i'm still under warranty (gotta love that 10yr warranty). Not looking forward to this, since my dealership removed the isuzu brand (due to the pullout I'm guessing), and have gone upscale now (european imports), and doesn't treat us zoo owners well.

Heyyy there

I'm a happy camper. I had the same problem and solved it.

I've been having the EGR error # P0405 for years and after my mechanic replaced the fuel pump about 6 months ago the code P0452 (Evaporative emission system pressure sensor low) joined the club.

I tought that my mechanic left some hose loose or the pressure sensor connector at the tank.

I did no try to do anything because to get to those hoses and cables is imposible without taken the fuel tank down.

Anyway, since a month ago my rodeo 99 3.2 was giving me problems at start. couriosly when cold it was doing fine, when hot I had to try twice or 3 times.

I visited my mechanic and told him about the codes and he said the next step would be to replaced the EGR (about $200 plus labor).

I went under the tank and inspected everything and it looked ok.

I was trying to find the fuel hoses at the engine but did not find them.

Then I found something that says Evap test port, followed those lines and one of those is the PCV valve which I pulled and came out too easy, the "gasket" was kind of melted so it was not making a full seal, leaking vacuum.

I reseated it and the codes cleared inmediately, it started at the first try being warm.

went to Advanced Auto Parts and got one of those for $12 dollars.

thanks fito for responding...I actually changed my pcv right after I made my orignial post...still having starting issues....the weird thing is that it always takes two starts or cranks. The first one no matter how long you drag it out won't go, and then the second will crank up immediately or shortly after. My new guess might be the intake manifold gasket....but I'm not really having idling issues. Still searching....

thanks fito for responding...I actually changed my pcv right after I made my orignial post...still having starting issues....the weird thing is that it always takes two starts or cranks. The first one no matter how long you drag it out won't go, and then the second will crank up immediately or shortly after. My new guess might be the intake manifold gasket....but I'm not really having idling issues. Still searching....

Hey Milton

I remember that I had that problem before and I used to turn the key to acc and wait about 5 seconds till the noise of the fuel pump stops, after that crank it. This made it start most of the time, that way you do not stress too much the starter and battery.

How old is the fuel pump, does it hum all the time even the car running?
My old fuel pump used to hum all the time and people asked me "what is tha noise?" and I use to respond "Ahh is the Turbo". It was like that for almost a year.

Also try the Lucas fuel treatment once in a while.

Fito,
my pump will hum for about 5 seconds like you said and then turn off. A friend also suggested I let it hum, then start it up after the hum stops (there's usually a click after this)....it doesn't seem to matter...most of the time it'll still take 2 cranks to start. I've never changed the pump (its the original...i'm the only owner), probably should have changed it the last time I dropped the tank to fix the fuel gauge problem (that was a pain), but techniquely i'm still under warranty for that. The 10yr/120k covers the pump, but like I said before...I don't wanna go to the dealership unless I have to b/c I have to really dig in to fight to get something fixed under warranty