I bought it to drive to work , But when I stop ( autimatic) I get a shaking in the motor, Idles stays about 800 rpms, and you can feel it vibrate the car, if you put it in neutral ,it smoothens out, I've replaced cap, wire,rotor, and plugs, checked compression ,175 on all 4 , no engine lights are on, anyone have any ideas ????? thanks Jeff Also have a back door that will not open from inside or out,does anyone know how to open it so I can fix it

To start I would check the engine for any trouble codes. You can do this with a paper clip. The procedure is listed in the generation 2 manual. The manual is available for free downloading. It is stickied at the top of this forum's home page. Check for codes and report your findings here and someone should be able to give you some direction. In addition, it would be helpfull to know how many miles are on the car. Any maintainance and repair history might also be some help, if this information is available.

Mike

it has 125,000 miles on it , compression is 175 psi, new, alt,timming belt,cap,rotor.plugs, I put 135 miles on it today engine light came on , checked codes - 25 Fuel metering device (lean) thats the only code that came up , seemed like it was very doggy of the line before the light came on, any Ideas besides changing the O2 sensor????? thanks for any help,Jeff, and this is a california delivered car has 2 converters , theres 2 sensor top one is the O2 (1 wire ) and there one right below that in the coverter with 2 wires anyone know what that is???

The sensor with two wires is the sub O2 sensor found only on California cars.

Many things can cause a code 25. Here's the list of areas to check:

The injectors and injector circuits
O2 sensors and sensor circuits
The ECU
Low fuel pressure
Air flow meter
Engine coolant temp sensor and circuit
Ignition components

My daughter's 94 had a code 25 about a year ago. I lucked out and found a bad plug wire. Changed the main O2 sensor first which didn't help. That was my first choice. You can find troubleshooting procedures for all systems/components listed in the Factory Service Manual thread at the top of the forum.

I bought it to drive to work , But when I stop ( autimatic) I get a shaking in the motor, Idles stays about 800 rpms, and you can feel it vibrate the car, if you put it in neutral ,it smoothens out, I've replaced cap, wire,rotor, and plugs, checked compression ,175 on all 4 , no engine lights are on, anyone have any ideas ????? thanks Jeff Also have a back door that will not open from inside or out,does anyone know how to open it so I can fix it


summit800,

I think what your describing is that your motor mounts are in need of replacing. On my 89 Camry I had mine swaped out about 3 times in it's life and currently it starting to show signs of replacing again.


Mail Clerk

summit800,

I think what your describing is that your motor mounts are in need of replacing. On my 89 Camry I had mine swaped out about 3 times in it's life and currently it starting to show signs of replacing again.


Mail Clerk


Not at all saying it can't be motor mounts. I am wondering what were you doing to make the mounts go bad so often? I just sold my 87 in January with 240K miles on it and it still had it's original mounts. Ran as smooth as a Toyota 4 banger can run.

Not at all saying it can't be motor mounts. I am wondering what were you doing to make the mounts go bad so often? I just sold my 87 in January with 240K miles on it and it still had it's original mounts. Ran as smooth as a Toyota 4 banger can run.

I've changed 2 mounts already , and the last one made it worse, it also seems to ping on taking off from a light , seems like it doesnt do it when its cold , still gets 30 mph, no codes. It also likes to surge at slow speeds when you have your foot off the throttle,not alot of power on take off!!!

Hi guys/gals,

The 89' Camry has 4 mounts so installing only 2 means the job is only half done. Other than that I was told the motor mounts are surrounded by rubber to absork shock and they simply rot away. As the dealer told me.

When I had my first set replaced it was never the same and they just couldn't balance the engine right. Since that time I decided to have another dealership handle the issue the second time and they couldn't handle it either!!!! Now/currently I going to Longo Toyota for my services cuz Miller Toyota or Marine Del Rey kept shaking their heads evertime I came back. After a while they were just getting amoyed with my visits as I was myself in the other direction.

And these guys claim to be factory trained. What a joke.

Mail Clerk

Not sure why, but everytime when a question raised regarding engine shake, some people always say it's the "bad motor mount". Guys, motor mounts don't shake!! Their function is to provide some damping and reduce the shake. So if you feel the shake, the shake is from the engine, not the motor mounts. So, replacing the mounts is almost always wasting money. For my 88 Camry with 240K miles, I've never replace any motor mount. If I feel the engine shake, it's the engine.

From what you describe, I would suspect one cylinder doesn't work. I assume it's a 4-cylinder engine, so with 1 out, you have only 3 cylinders working, that could be the cause of the shake. That's what happened to my Camry. Take a look and let us know.

Check my first 2 post , every thing all checks out , good compression,new tune up , only does it at idle in drive , still gets 30 mpg, seams to get worse in stop and go traffic,and seam better in the morning when cold and then some times it doesnt really do it much at all????????????

Not sure why, but everytime when a question raised regarding engine shake, some people always say it's the "bad motor mount". Guys, motor mounts don't shake!! Their function is to provide some damping and reduce the shake. So if you feel the shake, the shake is from the engine, not the motor mounts. So, replacing the mounts is almost always wasting money. For my 88 Camry with 240K miles, I've never replace any motor mount. If I feel the engine shake, it's the engine.

From what you describe, I would suspect one cylinder doesn't work. I assume it's a 4-cylinder engine, so with 1 out, you have only 3 cylinders working, that could be the cause of the shake. That's what happened to my Camry. Take a look and let us know.

ProMan,

If it was one cylinder that was out then the dealership that does my work would be the sadest bunch of guys you ever seen. My belief is that it must be the the mounts. Currently I'm approaching the 240K service and so far it's been very reliable dispite the motor mount issue.

Mail Clerk

The rubber in motor mounts does age, causing embrittlement and cracking, thus ceasing to absorb the vibrations that the mounts are designed to cope with.

Even "new" mounts may have been on the shelf for a long time (albeit stored in better, controlled environment), so it is unlikely that you'll ever get that new-car smoothness again. There's also the debate on aftermarket versus OEM mounts. Though they may be "OEM replacements", aftermarket parts have been known to wear out quicker. You mention many dealers so I'd generally discount this thought in your case, but who knows where they're really getting their parts from?

That being said, other factors may contribute to increased engine shake...incorrect timing, plug fouling, worn plug wires, worn plugs, etc. I've found that just regapping and cleaning the distributor cap & rotor terminals of oxidation significantly reduces engine shake. Let's rule out the simple stuff first.

2 more mounts and all simple suff will be ruled out!!

......seems like it doesnt do it when its cold ...

Have you checked for vac leaks very carefully, especially in the intake ducting?

Check my first 2 post , every thing all checks out , good compression,new tune up , only does it at idle in drive , still gets 30 mpg, seams to get worse in stop and go traffic,and seam better in the morning when cold and then some times it doesnt really do it much at all????????????

I know you checked/replaced a lot of stuff. But that doesn't equal to the cylinders are all working. Well, do you know how to check if a cylinder works? Doesn't hurt to make sure.

Still, even if the motor mounts deteriorated, it will "transmit" instead of "absorb" vibrations. But, it's never the mount that "vibrates". And it won't cause the car to chatter at stop either. The chatter happens only at low RPM under load (in gear), which indicates the engine lost power balance and when that happen, it's more evident at low frequency. At high RPM, the chatter won't be so bad but it should be still there.

Give it a try and let us know.

I bought it to drive to work , But when I stop ( autimatic) I get a shaking in the motor, Idles stays about 800 rpms, and you can feel it vibrate the car, if you put it in neutral ,it smoothens out, I've replaced cap, wire,rotor, and plugs, checked compression ,175 on all 4 , no engine lights are on, anyone have any ideas ????? thanks Jeff Also have a back door that will not open from inside or out,does anyone know how to open it so I can fix it

your car is from 1989. just get a new car already and stop being so damn cheap. :runaround:

your car is from 1989. just get a new car already and stop being so damn cheap. :runaround:

I have a new car , this is my work car, This is what make life enjoyable and interesting, its a easy way out to just go and buy another new one,The car runs fine and get good gas milage ....it just one of those things that bothers you to fix ... and I will fix it!!!!! So why are you on here.... just go buy a new one and leave us alone