Casting your Parts in 30 Min (No silicon rubber required !!!)

Been in this forum for a while, and had seen quite a few members struggling from casting their model parts. The main concern of using silicon rubber and resin are
1 High initial cost
2. Limited lifespan of the resin
3. Most of the time you only need to cast a few object but you need to buy a huge quantity


So "Oyumaru" is what you need. Oyumaru is a Japanese Moulding material. Which is like silicon rubber when cool, it will soften to a form like chewing gum when you boil it in 80C Celsius water. The great thing about this product is it is completely reusable. All you need to do is to put it in the hot water again.

1. The 350z rear bumber and 6 pieces of Oyumaru
http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/40500/2407241880087837450S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2407241880087837450CZNQZD)

2. Dip the Oyumaru in hot water to softern it, will turn to transparant when it is ready for use
http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/41285/2077390360087837450S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2077390360087837450YljHuj)

3. Dry them with a paper towel
http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/42226/2198411860087837450S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2198411860087837450pxPulI)

4. Put it on the part you want to copy and work aroud to the sape you want
(Personally i prefer to fill up the inner part first)
http://inlinethumb13.webshots.com/44044/2969995600087837450S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2969995600087837450mwfteq)

5. Wait for it to cool down (Take around 5-10 min to cool down). Then make the other side of the mould
http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/40799/2960841160087837450S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2960841160087837450HpqbSR)

6. Separate the 2 mould when it cool down completely
http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/41964/2019345760087837450S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2019345760087837450FgZXpc)

7. Mix your 2 part putty
http://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/41708/2906116840087837450S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2906116840087837450JiJwgm)

8. Fill up each side of the mode (fill up the edge first)
http://inlinethumb59.webshots.com/41658/2663426970087837450S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2663426970087837450wEqOcn)

9. Put the mould back together and sqeeze out the extra putty
http://inlinethumb04.webshots.com/3331/2073741480087837450S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2073741480087837450ycwKNY)

10. Separate the mould when the putty is around 90% hard, Clean up as much edge as you can with your modelling knife
http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/26784/2596451780087837450S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2596451780087837450doRuvD)

11.Here's the finish product
http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/42464/2997829530087837450S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2997829530087837450wVztLj)

http://inlinethumb35.webshots.com/6306/2486760230087837450S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2486760230087837450jZKkWC)

P.S. Some member are conserned that the hot oyumaru might demage the plastic parts. From my experiance it is pretty safe. As plastic is a very poor conductor and Oyumaru cool down pretty quick

Happy Casting everyone :D

Hi, i must say this is a very good & unique product!
but i have a few questions pertaining...

1) will the 2-part resin putty stick onto the item after casting?

2) where to buy the item?

3) are they expensive?

i'm in to scratchbuilding most of the time & this item will definitely speed up my building process. it will save me alot time to sitting down & scratching my head where to get X or Y parts for the build.

please help me in locating such items if you can...thankx!
cheers!:loser:

Where u get that oyumaru, online?

1) will the 2-part resin putty stick onto the item after casting?
-> No won't stick, worse case give the mould a brush and wash in cold water. The resin putty will come off easily as Oyumaru is elastic.
2) where to buy the item?
-> Depends on where you are. you should be able to find it in a lots of online art and craft shop. Try google oyumaru
3) are they expensive?
-> Very Very cheap (Cost me around $6 AU a box, 7 pieces in each box)

Thanks for this oyumaru tutorial! :)

Nice :thumbsup:

I need to get me some of that :)

1) will the 2-part resin putty stick onto the item after casting?
-> No won't stick, worse case give the mould a brush and wash in cold water. The resin putty will come off easily as Oyumaru is elastic.
2) where to buy the item?
-> Depends on where you are. you should be able to find it in a lots of online art and craft shop. Try google oyumaru
3) are they expensive?
-> Very Very cheap (Cost me around $6 AU a box, 7 pieces in each box)

where you from?
australia?
if yes, where you get the Oyumaru?:tongue:

Perhaps I can use this to cast a couple of sets of BBS DTM wheels.

Samuel_Takumi
-> Yes I am from Western Australia. And I got them from
http://www.benjaminscrafts.com.au/ I know that there are few supplier in the eastern state too. Just google Oyumaru


tonioseven
-> I though of casting my aftermarket rims too. But I guess the shape is bit too complicate for 2 parts putty. Might need to use resin instead

Samuel_Takumi
-> Yes I am from Western Australia. And I got them from
http://www.benjaminscrafts.com.au/ I know that there are few supplier in the eastern state too. Just google Oyumaru


so mostly can get in the hobby shop in aus?
i ask my friend go to find it, he now study in nsw

so mostly can get in the hobby shop in aus?
i ask my friend go to find it, he now study in nsw

No you don't find them in hobby shop. Most of the time you get them from art and craft shop. Also depends on where you are at this moment. As what i said google it, you should find a supplier close to you.

No you don't find them in hobby shop. Most of the time you get them from art and craft shop. Also depends on where you are at this moment. As what i said google it, you should find a supplier close to you.
ok, thank for the info
i have been google it already:biggrin:

Nice :thumbsup:

I need to get me some of that :)

Either do I ! :grinyes:
excellent product !

ArtClayWorld doesn't shipp to Europe, anyone know another place where to get some from for a similar price ?
I found one in France but with euro value it is far more expensive than what I found elsewhere...
(if it's the only solution I'll do with it)

Can you use resin on Oyumaru?

I received mine this morning...
just have to test it now :naughty:

It will be very usefull to cast some parts but not very adpated to other like tyres I guess...

I will also try to use resin in oyumaru molds as I haven't two parts putty at the moment.
(will try to find some tomorrow)

I have seen few tutorial in the internet using resin on oyumaru, but I never try this myself. I think shouldn't have any problem at all :)

i bet the searches for this just went up a thousand fold.....

i bet the searches for this just went up a thousand fold.....
:lol:
I was just thinking the same thing :thumbsup:

I received mine this morning...
Care to share where you bought it in the end?

Care to share where you bought it in the end?


Of course, I bought it on a french online store (the "expensive" place I was talking about :naughty: ) and finally discovered that there was a 20% discount on the item.

Then I paid less than 16 euros for two boxes sent to France in 2 days.

here is the link to the item in the store:

http://www.karinouchka.com/epages/147261.sf/fr_FR/?ObjectPath=/Shops/147261/Products/Oyumaru

Interesting, but what about detail reproduction? The greatest advantage of silicon is its liquid character, which enables accurate reproduction of fine surface details. What about this product? Could it capture scripts and emblems?

I might have to try this, time saver for small parts!!

Would this Oyumaru be similar to Utile-Plast?

http://www.utileplast.com/

Utile-Plast is readily available in hardware stores (like ACE) here in our country and somehow has similar qualities ('cept for the candy colors) to Oyumaru. Might be a good alternative to Oyumaru?

Would this Oyumaru be similar to Utile-Plast?

http://www.utileplast.com/

Utile-Plast is readily available in hardware stores (like ACE) here in our country and somehow has similar qualities ('cept for the candy colors) to Oyumaru. Might be a good alternative to Oyumaru?

Never use Utile-plast, judging from the shape it looks like shapelock(usa), polymorphe pallet(UK). Yup you can make mould with it but the only problem is when it cool down. It is solid hard, and it is very difficult to demould

Hi guys,

just to let you know that yesterday evening I prepared several 1/43 parts I've been needing to cast for months to be casted in resin with oyumaru molds...
I wil let you know the result but I'm really confident, this product really sounds like the easiest and quickest possible to use to cast some poor detailed parts.
(I still believe I won't cast high detailed structure tyres or something like that but it will surely be usefull for almost everything else !)

Hi guys,

First test, first results :naughty:

I didn't cast anything since a long time, so the results of these tests can be improve with practice, I think I didn't do as weel as my last casts...

The first thing to say about oyumaru is there is no problem casting with resin.
that's what I did.

second thing, It is not as performant as silicon resin, it is harder to do a proper mold to cast details because of the nature if the product (not fluid) but that's what makes this product simple and quick to use...
So see biths sides when thinking to use it and think to advantages and disadvantages of the two methods.

I tried to cast 1/43 rims and inserts to fit in, 50% is not perfect, not complete, the other 50% is nice.
But I can't swear problem isn't my lack of recent practice and the resin mix I did maybe not good enough (resin and hardener) to easierly fill the gaps... :shakehead
or maybe simply the fact 1/3 is harder to cast than 1/24 ? :rolleyes:

In fact I think I should have done that a different way to put resin inside the molds, maybe vertical chemneys or more chemneys...? :screwy:
I will think about it next time.

I don't know exactly what but I did something wrong even if Oyumaru can't catch (small) details as silicon resin (which is fluid), because nevertheless it works quite fine for half of my parts ! :evillol:


the parts themselves are still drying so I only have the pics of the molds I did for the moment,I will take pictures of the parts later in the morning or day when completely dry (I don't want to take the risk to ruin my work :p)


http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/miniatures/Moulages/Moulages_001.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/miniatures/Moulages/Moulages_002.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/miniatures/Moulages/Moulages_003.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/miniatures/Moulages/Moulages_004.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/miniatures/Moulages/Moulages_005.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/miniatures/Moulages/Moulages_006.jpg


My advice would definitely be to buy some (that's far cheaper than resin) and try yourself, you may achieve a good result with most of your simple and/or large parts.
casting details will not be easy but shouldn't be impossible...
I think it depends on your skills (I have big lack of casting practice these last years !) and on the resin you will use with, if using resin of course.
I didn't try two parts epoxy but that could be the best solution.


here are conclusions for the moment, If you don't care I'll put pictures of the parts later...

There's a similar kind of product on Ebay try this http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38.l1313&_nkw=polymorph I've often wondered if this stuff was worth trying, so a big thanx leokc_ng for this tut

or for Oyumaru itself in the UK http://www.artclayshop.co.uk/product_details_183.htm

There's a similar kind of product on Ebay try this http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=m38.l1313&_nkw=polymorph I've often wondered if this stuff was worth trying, so a big thanx leokc_ng for this tut

or for Oyumaru itself in the UK http://www.artclayshop.co.uk/product_details_183.htm

I did try polymorph before, the main problem with polymorph is it is solid hard when it is cool, so it make it very difficult to demould.

ok, ok...

i've bought 6 strips of this new thing...now i need to do some casting off metal parts. i've read all the posts here too.

please contribute more if you have any feedbacks & results...i need them to guide me here. this is my first time casting in any form!

help!

ok, ok...

i've bought 6 strips of this new thing...now i need to do some casting off metal parts. i've read all the posts here too.

please contribute more if you have any feedbacks & results...i need them to guide me here. this is my first time casting in any form!

help!

Don't worry Marc, IMO you'll do fine.

All I can say is: "trial and error". You learn best when you try it yourself.

Good luck and keep us updated!

got 1 question, resin putty and epoxy putty are the same thing?

got 1 question, resin putty and epoxy putty are the same thing?

Resin putty is a more general name, epoxy being one of the different kinds of resin.

So an epoxy putty is for sure a resin putty, but a resin putty can be an epoxy putty but also some other kind of putty.

Resin putty is a more general name, epoxy being one of the different kinds of resin.

So an epoxy putty is for sure a resin putty, but a resin putty can be an epoxy putty but also some other kind of putty.
What kind of putty is potty putty? ;)

BTW I ordered some Oyumaru today :)

What kind of putty is potty putty? ;)

That's a polymer. :p

That's a polymer. :p
Yes, but is it the putty that is polymerized or the potty? :naughty: :D

i found some on the US side
http://www.artclayworld.com/product_info.php

how much comes in one container?

Is it possible to cast a 1/24 car body with oyumaru, and what putty do you recomend to have in bolk, or would it not be practical, i have a few rare rally cars that i would like to cast, on a cheaper basis than resin casting, any help would be apriciated

Seems hard to me to cast a full 1/24 body, at least because you would need a lot of Oyumaru sticks !!
It wouldn't be easy to apply to a full body and all its details because it hardens quite quickly once out of warm water...
bigger the quantity of oyumaru is harder it is to put it in form around or in the part to cast because you have to do it faster.
My best results were get with small parts or parts like spoilers as in this topic first example.


here are some of the 1/43 rims I casted with oyumaru:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/miniatures/Peugeot%20104%20ZS%20maxi/104-maxi_039.jpg

Is it possible to cast a 1/24 car body with oyumaru, and what putty do you recomend to have in bolk, or would it not be practical, i have a few rare rally cars that i would like to cast, on a cheaper basis than resin casting, any help would be apriciated

Maybe not impossible, but completely impractical. Casting a whole body is a difficult operation. You're not likely to find a way of doing it cheap and easy that will give you usable results. Unless you really have professional level experience and equipment, it would probably be cheaper and more practical to buy the kits on Ebay than it would be to try to cast your own copies.

humm, so this method is good for smaller parts...

is there any japanese modelor around?

maybe there are some matching materials lying around, that go with this type for a full body casting!? Or there must be some limitations as to what this can do or can't do, so there must be some form of instruction as to how to maximise the use. it's all in japanese so we need a translater here...

i'm sticking onto this particular topic closely cos' i just can't seem to find smaller parts that i urgently needed anywhere in the world, be it cheap or expensive!!! i want some proper manual on how to use it effectively so i can start casting all my ferrari 250 parts & pieces. i'm sick of waiting & waiting!

marc

Maybe not impossible, but completely impractical. Casting a whole body is a difficult operation. You're not likely to find a way of doing it cheap and easy that will give you usable results. Unless you really have professional level experience and equipment, it would probably be cheaper and more practical to buy the kits on Ebay than it would be to try to cast your own copies.


Making the whole mold out of Oyumaru is not very practical, that's sure.
But what about making the exterior part of the mould out of silicon rubber and the interior part using Oyumaru?!

We are talking about reducing the price of a mold by some 40%.
Instead of 1 liter of silicon rubber you'll only need 0,6 liter, which means that you will pay around of 20€ for the mould.
A 1/24 scale body needs around 100 ml resin. (around 30€/liter for good quality PU resin).

This means that for 25€ + the price of the reusable Oyumaru (let's say 10€), one can cast a 1/24 resin body shell of a rare kit.

If you cast it twice you're already down to 20€/copy!

I've seen very few 1/24 resin bodies that you can get for as little as 35€.

Making the whole mold out of Oyumaru is not very practical, that's sure.
But what about making the exterior part of the mould out of silicon rubber and the interior part using Oyumaru?!


That may be much more realistic. You would of course need to figure out how to locate the interior part inside the exterior when pouring resin- but if you can make a usable exterior portion, you should be able to manage that as well.

You would of course need to figure out how to locate the interior part inside the exterior when pouring resin

ahh... but what if you already have a negative of the interior of a body shell and just need a refined exterior half of the cast?

Has anyone tried the release agent spray normally used for silicone molds to help remove the oyumaru?

This means that for 25€ + the price of the reusable Oyumaru (let's say 10€), one can cast a 1/24 resin body shell of a rare kit.

I would be pleased to see you showing us how to cast a 1/24 body with oyumaru... :grinyes: :lol:
especially for only 10 euros of oyumaru ! :screwy::loser:

i'm buying a pack of 24 sticks of oyumaru in ebay right now, for GBP9.99.
yes, each stick is even smaller than a packet of 5-piece chewing gum...size for size.

it depends on just how much we can study / learn on this tiny little wonder, then we could safely say it CAN / CANNOT do a full car body.
of course, if we were to use a big amount of it to cast, we have to use the 'lego' method. like i've said, we need to experiment with it first...

i can see there are still many unknowns pertaining to the usage & ability of this oyumaru...could someone who know alittle more than me...please stand up!?!?

any japanese translater!?!?
marc

What ?? 10 euros ?? are you kidding ?? :eek:
and where do you take these 10 euros from ?? :screwy:
that's only a few more than the price of one pack...
Do you really think you will have enough with one or two pack to cast a 1/24 body ??!! :sly:

Here, I ordered one of these this past week end, and I think it will be more than enough to fill the interior of a 1/24 car body shell.

http://cgi.ebay.at/Oyumaru-Moulding-stick-24pcs-set_W0QQitemZ250383041155QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Toy sGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN?hash=item25038304115 5&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177

Also I only mentioned using Oyumaru for the interior part of the mould not for the whole mould.

ah yes jano11, this is the same set i'm gonna buy later.

plus the other 6 sticks in hand, let's see what i can do with it.
but i need to fnd some really liquid putty fill to get a good cast result(no air bubbles)...

THAT WHY I NEED I JAPANESE MODELOR TO GO & FIND OUT WHAT ARE THE COMPATIBLE MATERIALS OUT THERE!!!:banghead:

nippon san, where are you!:icon16:

Here, I ordered one of these this past week end, and I think it will be more than enough to fill the interior of a 1/24 car body shell.

http://cgi.ebay.at/Oyumaru-Moulding-stick-24pcs-set_W0QQitemZ250383041155QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Toy sGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN?hash=item25038304115 5&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177

Also I only mentioned using Oyumaru for the interior part of the mould not for the whole mould.
Ok that's why I changed my post... I didn't see there was a new package with so many sticks...
mines only contains 7 small sticks.


it depends on just how much we can study / learn on this tiny little wonder, then we could safely say it CAN / CANNOT do a full car body.

Marc, I already used oyumaru, that's why I think I CAN talk about my experience and CAN say it will be almost impossible to use oyumaru even only on the inside of a 1/24 body to cast it.

it hardens too fast to let you enough time to apply it in each corners and over each details of a body (spoiler, air intake etc) and get a perfectly tight mold.
don't forget it's not liquid resin-like, it's paste-like, it takes forms by your fingers action and hardens in only a minute or so...!

I tried with a 1/43 scale body; it's already hard at this scale top get something convincing...


But if you can do it I'll be pleased to watch it ! :grinyes: And learn about it... :icon16:

well rallymaster,

now that you know both jano11 & i are armed with 24 & 30 sticks respectively, do rest assure we all will make something out of this together & share the info right here in this thread.

cheers!
marc

incidentally, if you want to use less silicone and not keen on working with something so uncontrollable fluid, you can get thickening agents to add to your silicone mix that can if you add enough, turn it into a soft mass that you can squish around like plastercine.

negates the need to over use silicone when making molds.

Permit me to be very sceptical about the feasibility, practicality and economy of trying to mold a car body in 1/24 using this stuff (Yes, I do have some in my workshop).

Firstly, based on my limited experience in resin casting, you need a lot more than just a thin skin of mold (even for the inside of a car body) and then it will be VERY expensive.

Secondly, you will need to make the mold each time you cast a new body (probably)

Thirdly, what is a body without the floor plan, interior, suspension..........etc etc. so you will need a loooooooooooooot of Oyumaru-san ;)

Fourthly, Silicone is not all that expensive if you look around. I buy 1kg of silicone rubber for approx 20GBP

Fifthly, before you start trying to cast 1/24 car bodies, you'd better start off seeing of you can cast simpler parts successfully otherwise what you "save" on silicone rubber you'll be spending on wasted resin :D

Sixthly, I don't mean to sound either negative or critical - just sharing my thoughts and perpsective :ylsuper:

ah yes jano11, this is the same set i'm gonna buy later.

plus the other 6 sticks in hand, let's see what i can do with it.
but i need to fnd some really liquid putty fill to get a good cast result(no air bubbles)...

THAT WHY I NEED I JAPANESE MODELOR TO GO & FIND OUT WHAT ARE THE COMPATIBLE MATERIALS OUT THERE!!!:banghead:

nippon san, where are you!:icon16:
I can read Japanese, but I've never read its instruction or any suggestions online.:iceslolan

To save money, you can reuse silicone rubber. You just have to cut a hardened mold into pieces, and use them as a filler for the next mold. That way, you only need just enough fresh silicone to cover the new master, and the rest can be filled with chopped-up old silicone.

Fourthly, Silicone is not all that expensive if you look around. I buy 1kg of silicone rubber for approx 20GBP

The price of the silicone rubber would be OK if the shipping wouldn't be so damn expensive. Last time I asked in UK I almost fall off the chair when they told me that being classed as hazardous the shipping price is more than if I take the plane and pick it up myself! :grinyes:

To save money, you can reuse silicone rubber. You just have to cut a hardened mold into pieces, and use them as a filler for the next mold. That way, you only need just enough fresh silicone to cover the new master, and the rest can be filled with chopped-up old silicone.

That's something I never thought about. :banghead:
Once a mold is deteriorating it has no other use than this!

Thanks for sharing this idea! :thumbsup:

The price of the silicone rubber would be OK if the shipping wouldn't be so damn expensive. Last time I asked in UK I almost fall off the chair when they told me that being classed as hazardous the shipping price is more than if I take the plane and pick it up myself! :grinyes:
Who said I buy it in the UK?!?! :biggrin:

Ioan, you always moan about how much something costs and then go and buy 6000 kits that you won't build :iceslolan:iceslolan ;)

but i need to fnd some really liquid putty fill to get a good cast result(no air bubbles)...

Get some resin, it will be better quality, more resistant and cheaper.

Who said I buy it in the UK?!?! :biggrin:

Well you used GBP for currency.
Maybe you should have used Zloty!

Ioan, you always moan about how much something costs and then go and buy 6000 kits that you won't build :iceslolan:iceslolan ;)

You're right about the kits :biggrin: (not 6000 though), but really the stuff was cheap however they told me the shipping from UK to Austria for 2 kg Silicone rubber and 2 kg resin would have been some 200€!

Anyway, I've got little time this year, for such experiments and before starting to cast something I'll need to produce the prototype working during the late night hours.