New water pump and now overheating
New water pump and now overheating
01-09-2009, 06:51 PM
01-09-2009, 10:38 PM
I have a 2000 olds silhouette. I put a new Jasper engine in it 3 years ago. Dec. 2007, started running hot, one time, I was told a head was bad on it. Okay, warr. covered that one. 4 wks ago, I had a new water pump put in. Mind you, this engine has not ran hot not one time. Now the temp is running hot just about everytime I drive it. The place that put the water pump on, put a themostat in it, still running hot. I have read on here about bleeding the system, what is that all about? Now I am being told again that there is a bad head gasket, and will cost another 700 to fix it. My question is, how is this thing running hot after I put a new water pump on? It has never run out in the last 13 months when this happened then. ??Help!!!!!!!!!!!
I have a 2000 Silo too.
I find it hard to believe the head gasket is breached.
When the dash gauge shows hot, is the engine coolant boiling? As in being forced out the coolant reservoir.
Have you had a coolant pressure test done?
Are you slowly, but steadily losing coolant from the coolant reservoir?
Visible or non-visible leak?
Is the engine oil a normal amber color or is it a milky brown?
Pertaining to your last sentence, "never run out". Do you mean the engine has never been run out of coolant?
Was the new t-stat installed the right way?
An air lock in the cooling system is easily 'bled'. Actually, it does it during the cooling down period. The system burps out unwanted air via the coolant reservoir.
The coolant reservoir bottle on these vans do not have a pressurized cap.
Is the temp gauge working properly? Perhaps during the engine swap the temp sending unit wasn't checked or has a bad connection.
01-10-2009, 09:30 AM
When the temp gauge runs hot, I can hear the water boiling. I meant to say the van has never ran hot. Something is making this engine run hot, and is burning the heads. I have a new radiatior, new theromstat, new water pump. What else could be doing this? Before I get the heads reworked or new ones, I want to know what is causing this problem. This is the 2nd time in 13 months. Theromstat was put on right, they even took the new water pump off again and put another new one in, and it still ran hot.
01-10-2009, 04:54 PM
Hmmm, how about a collapsed coolant hose? Are they old?
Was a stop leak additive dumped into this coolant at any time? Perhaps before you bought it?
You may have read through the following but here it is anyway. You may know all this but maybe you'll see something we haven't thought of.
If you don't want to read all of it, jump ahead to the 'engine' section.
go to: howstuffworks.com and click on 'auto' then type in 'cooling system' and go from there.
I tried to put the url up for you but it won't work.
01-11-2009, 12:16 AM
Nothing has ever been added to the coolant. Has anybody ever tried the "burp" system to get air pockets out? I am going to try this in the morning. Like I said, this van has never run hot until I got a new water pump installed. I wonder if there is a air pocket somewhere. Also, I noticed my carpet was wet under the front part of the van after I had the water pump replaced. What could this mean? The heat has been working fine at times.
01-11-2009, 07:46 PM
let me ask you what brand of t-stat was put in ? if it was one made in mexico then this is your problem.did they use too much atv ? as too much will clog stuff up.as for the leak in floor could just be the a/c drain hose clogged or missing.or worst could be heater core leeaking. does coolant come up on the windshield?
01-13-2009, 01:17 PM
The first thing I would do is make sure there is no air in the system. There are 2 bleeder screws, 1 on the thermostat housing and the other on the coolant pipe on the front of the engine. It works better if you bleed the cooling system when it is cold. Take the radiator cap off and open the bleeder screws. If there is air in the system you should be able to add some coolant. Fill the radiator and when you can't add any more, close the screws and start the vehicle add coolant as necessary. When you can't add any more put the cap on an watch your gauge as it warms up. While idling it is normal for the needle to go over half way. Eventually you should start to feel the upper radiator hose start to get hot, that would be a good sign, the thermostat has opened. Now check to see if your heater is working. If not, don't panic. Look at your gauge, if the engine is not overheating, give it some gas and run it up to about 2000 rpms for a few minutes, this usually gets the coolant flowing through the heater core. After completing all of the above, take it out and drive it and watch the guage. If all is well, all you had was air in the system. If it is still overheating, then you have problem else where, but not neccessarly a head or head gasket problem. There could be other reasons the coolant isn't circulating properly. The radiator could be plugged, the water pump that was installed could be faulty, the thermostat that was installed may be installed incorrectly or could be faulty, but if the shop that did the work did not bleed the air out of the system or did not do it correctly, then the cooling system must be blead.
02-12-2011, 09:50 AM
Jasper should pick up that bill also.Maybe they didn't deck the block so the new head would seal good, so it started leaking again. Or maybe the head wasn't done right when repaired/rebuilt to use on you'r engine, so it leaked.If it's the other head now, running hot because of the first bad head could cause the other head to to get hot and need replacing as the heat would warp it also if it got hot enough during that time.Jasper should have checked both heads while fixing the first head.Band aid job..
02-16-2011, 12:26 PM
..well that was more than 2 years ago...it would have been convenient to learn of how the issue finally turned out. My guess, the heads, so common....and changing the pump in hope of clearing the problem for cheap is an easy try, 99.9% of the time to no avail! THIs engine block is...was... disgusting.
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