97 U-joint replacement
gmbwrenchn
10-05-2008, 01:30 PM
97 Blazer 146k miles. I want to replace the rear u-joint in back of the drive axle by the pumpkin. Looks like there are plastic pins in one side of the universal joint. Please tell me how to go about getting this u-joint off. The two straps and 4 bolts are easy to get off, but after that,it's a mystery to me. Thanks.
mike2004tct
10-05-2008, 08:05 PM
97 Blazer 146k miles. I want to replace the rear u-joint in back of the drive axle by the pumpkin. Looks like there are plastic pins in one side of the universal joint. Please tell me how to go about getting this u-joint off. The two straps and 4 bolts are easy to get off, but after that,it's a mystery to me. Thanks.
If it's the original u-joints (without clips holding the cups on the yoke), you'll need to heat the joint cups and yokes until you see the nylon like material come out of the weep holes on the sides of the yoke. You can then compress the cups in (with a C clamp, or some other type of pres) until one of them comes free of the yoke, allowing easy removal of the other cup.
It takes quite a bit of heat to do this. I needed 2 hand held torches to do it.
If it's the original u-joints (without clips holding the cups on the yoke), you'll need to heat the joint cups and yokes until you see the nylon like material come out of the weep holes on the sides of the yoke. You can then compress the cups in (with a C clamp, or some other type of pres) until one of them comes free of the yoke, allowing easy removal of the other cup.
It takes quite a bit of heat to do this. I needed 2 hand held torches to do it.
gmbwrenchn
10-30-2008, 09:13 PM
Thanks for that info.
Rick Norwood
10-31-2008, 01:34 PM
Here is a old blog that basically agrees with Mike.
When I did the U-Joints on an older GM Rear Wheel Drive it went something like this. Once you remove the nuts on the U-Bolts and remove the driveshaft from the vehicle, you may notice that there are no snap rings or retainer clips on the U-Joints. You will probably see a small hole in the top of the yoke over each bearing cap. The small hole in mine was filled with an Orange plastic that is injected into the hole at the factory and holds the cap in place. To replace the U-Joint you have to remove the plastic and ultimately the bearing cap on each of the yokes. The easiest method is to go to your favorite hardware store and buy a small propane plumber’s torch (usually $20). Fire up the torch and heat up each leg of the yoke. You should start seeing the plastic stream out of the hole like toothpaste and more than likely the bearing cap will actually pop. Once the cap pops, you may need to tap or press it the rest of the way out. Repeat this until all of the caps are removed. Clean up the yoke and then install your new U-Joints. Replacement U-Joints will have clips or snap rings to hold them in.
When I did the U-Joints on an older GM Rear Wheel Drive it went something like this. Once you remove the nuts on the U-Bolts and remove the driveshaft from the vehicle, you may notice that there are no snap rings or retainer clips on the U-Joints. You will probably see a small hole in the top of the yoke over each bearing cap. The small hole in mine was filled with an Orange plastic that is injected into the hole at the factory and holds the cap in place. To replace the U-Joint you have to remove the plastic and ultimately the bearing cap on each of the yokes. The easiest method is to go to your favorite hardware store and buy a small propane plumber’s torch (usually $20). Fire up the torch and heat up each leg of the yoke. You should start seeing the plastic stream out of the hole like toothpaste and more than likely the bearing cap will actually pop. Once the cap pops, you may need to tap or press it the rest of the way out. Repeat this until all of the caps are removed. Clean up the yoke and then install your new U-Joints. Replacement U-Joints will have clips or snap rings to hold them in.
gmbwrenchn
11-02-2008, 08:41 PM
Thanks for that as well.
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