2002 Lincoln ls Has no heat

What could be the problem. I have checked the heater core by pulling off all three hoses and ran water through the heater core No clogs. One line is hot as if the anti freeze is reaching the heater core but is not cycling through, The other two lines are cool. I did a self test and pulled some codes 27 99 / 27 97 /19 47 /12 42

Welcome to the forum!

The first two codes I don't find in the factory service manual. Code 1947 means Evaporator discharge temperature sensor circuit short to ground. Code 1242 means Recirculation door actuator circuit failure.

I'd start with the Evap discharge temp sensor circuit and see where that gets you, having recently needing to replace that part on my wife's 2002 LS due to no cold air. If you turn the temp setting up all the way to 90 degrees, do you get heat?

-Rod

Thanks for the fast response. I was able to get the codes from the self test. I had to press the off and defrost together and then the auto button within two seconds. The forums said use the off and floor button followed by the auto buttun nothings happens . I do not get any heat when turned up to 90 % also there is no A/C I will need to research that problem after heat the heat is fixed, Is the evap discharge temp sensor under the dash. Thank YOU IN ADVANCE

Thanks for the correction on reading the codes. You should post a follow-up to the incorrect thread. I've heard there are different methods depending on if you have the headed and cooled seats.

The evap discharge temp sensor is under the dash, accessible from the driver's side floor once the duct and knee panel are removed. There are three identical white sensors along the side of the center assembly. My recall is the evap sensor is the one that's about halfway up. To remove them, you are supposed to unplug and rock them, don't try to twist them. I used a small flatblade pocket screwdriver to pop one dies loose, then wiggled it out. It came out pretty easy. They extend into the center assembly probably about 3 inches.

Based on the code 1947, you should check the sensor for a short. If you don't find a short, then check the wiring to see if it's shorted to ground.

-Rod

Thank you for the follow up Rod. I will take a look in to all the great info you supplied me with. I will also double check the codes . Once again Thank You in advance .

FYI, the 2799 code means "passenger coolant control valve open circuit". The 2797 code means "driver coolant control valve open circuit". Sounds like your lack of heat problem has something to do with the DCCV (dual coolant control valve) or the wiring to it. The DCCV is next to the radiator on the passenger side.

I have a different heat problem with my 2004 LS, and Rod has been helping me out on another thread. We think that we've narrowed my problem down to sensors, but I haven't had time to dig into yet. Good luck.

Thanks for the info on the codes they can be real helpful. When the valve is stuck open do you believe it's caused by the evap discharge temp sensor. Thanks you in advance.

Shorod clearly knows a lot more about this stuff than I do, but I wouldn't think a bad evap discharge temperature sensor would throw out that kind of code. A bad sensor has a code of it own. To help you and others out there who might be running into similar problems, here is a link that I found with a list of the DTC's: http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=142563

I would think that the problem causing the 2799 DTC would be either a bad DCCV or a break in the wiring to it.

Those codes show up on the manual for the 2004 model year, but they are not listed in the factory service manual for the 2002 model year. Interesting.

I also agree that the evap discharge sensor would not cause the DCCV codes, but he does also have a code for the evap sensor circuit as well.

-Rod

shorod / rhanson1 You have giving me a lot of information to work with, I am going to look over the car this weekend. I will get back with the results. Thank you.

new to the site, hi all and thanks for any help.
have a 01 lincoln with sudden loss of heat and temp gauge has bounced all over from mid to hot. so i changed the thermastat, but to no aval!!! so reading all of these posts has given me some insite, and im thinking that im in for a bit of a rollar coaster ride.
long and short, no heat, new thermastat. was wondering about an "air lock." funny thing was that during my air removal trials i left both the air release, and over flow caps on. then i play with the lower rad hose and tried to purged the system that way. and it worked! but onced i shut the car off and let it cool, i was right back to were i was. any help out there. just so "you" know the car has a new hvac deck...... about 3 years old.

I believe if you can get Shorod on your team you should be able to correct the problem. I'm still working on my LS But I believe I have enough info to correct the heat problem . However Shorod appears to be the master and should be able to help fix, site unseen (amazing) Good luck!

new to the site, hi all and thanks for any help.
have a 01 lincoln with sudden loss of heat and temp gauge has bounced all over from mid to hot. so i changed the thermastat, but to no aval!!! so reading all of these posts has given me some insite, and im thinking that im in for a bit of a rollar coaster ride.
long and short, no heat, new thermastat. was wondering about an "air lock." funny thing was that during my air removal trials i left both the air release, and over flow caps on. then i play with the lower rad hose and tried to purged the system that way. and it worked! but onced i shut the car off and let it cool, i was right back to were i was. any help out there. just so "you" know the car has a new hvac deck...... about 3 years old.
With the temp gauge bouncing, I'd also suspect you have air trapped in the cooling system, especially since you're recently had the system open. There is a procedure for purging the air, I'll try to get that procedure posted....

Have you tried pulling diagnostic codes from the DATC controller? The steps have been posted a few time on the forum for the 2000-2002 model years. Apparently it's a bit different for the 2003-2006 model years, depending on the options.

-Rod

Well, I wasn't able to cleanly get the procedure to where I could post it as a series of JPEGs, so I e-mailed the procedure to the address you provided in your PM.

-Rod

I finally found the time to install the new evap discharge temp sensor, It does not appear that the problem is fixed. I believe the (dccv) may be the next replacement. Can you tell me what commands the (dccv )to open and close so I can look in to that as well . I believe they are in the closed position at this time.

The DCCV is controlled electronically by the electronic climate control module. You could unplug the DCCV and see if you get any heat. If I recall correctly, the DCCV opens when it is provided with battery voltage.

-Rod

I will unplug the dccv first thing Sunday morning. It would be great to know the dccv is working, It does not look like a difficult repair if it need's to be replaced. I will respond back with results.

I disconnected the dccv to see if the valve's would open, It does not appear that there was any changes at all. I will replace the dccv this week/weekend . I will let you know the result's. Thank you

Oooh, I just checked my cheat sheet and I had the operation of the DCCV backwards:
No voltage is 0 duty cycle = 100% coolant flow.
Voltage = 100% duty cycle and no coolant flow.

If you haven't ordered a new DCCV yet, you may want to check for voltage to the DCCV to make sure it is being controlled properly.

The DATC controls the DCCV through the grounds for the solenoids. Connector C134 is easy to get to. It is mounted at the top of the fan shroud on the passenger side. One solenoid is controlled by the brown/green wire (connector terminal 1). The other solenoid is controlled by the brown/blue wire (connector terminal 3). the power for both valves is from the red/orange wire (connector terminal 2).

Sorry for the misinformation above. I was on travel last week and didn't have my files with me. Actually, instead of me trying to describe everything in my cheat sheet, if you'd like to send me a private message with an e-mail address for you that can accept PDF attachments, I'll forward the information to you.

-Rod

I was going to purchase the dccv this week, however I did not ordered the part as of today. I should be able to check the information as describe above to see if I am getting voltage. If I have a difficult time with testing I will take you up on your offer. Thank you for the all information up to date.

Well just in time ,the temps are getting cold. I checked the voltage and everything looked good, So I decided to move foward and replace the dccv ,I now have heat. I want to thank you for all your help and knowledge that you are willing to share with all of us in this forum and making us all feel welcomed .Special thanks to Shorod for your devoted time .

4re

Alright...I have an 01 LS V6 with no heat. Car is throwing a few codes but nothing related to the heating system...at least I don't think.

P0301B
PO316
P0430
P2195
P2197

Coolant is topped off, good thermostat, system is free from air and the heater hoses are hot, under the hood and under the dash. I removed the dash and the core is good as well, the actuator/solenoid is working, the ducting appears to be free from leaks, but the car just isn't throwing warm air. I'm really stumped....any help or ideas? Thanks

I would try to contact Shorod he seem's to be the master mind behind the lincoln, You should be able to send him an email/private message to get his responce. I don't want to give you any miss information. Good luck!

Alright...I have an 01 LS V6 with no heat. Car is throwing a few codes but nothing related to the heating system...at least I don't think.

P0301B
PO316
P0430
P2195
P2197

You're right, none of these codes are related to the HVAC system. For the most part, the two are not tied together through the powertrain codes (P designation on the codes you list). There have been a few posts before describing how you can pull the HVAC codes from the DATC unit. I'd suggest you search the Lincoln LS forum for the procedure and see if any codes show up.

As you're probably aware, the codes you listed are defined as follows:
P0301 - Cylinder #1 misfire.
P0316 - Misfire Occurred in the First 1000 Engine Revolutions
P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P2195 & P2197 - I haven't found the correct system in the service manual to describe these codes. Normally I'd rely on my scan tool to define these for me....

-Rod

theres a really bad vibration coming from the car when i turn on the ac, and my heat wont work ne help ?

Welcome to the forum!

You probably could have started a new thread for the vibration.

As for the heat issue, have you tried any of the suggestions in this thread? If so, what have you found?

Does the vibration only happen at idle, or even if you turn on the AC while running down the road?

-Rod

Just wanted to update on my car, it was the DCCV that was clogged and causing a no heat condition. Thanks guys!

Thanks for the update. Did you get the source(s) of the other codes fixed as well?

-Rod

Yeah, 2 of the ignition coils were bad and causing a misfire.

Hi all.....

I have the same issue.. Not heat. AC works great but when I change to heat, ONLY one vent blows warm air and the rest are cold.

I want to do the On board test but I still can find the 1,2,3 steps on doing to.. My Car is a 2000 LS...

If I have to replace the DCCV Where did you guys get it from and around how much I should espect to pay.?

Did you try the steps outlined here? I don't recall if these work on a 2000, but if not, someone probably corrected the steps elsewhere in the thread. You could also search the forum for keyword DATC.

I purchased the DCCV for my wife's 2002 from Fast Parts Network (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=318) for around $160. I couldn't find it listed on the Parts Catalog but contacted Torrie for the information to order the DCCV and he quickly replied with the info.

-Rod

Hi there...

Thanks for the quick response to my post.... I was able to run the DATC test and i got
5041

What does this mean?

shorod

I should have mentioned that the problem with the "NO HEAT" came about after the AC was fixed.

Prior the letting the shop replace some ac lines, and charge it, the heat was the only thing that worked on my car for nearly a year.

as soon as the ac was fixed, I have not been aboe to get any heat out of the car. at first it was only the center vent passenger side that blew some for a bit but now there is no heat at all.

I took it back to the shop and they want to charge me around $700 to replaced some head control unit...

Code 5041 means "SCP invalid or missing data for function read vehicle speed." Have you noticed if your cruise control, speedometer, or ABS has been doing anything odd lately? I don't know how much impact such a code would have on the operation of the HVAC though.

Do you know specifically what the shop changed out on the car for the AC? I wonder if they had the cooling system open/drained for some of the work (such as replacing the A/C condensor) and maybe there is an air pocket in the cooling system causing the no heat condition.

-Rod

Cruse control has not worked ever since the Engine was replaced Back in 2007. At that time, the ClokSpring was also replace and the Airbag Light indicator finally turned off. An Issue that came with the car when I bought it and that I dealt with for years,.

According to the work order from AAA car care.. they "Remove & Replace Manifold & Tube Assembly - A/C line Assembly". Total of $550

Obviously, they had to vacuum or discharge whatever Freon was left in it., Do the work and then Recharge system.

Also, if the DCCV is clogged can It be removed and cleaned.. Does anyone have pictures on this..... I used to have the Lincoln Motor Repair DVD manual but it stopped working on me and can't find it anywhere.

The reason I asked about the cruise control is because the vehicle speed is derived from the ABS system, which also provides the vehicle speed input to the cruise control system. There may be a tie here and the code may have been in the DATC system this whole time. I'm not sure if they would have had the cooling system opened to replace the manifold and tube assembly.

There is a bleed procedure for the cooling system posted on the forum, you might search for the procedure and try it on your car before pulling the DCCV. To answer your question about cleaning the DCCV, yeah, it is possible to disassemble it once it's removed from the car. However, once you go to the work of getting the old one off, you may decide it's worth the $160 to put a new one one. I have a few photos of the one I took apart. I can send them to you if you provide me with an e-mail address via Private Message that can accept JPEG attachments.

As for the service manual DVD, you probably need to backdate your computer system clock to get it to launch again.

-Rod

You can Email me at [removed]

As for the DVD. Is the DVD itself that i does not work. I think it is due to scratches and what have you..

I'll search for the bleeding procedures....

On another note, is there another tread or post on EGR issues... Ever since the engine was replaced, I have had and on and off issues with an EGR code and the Engine light comes on.

I have replaced the EGR and the DPFE. This seems to stop the issue but not for long. This time around after the DPFE was replaced, the issue did not return again for about 10 months.

Now is Back again but it is not always there. The Light Some days is on and some days IT IS NOT

Sorry., I forgot and important tip.. that is..

The CEL (Check Engine Light) coming on has not effect what so ever ont eh performance of the car. I have dealt with this issues for about 2 years now.. it is only a problem because it will not pass State Inspection if this CEL is ON....Grrrrrr

Codes have been read multiple times from Autozone and local shops and they all said it is an EGR issue..

I'll get the photos e-mailed to you hopefully tonight after I get home from work.

Do you have a listing of specifically what codes were read by Autozone? There are probably about 20 different codes related to the EGR system.

-Rod

Rod,

Unfortunately, I do not remember the last code read from it since it was done about a month ago. Presently, the CEL or MIL is NOT ON. It has been off for the past 4 days.

After 3 hours of the car just sitting on the driveway, I decided to start it and and rev it up and see if the MIL would come ON but,... no go. What I noticed is that it pegs at 2800 to 2900 Rpms and the car jerks a little bit.

I was not able to get RPMS to 3k or more... Weird. I never noticed this before,

I rather post this under "EGR Issues" or or some other thread.. I just could not find one or maybe I have not looked hard enough in the forum.. Any Ideas...

The photos are on their way to your inbox, and I deleted your e-mail address from the above post to reduce your chances of getting spam.

Most modern cars have computer-controlled rev limiters to prevent you from exceeding some number of engine rpms when the car is in park and usually neutral as well. Ford typically sets theirs around 3500 rpms, that is probably what you are experiencing.

-Rod

Hello,
I'm new to this site, not sure how to ask a question but i'll give it a shot.
I guess i'm not the only one with LS problems. I'm am trying to figure out a problem with a 2002 LS. When you turn the a/c on it works for a few minutes the blows hot air. The heat also does not work. Did the tests following Rod's procedure and came up with 8888. Also heated seat on drivers side does not work. The cruse control you have to turn off then the minus symbol to set. Any ideas? The climate control is the main concern right now.

new to the site, hi all and thanks for any help.
have a 01 lincoln with sudden loss of heat and temp gauge has bounced all over from mid to hot. so i changed the thermastat, but to no aval!!! so reading all of these posts has given me some insite, and im thinking that im in for a bit of a rollar coaster ride.
long and short, no heat, new thermastat. was wondering about an "air lock." funny thing was that during my air removal trials i left both the air release, and over flow caps on. then i play with the lower rad hose and tried to purged the system that way. and it worked! but onced i shut the car off and let it cool, i was right back to were i was. any help out there. just so "you" know the car has a new hvac deck...... about 3 years old.


Happened to me too. There was air in the core. My symptom was that the the heat in my LS would reach its expected temperature when at high rpms (driving) and get cold when idling. Seems it's very difficult to bleed the air from the LS. The manual says it will air bleed at idle with the bleed tube opened but actually you have to run it up to over 2000rpm and it still takes forever. I just took it to the dealership to have it them bleed the air out. I think they pressure bleed them or something.

Thank's for the info about air in the system which I belive she has some too. I noticed when she stops it cools off. But anyway I found out the heat and the a/c work as long you run them on manual. Any clues why that would be?

If the manual works, and the Auto don't, it sounds like a bad DATC.

I would check with Shorod, he might have a spare for sale.

I do have a spare DATC for a 2002 without heated/cooled seats, but before condemning the DATC I would move some of the temperature sensors around and see if they effect the performance in the Auto setting. Or, if you have access to a scan tool that can perform datastream on the DATC sensors, see if the temp readings on the various temp sensors seem realistic. Your symptoms don't seem all that much different from what I was experiencing on my wife's 2002 (and part of the reason I have a spare DATC - I should have trusted what my scan tool was showing me).

-Rod

When I first tested mine, it was telling me the temp was around 175F in the car when it was really around 65f. The scan tool said something different than the DACT

New to the site and already read some great things about what to do if my car gets to that situation. I have a 2000 Lincoln LS V6 3.0 212000 miles (I know high) but I have never had any problems out of it except for the radiator cracking. I have replaced the radiator, thermostat, flushed fluids, and bled all lines. I have heat when the car is at idle sitting, when I go down the road for no more than 5 minutes the heat quits working goes to cold air then, when I stop again and let idle it will start gettin warmer again. What should I do, does anyone know what the problem could be?:banghead:

What is your temperature gauge reading during this time? (Is it always at the center line, or does it dip back below the center while driving?)

That's alot of miles, that's great. I would remove your DACT (below the canister, next to radiator, on passenger side). It's 1 bolt and the hoses will be really hard to get off without a struggle. Clean out with WD40 and water. Make sure water can flow through both outlets. Dry, and replace. I did this and 6 days later the heat started up again. It may take some time for it to loosen up and the valves open. Touch base with the guys on this site. They're great. Good luck.

BKLink, watching the temp gauge is a good idea to see if it fluctuates. There's a good chance you have air in the system, especially with all the work that you have done with the cooling system so far.

When you get the chance, try running the DATC self test as outlined several times on this forum. If you have any codes that are not already listed in the threads, post them here and we'll see if we can get them defined for you.

The device that LoveMyLS is speaking of is the Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV) not the DACT. That would be another suspected issue for your symptoms if you don't have air in the system and no codes in the DATC.

There have been a few of us with issues from bad cabin temperature sensors. If you haven't already, review a few of those posts and see if any of the symptoms match yours.

-Rod

Help Please. This message is for Shorod. I am having the same problem listed about with my 2002 Lincoln LS v8 with heated seats. It is winter in new england and my car is blowing nothing but cold air. I am unclear on the proper steps to take in reseting the heat. I am I must admit a bit of a novice. I was hoping to have as much information as possible to give to my mechanic in hopes of avoiding a costly and labor intesive process of elimination to fix this problem. Is there anyway that I could please have you email me the procedures as you have done for others in this forum? Regards

I'll send you the e-mail with the troubleshooting info for the DATC if that's what you're asking for. As for resetting the DATC, you should find the appropriate steps for your vehicle listed in some of the earlier pages. Good luck!

There is a lot of good information from a lot of contributors in this thread, I'd suggest you read through the 4 pages and try some of the ideas discussed here if you haven't already. The more information you can provide to us, the better we'll be able to help you diagnose the issue. For example, have you tried turning the temp set point all the way up? Was there any change? Do you have access to a scan tool that can access the DATC and monitor the temp sensors real time?

-Rod

All, Sorry I have been absent for a while here..

Back in Late October and early Nov I posted an issue about ERRATIC HEAT/NOT HEAT/ONE VENT BLOWS COLD OTHERS WARM.... on my car.

Well My issue has been resolved as of last night. I finally got the time to Replaced my DCCV and as soon as the car reached Normal temps... Heat was coming from all vents while I was bleeding the system.

To the next person having similar issues with their heat, this is my independent advice...

Skip all the Troubleshooting and just buy yourself the DCCV from Amason for $160 or get it from your local auto-parts for easy returning if not needed.

Removed the old DCCV and if clogged, then clean it and return the DCCV your purchased, if not clogged then simply replaced it.

The reason why I say this is because I searched all over on the internet and I'm yet to come across anything else causing this issue.

The problem is either clogged DCCV or just a bad one.

If you are not comfortable at changing your breaks, you may want to skip this and let your mechanic change it for you. It is easy yet somewhat complicated as you will be working in a really tight area. There are two bolts that secure the bracket to the chassis to which the DCCV is mounted on. One bolt is easy to get while the other is a little more difficult to get to. The hoses can be a pain in the you know what to unhook. And then the Entire DCCV with the Electric pump and hoses comes up and out.

Mare sure you transfer one hose at the time from old DCCV to the new one and install it with the same bend and Direction/orientation as it was on the old one. Trust me Do this or else you gona have serious headaches putting it back in the the car and your hoses will not align with the ones in the car.

I'm sure Rod may not agree with me on keeping t-shooting. I did the t-shooting steps because when it comes to Doctors and local repair shops.... I do not trust them... Trust me I have my reasons and Thousands of dollars saved on unnecessary repairs requested by them. Just to give you an Idea, AAA shop wanted to replace the DCCV and the DACT.. almost $2000 on parts and labor. They said it could be either part causing the issue and they recommended to replace both parts to be on the safe side.. I said BULL****

However, this is a forum of honest guys like myself and probably some that are mechanics and are really good at what they do such as Rod (thank you so much by the way on everything that you do).

If you searched trough this forum you will see that the final fixed was either DCCV was replaced or cleaned because it was clogged.

We all have done the t-shooting for you so, if this is your issue, THIS IS YOUR FIX.

Thanks for the update. You're right though, I do disagree with skipping the troubleshooting steps. I'm aware of three people (myself included) that the problem ultimately ended up being a temp sensor in the cabin. Those cost $21 from the dealer and only take about 10 minutes to replace. At least in my situation I had already replaced the $160 DCCV which is more like a 2 hour job.

Also, I'm not a mechanic/technician, I'm a Senior Engineering Manager for a company that designs and builds communications equipment. Cars just happen to be a hobby of mine.

-Rod

I am having the same problem with my 02 Lincoln LS no heat good A/C took it to a mechanic to change the DCCV and he said that it was not it that it was a motor that controlled this that was 514 dollars has anyone heard of this motor

Shorod ???????????????????????????

I am having the same problem with my 02 Lincoln LS no heat good A/C took it to a mechanic to change the DCCV and he said that it was not it that it was a motor that controlled this that was 514 dollars has anyone heard of this motor

Your mechanic is wrong. Get a better mechanic. Most cars use a blend-air door for temperature control, and that door is driven by an electric motor. The LS does not use a blend air door. Instead, it has valves (the DCCV) that control coolant flow.
You gen I LS does have a "cold air bypass door", but it does not control temperature. It is just triggered for maximum air conditioning. Failures of this door are very rare. Failures of the DCCV are very common.

There are a lot of good discussion and troubleshooting ideas in this thread. Please read through the thread (yeah, I know it's a lot of reading) and try the suggestions. Then post back with the results and we'll go from there. What Joegr said is correct, there is not motor that controls the DCCV, except for the solenoids that are part of the DCCV. Are you sure your mechanic/technician didn't say "module" referring to the DATC? Either way, there are steps mentioned in this thread that will help you or your technician properly diagnose the issue. Modern cars are no longer purely mechanical. If you truly are still relying on a "mechanic" you need to find yourself a good "technician" who understands both the electronics and mechanics of the car and can troubleshoot accordingly.

-Rod

I think thaty he was probably talking about the actuator but not sure going to look in to this feel as though he was trying to rob me to buy Christmas:evillol::evillol::evillol:!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!