I currently have a 305 in my 76 nova, after breaking down the engine, i discovered a whole host of problems, some of which include:
Worn out manifold/ valve cover gaskets completely rusted away thermostat( only thing left was the frame, found what was left of it after flushing the radiator ) severly rusted waterways, stuck vacuum switchs, missing pcv valve ( both intake and return ) , the egr was completly clogged and the plunger wasnt moving as well as the egr ports on the intake and heads being completly clogged with carbon build up.
I should also mention, this engine has never been taken apart or cleaned out...everything is damn near original except for plugs and wires, oil/ filter, radiator and battery, and air cleaner.

So to cut to the chase, Should I look into maybe hunting down a 350 from a junkyard, or just rebuild the one i got? I am looking into performance parts to replace warn out ones, but the main thing im going for is more power. maybe a 350 is a cheaper alternative. Im also wanting to swap the trans for a 4speed manny if at all possible.



Whats my best course of action?

Well, the LAST thing you want is a "junkyard" engine. What do we buy in JUNKyards? JUNK...(:- Of course, if you find a low-miles used engine that fits your application, and the price is very good, you'll be fine. Make sure it comes with a "money back if not what it's represented to be" guarentee.

You could go the "crate" routine, and settle for a mid-level quality engine. Chevy sells a few variations on the stock 350, some of which are pretty good performers in the right car.

Or, you could find a rebuildable "core" 350 and build it the way you want it. As an engine shop, this is our recommendation (surprise...). In truth, for about the same money as the some of the better "craters", a good machine shop can provide you with a FAR better engine. Just be careful which shop you choose!

If sheer performance isn't as important as fuel economy and cost-to-build, simply rebuild the 305 and be done with it!

Jim

, but the main thing im going for is more power. maybe a 350 is a cheaper alternative. Im also wanting to swap the trans for a 4speed manny if at all possible.

If you really want more power, rebuilding the 305 would be somewhat a waste of money. In general, the 350 not only has more displacement, but typically has better cylinder heads and more power potential.

As MrPbody says, if you know of a GOOD performance rebuilder near you, go there. But ask for references. I have had some real rebuilding disasters from shops which I never checked out and made terrible errors. (BTW all the engines I personally rebuilt turned out great.)
Also find a rebuilder who is willing to work with you and gives you good asnwers to your questions.

Let the rebuilder know you want a 4 speed so they can ensure there is a pilot bushing in the rear of the crankshaft. Most 350's were fitted to autos and often do not have a cavity for a pilot bushing.

Just my vote, but finding a running, rebuildable 350 is a good route. Stay with a 1987 or later passenger car engine to insure that you get a block prepped for a factory roller cam. I've given up on flat tappet builds any more. The physics of the system just plain doesn't allow all the possible lobe profiles you might want for various applications, and the lubrication challenges of flat tappets are growing daily. The roller will always have advantages over a flat tappet.

Retrofitting an older case to a roller is an option, but an expensive one. The factory roller system is adequate to 7,500 RPM and beyond 0.560" lifts if properly prepped.

A 4-bolt main cap is not necessary for most street engine builds, and not even desirable for a serious power build. The aftermarket splayed bolt arrangement based on a 2-bolt case is far superior to the factory 4-bolt setup. That said, don't avoid a factory 4-bolt for a street build, since they will hold up just fine. It's just that the factory 4-bolts were frequently in trucks, and most of those didn't get a roller cam until the early-mid 1990s.

You can usually build a 350 for the same mileage and efficiency and less money than a 305.

What would be a good vehicle to get a donor engine off of? possible one that is also dirt cheap lol

Hello. Just my thoughts on the engine swap you are considering. Stuffing a newer engine 87+ into the nova may bring out your state's smog police. If anyone watches spike tv's powerblock series ian of extreme 4/4 spent a complete episode on this subject a few weeks ago. They stuffed a modern hemi into an older jeep. Ian was pretty through on the pitfalls one may encounter.
Costs may play a roll also. Newer engones cost more + you will have to use the correct computer & wiring harness etc. Cost could get out of hand.
The best way is to find a running engine of your choice that has a warranty. Other options are.
Short/long block from a reliable builder ie. Jasper
boneyards depends reputation of the recycler. ?????
Buy a running doner vehicle. 70's era vehicles are getting rarer.
Automotive swap meets. ??vendors reliabiliy.

Hope this helps
novaz27

I saw this post and figured I'd put my two cents in. If you're truly looking for power, you should consider a 383 or SBC 400. the blocks are almost the same and the engine mounts will line up with little or no mods. Depending on your budget will dictate the route you go. But, like I said, this is JMHO.

Well, I agree and disagree with much of what's been said.

The majority of 350s made between '67 and '78 ARE "4-bolt" blocks. This is a great basis for a street engine. The later "2-piece rear seal" blocks with the right-hand dipstick are of a "softer" alloy, making them a bit less desirable for power levels above 400 or so HP. Under that, they're fine. The "early" 4-bolt is good for just about all levels of racing until power adders bring it past 700 HP. The "splayed bolt" caps are the best way to go, no argument. But I wouldn't go out of my way to do that until a SERIOUS power level is reached (above 700). If you HAVE a 2-bolt block lying around, by all means, splay it!

Late model 350s use different flexplate/flywheel combinations and balancers. The electronics and fuel system is easy enough to "convert". Mounts are the same, too. If one were to keep track of all the changes in the rotating assembly, the late model isn't a bad idea.

Hydraulic rollers are overrated, IMO. We use solid rollers in most higher-level street engines today, except those equipped with a "knock sensor", and even that has a "way around it". We've seen many failures with the hydraulic rollers, as well. The factory stuff is better than the "retro-fit" stuff, agreed, but the lifters are still quite heavy and upper RPM is limited by the hydraulic nature.

Flat tappet solids are regaining popularity. With the modern lifters employing an oil hole in the center, wiped lobes are a thing of the past. Comp has some excellent XE grinds using solids. And forget the myth of weekly valve adjustments. Using modern valve train pieces (poly-locks, girdles, etc.), makes that too, a thing of the past.

383 is, IMO, the BEST configuration of SBC for a streeter. 400 is not as good due to the flimsy nature of the block. Once all the necessary changes to make the 400 block capable of "living" at a high level of power, it has cooling issues and it's debatable whether or not the power gains over 383 are worth it. Now, using an aftermarket 400 block, a MONSTER small block can be made "reliable". Kinda kills the "small block is cheaper to build" thing, though. If building a stroker, DO NOT use a cheap Chinese casting if you want to rev it past 5,200 RPM and live. The Chevy nodular casting is a good crankshaft. The aftermarket forgings are, for the most part, very good as well.

FWIW

Jim