I picked up a woodgrain 1988 Plymouth Voyager with a 2.5L motor and 3 speed auto for $400. It has 143k.

It is in great shape rust wise and runs well. However, it has had some electrical issues that seem to be piling up. (Is this normal?)

Right after I got it, the engine temp. idiot light started coming on dimly when the car was running for more than a few minutes. This is strange because the mechanical coolant temp. gauge I installed on a T into the block shows the engine getting no hotter than 180 (sometimes almost 190). I replaced the thermostat. The thermostat is for 195, so either the engine is running pretty cool or the T is interfering with the mechanical gauge's sending unit from getting hot enough. Because there were no indications that the car was overheating, temp. light have an electrical issue.

While the car was not apparently overheating, I did notice that the electrical radiator fan wasn't coming on. Thefan motor was good, so I wired up a custom relay/thermostat set up to the battery (power from IGN activates relay).

A bit more alarming was the low oil pressure light. When this light came on, it came on when the engine oil was hot and the engine RPM was really low (tranny in gear with foot on brake). It went off if I put some pressure on the accelerator. The light did not come on every day I drove it. I realize that the motor may have worn clearances enough to cause a low pressure condition. I haven't gotten an oil pressure tool hooked up yet.

Over bumps, my headlights would sometimes flicker off and come back on. More recently, I found that wiggling the fuse box under the dash would help when interior lighting went out. Finally, I lost low beam on the left (can't remember if it was ground or positive that went out) and my windshield wipers.

I have decided to rewire everything that involves the dash or steering column as I see fit. My goal is to have a minimalist setup. I've removed the dash for now. I dismantled the air conditioner, hoses going from the heater box to the vacuum tank (plugged), radio, and the factory gauge/idiot light cluster.

My intention is to have a bare minimum wiring setup. Just headlights (and position and turn signal lights), windshield wipers, and heater blower motor (heater core), an aftermarket speedometer, engine temp. gauge, oil pressure gauge, and a bare minimum of indication lights to pass inspection (check engine, turn signal indicators, and brake warning light). No radio. All connections will be soldered when possible.

I will not be rewiring everything. For example, brake lamp circuits, back up light wiring, ignition, horn, fuel pump, etc. wiring is functioning well and won't need any work. Also, I will be hooking up two LEDs on the custom dash to the existing circuitry for the brake warning light and check engine light. This circuitry functions (at least, those wires are live for the bulb test when I turn the ignition to ON).

I intend for this vehicle to be a daily driver for quite a few years. It will need to pass state inspection and be reliable.

Now that I've given you the context (my reasons for undertaking this project, my intentions for the project, and goals), here are my questions:

Has anyone else done this?
What are some best practices to follow? (relays, gauge and amps)
Is there any reason not to use the positive battery terminal as common source?
What pitfalls may I encounter when trying to get the K car inspected?
On gauges: Will a stock speedometer work properly with the speedo cable coming from the transmission? (it is clip on so this may require some work)
Can I eliminate my heater box and build a smaller one around the heater core that just directs air up through the defrost vents of the dash?
Do I need a PRND indicator for inspection? (I don't want to bother because I will be putting in a manual of the tranny goes)

Thanks! :biggrin:

Clarification: I want to hook an aftermarket speedometer and fuel gauge (as well as the temp and oil that I already installed). The factory speedo/gauges/idiot light cluster is not being used. Will an aftermarket speedometer work with the clip? Does the van's sending unit give 0 ohms empty / 90 ohms full?

Thanks.