Okay,

Perplexing problem. I can't unlock the passenger door w/o reaching over. I have changed the options on the key fob to unlock both. But, still the passenger door won't unlock. It won't even unlock when I punch the unlock button on the driver's side door panel. I actually have to manually unlock it!

I've only had the car for two days, so I could be missing something. My first 'Vette was '75. I had to lean over to unlock the other door. :) My friends would laugh, until we got going!

Any thoughts?

I'm not good w/electrical accessory stuff. Give me any ideas, you won't insult me!

Help?

Okay,

Perplexing problem. I can't unlock the passenger door w/o reaching over. I have changed the options on the key fob to unlock both. But, still the passenger door won't unlock. It won't even unlock when I punch the unlock button on the driver's side door panel. I actually have to manually unlock it!

I've only had the car for two days, so I could be missing something. My first 'Vette was '75. I had to lean over to unlock the other door. :) My friends would laugh, until we got going!

Any thoughts?

I'm not good w/electrical accessory stuff. Give me any ideas, you won't insult me!

Help? Hard to say.Loose wire connection on that lock?

Okay,

Perplexing problem. I can't unlock the passenger door w/o reaching over. I have changed the options on the key fob to unlock both. But, still the passenger door won't unlock. It won't even unlock when I punch the unlock button on the driver's side door panel. I actually have to manually unlock it!

I've only had the car for two days, so I could be missing something. My first 'Vette was '75. I had to lean over to unlock the other door. :) My friends would laugh, until we got going!

Any thoughts?

I'm not good w/electrical accessory stuff. Give me any ideas, you won't insult me!

Help?
A "power door lock" uses a little electrical device in the door to unlock the door latch. This device functions independently of the manual lock switch.

So it is possible for this electrical device to fail but the manual switch still works.

I think this is what has happened - the electrical device has failed or is stuck due to dirt or debris, or there is a poor electrical connection.
Either way, the passenger door interior panel will have to be removed to gain access to teh electrical device. From then, the wires to the device can be tested to see if they have power. If yes, then the device itself has failed amd must be repaired or replaced.

A "power door lock" uses a little electrical device in the door to unlock the door latch. This device functions independently of the manual lock switch.

So it is possible for this electrical device to fail but the manual switch still works.

I think this is what has happened - the electrical device has failed or is stuck due to dirt or debris, or there is a poor electrical connection.
Either way, the passenger door interior panel will have to be removed to gain access to teh electrical device. From then, the wires to the device can be tested to see if they have power. If yes, then the device itself has failed amd must be repaired or replaced.Would that be a servo?

I know this is an old thread, but maybe you haven't sold it and I've dealt with this issue twice already.

Open the passenger door, and pull out the "accordion" rubber tube that houses the wiring going into the door. After you do, pull the wiring out of the body side until you can see the main plug/disconnect for the door. You will *most likely* find that one of the wires has a clear plastic sleaving on it, and it has slid down the wire a bit, exposing it. When this wire is moved, it contacts some of the metal in the dash, and shorts/grounds/whatever. Take this wire and wrap it with some electrical tape to keep the wires covered when it goes back in the dash.

This was my initial problem, that compounded much worse to cause almost all of the electronics on the vehicle to go haywire.

Hope that helps!

Jon

I know this is an old thread, but maybe you haven't sold it and I've dealt with this issue twice already.

Open the passenger door, and pull out the "accordion" rubber tube that houses the wiring going into the door. After you do, pull the wiring out of the body side until you can see the main plug/disconnect for the door. You will *most likely* find that one of the wires has a clear plastic sleaving on it, and it has slid down the wire a bit, exposing it. When this wire is moved, it contacts some of the metal in the dash, and shorts/grounds/whatever. Take this wire and wrap it with some electrical tape to keep the wires covered when it goes back in the dash.

This was my initial problem, that compounded much worse to cause almost all of the electronics on the vehicle to go haywire.

Hope that helps!

Jon

same thing happened to me as Jon said it.. update on how its going...