Service Engine Light

Looking for a little guidance:

My sons car is a 1998 Contour SE 2.0 DOHC. He's been driving this for a couple of years with the light on. Never really complained about a shifting problem. He using another car while I attempt to fix this one.

1. P0171 - System too lean (Bank 1)
2. P1744 - Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Performance
3. P1116 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor out of self test range
4. Blown Fuse for fan - several times.

1. I'm assuming a vaccum or intake leak. Looking for suggestions on where to start.
2. I've been reading about the TRS being bad, good place to start?
3. Is this just a temp sensor replacement?
4. Fan motor replacement?

Would any combination of these codes be related?

Thanks for any assistance

1. Could also be a bad O2 sensor
4. Could also be a bad wire causing a short. I'd check for that first.

Thanks Dr. Disque, I'll check those and let you know what I find. I wanted to troubleshoot these items this weekend, but other things prevaild. Sometime during the week it will get done.

1. More than likely a intake leak. Check intake manifold gaskets.
2. Probably a shot TC, but you can try replacing the TSS first and see if that helps.
3. Coolant temp sensor needs to be replaced. Make sure you replace the correct one. There is a sensor for the dash gauge and another for the PCM. You need to replace the one for the PCM.
4. Does either fan come on at all? Does the high fan come on if its hooked directly to power?

1. Okay, it's been a long time since I've checked for leaks on an intake. Is it still done with ether?

1. Okay, it's been a long time since I've checked for leaks on an intake. Is it still done with ether?

You can try, but I would just pull the intake manifold off and inspect them.

1. That seems like a lot of work, but never having done it, I really don't know.

2. Now that I trashed the TSS trying to remove it, any suggestions on how to get it out? I attempted to pry it out with 2 screw drivers but the flange broke. Before that, I used channel locks and pulled, but that also broke off. All that's left is a stub.

Can I drill out the center (as long as I don't go through)?

3. I see the temp sensor at the top, rear of the engine, is this the right one? If not, where's the one I need to change?

1. That seems like a lot of work, but never having done it, I really don't know.

2. Now that I trashed the TSS trying to remove it, any suggestions on how to get it out? I attempted to pry it out with 2 screw drivers but the flange broke. Before that, I used channel locks and pulled, but that also broke off. All that's left is a stub.

Can I drill out the center (as long as I don't go through)?

3. I see the temp sensor at the top, rear of the engine, is this the right one? If not, where's the one I need to change?

I don't think you really have any other choice with the TSS. That's probably what I would do.

I'm not too familiar with the zetec motor. Unplug the sensor and see if the gauge pegs. Believe it should peg to the left. If it pegs, you have the wrong sensor. I have a Ford service manual at home. I'll look when I get home from the office to see exactly where it's located.

I guess, I could look at the uninstall/reinstall for the TSS as well in case you ever plan on doing this again.

1. P0171 - System too lean (Bank 1)
1a. I re-torqued the intake bolts, cleared DLC and it did not return while running in the garage. I do need to drive it around for a while as see what happens.

2. P1744 - Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Performance
2a. I finally removed the TSS, it had rusted 1/4" all the way around which was holding it. Installed the new TSS, cleared DLC and since the tire was off, I ran through the gears, DLS did not return, but I do need to drive it for awhile.

3. P1116 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor out of self test range
3a. I disconnected the sensor as suggested and when I reconnected it, DLC was not there any more.

4. Blown Fuse for fan - several times.
4a. As discribed (blown fuse) was not the problem, but the fan did not work. I moved the wire bundle (next to fan motor) around and the first 3 settings started to work, high did not. Pulled the resistor and 1 connector tested bad. I'll buy a new resistor which should fix this.

Thanks for suggestions.

Replaced the resistor and HIGH still did not work. Found the actual swith melted internally (probably from the bad resistor). Off to the Ford dealer for a switch.

Replaced the fan switch and now the fan operates normal at all settings. Took the car out for a drive and the service engine light never appeared.

Thanks again for the suggestions.