89 camaro with start problems

So i have been trying to fix my car all summer and have done a number of things. whenever i start my camaro it is rough and sometimes will stall out and will run better once it warms up. but its worst in the morning or at night when i leave it sit for a while.
so far i have..
changed the fuel filter in the spring
changed pcv valve and some of the vacuum lines
changed the plugs and wires
changed the timing and replaced the distributer cap and rotor button
removed the cat converter
replaced the oxygen sensor and map sensor
cleaned out the egr valve
and it is still acting up i am getting codes 32 and 44

what do i try next?

you changed it about all it. but i never seen coil or pick-up coil in dist i'm not saying that it's your problem but sounds like out of time or like i say pick-up coil could be the probem that and timing.

the ignition coil went bad last summer is that the one your talking about?
and ive changed the timing twice

the ignition coil went bad last summer is that the one your talking about?
and ive changed the timing twice
No, the pickup coil in in the distributor and the distributor has to be removed and disassembled to get to it.

code 32 is egr, and 44 is lean exhaust. I think both of those codes are stored and unrelated to your starting problem. Put a new coolant temperature sensor in. I'm pretty sure your problem lies there. Autozone part number SU109. cost around $12

yes the coil but you have another pick-up coil that runs in dist. it has two wires running to it under dist. cap. by the way have you had dist. out at one time?

i will try the coolant temp sensor to start and all ive done so far with the distributer is removed the dist cap and replaced that and the rotor button

so i changed the coolant temp sensor and it didnt change much and got a code 52 and still 32 and 44 and i cleared the codes and they are gone for now so what next?

how many miles you got on this? because to many i set timing by listening to it run because so many miles you cant set them really with timing light if that's what your doing? you never answered if you had dist out? but yes you got to take dist out to put picup coil in it. if you got miles on it it's time for one anyway. only other thing i can think of is it's choking out until it warms up. you may want to check see if vaccum going to carb for advance it may not get enough vaccum there.

"52 engine oil temperature circuit, low temperature indicated"

that code is related to the temperature sensor you replace. try clearing the codes out by d/c the battery for a few minutes and start it up again.

Start by ohming each injector. They should be 15-17 ohms and not have .5 difference between any 2 injectors. Do this warm and cold. You have the infamous Multec injectors and they are known to be garbage. If they fail the ohm check, junk them, no one will clean/service them. That is if you have TPI.
If they are bad look here for replacements http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_Sets.html

it has 153000 miles on it and i replaced all the bad vacuum cables i could find
i have only taken out the distributer cap so far but thats it. when i changed the timing the first time we used a timing light and im not sure i wasnt there for the second time and for the injectors its a 5.0 v8 throttle body not tpi so could it still be that? once it runs its sounds like nothing is wrong its just getting it going sometimes

Yes, it still could be the injectors. For TBI you are looking for in the neighborhood of 1.5 ohms. It has been suggested to use a timing light pointing down the TBI unit while running to check the spray pattern of the injectors...You'll know if you have a bad one, it won't be putting out a cone of fuel.

Did you hook the tan wire back up after changing the timing?

the 2nd time i had the timing changed was in a shop so im guessing they did

i put some 94 octane gas in it yesterday and its driving better but i know that doesnt mean its fixed

i still say you cant set the timing with timing light it has to many miles on it. heres what i would do is advance it until it high idles then back up to retared it until iy sounds right. then take it down the road and it still does it retared it just a little more while your on the road that means get out and retared it on the road.

i still say you cant set the timing with timing light it has to many miles on it. .

Out of curiosity, how do you arrive at this conclusion?

I also am of the impression, no offense to original poster, that he's not adapt yet for this practice.

Lastly, i would double check the plugs you put in and make sure they are the correct part number and gap, the gap specifications were mis-printed in several manuals, go with what is on the vehicle emissions sticker (part # s/b there too). Oh, and if you put any gimmick plugs (platnums, multi-tip, etc) definately yank em and go with what GM calls for, on ALL ignition components, when you get cheap, you get problems.

There is NO reason why you can't set the timing on an older vehicle using a timing light, no reason what-so-ever. The timing light is the MOST accurate way to set timing consistantly.

Have you had a look at the injector's spray pattern yet?

Out of curiosity, how do you arrive at this conclusion?

I also am of the impression, no offense to original poster, that he's not adapt yet for this practice.

Lastly, i would double check the plugs you put in and make sure they are the correct part number and gap, the gap specifications were mis-printed in several manuals, go with what is on the vehicle emissions sticker (part # s/b there too). Oh, and if you put any gimmick plugs (platnums, multi-tip, etc) definately yank em and go with what GM calls for, on ALL ignition components, when you get cheap, you get problems.
because i ran cars setting factory timing when a little to much warnen on the moters so you go buy sound and power after driving it so you have to compasate. even the tempature out side will throw it off on that many miles this i'm sure of..no affense.

because i ran cars setting factory timing when a little to much warnen on the moters so you go buy sound and power after driving it so you have to compasate. even the tempature out side will throw it off on that many miles this i'm sure of..no affense.

I'm sorry, don't understand a word of that. What I did get is a constant refrence to how many miles are on the motor, and as Morley stated, that has absolutely no bearing on factory timing. And what does temperature have to do with anything? :dunno:

Just trying to understand your logic here.

The only "wear" that would affect ignition timing would be the timing chain, but that would also show up as cam timing problems and cause all sorts of other starting/running problems.
As far as temp affecting the timing setting...how? Temprature won't affect anything in the ignition system, short of burning it up.

well if timing is off it will run hotter and you turn it off it will strugle to start. and i disagree that factory timing because moter is waren inside so you do have to listen to get the power you want. and yes you can set the timing that it calls for.but i guess you did that did it do you any good? no...i'm done with this thread because you cant under stand.

well if timing is off it will run hotter and you turn it off it will strugle to start.

This I understand and agree with, true.

and i disagree that factory timing because moter is waren inside so you do have to listen to get the power you want.

That is what I don't understand, what in the sanduskies is a "waren" motor? If it supposed to worn motor, than I get the drift, yes, bump up the timing a few degrees and put a little pep back in it.

and yes you can set the timing that it calls for.but i guess you did that did it do you any good? no...i'm done with this thread because you cant under stand.

Geez relax, I'm only asking for clarification of your point and what you were trying to say, but hey, you're done, have a nice day. :crying:

wow, no "affense" but...what a tard.

the pattern from the 2 injectors in the throttle body looked good to me i cleaned the carb and took off the gas cap and its running better but havent done anything but change the egr solenoid

the pattern from the 2 injectors in the throttle body looked good to me i cleaned the carb and took off the gas cap and its running better but havent done anything but change the egr solenoid
That alone could cause ALL of the problems you were having. If the EGR solenoid was stuck open then you had a constant vacuum leak and were sucking in exhaust gas when it shouldn't be (ie; at idle) and that would make it very difficult to start a hot engine.

i wish that would have fixed everything but it is still acting up some
today for example it stalled out a couple of times on me when trying to start it

it was raining out i dont think had anything to do with it but when its cold out lately it seems to run a little better

i wish that would have fixed everything but it is still acting up some
today for example it stalled out a couple of times on me when trying to start it

it was raining out i dont think had anything to do with it but when its cold out lately it seems to run a little better
Make sure your distributor cap is in correctly and tightly and has no cracks. If ANY moisture gets in there it can cause problems. Most cars do tend to run better when it is cooler outside.

I will check it but I don't see it being cracked I replaced a couple months ago along with the rotor button, plugs, and wires

I will check it but I don't see it being cracked I replaced a couple months ago along with the rotor button, plugs, and wires
If it wasn't on right and you tightened it down it will crack. Just pull it and look for moisture in it, any moisture.