I removed the ignition switch and saw that the key that fits in the key cylinder was broke and I need to remove the Ingition Lock Cylinder inside the housing. How do I do this and Do I need a special tool? Also, the broke key, is this sold seperatly or is it apart of the Ingition Lock Cylinder itself-

Thanks for any help.....

Paul

We've heard of that part breaking before - it's a metal bar, eh, which is located between the lock cylinder and the switch, and which causes the switch to rotate. Unfortunately, I can't remember anybody ever getting back to us to let us know if it's included with a new cylinder or with a new switch. My guess is it will be part of a replacement lock cylinder. It would be worth using the 'Search this forum' feature at the top of the Escort index page, because maybe somebody did tell us and I've just forgotten.

This (http://www.freewebs.com/selectron/ignition-switch-lock-cylinder.htm) is Ford's procedure for removing and replacing the lock cylinder on the '95, which should be very similar to your '94. At the part where they say to cut two slots with a chisel, you might be able to do that with a junior hacksaw blade instead.

Looking at this photo (http://www.c-digital.us/images/escort.jpg) of an early '90s Escort stripped down for heater core replacement, it seems to me that it might be possible to replace the lock cylinder without removing the steering wheel. I'd give it a try first and only remove the steering wheel if it really did prove to be necessary. Don't take any chances with the airbag though, so make sure you disconnect the battery negative cable before you start the job.

Thanks for the reply Selectron...Is that area to be chisled or sawed out located at the bottom or the top of the ignition housing. Also, when I do remove the section, do I use a flathead to pry the cylinder out or do I press that area and pull the cylinder out at the same time...

Thank you again,,,

Paul

When the ignition cylinder bracket was fitted at the factory, they used shear-head bolts to secure it. The heads will have sheared off of those bolts at installation, making the assembly tamperproof but also leaving you with no way to undo them. That's where the chisel is required - you have to form screwdriver slots into the top surface of the two bolt studs in order to undo them. There's an illustration of that at step 6 in the removal procedure (http://www.freewebs.com/selectron/ignition-switch-lock-cylinder.htm). You'll be doing that at the top of the cylinder bracket, and when the two screws are out and the bracket is free, the lock cylinder should just lift out.

Got it...Thanks again Selectron & thanks for the diagram... I was assuming the cylinder could be removed without removing the bracket itself. As for the replacement bolts, I take it they can be purchased at any Advance Auto or the dealership as well as the new cylinder?

Paul

Those two (!@%&*!!) shear headed bolts can be replaced with ordinary hex head metric bolts from a hardware store. I used a hacksaw blade to make a slot in them for removal.
If you to www.rockauto.com (http://www.rockauto.com), put in the make/year/model of your car, and look in the 'electrical switch and relay' heading, you should be able to find pictures of the ignition switch assembly & its parts, under the heading 'ignition starter switch'. You click on the illustrations to see a larger image.
It seems possible to replace the ignition switch parts, by unbolting the column (4 12mm bolts under neath) so it will drop down a bit, and unscrewing the top and bottom plastic 'clamshells'. ...and leaving the steering wheel in place. (Battery disconected though!)
At least thats how I opened it up.... so I could cut the white wire that causes the 'door-open-with-key-in-ignition' chime to operate. The chime for leaving-the-lights-on-when-ignition-is-off still works.
I once got a new ignition lock cylinder at a junkyard, & they seem to be available at www.rockauto.com (http://www.rockauto.com). I got my new ignition switch (electrical part) at a regular auto parts place.

Ok, got the cylinder housing removed, "Thank You!!!" now it seems I just need to replace the "lock cylinder" inside the housing. I see two holes at the front of the housing that looks to be pins. Are these pushed in or pulled out, Or is it better to just replace the whole thing. I'm having a hell of a time...LOL

Thanks again,,,

Paul

Look in the box that came with the new unit they have pictures and instructions in the box.
I'm not sure on this but normally you use a small allen wrench and push in the pins.

Thanks for the reply rhandwor. I will try that today with the allen wrench and check with Advance Auto Monday about the instructions in the box. Also, on the '94's you better have a 45 degree phillip's head on hand to remove 2 additional screws that are also attached to the housing. I had to make these out of a small cheap phillip's by bending it. Guess you learn something everyday...

Thanks guy's,

Paul

Paul

I Tried using the allen wrench by pressing down on the pin but they won't move. I know this may be a silly question but Should I tap on the wrench to remove the pin's Or will this damage the cylinder?

Thanks again...

The ones I worked on had a spring under them.

Still no luck with the allen wrench. They just won't budge! I tried turing the key in different positions will trying to push down on the pins. Any suggestions?

Thanks again,

Paul

Go to Auto Zone my son bought one and it had instructions in the box.
Look in the Haynes manual in the store.

Insert key turn to on position look under keyswitch for a small hole use small allen wrench press in release button. Pull out the switch.

Ok, finally had a chance to work on this today. After about 2 hrs of plying and poking, I finally took it up to Napa and was told this particular year, model does not allow you to remove the cylinder, you have to buy the whole housing with the cylinder in it. A 25.00 part just went to 130.00. Oh well, it's worth it...I love my escort!

Thanks to all in this forum for all your help...

You know i have a similar issue just need to replace the middle part the whole cylinder - steering column locking part. But I can't find any small holes that would release the keyed locking mechanism. Would you possibly have a picture or a diagram of how to do it.?
Thanks!

With a car this age the keys themselves wear to the point of causing damage to the door and ignition lock cylinders. Keep the original key put away somewhere like a dresser drawer and only use it as a "Master" key to make copies. Replace the copies every few years or as necessary, before you start to experience problems with the cylinder. Be sure to destroy the used, worn keys. You can have the hardware store do it when go to make new copies. Also make sure you always fully insert the key and don't try to force the cylinder to turn. Sometimes it'll be necessary to turn and hold the steering wheel slighly to take the pressure of the ignition and allow it to operate. (necessary for many cars accrossed manufacturers actually) Also keep those locks lubricated with graphite, available at any hardware store especially where keys are made. The graphite is extremely handy as it prevents frozen locks. (liquid silicone lubricant prevents frozen doors by the way -- apply to rubber seals at least anually or as necessary)

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EDIT 09y01m21d132508h:
Some contradicting information:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1561794256-post19.html
Graphite won't hurt a magnetic strip, but if the key has a pellet like our Corvette keys do or if there is any kind of electronics in the key, I would not use graphite!!! Graphite is a good conductor of electricity. Call a dealer and ask if graphite can be used on the lock cylinder.

Well it keeps my door and trunk locks from freezing you can probably keep using there. But it's important that you get the right information so call a professional about the ignition. Chances are you won't get a straight answer other than (bring it in) and replace it. If you do decide to use it in the ignition, a little goes a long way. Don't use a ton of it.