1999 Park Avenue Ultra Security Indicator
1999 Park Avenue Ultra Security Indicator
09-22-2008, 07:55 PM
I found some other threads asking various questions, so I will also mention this:
1) It has never not started
2) I have never had the lights/horn alarm go off when I wouldn't have expected it to (except when the panic button would disable it and I suspect something in my pocket got it)
09-23-2008, 07:12 PM
You have the PK3 system which is totally different than what you may have read on most other GM vehicles. You really need to have it scanned for codes. My guess either you have an issue with your key or the decoder is bad.
09-23-2008, 09:11 PM
When you say scanned, do you mean by one of the devices that can read history, or one that reads current problems? I ask because the latter can be used for free at many parts stores, so I could certainly have them check it. The only problem is, I have no doubt the light would have to be on. I am concerned that driving with the light on could lead to the fuel pump being disabled, as one of my Park Avenue manuals indicated this could happen (I don't remember if it was my 93 PA or my 99 PAU). I would have to drive far enough that this would happen if it was going to, so I don't want to risk that (if it is a risk). Also, while I would think the key might be bad, the security light consistently comes on with the first start in the morning, and then not again for the rest of the day, I don't have to pull the key out or flip it over or jiggle it (any more than turning it off and starting the car again) or anything to get rid of the light. I also have a spare key I could try, as I think this one is an original while I had the spare made in 2004. I didn't particularly want to do that because I think it might be a driver 2 key while I have a driver 1 keyless remote. I am the only driver, so both memories are set the same, but enough stuff on this car acts goofy that I wouldn't be surprised if the settings didn't work right. Even that wouldn't be a big deal except the seat motor assembly is broken, so I prefer to move the seat as little as possible.
09-25-2008, 04:37 PM
Yeah, try the other key and see if the problem persists. If so, you'll have to have it professionally scanned and not by those $99 DIY jobs that many national parts chain stores use. You have to get a hold of one that can show "real time" data along with stored codes.
10-06-2008, 02:21 PM
Well, I finally tried the new key. I've used it for a week or two now, and it does the same thing. I had this key made shortly after buying the car in 2003, and I have never used it. It doesn't do it every day, and it certainly seems to be related to the temperature in the morning. The thing is, I can turn the key on without starting the car, wait for the security light to shut off, and turn the key off and on again if it doesn't. I usually forget and just start the car, but I have verified that works. However, once I had to kill and start the car twice. Regarding a scanner (vs a code reader?), what real time data do I need to capture? Finally, can anyone tell me what the expected behavior would be (in various scenarios if necessary) should I drive the car with the security light on (say, 50 miles)?
10-06-2008, 10:09 PM
Well with the proper scanner you will be able to see what the BCM is suppose to see as in relation to the proper resistance. Then you can see what is actually being sent to the bcm. Yes, you can drive the car while the light is on. That's telling you the BCM has seen a fault in the system and is doing the fail-enable mode. This is what a lot of people see when they cut the yellow wire and leave it like that.
10-19-2008, 09:52 AM
Alright, so it sounds like I need to have a professional look at this. The thing is, it doesn't do it consistently anymore. It no longer seems to be temperature related, as I have seen it not do it in the morning and then do it at lunch time now. Additionally, I have gone a week without seeing it happen. That said, I'd hate to pay someone for daignostics only to have them spend hours and/or not find anything wrong. Do I need to wait until it fails permanently, or are there other options? I know I saw ways to bypass the PKII, and not that I want to bypasse this, but I don't think I've seen ways to do so on the PKIII, but you mention resistance, so I figure maybe it's a possibility. (Seems odd to me that a resistance would be used on an RF system that can have 10 different RF signatures programmed into it)
10-24-2008, 09:43 PM
Well actually the PKIII is a RF based system. That's why you don't read about people bypassing it. Also, compared to the PK1 and PK2 systems these are much better and aren't prone to failure like their counterparts. If you have a good shop that has the proper scanner he'll see the stored codes that will tell why it is failing.
BTW, if you have another key, you could try to use that for a while to see if it still acts up.
11-19-2008, 09:57 PM
Well, even as it has been getting colder out, this has stopped happening. I believe it happened only once, and that was at lunch time, in the last three weeks. However, Monday, I drove to work at ~7 AM, and locked the car with the remote as usual upon arrival. I went to lunch at ~2PM, unlocking the car with the remote. This is all as usual, only when I got in the car and started it up, I got "Unknown Driver" on the DIC. All of the counters were reset (trip 1, trip 2, oil life, avg fuel mileage, gallons used, etc). I don't know about the radio stuff, as I haven't been listening to it. I saved my seat positions just in case and drove to lunch. On the way back to work everything was normal again. I am curious as to whether or not it is likely that this would be related at all. I assume the PKIII system keeps track of which driver owns which key, but I don't know. I am thinking it might be a ground problem, but I wouldn't know where to begin looking on that, so I was wondering if anyone could suggest a ground likely to be related (and hoping it would be easy to access).
11-19-2008, 10:55 PM
I do not know if this will help. My 01 the dic used to change to unknown driver, no trip mileage etc. at start up, tried different keys. Then as it got colder the security light would come on at start up and stay on while driving...I do not remember if shutting up the car if it would reset. Anyways, I ended up replacing the battery last week. All my dic problems and security light being are solved as of now. If you have a spare battery try it out it may work. This is only my opionon. Good luck.
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