I have a 95 jimmy 4wd 4.3LW S-series

I am planning to install new rod bearings myself, and would like to know.....
1. can it be done by just putting the front end up on ramps and removing the oil pan to access the bearings?
2. would the transfer case and shafts have to be removed?
if so then would I have to have the jimmy on jack stands instead of ramps?
3. does anything else have to be removed to get the oil pan out of the way?

Thanks,
Buddy~

Most of the how to can be aquired at autozone.com, repair guides. But why are you doing this?

I could hear a rod knocking and while doing an oil change there were metal shavings that looked like wire stuck to the magnetic drain plug.

Most of the how to can be aquired at autozone.com, repair guides. But why are you doing this?
I tried Autozone. Usually they they can print out a how to But not on this.

I have a Haynes Repair Guide but only tells how to rebuild with engine out of vehicle and on a stand.

I had hoped someone on this board would have knowledge of this repair while engine is in vehicle.

Go to the oil pan removal on the AZ site, then there is access to the lower engine. You can then follow the same guidelines as the engine out the truck outlines. Usually there is almost always crankshaft damage when the bearings fail, then there begs the question what caused the failure, high mileage, poor oil pressure, gunked up poorly maintained engine. Over many years of doing major engine work I have never seen just a rod bearing replacement correct a lower engine knock , there is peripheral damage and the root cause must be corrected.

Go to the oil pan removal on the AZ site, then there is access to the lower engine. You can then follow the same guidelines as the engine out the truck outlines. Usually there is almost always crankshaft damage when the bearings fail, then there begs the question what caused the failure, high mileage, poor oil pressure, gunked up poorly maintained engine. Over many years of doing major engine work I have never seen just a rod bearing replacement correct a lower engine knock , there is peripheral damage and the root cause must be corrected.
That figures. I,ve had this car for 3 weeks and nothing but trouble. First the fuel injection. Then the 4wd. Now this. I dont know how many miles are on this engine. According to the reciept I found in the glove box a used engine was put in early this year. The oil pressure guage shows good pressure and when I bought it it had just had an oil change. I just got back from a 300 mile trip and everything seemed fine. Then yesterday the knocking started.

That figures. I,ve had this car for 3 weeks and nothing but trouble. First the fuel injection. Then the 4wd. Now this. I dont know how many miles are on this engine. According to the reciept I found in the glove box a used engine was put in early this year. The oil pressure guage shows good pressure and when I bought it it had just had an oil change. I just got back from a 300 mile trip and everything seemed fine. Then yesterday the knocking started.

Did you buy from a car seller, or an individual? If from a seller, they are responsible. "As is, where is", does NOT matter. That's federal law. 30 days. Give the seller WRITTEN notice of the problem, with a request to repair / replace / refund. If they do not accept a notice / request, put it in the mail to them, Certified mail, in the morning.

Did you buy from a car seller, or an individual? If from a seller, they are responsible. "As is, where is", does NOT matter. That's federal law. 30 days. Give the seller WRITTEN notice of the problem, with a request to repair / replace / refund. If they do not accept a notice / request, put it in the mail to them, Certified mail, in the morning.
I did buy the car from a lot. However I was over the 30 day mark when I read your response.

Turns out I had a spun bearing so I have just installed a rebuilt engine.

And I may have contributed to the old engines demise by putting in "Seafoam" before my trip.