Power window motor replacement????

I was wondering when I drill out the factory rivets on the motor and remove it will the window itself drop and do I need something to hold the window up and in place? Thanks

Yes.

Run a long piece of tape from one side of the window up over the top to the other side - actually, I used 2 strips. If you don't, it'll fall into the door and quite possibly shatter...and that's a mess you don't need to deal with.

I don't know about the '00s, but the rivets on the door of my '93 were so beefy and hard, it was quicker and easier to take the die grinder to them. The ones holding the window motor to the regulator were lighter and drilled out in a second or two.

Oh, that reminds me: use a C-clamp to hold the spring in place before you drill out the rivets holding the motor to the regulator. It's very important...

Thanks. The next time I have more time on my hands to take door apart I will remember to use the C-clamp.

When I did the motor on my '92, I took the end of the motor itself off. There are some tabs bent to hold the end plate/brush holder in place. I just bent them out straight.
After removing the end plate, I found gear grease covering the brushes, motor commutator and bi-metal overload piece. I cleaned these with carburetor cleaner, bypassed the overload then re-installed everything. Works good now.

Yes.

Run a long piece of tape from one side of the window up over the top to the other side - actually, I used 2 strips. If you don't, it'll fall into the door and quite possibly shatter...and that's a mess you don't need to deal with.

I don't know about the '00s, but the rivets on the door of my '93 were so beefy and hard, it was quicker and easier to take the die grinder to them. The ones holding the window motor to the regulator were lighter and drilled out in a second or two.

Oh, that reminds me: use a C-clamp to hold the spring in place before you drill out the rivets holding the motor to the regulator. It's very important...

Another great use for duct tape, just put some plastic wrap over the painted frame first.

And I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel instead of the die grinder, much easier to get into tight space with.

bypassed the overload
Isn't the overload also the up and down limiter, or shutoff?

And I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel instead of the die grinder, much easier to get into tight space with.

Should have been more specific - this is a mini die grinder, or a pneumatic Dremel - whatever you'd like to call it :)

I don't know Eric, there's nothing for it to contact with like a button or lever. Is tripping the overload a good way to stop the motor after the window closes?

I don't know Eric, there's nothing for it to contact with like a button or lever. Is tripping the overload a good way to stop the motor after the window closes?
Yeah, no limit or zone switches, it's been my undestanding that the power windows and antanaes work by resistance, the overload is the only thing i can think of that would be triggered resitance. Guess it wouldn't be a problem except with the auto down feature since nobody holds the switch down too long.