89 350tpi Formula having low end power issues

Ok, I recently moved out to Vail Colorado, I drove my 89 formula out here from Chicago IL. My car was fine wen i moved out here but it seemed like as soon as i hit the mountains, I lost low end power. ex. my car used to break them loose from a stop now it wont. I was wondering if someone could help me out on what the problem might be. I am thinking either the mass airflow sensor, timing, or the throttle positioning sensor. Please help!!! thank you:banghead:

Most likely the change in altitiute is playing a factor, you may need to do some tuning.

Try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes or so and then take it for a spin and see how it does.

thanks for the tips. If it is the altitude, what do you suggest i do?

yeah the whole battery thing didnt work out

Start checking for vacuum leaks, high altitude will make the effects of them much worse. Being a MAF system you shouldn't need to do any retune for the altitude, the MAF sensor reads the actual air coming in, not "guessed" from a table.

Start checking for vacuum leaks, high altitude will make the effects of them much worse. Being a MAF system you shouldn't need to do any retune for the altitude, the MAF sensor reads the actual air coming in, not "guessed" from a table.

Alright sounds good i'l get back to ya in a few dayz. thank you

yeah i dont have any vacumm leaks. Im completely flustered with what could be wrong with it

One other simple thing to try. Ohm out each injector cold and then hot. you are looking for 15-17 ohms AND no injector should be .5 ohms difference from any other one. If you still have the factory injectors they are Multec's and they are considered garbage. Even the people that do cleanings & repair on injectors won't touch them...it isn't a matter of IF they will fail, it is a matter of WHEN they will fail.

If that all checks good....do you have a laptop with a serial port? You'd need to data log it and see what is going on. I have schematics for a simple ALDL cable and a freebee scanning program that works quite well.
Oh, and as an experiment, check your timing and be sure it is at 6* BTDC with the EST wire (brown) disconnected. If it isn't, get it there and try again. If it is at 6* try retarding it 2* and see if that helps. If not, try advancing it 2* and see if that helps. If advancing it does help, take it another 2* and see if it improves more, if it does, leave it there at 10*.

thanks, ill check it out. Another question or problem i have is lastnight i think i broke the posi rear end that i have. only one tire was spinning and i heard a slight grinding, i know i messed something up whether it be the gears or the ring and pinoin. if so, where can i get a cheap replacement?

thanks, ill check it out. Another question or problem i have is lastnight i think i broke the posi rear end that i have. only one tire was spinning and i heard a slight grinding, i know i messed something up whether it be the gears or the ring and pinoin. if so, where can i get a cheap replacement?
When you go around a corner (90*) does the rear end kind of shudder or jump sideways?

umm honestly, kinda scared to drive it now. i dont want to mess anything else up.

When you go around a corner (90*) does the rear end kind of shudder or jump sideways?

Alright, so i drove it today and it did not seem like it did any of that. It's kinda weird actually, like sometimes both tires spin and then at other times only one. I know for a fact that i have a POSI rear end so this has me flustered. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Alright, so i drove it today and it did not seem like it did any of that. It's kinda weird actually, like sometimes both tires spin and then at other times only one. I know for a fact that i have a POSI rear end so this has me flustered. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Ok, that seems good. You need to drain the differential fluid and refill it AND add a bottle of GM limited slip lubricant (get it at any GM parts counter). After that try it and see how it does.