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00 Driver's side window won't go down


db234
11-10-2008, 10:41 PM
For some time my driver's side window refuses to go down, intermittently. It works for a few days, then it doesn't. When it works it goes down easily(?). So far no problem with it going back up. Other times, nothing. I've thought it was the switch and finally bought a new one a few days ago. Installed the new switch Saturday. No luck. Today, Monday, the window goes up and down OK. The passenger door has not been a problem.

Some time back I looked at the internals but forget what I tried and it didn't help. I ended having to buy a number of trim retainers to put the door cover back.

Looking back at older threads suggests something like this is common.

Driver's side window switch
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=889498

Switch disassembly
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=697221

Removing circuit board in switch
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=737523

Driver side window problem
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=501515

Possible solutions?
a) Replace door switch - done, didn't help
b) Connections at the back of the switch - worth looking at
c) Wiring in door, connection with window motor - more involved and probably will result in damaged trim retainers...
d) Wiring under passenger floor carpet - not sure about this, wiring in driver's door should be enough
e) Lubricate window slide with silicon spray - easy to try but doesn't appear to the problem. The window doesn't move at all or works 'easily'.

Any current thoughts on this problem and my potential solutions?

Thanks

roadrunner2
11-10-2008, 11:00 PM
Look forward to buying some more trim clips.

I was lucky when I took the drivers door panel off my '00 Silhouette. I didn't lose any.

The fault may be that there is a bad connection at the window regulator plug.

You'll have to test for continuity here. Activate the switch when testing.

db234
11-11-2008, 12:18 AM
Look forward to buying some more trim clips.

Yes, I've done that once already. About 12. Maybe the newer ones can be re-used.

I was lucky when I took the drivers door panel off my '00 Silhouette. I didn't lose any.

The fault may be that there is a bad connection at the window regulator plug.

You'll have to test for continuity here. Activate the switch when testing.

Thanks, sound like a good place to start

JabbaTHutt
11-14-2008, 02:03 AM
I have an 03 montana and the drivers window did the same thing, I poped the panel out of the armwrest , took the plugs off and took the switch apart, it was a little loose, put it back together and its tight and has been fine for a few months now.

db234
11-14-2008, 10:33 AM
I have an 03 montana and the drivers window did the same thing, I poped the panel out of the armwrest , took the plugs off and took the switch apart, it was a little loose, put it back together and its tight and has been fine for a few months now.

Interesting, a new switch didn't help me but maybe it's the connection to the switch. Haven't had a chance to play in that area yet. Maybe tomorrow.

Blue Bowtie
11-15-2008, 10:53 AM
Did you get a good look at the switch contacts?

http://72.19.213.157/files/WindowSwitchDetail.jpg

db234
11-15-2008, 12:50 PM
Did you get a good look at the switch contacts?

That doesn't look good. No I haven't got into the old switch. At this point I don't think it is the switch. The new switch has the same symptoms. That is, works some days and not others.

Update: I put a multimeter on the leads coming out of the switch and the wires to the driver's window are active. Interesting, short voltage with a quick push and sustained voltage with a full push (auto down). It looks like the switch and plugs at the switch are OK.

I pulled the side panel but didn't explore much more... I'll leave that for later. I need to explore the other end of the thick brown and thin grey wire. [just checked the circuit diagram in my Haynes manual] Aaah, looks like I checked the wrong wires. Brown and Dark Blue go the window motor. Of course, I saw the brown / dark blue going into the motor ;-) but didn't check voltage at those leads. I'll check the voltage out of the brown / dark blue wires out of the switch since that is easy, leave inside the door (again) for later.

Another update: Voltage across the thick brown and dark blue went positive with a push and negative for a pull. No sustained voltage though?? [BTW the thin grey wire goes to the illumination lamps]

A friend has said motors can get a dead spot on them, that is they don't start up if on these spots. My guess, if the wires show voltage is that I need a new motor?

Any thoughts.

roadrunner2
11-15-2008, 05:12 PM
db,
Pull the motor/regulator clear of the window and activate the up/down window switch.

If the gears go both directions then there is nothing wrong with the motor/regulator.

db234
11-15-2008, 05:36 PM
db,
Pull the motor/regulator clear of the window and activate the up/down window switch.

If the gears go both directions then there is nothing wrong with the motor/regulator.

You mean take the motor off the regulator? Taking the regulator (= the machinery that moves the glass using the motor?) off seems to require a special tool. I think checking the connections to the motor is first, but you are right seeing if the motor reacts would be a good next step.

roadrunner2
11-15-2008, 09:57 PM
You mean take the motor off the regulator? Taking the regulator (= the machinery that moves the glass using the motor?) off seems to require a special tool. I think checking the connections to the motor is first, but you are right seeing if the motor reacts would be a good next step.

Dang! I made out a post and got screwed up with logging in somehow so we'll try again.

Much shorter post this time though.

Yes, I pried the motor out with a small screwdriver (carefully).

Activated the switch and it only cranked one way, hmmmmm.

I used a jumper wire direct from the battery to the motor and it worked both directions. So, it's not the motor.
I pressed the motor back into place while moving the regulator up and down to engage the gears.

Off to the recycler and 3 switches later had it working again.

I see you said you have replaced the switch already eh?

db234
11-16-2008, 12:19 AM
Dang! I made out a post and got screwed up with logging in somehow so we'll try again.

Much shorter post this time though.

Yes, I pried the motor out with a small screwdriver (carefully).

Activated the switch and it only cranked one way, hmmmmm.

I used a jumper wire direct from the battery to the motor and it worked both directions. So, it's not the motor.
I pressed the motor back into place while moving the regulator up and down to engage the gears.

Off to the recycler and 3 switches later had it working again.

I see you said you have replaced the switch already eh?

Yes, I think the old switch was probably OK. I see 1A Auto has the motor at a reasonable price but I will check the wiring to the motor and the motor itself before replacing (this time - i.e. didn't really check the switch before replacing ;-)

The motor comes off will only a little prying, the Haynes manual doesn't seem to talk about just the motor. It'll probably be next weekend before I can get to it though. RR2, thanks for the info and suggestions.

roadrunner2
11-16-2008, 03:20 PM
db,
Keep an eye on the window regulator if you take the motor out as the window MAY slide down.

My problem was opposite of yours so I used my Vise-grips to clamp off the regulator in the door to hold it up.

roadrunner2
11-16-2008, 03:25 PM
db,
Keep an eye on the window regulator if you take the motor out as the window MAY slide down.

My problem was opposite of yours so I used my Vise-grips to clamp off the regulator in the door to hold it up.

(Strange the Edit button doesn't work)

Anyway, to add: the window motor on my '00 Silo was held in place with 4 plastic pressure clips. This time of year (depending where you are) they may be brittle so use care as you'll have to release 2 at the same time to remove the motor.

db234
11-16-2008, 09:25 PM
(Strange the Edit button doesn't work)

Anyway, to add: the window motor on my '00 Silo was held in place with 4 plastic pressure clips. This time of year (depending where you are) they may be brittle so use care as you'll have to release 2 at the same time to remove the motor.

Thanks for the suggestions about the regulator and the clips. Old and cold, the clips, could be quite brittle.

463
11-16-2008, 10:47 PM
and my drivers window switch contacts had a little stone in the contacts that prevented the up fuction from working.

roadrunner2
11-22-2008, 11:16 PM
Thanks for the suggestions about the regulator and the clips. Old and cold, the clips, could be quite brittle.

db,
Door window fixed?

db234
11-23-2008, 12:08 AM
db,
Door window fixed?

Not yet, busy this weekend. I should get to it over thanksgiving...

db234
11-27-2008, 08:39 PM
OK, I think I have it fixed, with a few casualties. I think I fried the new switch with my testing ;-(. I removed the trim.

Inside the door trim (http://www.boomer.org/car/v27Nov08c.jpg) Red arrow points to motor

The old switch gave the right voltage behind the switch and at the motor terminal. So no problem with the (old) switch or wires.

I removed the motor by pulling back 'three' tabs, well trying to pull back three tabs. Ended up popping one of them off (superglue to repair???)

Window motor in place (http://www.boomer.org/car/v27Nov08a.jpg) Red arrows point to tabs. Blue arrow points to the plug.

Detached, the motor worked fine

Motor removed showing gears (http://www.boomer.org/car/v27Nov08b.jpg) Red arrow points to gears.

I put plenty of lithium grease on regulator slides, top and bottom. Silicon spray on the felt glass slides. Put everything back together (hopefully the broken tab is repaired or workable) and the window works!!!

Now to look at the leaking radiator... but I may try careful watching on that one for a bit.

roadrunner2
11-27-2008, 09:29 PM
OK, I think I have it fixed, with a few casualties. I think I fried the new switch with my testing ;-(. I removed the trim.

Inside the door trim (http://www.boomer.org/car/v27Nov08c.jpg) Red arrow points to motor

The old switch gave the right voltage behind the switch and at the motor terminal. So no problem with the (old) switch or wires.

I removed the motor by pulling back 'three' tabs, well trying to pull back three tabs. Ended up popping one of them off (superglue to repair???)

Window motor in place (http://www.boomer.org/car/v27Nov08a.jpg) Red arrows point to tabs. Blue arrow points to the plug.

Detached, the motor worked fine

Motor removed showing gears (http://www.boomer.org/car/v27Nov08b.jpg) Red arrow points to gears.

I put plenty of lithium grease on regulator slides, top and bottom. Silicon spray on the felt glass slides. Put everything back together (hopefully the broken tab is repaired or workable) and the window works!!!

Now to look at the leaking radiator... but I may try careful watching on that one for a bit.

db,
Glad to see you got the window working again, but. I don't think using lithium grease on the slides was a great move (in the long run).

The grease, like WD-40, attracts dust and other foreign matter to it and MAY cause the window to bind in the slides again.

A neighbor friend gave me a spray can of something that went on moist and dried to almost a powder like substance. (Don't ask me the name of it though. I can't remember what it's called)

I hear you about the breaking plastic tab. I broke one too.

I put everything back together sans tab, ran the window up and down at least 10 times and the motor never moved.

db234
11-27-2008, 09:50 PM
db,
Glad to see you got the window working again, but. I don't think using lithium grease on the slides was a great move (in the long run).

The grease, like WD-40, attracts dust and other foreign matter to it and MAY cause the window to bind in the slides again.

A neighbor friend gave me a spray can of something that went on moist and dried to almost a powder like substance. (Don't ask me the name of it though. I can't remember what it's called)


I put the lithium grease on the horizontal beams that the regulator moves up and down. There was a little grease that looked similar on either end. There was a floating metal piece between the joints in the regulator that seemed to be sticking before the extra grease and moving. Hopefully it will stay clean in there, didn't look to be a big problem. We'll see ;-)


I hear you about the breaking plastic tab. I broke one too.

I put everything back together sans tab, ran the window up and down at least 10 times and the motor never moved.

Yeah, I ran it up and down a few times and it seemed solid??? BTW, I broke the tab near the electrical plug.

rr, thanks for your help and suggestions.

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