Hum and a Grind?

When i drive my car straight down the road i hear a significant humming sound (almost like a pulley hum?) when i veer or turn left the sound turns to a grinding noise sounding like its comming from the drivers side front of the car. When i veer or turn to the right, both sounds go away completely and it sounds completely normal.

History:
Car has all new suspension (all 4 struts/springs)
Newer tires
Passanger side front axel was replaced 1.5 years ago
New rotors 2 years ago
New drums and calipers 2 years ago
Engine was rebuilt 1.5 years ago

Car has 120k on it, engine has 10k on it. All fluid changes have been done in a timely manner.

I have purchased a full set or tie rods and ball joints for both driver and passanger side but havent put them on yet as im not entirely sure they are the problem. Could it be the drivers side axel? im not entirely sure what else it could be any help or ideas would be welcomed.

Sounds ALOT like one of the front half shafts' constant velocity joint is about to expire...

With a rubber boot on it, it's not easy to inspect, except feel for looseness between the 2 shafts that make up each side of the noisy half shaft.

Forgot to throw in a pretty vital piece of info, the car is a 97 Cavalier. Cavalier forums im assuming anyone who read already guessed that with the mileage and all.

Anyway, im not too framiliar with doing half shafts, is it an easy do it yourself job? I know the passanger side axel gave me a bear of a time trying to pull it out. The car has never had bearings or hub assy work done either.

If the noise disappears for a split second then returns ,check the hub /bearing assembly . This is what it sounds like to me.

If the noise disappears for a split second then returns ,check the hub /bearing assembly . This is what it sounds like to me.
I second that because a bad wheel bearing will change sound as weight/force changes when making turns.

Forgot to throw in a pretty vital piece of info, the car is a 97 Cavalier. Cavalier forums im assuming anyone who read already guessed that with the mileage and all.

Anyway, im not too framiliar with doing half shafts, is it an easy do it yourself job? I know the passanger side axel gave me a bear of a time trying to pull it out. The car has never had bearings or hub assy work done either.

When I say half shafts, I mean front axle. Check for looseness as highlighted in red

Sounds ALOT like one of the front half shafts' constant velocity joint is about to expire...

With a rubber boot on it, it's not easy to inspect, except feel for looseness between the 2 shafts that make up each side of the noisy half shaft.

I don't think it's a wheel bearing, but to check, jack up the front wheel on the side of the noise. Grab the wheel at 9 o'clock position, and 3 o'clock, and see if you can push and pull. Should be zero looseness.


ON second thought, you just might have bearing issues....

When I say half shafts, I mean front axle. Check for looseness as highlighted in red



I don't think it's a wheel bearing, but to check, jack up the front wheel on the side of the noise. Grab the wheel at 9 o'clock position, and 3 o'clock, and see if you can push and pull. Should be zero looseness.


ON second thought, you just might have bearing issues....you cannot always go by the grab and pull method......... unless of coarse it is about to fall apart completely. I tried the grab and pull and got zero looseness ,put the car on hoist spun the wheels up to 35 MPH and there it was ............Bad Hub/bearing. Changed hub and noise was gone. Not saying that s the case here but to me if rocking the wheel while going down the road changes noise then I`d suspect hub/bearing

Technically i think both ideas may be correct, we replaced the hub assy today and the hum while driving went away, but the grind on the left turn/veer remained. Further investigation has led us to believe it is the upper engine mount (hydrolic mount) causing the grind by pushing the axel into the hub. The upper mount seems to be bad, and this would have burnt out my old bearing we think. Its not the axel itself, it seems to be fine as long as the pressure hasnt ruined the outer joint.

Gunna give it another go tomorrow and try to get a new upper mount on it and hope that fixes the problem.

To change CV, work on one side at a time, loose the wheel lug nuts and the Cv nut. If you have bolted wheel cap you must remove them and leave at least 2 lug nuts, because to remove the CV nuts you must have the wheel on the pavement. Raise the car put secure stand remove the wheel, loosen the 2 bolts retaining the caliper remove it on the side attach with a piece of rope on the coil spring. Remove the disc. Loosen the 2 bolts holding the strut to the spindle just a 1/4 inch out of the stud, take a big sledge hammer and knock the the stud out (this is the hard part) Don't be discourage, I use a 25 pound hammer to do this . remove the CV nuts the same way and knock the cv out by pulling down at the same time the spindle. take a big screwdriver and remove the CV by prying it from the transaxle. Reinstall the new CV the same way.

Overall, good advice, but I bet this was resolved back in October. The user guidelines prohibit bringing back a dead post.

One suggestion I have for anyone that may search and find this, however, is that you don't remove/loosen anything from the struts as that will change the alignment. It is best to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle, and then the strut/steering knuckle just swings out. Doesn't change the alignment at all.