I just finished work on my 91 geo metro 1.0 automatic. I did the following:

New valves
New valve seals
New rings
New main bearings
New rod bearings
New water pump
New timing belt
New head gasket & head bolts
New fuel filter/air filter/transmission fluid and filter/spark plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor... blah blah blah.

It took 3 days off and on and waiting for parts etc.

When I was done I had to adjust the idle higher ( a while back I had to turn it down ) so I guess that may be a good thing. (not sure what the cause is/was?)

It is putting out a bit of blue smoke is this normal after doing this work and if so how long before it clears up?

How long after doing this should I change my oil or how many miles. My manual didn't give any specifics?

Will the compression improve after the rings and freshly honed cylinders get broke in? I haven't did a compression test yet just wanted to ask.

I didn't replace the lifters as they are very expensive. They seem to be louder than before. I put them back where they came from. Will this clear up or could I be looking at a possible problem?

I got stuck using a damn beam type torque wrench on the head bolts. I got them to 54 ft lbs as stated in the manual and with the bolt documents. I went back to recheck them they wouldn't budge even when I pushed it toward 60 ft lbs. Did I over tighten them?

I'm a bit concerned about the new valves. I spent plenty of time grinding each one using Permatex valve grinding compound but was later told I had to use 2 different types. Is that true?

I took a few of photo's and if this thing works out I will make a post of my work. I'm kinda freaking out and almost scared to drive it. This is my first time doing something like this and I keep asking myself if I missed something or did something wrong. Thanks in advance for any help and advice...

I did my Rings and Rod Bearings while the Head was being rebuilt for me.

"It is putting out a bit of blue smoke is this normal after doing this work and if so how long before it clears up?"

Mine smoked for a short time - the rings need to wear in, so oil will get past them
for a little while - no worries.

How long after doing this should I change my oil or how many miles. My manual didn't give any specifics?

If you have put on a new filter (?), maybe change it at 100 miles...(?)
Oil and filters are cheap - good insurance for all the effort and money put in.

You are "breaking in" a new engine essentially - take it easy for maybe 500
miles. Don't push anything. Keep the rpm's down.

Don't know about the other questions....someone else can address that.

My '93 was done about 20,000 miles ago and runs like a top and I get 48 mpg
with all sorts of power.

I was so worried I had buggered something up that I spun the engine with the starter with
all the plugs out just to make sure nothing was going to bind - did that for several minutes.
I figured that spinning the engine with just the starter wouldn't break anything if I had
screwed the pooch.

I was nervous as Hell for quite a while.
Couldn't believe that I had not done something wrong!
Was expecting a "Big Bang" and the engine to explode!
Never happened.....knock on wood.

Enjoy the fruits of your labor.

DoctorBill

Thanks Dr. Bill. The smoke is clearing up if not gone. I haven't driven it but a few miles but I have let it idle quite a bit. The car is running better and cooler. I had put in a 160 thermostat a while back perhaps I should go back to the 180. It doesn't seem to have more power than before but it doesn't have as much power loss going up hill as before. I'm going to keep a close eye on it. I have to say your (NOT the end of my '93 metro...Life after death! RINGS) thread was a huge help in this along with Johnny Mullet's head guide. My lifters seem to be quieting down some too. Now I just need a new exhaust. It leaks just below the manifold and there appears to be some rust holes just past the gutted catalytic converter. I did use a new filter and have another with a jug of oil on hand and ready to go.

I also used a lower temp thermostat...I wanted it running cooler to give the
engine and rubber a break - probably less efficient, but I'm getting 49 mpg's
average all during the summer. MPG's drop to about 43 in the winter...

As for Power - yes! That is EXACTLY where the power shows up ! Going up hills!

That's where you need it !

I don't freeway drive - Ah'm just an ol' countrah boy an' ahh stays back heaya in
dem country roads with mah Bible an my guns...outa da way of dem Bovine, clod pated, cityfied,
high steppin', democrat, Obama lovin', rich speed daemons.

Use 5W-40 oil only - I understand the Lifter's oil holes are tiny and heavier oil
makes them knock.

You'll need to get the exhaust system fixed to make the proper back pressure
for the engine to run right.

Is your O2 sensor OK ?

Make sure there are no vacuum leaks.

Did you clean out the EGR ports and tubes from the Manifold - thru the EGR -
back to the back of the Throttle Body ? Often they are totally plugged with CARBON !

Clean, new Air Filter and PCV valve. The latter can screw up an engine if bad - costs under $5.

That's about all I know - you've reached the limit of my automotive intellect.

DoctorBill

I'll get the exhaust fixed in the next couple of weeks. I do have a new PCV air filter and O2 sensor. My metro doesn't have an EGR valve. Thank god! One less thing to deal with. I just got in from putting about 35 miles on it. It seems to be running great and the lifters have toned down on a lot of the noise. No smoke and power seems to be restored and then some. I'm using 5W-30 and will change it and the filter in a few days. I keep checking the oil for any signs of metal or darkening but it looks great. Time will tell though. I'm actually quite pleased with the results. Now I need to remove and clean the interior. Ever since I bought the car it's smell like a fresh fart every time you open the door. MMMMMMMM... That used car smell...:lol:

Congrats on the successful rebuild. I was also worried after my rebuild, but everything turned out great. Those lifters are expensive to replace and if you did not dismantle and clean them from the carbon (remember what the combustion chamber looked like?) then they might need some help. I also had this issue and started using Seafoam.

From my site............

I learned in my experience with the 3 cylinder Suzuki engine, that these are notorious for carbon buildup. Carbon eventually clogs up EGR passages and also EGR valves and PCV Valves. After time, carbon also builds up on the valves and when the combustion chamber continues to burn these carbon deposits, the exhaust valves end up failing and compression is lost. Here is how I maintain my engine :deal

I use 5W30 Synthetic motor oil and a high quality Baldwin filter and change my oil at 5000 mile intervals. To keep the carbon under control, I use a product that has been around for years known as SeaFoam. It's available at most parts stores. When my oil is at 4000 miles, I add 1/3 of the can to the engine oil, 1/3 to the gas tank, and the remaining 1/3 goes directly into the throttle body.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/planetetf/sf2.jpg

To use it in the throttle body, you must have a warm engine. Remove the air cleaner assembly and with the engine running, slowly pour the remaining 1/3 can of seafoam into the throttle body. You must have your hand on the throttle to keep the engine from stalling.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/planetetf/sf5.jpg

After the entire contents are poured in, turn the engine off. Reassemble the air filter housing and wait a full 5 minutes. After that, start the car up and take it for a nice drive

Note: the smoke coming from the exhaust may be extreme for several minutes

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/planetetf/sf.jpg

I used to use Seafoam but decided it's cheaper to make my own. Seafoam is Naphtha, isopropanol, and pale oil. Naphtha is also known as white gas or Coleman Fuel. Isopropanol is also known as isopropal alcohol or rubbing alcohol. Pale oil is just light mineral oil.

Just get a 2 gallon gas can and pour in 1 gallon of Coleman Fuel, 1 quart of 91% rubbing alcohol, and 1 pint of 2/cycle oil. Seems to work just as well and is a lot cheaper.

BTW: On the valve grinding compound. There is a corse compound, like corse sandpaper and a fine compound. You'll get a shinier finish by finishing up with the fine stuff but it probably won't make much difference.

Q

Thanks, I cleaned the lifters out pretty good with brake cleaner then let them soak in oil for about 2 days while I waited for my new intake and exhaust valves to arrive. I have used seafoam in the past and actually used it on this metro just a few months back. I just drove the car up a hill I go up every day and was able to maintain the speed limit all the way up for the first time. I didn't even have to get a running go. I'll try to make a post of my work with
photo's soon. Wait till you see my valve spring tool...:lol2: It was a pain in the ass to use but worked out.