I've been wanting to build this model for at least a decade now. After a couple of false starts I've finally made enough
progress that I'd like to share what I've done.

The strategy is to use the 1/24th Gunze "high-tech" kit as the foundation, adding the incredible Replicas and Miniatures
of Maryland SWB engine kit and the Model Factory Hiro SWB wheel kit to make a fairly detailed model.

Please cut me a bit of slack on my initial posts. I'm new here and on the steep side of the curve regarding images and
things..
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/587001-4.jpg

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt.jpg
I began by modifying the curbside chassis to accept the RM&M engine. I had to remove quite a bit of metal and went through
a few hacksaw blades. The material is very hard and brittle. I also modified the chassis parts to accept the male Hiro wheels
I'll be substituting.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt011.jpg
Here is a check fit of my engine and wheels. The ride height and track is way off but that engine is sooooo detailed I had
to see it in the chassis.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt012.jpg
I have begun modifying the body which to my eye is quite accurate generally. The kit is a curbside so I removed the hood
and decided to also remove the doors. This will be my first attempt at door hinging in this scale.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/TestPics006.jpg
I got tired of grinding and cutting and decided to do some finish work as a change of pace. Here you can see the finished
"snap" exhaust tips. They still need a bit of polishing but not a bad turnout considering the white metal lump they started
out as.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt007.jpg
And finally, this is a piled together view of my progress so far. I have a long way to go. I'm toying with the idea of making
the body removable from the chassis leaving only the floorboards and seats with the entire transmission and drivetrain
exposed. What do you guys think?

Nice project :thumbsup:

I have the same engine to do some day.

The 250SWB is in my list of top three cars I want to have babies with. Therefore the body and chassis should always be mated IMHO :D

P.S. You can post more than one image in a post so there is no need to make separate posts for each photo :thumbsup:

Thanks for the posting tip Klutz. I wasn't sure if the site has a time-out or not. Heck I'm feeling quite a sense of accomplishment at just starting this poor thread. I hope to get better quickly.

Nice work so far! I'll be watching this post!

Wonderful start. Excellent job you are doing justice to the beautiful Berlinetta! :thumbsup:

I'll follow this closely as I'm also preparing to build one of these in the not too distant future.

I'm always glad to see fellow modelers who are willing to undertake such demanding and detailed projects because I'm too poor, too lazy, and too unskilled to do so myself.

Keep up the good work. I love these cars and the components you are using should result in a real stunner.

Wonderful start.
Gunze SWB body is a bit too flat on the sides, and a bit wider than the real car, but it looks good as a model. I found that Hiro body for SWB is the best as far as the proportions go, but the kit is sure not cheap. Though, if you take into account Hiro wheels and RMMD engine kit, its is almost the same price :-) Good luck with the project!

Sweet stuff, did you use hand polish the exhaust pipes or a power tool?

Thanks for the warm welcome guys and thanks for helping me to stay focused on this project. I'm a prolific project starter,.. not as good at finishing.

MidMazar, the exhaust tips were done by hand. I try to avoid using power tools because of my tendency to screw things up when electricity gets involved. The casting marks were filed off, then the porous surface was sanded smooth with 600. I then used #0000 steel wool, then a soft rag to polish them into shape. I noticed in the photos of a book a friend loaned me for this project that the snap tips are actually removable covers over the actual exhaust tips. So I drilled a .1" seat in the casting, then took some .1" K&S tubing and chamfered the inside radius with a #11 blade. I then roll cut it to a length I could locate inside the snap tip with a dab of epoxy and flat black wash. After finishing the tips I even managed a decent looking carb trumpet using a a piece of wire to expand the outer edge into a flair shape. It looked pretty good but I doubt I could make 5 more exactly the same size.

Work continues on "the Beast". I got the ride height set last night and plan to do some door jam work tonight. I'll post some pics when I have something worth showing.

Beautiful!!!

Great start, I want to see more, so please keep us posted.

Keep the great work!

As always, ferrari projects like this never fail to make me drool!!!
let's see with all the expensive goodies, how this build will turns out.

I've made some progress with the SWB this week. Ive tried to concentrate on getting the basic parts to fit together. Being an offshoot of the Gunze GTO kit, the SWB shares many pieces so even without the mods I'm doing there would be fit issues.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt020.jpg
I managed to raise the chassis about 3mm to get the ride height closer to scale. It seems cars from this era were really high. If you look at the first post in the thread there is a pic of the real car. Look at the tires relative to the fenders and how high the body sits relative to the ground you'll see what I mean. I notice the E-Type is like this too. Funny how the car got smaller as it was raised. I guess it's a perception thing. I also roughed up the body with some steel wool. Other than one minor sink around the rear license plate which was filled with a drop of CA, the body had no issues. (Almost makes up for all the crappy stuff in this kit.)
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt021.jpg
Sorry about the quality of this picture. I was trying to show the scratch work I've started on the door jam. I still need to add some filler and sand in a graceful curve at the bottom corner. At final assembly there will be a tiny lip around the entire jamb painted the upholstery color - probably black. I'm trying to decide on the body color between dark blue, blue metallic, pewter metallic or possibly red. As someone reminded me recently, when building a "typical" Ferrari always try to do something other than red because so many times you won't have any other choice.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt022.jpg
This shot shows the dash fitting to the firewall and body. I really struggled to get this piece to fit. I ended up lowering it about 2mm and eliminating the front windshield and everything snapped into place. The front windshield is 1/8" thick and looks like it was chiseled from a rock! I'll substitute a piece of acetate in it's place. The rear glass isn't bad and I may be able to use it. The plan for right now is to pose the doors with the glass rolled down and just a small strip of glass (acetate) exposed.

I've also been working on door hinges. I have a hinge that works but is kinda bulky so I'm downsizing it. I realize this doesn't look like much in the way of progress but I've got to get the parts correct before any color can be applied. By the way, reading some of the WIP's I recall some folks having problems holding heavy metal parts together while dry-fitting. I'm using rubber cement on little stuff and white glue on suspension etc to temporarily assemble most of the parts. White glue holds stong enough to support a heavy model but peels off with a couple of flicks with a #11 blade. A few plastic parts had to be welded together with a drop or two of solvent.

It looks good!

For the color yellow and red suits this car best, IMHO. Blue can be OK too if it's not a dark shade.

Thanks for the suggestions Jano, I've got a while before I have to commit to anything. I've pretty much decided against the the metallics because they just don't seem to fit the period to me. I'm focusing on a solid blue right now close to Tamiya XF-8, maybe a bit lighter. I want a color that is dark enough to make the chrome pop. Thats why I'm hesitant with silver, the chrome just disappears.

Here's another update picture. Success at last with a door hinge design that put the rotation point where it belongs without rubbing the the leading edge of the door skin against the body. I've discovered door hinges are tough, especially getting the leading edge to tuck into the body in a scale-like fashion. After scrapping a clunky aluminum tube and plastic attempt I built a new set from .003 brass sheet and 1/32 wire for the pin.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt026.jpg

Below is a photo of an SWB Ferrari hood hinge. Since the hood will be open on this model most of the time the underside of the hood deserved a bit more detail than I would normally do. I added some strip for frame and hood hinge brackets. The hood hinge was made from straight pins and aluminum tubing. It was actually pretty easy compared to the door. My only concern is radiator swing clearance.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt024.jpg

I still need to complete the passenger side door hinge and adjust everything before I can begin primering but having that door working is a big milestone for me.

You did a wonderful job with the door and hood hinges.
I'm thinking about doing the same on the Italeri I'm preparing right now (in fact it will be a model built using Gunze chassis and suspension and Italeri engine, body and interior).

Some blue 250 GT Ferraris (not SWB Berlinetta's):
http://www.anamera.com/en/detail/car/30007/index.html?no_cache=1&ret=63
http://www.anamera.com/en/detail/car/33859/index.html?no_cache=1&ret=63
http://www.anamera.com/en/detail/car/23477/index.html?no_cache=1&ret=63
Maybe it helps you with the color choice.

Anyway I'm following your project with interest!

Wow excellent job so far.
Can you get some pictures of your door hinges?
I need to make some for my cobra.
Chris

Thanks for those reference pictures Jano. I'm glad I don't have to commit to a final color for a while. The Lusso is closest to the color I was thinking of but who knows...

Builder, I'm regretting not taking more photo's of my hinge fabrication. I assumed it would put folks to sleep. I'm still new at this "build thread" stuff so have patience. I just learned photo editing a day ago!

Maybe this will help:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt037.jpg
I built my hinges using brass sheet and wire but you could make it from coke can aluminum and a straight pin or whatevers on hand. Don't use ca glue on the hinge flaps though. It will wick into the hinge mechanism and destroy your work.

I needed a little break from bodywork and decided to do another finish piece as a temporary change of pace. Anyone that has been in these old Ferrari interiors is instantly attracted to the composite wooden Nardi steering wheel. They just seem to convey everything great about the artisanal craftsmanship of that lost era. I've been thinking of a way to replicate the Nardi wheel in miniature for a while. My intent was to first attempt it in 1/12 or larger scale but what the heck...

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt033.jpg
I first layed out a graphical depiction of the composite wheel, then made a 1mm aluminum ring from an annealed coke can. I then used boxwood strip to make 8 little pieces to fit around the circumference of the rim.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt039.jpg
The hard part was sanding the inner radius and keeping the shape round as I slowly sanded away 90% of the wood and even some of the aluminum ring. Although the structure is remarkably strong I did manage to fold it up into a taco at one point. It straightened out and realigned without too much trouble.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt036.jpg
It has exceeded my expectations to say the least. It began merely as an experiment but after about 4 hours of labor this tiny part is showing promise. I still need to thin it down a bit more and add a little stain to bring out the grain but definitely something I will do again.

That steering wheel is VERY impressive!

Very nice job on the steering wheel! :thumbsup:
I'll try it out when I'll build my Berlinetta.

Uber-cool!!! :thumbsup:

I've been wanting to try that myself - thanks for showing it is possible rather than buy the RMoM(?) wooden wheel. First class job :worshippy

Thanks for the information on the hinges.
That wheel is amazing.
Chris

Nice work on both the hinges and the steering wheel.

I will definitely try the method you used for the steering wheel. One question on the wood. Can I use balsa rather than the boxwood or is it the same?:)

That steering wheel is truly a work of art!

Nice work on both the hinges and the steering wheel.

I will definitely try the method you used for the steering wheel. One question on the wood. Can I use balsa rather than the boxwood or is it the same?:)

Thanks for the support guys! It really helps keep me motivated on such a long project. Druid, sorry about taking so long to respond to your question, I missed it somehow over the holidays. I prefer boxwood for such tiny work because, being a slow growing plant, the wood is very dense and the grain is very small. The problem I have found with balsa is that the grain is too large and the structure to porous to look good in such small sizes. If you are having trouble locating boxwood strip Model Expo has it. They cater to the wooden ship crowd. The stuff I used was 1/8" x 1/32" strip.

Edit: After thinking about this more I think one could use basswood with good results also. I think Norm uses mahogany in his R&MM wheel kits and may be a bit dark for that honey-colored Nardi look. A tiny strip of mahogany inlaid within the boxwood would be the ultimate in scale fidelity but I can't for the life of me figure out how it could be done with precision. Here's a link to the wood strip at Model Expo: http://www.modelexpo-online.com/search.asp?PAGLEN=20&STARTPAGE=1&FNM=34&UID=2009010414292186&SKW=strip&B1.x=13&B1.y=14

Time for an update. I've been working on the R&MM engine mostly. Engines are my favorite thing in the world and this has to be the nicest one I've ever had the privilege of constructing in this scale. The pieces are remarkable and the details very accurate in comparison with my reference material.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt046-1.jpg
The block was sprayed with Model Master aluminum plate and weathered with Pollyscale oily black. I also shot the carb trumpets with aluminum plate, then rubbed in some S&J powder as Norm suggested in the instructions. He mentioned to me once that he wrote the instructions years before many of the current products were available and to substitute modern equivalents where appropriate. So far, I haven't needed to and I've learned some (many really) new techniques from that little instruction set! The carburetor bodies were brushed with Model Master Jet Exhaust lightened with silver, then the whole was weathered with oily black. The little brass fitting for the inlet filter was singled out for a dab of mixed Testor's copper/flat black.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt041.jpg
Here is a shot of the engine in the car to check for hood clearance before attaching the carbs permanently. I measured for this when I modified the chassis engine mounts but it doesn't hurt to take a moment to verify. The carbs really came to life when I added the tiny venturi's to the inside of the trumpets. It's common to see this part a bit out of scale because roll cutting makes the wall thickness more pronounced. Before roll cutting each off the stock I squared the pretty end with a file, then machined the inside diameter with a #11 blade until there was no discernible wall thickness remaining. Then I roll cut the part and installed it with a dab of white glue using a piece of wire as an alignment tool. Be very careful pressing them into the bore and use a soft instrument like a toothpick. Otherwise you could dent the rim and have to start all over.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt040.jpg
Another shot of the R&MM engine. It's a kit in itself and I think every Ferrari modeler should build one. Mind you I still have yet to install the throttle linkage, fuel line plumbing, distibutors, ignition looms, generator, coils, etc, etc ,etc, etc....

This is rather impressive stuff. I'll definitely stay tuned, having the feeling that one can learn a thing or two from you. Keep up the progress!

Excellent update!
The engine looks very nice up to now. Keep it up and keep us updated! :)

Wow. Wow! The engine is beautiful! I've been waiting to see the RMoM motor built up. It looks fantastic. You've done a superb job on it!

Your hinges and opening bits are great. Your building skills are phenomenal. I love your steering wheel. I am amazed that you're able to do that at 1:24. It just boggles! I kind of want to try it just to try it; not much that I build uses a wooden steering wheel but that looks like such a fun challenge that I might try it. That's just stunning and I don't know if I could actually make it come out.

It's always a thrill when a new member comes in and surprises with fantastic skill and great talent. I can't wait to see this come together!!

Thanks for the kind and welcoming thoughts everyone. There are quite a few impressive builders on this forum raising the bar. I've been really stretching to the bleeding edge of my skills on this build which I have to think is a good thing.

Back to the build. I'm working on the notorius RMM throttle linkage the last couple of days and just about have it licked. I started out building it to the letter of the instructions.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt055.jpg
Here is what the photoetch bits for the throttle shaft bearings start out looking like. After assembling the three pieces of etch the holes are reamed out. The next step is to slide them on the shaft and glue them to the engine. Once thats done, the two mounting holes in each bracket are used as guides to drill into the cam cover and sink a pair of Grandt bolts. Nothin' to it, right? This is the point where my head began spinning around and spraying puke on all the walls! The brackets kept popping off - start over. Once past that I couldn't for the life of me get those dang bolts in the tiny little holes. Argh!!!

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt082.jpg
So here is my solution. Thread the bolts into the brackets BEFORE mounting the brackets to the cam cover.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt079.jpg
Tah Dah! Finished brackets in 20 minutes after fighting the other way for 4 hellish hours. (Those planning to build this engine might scribble a note in their instructions about this.)

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt087.jpg
Here the brackets are shown painted on the engine with the Grandt bolts installed and no one knows I cheated (Well except you guys reading this post that is).

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt086.jpg
So now it was on to more small scale lunacy with the links to the throttle bodies fabricated. The little black pieces represent ball-link keepers and are cut from wire insulation, expanded with a straight pin and slipped onto the shafts. They'll be painted silver but I kept them black so they would photograph. The little spring was made from a strand of the copper wire removed from the insulation used to make the ball-link keepers. It was just wrapped around a 0.01" rod and slipped off. Kinda cool hugh? I told you this engine was awesome!

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt092.jpg
And here finally is the entire assembly so far. The middle carb started my head spinning again until I remembered I have a loop light with a magnifier that put a ton of light right where I needed it. It was still kinda like finding a gnat sphincter with a railroad spike but everything went together eventually.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt093.jpg
I measured for the last bend in each link individually by hooking the finished end in the carb and dabbing a tiny amount of white paint on the unfinished end where the bend needed to be. No way could I get a ruler in there!
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt095.jpg
I've still yet to mount the return spring or accelerator cable bracket and unfortunately 2/3's of this linkage is going to eventually be obscured by the fuel rail which fits onto the carbs just above it. One last comment. Make sure when building the SWB version of this engine that the intake manifold is slid as far forward in the valley as possible so the linkage lines up properly with all the other bits on the engine. The instructions aren't explicit on this so I centered it and wound up about 0.5mm too far back.

Looks good. I know from experience these engine kits are hard to put together. You're doing a great job.

Great work with the engine. I've built couple of these and "cheated" just like you :) You have made one small error that can cause some problems in the future. The cooling water lines that run to the back end of the block should be a lot closer to the engine behind the block. Please take a look at this picture (http://www.ferraris-online.com/pages/imgview.php?reqcardir=FE-250PF-1969&imgnum=P099) to get a better idea what i mean.

-Niko

Looks great so far

Thanks guys! Niko, what on earth are you talking about? Whats wrong with my waterline?

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt097.jpg

Slow progress today but got the lower ignition wires into the guides and spark plug cavities without much resistance. Oh, and I fixed the glaring error in the rear waterline. Thanks for the heads up Niko. It would have been more difficult to fix once the distributors are in place.

Dude, this looks unbelievable! I really like your attention to detail.
I cannot wait to see this continue.

When I the very first picture of a finished car, I thought that was your model. Now that I see this detail, I realize your model will very well end up looking just like your first picture of the real thing!

Keep it up!
Andy

Now I understand why you did not start on the F40 TK yet :rofl:.....stunning job you did on this one! I love the steering wheel and the engine is a little gem

Ton

Great looking engine! :thumbsup:

FINALLY, I'm finished with the engine...Well, at least as much as I can do until the chassis and firewall are further along. This engine has been a great experience. It just kept getting more fun with every part I added.

I somehow had the foresight to scribble a note to myself years ago in the instructions to set the carb locations front to back using the fuel rail as a guide. Thank goodness I did. That part fit perfect. The yellow fuel line was enhanced by wrapping silver thread around a 30 gage piece of wire. I also had some compression fittings on-hand to enhance the fuel line.

I bmf'd the tops of the crankcase breathers and dabbed a bit of smoke into the serrations. I may tone them down a bit later. They seem kinda bright. More fun with Grandt bolts on the generator mounts but things went much better this time. I've been making engine noises like a kid every time I look at it. What a great engine kit! Norm Veber and Replica's & Miniatures of Maryland made one fine engine...Enough talk, here's some pics:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt101.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt102.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt103.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt107.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt109.jpg

On that scale you did a really superb job!

Ton

Well it's been ages since my last update to this thread. I have been working on the model and taking quick pics along the way. My goal is to have it finished for a contest in San Antonio on the 21st. Only 2 weeks...

Gunze plastic is very brittle and I'm pushing it by opening up the body as I did. After breaking and repairing the A-pillars more times than I can remember I finally got smart and reinforced them with fine copper wire emersed in thick CA applied with the head of a pin. No more breaks and I can get back to building.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt200.jpg


I debated over color for some time but ultimately decided it should be Ferrari RED. Finish was 3 coats Duplicolor white primer, 3 coats of TS-7 Italian Red knocked down with 6000, 1 thick coat of DuPont 2K ChromaClear, MicroMesh to 12000, and final polish with 3M Finesse-It II. Lotsa work! The rubber for the windshield was painted in prior to clear coating.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt213.jpg


This photo shows the scratch built door upholstery being made to fit together. Panels are built-up styrene sheet sprayed with Tamiya primer, TS-29, then TS-6 for that cheap vinyl stretched over cardboard look. Window crank is a bent straight pin with roll-cut aluminum tube and 00-90 washer for bezel. The door handle was fabricated from aluminum wire with a needle file and steel wool, then drilled from the back for a length of straight pin. The other door handle is just about to be cut from the wire. (Kinda basic interior for 4.5 million bucks!:eek7: )
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt010.jpg


Here's a neat trick I discovered recently. I cook a lot and tried sharpening my exacto blades with the Heinckels sharpener I use for my cutlery. Since I cut a lot of metal and stuff I've begun using this tool constantly.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt059-1.jpg

This is looking excellent.
Superb detailing work on the door panels :thumbsup:

The rubber for the windshield was painted in prior to clear coating.


That rubber is not meant to be shinny. I would have painted it only after the shinny clear coat.

The paint on the body is impressive, and door is very nicely detailed. :thumbsup:

That rubber is not meant to be shinny. I would have painted it only after the shinny clear coat.

Well, to be completely accurate, only part of that trim is rubber, the core is chrome strip, and the rest is rubber seal. The best way to reproduce it accurately is to scribe the trim a bit deeper with the scriber prior to painting, then paint, clearcoat, add chrome strip using chrome BMF, then fill in the "panel" line with flat black, thus imitating the rubber seal.

Well, to be completely accurate, only part of that trim is rubber, the core is chrome strip, and the rest is rubber seal. The best way to reproduce it accurately is to scribe the trim a bit deeper with the scriber prior to painting, then paint, clearcoat, add chrome strip using chrome BMF, then fill in the "panel" line with flat black, thus imitating the rubber seal.

Yep, the rubber seal will have to be flat black, thus my above post.

PS: Is it my memory or on the rear windshield of the SWB's only the chrome surrounding is visible?

I should have mentioned, I'm attempting something different here with the rubber gaskets and it may wind up biting me. But like Klutz says,"Always try something new". My thought behind painting the rubber before clear was to get a super-smooth area to lay down the chrome foil. I will then go back over the exposed black with with Flat Clear to make it dull neoprene rubber again once the chrome foil is burnished down. Or so the theory goes...

The rubber gasket is nearly as wide as the stainless surround! The back window is the same.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/587001-4.jpg

I should have mentioned, I'm attempting something different here with the rubber gaskets and it may wind up biting me. But like Klutz says,"Try something different". My thought behind painting the rubber before clear was to get a super-smooth area to lay down the chrome foil. I will then go back over the exposed black with with Flat Clear to make it dull neoprene rubber again once the chrome foil is burnished down. Or so the theory goes...

The rubber gasket is nearly as wide as the stainless surround! The back window is the same.


Interesting idea!
Looking forward to see how it turns out. :)

PS: Sorry to go off topic but I just discovered that fnally the edit button works with Firefox 3.

Work continues on the SWB at a frantic pace. I've been focusing attention on the body, window glass, grille and other high vis knick knacks before launching into the final push on the dash and interior.

True to form with Gunze, nothing ever fits. The grille was assembled over an outline of the opening and each slat was filed down or switched around to get the best fit possible. The front windshield was somehow saved and made to fit by filing, heating, and polishing. The door window glass was originally going to be in the lowered position but no way would the brittle plastic survive without support so each window and vent was hand cut from acetate to fit into the opening before adding the foiling around the perimeter. I'm quite satisfied with the final fit of most every component including the doors and hood which have not been final attached yet.

Please keep in mind these are fast snap shots of a dusty model with an inexpensive Kodak EasyShare camera.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt223.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt225.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt218.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt221.jpg

Seems the like Gunze grille is too round for a SWB. Great work so far. I've really enjoyed this thread!

She looks very good! Keep these pictures coming

Looks great! :)

PS: Is it just my eyes giving up or the real wheel arch vents and the one on the roof aren't open?

This one looks excellent. I admire your work on the chrome surroundings of the windows. And the doorfit is awesome.

Please darken the door and front hood gaps...(you know what I´m talking about!)

Keep up the great work.


Robert

Awesome work! More updates please.

such a gorgeous car, I really need to pick a kit of it up.

Seems the like Gunze grille is too round for a SWB. Great work so far. I've really enjoyed this thread!

Yea, that oval shaped grille kinda bothers me too. After considering all the other things I wanted to do here (engine, doors, wheels..) I figured I'd learn to live with it. It's really not that noticeable unless you stick the camera in the grille like I did in that low close-up.

PS: Is it just my eyes giving up or the real wheel arch vents and the one on the roof aren't open?

Yep, it's your eyes Jano. You should have those checked. (My pics are so blurry I'm surprised anyone is still viewing this thread!) Seriously, the vents on the SWB were closed off in front and back. Only narrow slits were present in the blanking plates (3 inline slits front, 2 back). So the front being open is less accurate than the back. The roof vent should have a tiny slit also .3 mm wide (about a #80 drill width). If anyone has a good way to make all those tiny slits I'd love to hear it!

This one looks excellent. I admire your work on the chrome surroundings of the windows. And the doorfit is awesome.
Please darken the door and front hood gaps...(you know what I´m talking about!)
Keep up the great work.

Thanks! This has involved the most foiling I've done to date on a model and honestly I still don't feel I'm that good at it. I used Bare Metal "Chrome" on the surrounds to simulate stainless steel and I used Bare Metal "Ultra-Brite Chrome" on the marker light bezels and hood trim. The ultra looks better but seems much thicker than the regular stuff in my experience.

That black rubber trick is difficult to spot with my amateur photography but in real person there is a clear ring of flat black rubber between the foil and the window glass. It makes the brightwork seem less bulky than if I had extended the foil to the glass. I'm still learning this area and have some things to try on the next model for sure.

The door and front hood gaps really turned out better than I expected. When I cut the body up I used the backward blade technique which cuts a trench to separate the parts. This can lead to some pretty wide gaps if you try to use all the plastic hood and door parts as I did. Fearing having a scale 2" wide panel gap I mixed my clear kinda thick and hoped for a miracle! The panel gaps are now just about right but it's just a stopgap trick (pun intended) until I learn something else.

Great work! How did you hinge the doors? I'd be curious to see since I'm planning on doing a full blown SWB from Hiro kit one day.

Yep, it's your eyes Jano. You should have those checked. (My pics are so blurry I'm surprised anyone is still viewing this thread!) Seriously, the vents on the SWB were closed off in front and back. Only narrow slits were present in the blanking plates (3 inline slits front, 2 back). So the front being open is less accurate than the back. The roof vent should have a tiny slit also .3 mm wide (about a #80 drill width). If anyone has a good way to make all those tiny slits I'd love to hear it!

Bloody typo, I wanted to type "rear" and type "real" instead. :headshake

I knew the real car has 3 little slits in every vent, but I was not sure if they are or not done on your model.
And yeah it would be tricky to make them. The easiest way being to open them up completely and use PE parts fro the inside.

Great work! How did you hinge the doors? I'd be curious to see since I'm planning on doing a full blown SWB from Hiro kit one day.

Funny you should ask Alex. The door hinges were the most difficult part of the build by far. After two or three tries I gave up and looked to your GTO doors for inspiration. It uses shim brass hinges and separate forward jambs. The tricky part was making the forward jamb fit between the door and dash and still be able to attach under the A-pillar. I used strips of brass bent at 90 degrees for brackets. Maybe a picture or two will help. Pardon the mess, these shots show how the sausage is being made!
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt233.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt229.jpg

The gunze window surround was incredibly fragile and I even considered trying to fabricate a new one out of aluminum wire filed to a rectangular cross-section but figured it was beyond me. Despite the thicker resin body, the Hiro should be a bit easier in two regards: the '60 competition car they chose to model has no vent window to worry about, and once the door is cut away the remaining jamb is already there. I like the way you did the hinge on the Boxer your currently working on. The jamb on the Hiro SWB should have enough meat to do the same design and would be more elegant than what I did here.

At this point I feel like I'm building two separate models at the same time. I've been scratch building pedals and upholstery this morning and I finally got the rear exhaust on the chassis. Oh, that reminds me I haven't posted a picture of the chassis lately! (That GTO radiator is just visiting.)
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt235.jpg

Funny you should ask Alex. The door hinges were the most difficult part of the build by far. After two or three tries I gave up and looked to your GTO doors for inspiration. It uses shim brass hinges and separate forward jambs. The tricky part was making the forward jamb fit between the door and dash and still be able to attach under the A-pillar. I used strips of brass bent at 90 degrees for brackets. Maybe a picture or two will help. Pardon the mess, these shots show how the sausage is being made!
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt233.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt229.jpg

The gunze window surround was incredibly fragile and I even considered trying to fabricate a new one out of aluminum wire filed to a rectangular cross-section but figured it was beyond me. Despite the thicker resin body, the Hiro should be a bit easier in two regards: the '60 competition car they chose to model has no vent window to worry about, and once the door is cut away the remaining jamb is already there. I like the way you did the hinge on the Boxer your currently working on. The jamb on the Hiro SWB should have enough meat to do the same design and would be more elegant than what I did here.


Ahh, ok :-) I'm just trying to see every possible way to hinge these doors. I'm learning more and more with every version I see :-)
thanks! Chassis looks terrific btw.

Really nice... loving the engine detail and the exhausts..

I really like that chassis-shot. I´m wondering - Will you connect the exhaust inlet at the engine with the exhausttips at the end of your build??

I´d like to see that done!


Robert

I really like that chassis-shot. I´m wondering - Will you connect the exhaust inlet at the engine with the exhausttips at the end of your build??

I´d like to see that done!


Robert
My camera seems to like a white background. I think I'll start doing all my shots that way. The exhausts will be connected to the headers as one of the last steps. I have everything drilled and will fabricate them from soft solder. Stay tuned...

Well it looks like I'm going to make my deadline afterall barring an unexpected disaster (Is there any other kind?). I've still got to come up with a convincing door strike plate for the jamb but feel good with how the doors turned out. Alignment, gaps and even swing angle exceeded all my expectations. They open very easily with just a nudge at the leading edge of the door. Now onto the dash and wooden steering wheel. I have a lot of work to do in order to make the Gunze parts closer to scale.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt245.jpg
The door jamb was trimmed out with the cardboard stiffener material that came with the sheet of photoetch and the scuff plate was made from some soft K&S aluminum sheet.

Looks really good - more pictures please!

Looks really good - more pictures please!
Here are some more pics to help show what I have so far. I'm starting to panic a bit at all the things I have left to complete: door handles, wipers, radiator, dash, front shocks, coils,.........I promise I'll take a boat load of pictures after this weekend when I have more time and can clean the model. Some of the shots are a little dark because of dust and the thing is kinda shiney so my flash washes out the center of the shot.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt248.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt253.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt254.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt257.jpg

Nice! Good luck at the show!

Lovely build :thumbsup:

Is the steering wheel from RMoM?

Looks great! :thumbsup:


Is the steering wheel from RMoM?

I think the PE is from the kit and he made the wood surounds himself. You will find it in the first pages of this thread.

I think the PE is from the kit and he made the wood surounds himself. You will find it in the first pages of this thread.
Ah sh*t - I'm so dumb! :loser:
So it was THIS thread where I saw that! LOL
Thanks Ioan :thumbsup:

Really nicely done !!!

Robi :)

Lovely build :thumbsup:

Is the steering wheel from RMoM?

Thanks everyone! The wheel rim was scratched with boxwood and aluminum earlier in the thread. I used an insect pin for the turn lever and a Hiro cloissonne for the horn button. The wheel center and etched spokes came in the Gunze kit and were filed down to look closer to scale(though still too big!).

Here is my latest tangent..It's a headliner made from polyester dress liner building on a fabric tape method I saw Alex do. I'm using foil adhesive to hold it down and it's going better than expected. The foil adhesive is just agressive enough to hold it but allows you to peel it back and reposition. Back to the build....
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20250%20SWB/swbfrt265.jpg

Great Model!!!. I saw your model at the San Antonio show and it's even better in person. Congratulations on completing such an outstanding model.

Nice, so, did you win? Come on, spill the beans!

Great Model!!!. I saw your model at the San Antonio show and it's even better in person. Congratulations on completing such an outstanding model.

Thanks! I enjoyed meeting and talking with you at the show.
Nice, so, did you win? Come on, spill the beans!

Alamo Squadron put on a great show Alex. The Ferrari SWB took 1st in Exotics Category and Best Automotive against some stiff competition. Considering how much I rushed the last part of this build I'm lucky to have done so well. Best of Show went to a Japanese aircraft called a Shinden.

My polyester fabric for the headliner kinda bit me in the buttocks as well. Some frayed strands started showing up in the rear window at the show. I need to somehow stabilize the cut edges or just try something different.

Good morning at all. I'm looking for the R&MM site, for the same engine, i think. I'have a Ferrari 250 TR 1/24 Hasegawa,so i would like to build the engine of R&MM....can you help me ?
I'm sorry for my bad english...I'm italian.

Thanks at all

Nero,
Norm Veber is the owner and artist behind these great engine kits. You can order any of his detail kits directly. Email him at normveber@aol.com . Good luck to you.

One of my favourite Ferrari's...I'd love to get hold of this kit! love the progress

For my opinion you did a wonderful job with this model and gave us a lot of tips how to deal with some parts. Thank you! This build was astonishing!

Sorry Create cruncher, but the mail normveber@aol.com (http://it.mc285.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=normveber@aol.com) dont 'exist...Are you shure ?
Thankks

My apologies Nero. I gave you the wrong email address. Norman Veber is the owner of the company.

Here's what you need:

replmincomd@aol.com
Replicas & Miniatures Company of Maryland
317 Roosevelt Ave. S.W.
Glen Burne, MD 21061
USA
(410) 768-3648

Norm is the best resin producer I've ever seen but his marketing is non-existent. He doesn't have a website or a catalog. But if you do a search of the company name you can find photo's of his offerings sprinkled around the internet. According to Norm, "everything is available".

For my opinion you did a wonderful job with this model and gave us a lot of tips how to deal with some parts. Thank you! This build was astonishing!

Thank you Buggy, I'm glad you enjoyed it. The model was finished some time ago. I will be taking some more photo's and posting them in the Completed Model section.