Fuel Pump Fuse?

I have a 1995 Nissan Quest. I just replaced the fuel pump, relay and filter. When trying to start the van the pump runs for 2 - 3 seconds than the fuel pump fuse breaks. I removed the tank and rechecked the pumps wiring and traced the wiring back to the fuse box...no breakage of wiring any where. Am I missing something? There's plenty of gas in the tank.

Help needed yesterday? Thanks!

I have a 1995 Nissan Quest. I just replaced the fuel pump, relay and filter. When trying to start the van the pump runs for 2 - 3 seconds than the fuel pump fuse breaks. I removed the tank and rechecked the pumps wiring and traced the wiring back to the fuse box...no breakage of wiring any where. Am I missing something? There's plenty of gas in the tank.

Help needed yesterday? Thanks!


Here is a site for a FSM:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

Since you changed fuel pump, relay and filter check the igntion relay and ignition switch.

Was this problem existing before you changed fuel pump??

How many miles on vehicle??

There's a good 165k miles on the van (ran great before the pump stopped working). Just had the water pump, thermostat and timing chain changed. This problem started after replacing the fuel pump.

There's a good 165k miles on the van (ran great before the pump stopped working). Just had the water pump, thermostat and timing chain changed. This problem started after replacing the fuel pump.

What brand of fuel pump did you install???

I would double check all wiring and installation but I am thinking you got a defective fuel pump. Consider returning this fuel pump and exchanging for another and try it.

Good Luck and keep us posted

Today I disconnected the fuel pump harness connection. Try starting the van and the fuse did not break. Any clues? The brand is Carter.

Today I disconnected the fuel pump harness connection. Try starting the van and the fuse did not break. Any clues? The brand is Carter.

Did you replace just the fuel pump or did you install the complete set up? (frame , sending unit for fuel gauge and fuel pump.) Double check wires from connector to fuel pump if ok return fuel pump and install different new pump.

I just replaced the pump. The wiring seemed to be fine.

I just replaced the pump. The wiring seemed to be fine.

I myself would return new fuel pump and demand a new one under warranty and install it. I believe there is a short in the pump you installed.

As its a big job to pull the pump I would buy an inline fuse holder. I would run a temporary wire direct from the battery. If the fuse in the fuse holder blows take your pump back and ask for a free replacement.

This is the second pump. The first one did not make any noise at all. This one is at least running for 2- 3 seconds before the fuse breaks. Should I still return the pump? I also just returned the relay and got a new one.

Thanks for the advice.

I would try my previous suggestion if it still blows get another pump. Make sure they don't give you the first pump back. Normally you don't get two bad ones in a row.

What is the proper procedure when installing the inline fuse holder? Is there a certain holder I should purchase? I don't want to damage anything else or fry my assets.

Thanks!:screwy:

The parts store sells them I like the ones that use normal size fuses. I would buy one and a small roll of wire hopefully you have some. I use splice connectors and a pair of Klein crimping pliers. Snap-on, Klein and other companies make them. They make connectors for what ever you are going to connect to. If this works use an ohm meter and check out your wiring. Buy a new fuse when you buy the inline fuse holder. I had a Pontiac that had a cracked fuse holder and I cut out the wire ond used one of these as my tail lights were going on and off. It worked fine as long as I had the car.

Okay...I picked up a inline fuse holder and some wire. Now do I run it from the battery to ? The harness to ? Could you please clarify the run wire from and to? Thanks again for your help.

For testing purposes I would run it from the battery to as close to the pump as you can get. I imagine a plug near the top of the tank.

On my 1998 the fuel pump wiring harness connection was mounted above the rear axle, I would check the Ohms reading across the fuel pump and then compare it with the one you took out or a new one from an autoparts store. also Ohm out the wiring to ground on the 12 supply from the fuse box to the pump, a short in this wire will cause a fuse to blow. If you only had this problem since replacing the fuel pump it sounds like it was related, how did you determine the other one was bad?

I called the people that the pump was ordered from and they were not sure what the problem was. I returned it and purchased another at Pep Boys.

But I just ran a inline fuse from the battery ground to the pump ground. The fuse did not blow but I do not here the pump. Is the pump bad or did I do something wrong with the wiring?

:banghead:

Did you try to start it? If I understand how you installed the temp wiring all you did was remove the fuel inertia shut off switch from the picture, the fuel pump is grounded through this switch. The pump will not attemp to run until you turn the key on which picks up the fuel pump relay.

Yes...I tried to start it but nothing. So, lets make sure I have this correct because I'm a true newbie. What part of the battery should I run this wire from? The - or +. Also, what part of the pump am I running it to. I just would like to make sure I'm not crossing any wires. I also removed the pump this morning to make sure the wiring was fine around it and they were.

Thanks!:runaround:

Do you have a chiltons manual wiring diagram of the circuit it will be easier to explain, do you have a 12v test light and multimeter? or a fax machine or email I'll send you the drawing.

My email address is Investinginadream@msn.com. I don't have a test light.

Your help is very much appreciated.

okay I sent you the drawing it is a word file, at the fuel pump connector does it should have two wire 12v+ light green/red and the ground black/white, I remember this connection being on top of the rear axle or something.At this connection you should have 12 v across this connection with the key on but the car not running. I would take an ohm reading across the pump to see if it is shorted. let me know what you get for readings.

Okay...I went ahead and had a diagnostic test done at Christian Brothers. I was told that its a bad sending unit that is blowing the fuel pump fuse. I will replace it myself, but no auto store carries it. Any money saving suggestions (wreckers, used, etc.)?

Thanks!

What's the difference between a sending unit for a Quest and Villager...besides the price difference?

Quest - $175.00

Villager - $75.00

When ever you buy foreign parts they take you to the cleaners. I think they are the same but am not sure. You also could buy used if willing to take the chance on your labor.

From what I have looked up in napapnline.com and autozone.com the pump is the same for both vehicles. Like randwor said foriegn are more expensive.

Only other thing it could be is that Quest is complete unit, (pump, fuel gauge sending unit, etc) and Villager could be fuel pump only and have to put new pump with old sending unit. Just a thought.

I would fiscally look at each and find out for sure. Check Rockauto.com also.