EK Civic with SiR conversion and K20

01-10-2009, 02:02 AM
Wow, has it been a long time since I've started a WIP thread, and even longer since a completed thread!

Not a ton has been done on this, though I've been getting behind the bench on this one since March. Still, I decided it was about time to start a thread on it. This is to be the culmination of all my skills to this point, so I'll be doing a lot of scratchbuilding, resin casting, specialized painting, and detail work. I'm really pushing my limits on this one, because that's the only way I'll get better, and because I feel like there should be more high detail Civic models out there.

No, this is not a Ferrari. Or a super car. Or anything with a multimedia superdetail transkit for. Or even a model specific photo etch set. It's just a Civic. So, let's get started.


I've started with the Fujimi 1996 Civic SiR II. I started with this kit for a few reasons. I have a 1996 Civic, and love the dealer option square foglamps that fit the '96-'98 cars. The black rubber rub strips on the front and rear bumpers of the SiRs looks so different and cool, I had to have them in model form (I admit, I'm making a model of my dream 1:1). And really, to make a high fidelity model, I couldn't make a '99-'00 model year car, because while Fujimi changed the front bumper to match those model years on these kits, they did not change the shape of the headlights, hood and grill to match the facelift of the later years of this body style. So I didn't have much choice.



I opened the hood and then went crazy. I modified the hood with all the bracing underneath and some hinge approximations so that it would open and close nicely. It's going to be a body color painted carbon fiber hood, so the underneath will be CF decalled, while the top will be painted. I also build a new cowl (without those infernal square venting on them), the firewall, the strut towers, the radiator support, and the back of the headlamp buckets. As I go along, I'll of course add details like the master cylinders and things, but I also intend to plumb the brakes, including the proportioning valves and wire it including pretty much the whole wiring harness and all that good stuff. Big things I'll add also include a Password JDM (PWJDM) triangulated strut tower bar, carbon fiber power chamber intake and some other status equipment goodies. This model has a long way to go...




While I was at it, I cut the cargo cover out of the interior bucket, and gave the same treatment to the rear end. I added strip styrene to the floor and sides of the trunk area, the strut towers, and made the unit body stampings for the sides. I also made the seat back, which is a separate piece to facilitate painting; the flat part will be painted a orangish foam color, while the part over it with the holes will be semigloss black. More chassis stiffening here, too, modeling more PWJDM parts and some EM racing parts. Also, an Odyssey batter will be mounted flat to the floor in the spare tire area.



The interior is getting some love, too. I already scratched up new door panels since Fujimi's interior bucket lacks any detail at all. While not perfect, I think they serve. These were also made in multiple pieces for ease of painting. I'm casting up copes of these for other Civics, too, since this is a huge deficiency in these kits and since I can't stop making Civics, I want plenty of them.



There's an odd error in these Fujimi kits. All the Civic dashboards are molded after the '99 model year facelift dashes. For a '96, these are all wrong. The double DIN video screen is completely wrong for anything in the USA and most everything in Japan, too. And the '96 cars have the HVAC under a single DIN radio slot and pocket, instead of the HVAC on both sides of the radio, so I had to make this right. I just deleted the radio, since in my 1:1 I moved the radio to the accessory DIN slot above the cupholders. I also had to modify where the power outlet is, since US cars didn't have the ashtray and lighter like their Japanese counterparts. I also filled the clock indent on the top of the dash, and added an airbag delete tray which will be carbon fiber, as PWJDM sells.



A couple overall shots with the body off and on...


I'm struggling on the wheels, but I like these. I think they're Aoshima Buddy Club P1s or something. I don't really know, and don't know if they'll be what I use in the end. The tires, though, will be Falken Azenis, which I am making by having cast a rubber slick from a Fujimi racing Integra kit in resin and carving out the tread. I'll do this once, and cast them. Any ideas for lettering on the side? unfortunately, PE is still out of my range, or I'd make lettering in PE and cast it all together into a sweet tire model.



The engine block is a cast resin copy of the Sakatsu F20C white metal transkit parts. The F20 and the K20 are very similar in appearance and in size, so this works well. The valve cover is, of course, much different. This is my fourth attempt, and I'm only halfway through it. This one, though, I think will stick. The radiator is made from the radiators from two Fujimi Integras, sanded thin, glued back to back, with top and bottom tanks added, a modified Detail Master electric fan, and various PE details. The welds are PE welds for 1:35 armour models, it pays to walk around your LHS sometimes! It's modeled after a Koyo aluminum radiator for an RSX, which is common among K20 swapped EKs.

Anyway, that's that, and sorry for the poor picture quality. It's been a long time since I posted one of these! I hope this was entertaining at least, and if you have any questions please ask, and any criticisms, tips, ideas, suggestions are welcome. Thanks for looking!

01-10-2009, 03:38 AM
Amazing detail. Love your work so far. Will keep an eye on this interesting build.

01-10-2009, 04:59 AM
nice thread, i'll keep on eye on this wip..so far so good

01-10-2009, 07:49 AM
This is going to be a very interesting project. Your attention to detail is amazing, keep up to excellent work :)

01-10-2009, 08:18 AM
Will, excellently ambitious project you've got there, and your progress so far is outstanding. What are the plans for the body? And will the luggage compartment details be visible after completion?

01-10-2009, 02:16 PM
Very good work so far! I'll keep an eye on this one for sure.

01-10-2009, 09:26 PM
This looks good, I used to be really into the turners in the 1:1 world, so I will be looking to see how this one progresses.

You are off to a heck of a start!


01-10-2009, 10:33 PM
Looks like this will be a fantastic (but ambitious!) project. Off to a great start, it will be fun to watch where you go with it!

And there is nothing wrong with 'just a Civic'. A 'simple' Civic built with skill and passion more than beats another cookie cutter Ferrari.

01-10-2009, 11:03 PM
Sick! Love Civics!

01-10-2009, 11:38 PM
Wow! it's willimo version superdetailed 2.0:iceslolan
I got giddy when you mentioned brake line plumbing.
This is going to the baddest civic!

Love the drivetrain swap and all the mad tyte JDM goodies, but I wish it was EG. That EK just doesn't have the personality of the EG.
What do I know I'm a Nissan guy:screwy:

01-11-2009, 12:36 AM
Awesome build! I've been wanting to make azenis for a while now, so if you end up casting extra sets please let me know. What I was thinking of was making a hard mold and engraving the negative of the lettering into it, then using some kind of silicone for the tire... but I doubt I could engrave that amount of detail into a mold, which ultimately stopped me from even trying.

01-11-2009, 12:43 AM
You know what I would say but since it goes without saying, :sunglasse

bri g
01-11-2009, 10:06 AM
wow this is my dream project as well! going to keep an eye out on this. the scratched engine bay looks spot on! how's the height of the k20?

01-11-2009, 07:36 PM
what? scratchbuilding the thread for the azenis? crazy! but i love it!

01-11-2009, 11:22 PM
Excellent work so far, I'm really impressed with your determination and passion on this one. I love the trunk area, talk about realism.

01-12-2009, 04:02 AM
WTG, Will :thumbsup:

VERY detailed project you have on the go here. I'm looking forward to following along and learning some stuff I didn't know before.

For the lettering on the side as you said, PE is the obvious route. AFIK there are p/e letters available in eg 1/35 armor stores and shipbuilding stores - maybe you could use these?

As for logos etc., I would have thought that a scaled-down logo printed in card, cut out by hand or plotter and glued onto the resin master would perhaps give enough height for it to be visible on the resin casts? Just thinking out loud here... :)

01-12-2009, 08:33 PM
Thanks very much guys, for the kind words! I look up to all of you and it's nice to hear that y'all want to see more from me.

What are the plans for the body? And will the luggage compartment details be visible after completion?

The body will be basically stock. The trend that I like among Hondas is the simple, OEM style that comes with the JDM conversions and things like that. This is a model of a US car modified with Japanese SiR bumpers, headlights, and that's pretty much it. The entire car will be painted, so no carbon fiber (save the spoilter, I think). I'm going to use Galaxy Gray - the dark, brownish silver found on the latest generation of Civics. I'm going to paint the door handles and rub strips black, though. The only body modification I'll do will be a set of the yellow, square Japanese market factory option foglamps. The rear area will be as visible as can be under the Fujimi glass. I don't plan to open up anything more than the hood, as that's the natural state of cars we see on the street or at shows. The side glass will all be replaced, though.

Love the drivetrain swap and all the mad tyte JDM goodies, but I wish it was EG. That EK just doesn't have the personality of the EG.
What do I know I'm a Nissan guy

Well, we all have our favorites. Mine is the EK because I drive a coupe of that generation. I like the optimistic headlights, too. To be honest, the rear of the EG, though, is just so pretty I go back and forth all the time. My next will be an EG, actually, since I FINALLY got my hands of the Fujimi NR10s from the Mugen Beat kit. Party TIME!!

how's the height of the k20?

It fits just fine. Plenty of room, actually. It's quite nice, the Fujimi kit is well proportioned, so the approximate engine model fits well, but tight like the real thing. It'll make it easy to put the engine mounts in like 1:1.

For the lettering on the side as you said, PE is the obvious route. AFIK there are p/e letters available in eg 1/35 armor stores and shipbuilding stores - maybe you could use these?

As for logos etc., I would have thought that a scaled-down logo printed in card, cut out by hand or plotter and glued onto the resin master would perhaps give enough height for it to be visible on the resin casts? Just thinking out loud here...

The armour photo etch is a great idea! I'm already using their weld PE for the radiator. I didn't see any at my LHS or it probably would've occurred to me (or not...). The Falken Azenis logo isn't that different from regular lettering, and being so small, maybe I could fudge it... Your idea about card is fantastic too. It only has to withstand one pouring of rubber, right?...

Again, thanks guys! The kind words were a surprise. Progress will be slow, but it'll get there.

01-13-2009, 01:13 AM
I'm definitely watching the progress here!

01-13-2009, 01:35 AM
Your idea about card ... It only has to withstand one pouring of rubber, right?...
Absolutely. I would cover everything in primer beforehand though. :2cents:

01-15-2009, 03:06 AM
jaw dropping............ what great detail i will be keeping my eyes glued to this one cant wait to see more ...........wow i got nothing to say or add!

02-08-2009, 04:36 AM
any updates on this build

02-10-2009, 12:13 AM
loving the detail on the build so far! keep at it!

02-17-2009, 11:34 PM
I heard about this from VTEC-DA9 the other night and i had to see it for myself....Man, I cant wait till you finish this...its gonna be insane...Crazy how you fabricated the rear seat panels and the door panels...

02-26-2009, 12:34 AM
:worshippy:worshippy Truly amazing work. I can only hope to be as skilled someday.:worshippy:worshippy
Cant wait to see more!!!

03-24-2009, 02:41 AM
Looking good so far man. I like ur engine bay. It seems alot bigger than my 1/25 hatch. I take your kit already comes with a master cylinder huh? Mine doesn't. Well, hope ur build turns out as u want it to. I'm not done with my 1st 1/25 Civic and I already too apart my 1/18 civic. Man, the larger models give so much opportunity for detail...

03-25-2009, 09:26 PM
any updates on this build

Sorry, to you and anyone else eagerly looking after this thread. I recently went through some considerable life changes and am only just now settled enough to start working again. I think I'll get my feet wet starting another project before getting into this one. (Don't worry, I very often start something for a week before giving up and going back to this Civic.)

Looking good so far man. I like ur engine bay. It seems alot bigger than my 1/25 hatch. I take your kit already comes with a master cylinder huh? Mine doesn't. Well, hope ur build turns out as u want it to. I'm not done with my 1st 1/25 Civic and I already too apart my 1/18 civic. Man, the larger models give so much opportunity for detail...

No, mine did not come with a master cylinder. I will scrounge it from some other kit, same with the clutch master. Mine was a Fujimi kit like any other, no underhood detail whatsoever. I am enjoying your hatch and hope to see it finished.

04-19-2009, 08:02 AM
Holy crap! I love EK4's! Sir's are sooo sick!!!

I like the route you're taking for the interior.

04-20-2009, 01:05 AM

*Runs and checks to see if pigs are flying*

You are actually doing a W.I.P thread?

LOL Nice man. Welcome back Mr. I only comment on threads these days.

08-27-2009, 07:57 PM
Haha! Sort of a WIP. Unfortunately all the W is coming very slowly and it will be IP for a very long time.

But I did get some things done!! Almost!!

I finally made a good K20 valve cover that I can use. I did it the same way I did most of my other attempts, by laminating various thicknesses of plastic on top of each other in the general shape I needed, and then sanded and trimmed it to finish it. I also made a separate oil filler cap, not because I want it to open on the final model, but because it'd be easier to paint. I mounted them to a piece of plastic card as a master to make copies.




Then I attached it to the top of a resin copy of an F20C block (copied from the Sakatsu white metal set). Looks the business! The K series motors are very similar in size and layout to the F series found in the S2000 (but not the older Accord F series, to cause confusion here). Dig the HAMP oil filter. OH YEAH!



The timing cover doesn't look as good as I'd've liked it to, and I may redo it. I may not, though, because it fits very tightly against the passenger side strut tower and chassis as you can see below. The only blank space there is where the engine mount there attaches, so you won't see ANY of it. And I was stressing about the engine identification barcode sticker on timing cover... psh...


I also made the brake master cylinder, and the brake booster. They were left separate for ease of painting. They're not 100% to scale, it's all been shortened, but it needs to fit and look right. Oh well.



More good news for me, I'm moving this weekend and I'll finally have a place to really paint! I'm very glad, as this body has been ready for paint for a very long time, and I think that once I get that done I'll be much more motivated to get it going in a good way.

Comments of any sort welcome! Any ideas one wheels are welcome, too, please, I've got my sights set on some Volk RE30s made into 15" wheels, but I may have missed the boat on getting a set. Thanks for looking!

bri g
08-27-2009, 08:34 PM
wow! that's what I'm talking about :D that k20 valve cover and brake booster/master looks spot on. It doesn't matter if the updates are few but they are well worth it. nice job willimo! I would suggest a nice spoon carbon fiber lip for the 96-98 sir bumper.

08-27-2009, 09:06 PM
Will, you rock; plain and simple. :sunglasse

08-31-2009, 05:46 PM
im glad to see u back u inspire me to move on with my projects.....

08-31-2009, 07:18 PM
Excellent scratching! :thumbsup:

And I was stressing about the engine identification barcode sticker on timing cover... psh...


08-31-2009, 07:52 PM
That valve cover is awesome. If I ever get to building the K20 I have lying around I'll have to remember this.

08-31-2009, 08:05 PM
very impressive detailing man! cant wait to see how it looks finished!

08-31-2009, 08:31 PM
Wow, that valve cover is amazing. Keep us posted.

09-01-2009, 11:50 AM
Great progres man..

I cant wait for next photos:icon16:

09-21-2009, 09:07 AM
Great progress! Looking good and interesting! Love your work.

04-05-2010, 10:25 PM
So recently I installed a Password: JDM triangulated strut tower bar (http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-3-Point-Front-Strut-Tower-Bar-92-00-Civic-94-01-Integra-Bronze-P1116C4.aspx) into my 1:1 Civic. First impressions weren't that remarkable, but then I noticed that oversteer would come on more abruptly and surprise me, and when really pushing turn in was sharper and I had less problems with understeer. I still haven't raced it, so the jury is still out for me performance wise.

As far as how it looks, though, I love it. One of the coolest parts around, I think, and I've wanted one since PWJDM started making them. They're almost as cool as the CARBING parts with their built in master cylinder brace and the "Enjoy Motoring & Motor Spirits By" stickers, and cool. So of course, my 1:24 Civic needed one as well. The car is very inspired by all the cool parts I find on the PWJDM website, and I was very excited when they included a second little metal plaque for the bar, I'll mount it on the base that I display the model on. So perfect. I've always intended to have this part be on the model too, a real interesting piece to go along with my K20 and all the detail I want to attempt.

I spent Sunday afternoon watching Robocop and putting this together. First I measured the 1:1 part and make a quick little drawing on my notepad. Then I measured the space that the part will occupy on the model, and made a second little drawing with the revised measurements. The only difference was I was about two scale inches short between the strut towers! I'll admit I'm pretty proud of that. Then I drew up a template for the part on another sheet so that I could cut the bars to scale and glue them together. The next step was to take some styrene rod and shape it into a elliptical shape, the PWJDM bars are not made of round stock. First I scraped the rod with my hobby blade, then sanded them smooth. Once in the elliptical shape, I could cut them and place them on my template. I used a file with sharp edges to file into the end of the short bars so they would glue tightly to the main bar.


I then made the brackets/risers for the bar out of sheet styrene, cutting the base to shape and then cutting a trapezoidal shaped upright with the holes drilled in and wrapping it around the appropriate side of the base. It tool me three tries to make two, but I got it done. I then made the part between the two short bars that on the 1:1 bolts it to the firewall. This was simple, just three pieces of strip styrene and two triangular gussets.


Two make these three parts fit perfectly into the car, I used white glue to hold the two brackets/risers on the strut towers, while I glued the bar to the firewall with white glue. This allowed me to adjust it all until it fit properly and straight before cementing it all together. Once the cement set, I was able to pry it off and now I can prime it and paint it and put it aside until final installation.


So, small progress. This'll get one day!

Drift F.C
04-05-2010, 11:41 PM
You should use one of Tuned.by.twenty's rear spoilers

Killer job

04-06-2010, 07:37 PM
Cool idea on the strut brace! That will be a nice touch when the model is finished!


04-06-2010, 09:03 PM
That strut bar is the perfect touch for that engine bay! I know it's still missing paint, but I really like how it looks in white.

You should use one of Tuned.by.twenty's rear spoilers


04-07-2010, 11:05 PM
Mine is the Fujimi kit, not the Revell kit. It'd have to be modified anyway, so I'll just cut up the Fujimi part. I have like, a billion of them.

Thanks for the words, sorry the pictures are so unclear, I didn't realize they were so bad.

04-07-2010, 11:26 PM
Nice job on the strut brace bar. Looks good too.

04-08-2010, 07:15 AM
Looks great Will! I always like seeing people build models inspired by their 1:1 and AF needs more JDM rides like this. I look forward to seeing more progress on this one.


04-09-2010, 05:34 PM
Very nice build, my girlfriend drives a 98 Civic and I really find all the details very accurate.

I planned to convert a Fujimi CRX Si into SiR to build a replica of my 1:1 ride someday, but I'll have to practice a lot before my skills allow me to do it as cleanly.

Nice work, the strut brace rocks! :)

Edit : a set of TE37 would definitely look nice to my mind. ;)

04-12-2010, 03:19 AM
nice build..... only, less $$ and less dirt.
keep it up. i quit my model making. cost me quite a lot. must choose which one I want to support, building the real car or the model. I choose the 1st one. I might come back later, but my hands are not as steady as before due to hard wrenching and what not.

04-20-2010, 01:53 PM

11-26-2010, 02:53 AM
got VTAC yo?
that valve cover is amazing
will you add authentic mugen reservoir booties?
one of my favorite pwdjdm parts is the whale pen!s carbon fiber intake

11-26-2010, 05:35 AM
suscribed! :P

Nice work

11-29-2010, 01:24 PM
Thanks guys. I'm working so slowly and infrequently, I don't feel like I have all my skills, so it just slows down even more. I'm trying to get more done!

11-29-2010, 02:30 PM
Actually, looking at the thread, I realize I've done a lot since my last update.

I cast a copy of the transmission from the Tamiya NSX (street version) and modified it.


I had to shorten the copy in the distance from the bellhousing to the end so that it would fit in between the frame rails and look more proportional. I also added the linkage to the top, and the clutch slave cylinder on the side. They will pop once detail painted and I will be adding the shift cables and a line to the slave cylinder.


I also decided on what wheels I'm going with. I'm going to use the Mugen MF10. They're pretty much my favorite wheel, bred for their skills and magic. I used the ones out of the Tamiya S2000 kit, but they scale out to 17". That's way too big for an EK in my opinion, so I had to make them smaller. I wanted to go down to 15" but I was afraid the spokes would look weird, so I made them 16". I just take the hoop out of some 16" wheel I don't want, cut the spokes out, sand the inside so it's got the right profile (starting with a similar wheel helps), then I cut the spokes out of the wheel I want to use, and place the hoop and center section on a centering jig (I should get a photo...) and glue it together. It's a pretty simple way to change a wheel size.


I also did a lot to the interior. I've got most of it built and painted... I don't have the parking brake lever made yet, nor do i have the harness bar, so I don't have the harnesses or the seats in yet. I'm going to use the PE hobby design harnesses, but I'm afraid about painting them and them chipping while installing. And tricks by anyone who's used them?


I've also done some paint work to the body. In this picture you can almost see the orange "foam" behind the seat and the seatback. I'm glad of that little detail. I used Tamiya tape to make the foam... right color, and right texture, and easy to apply. I've thought about adding the SiR rear seat headrests, but am on the fence about it. I did put them in another SiR model I'm doing, but it's going to a fresh-off-the-boat import, not a conversion like this one.



Crazy Honda photo angle!!


So now it's starting to look like something! I'm having a bull of a time trying to mask off the headlamps so I can spray them Alclad II chrome, BMF is even harder to get right! The car is sitting on the wheels, so that's not the ride height, and the tires will be lower profile. But it's starting to look like something!

Comments, criticisms welcome and encouraged! Thanks for looking!

11-29-2010, 04:17 PM
Very nice progress, I like the blue recaros with the grey livery.
Smart trick for the wheels size change, I will have to give it a try.

Concerning the hobby design PE harnesses, they SURE will chip away during installation, however if you're very careful and with a small touch-up work afterwards, they really look perfect.
Anyway, if someone has a better trick I'm interested too. :iceslolan

04-04-2011, 11:23 PM
have you had a chance to work on this bad boy?

04-05-2011, 06:20 AM
Anyway, if someone has a better trick I'm interested too. :iceslolan

You can apply a mat clear coat, it doesn't help to increase the adherence but it create a layer that allow you to touch

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