A/C compressor problems...

Well, my '95 Blazer has about 92,000 miles, and I believe my clutch bearings are going on my air conditioning compressor.

When the compressor's not spinning, I've gotten bearing noise for some time, but it hasn't changed much, and in 10,000 miles never got worse or gave me problems, and my a/c has always worked great. This morning I was fixing a leaking thermostat housing, and when I put it all back together and started it up, I was getting lots more noise out of my compressor. When I turned the a/c on, and the compressor was spinning, it went away for the most part.

I also noticed my compressor making a few other funny noises, that didn't sound like bearings. When the compressor was spinning, sometimes it would lock up for a second or two, then start spinning again. Never done this before. I also noticed metal shavings on the front of the compressor clutch, which I believe are from the clutch bearings.

Here's where I have some questions...

First, if the clutch bearings keep wearing and getting worse, is it likely to lock up and trash my belt? Also, are the clutch bearings worth replacing now that I'm starting to have concerns over my compressor's health?

If I do it myself, is there anything wrong with venting the R-134 to the atmosphere, or should I get the system recovered before disassembling? If I replace it, should I stick with a Delco compressor, or will an aftermarket compressor hold up well?

Thanks!

If compresser is making any other noise besides clutch bearing or clutch.
Replace the compresser.
I would run from rebuilt compressers.
Stay with brand new aftermarket or a new AC delco .
EPA says R-134a is ozone safe But.
R-134a is suposed to be and should recovered if at all possiable.
Ac repair shops are required to have recovery equipment.
No dumping allowed.
You will also need a vacuum pump and a set of AC gauges to recharge it.

http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=01&Category_Code=DIY

Thanks, MT...a couple more questions....

I understand the gauge set for recharge, but why the vacuum pump?

Also, I connected a gauge to the low side, trying to see why my compressor was locking up, and the pressure was high...over 50 PSI...what would cause this? Obviously if it was low, would point to obstruction in the system. But what would cause it to go high?

A vacuum pump is needed and used to remove moisture in system.

A restricted system or plugged system will cause the low side to go way low and the high side way high.

A low side high can be a weak compresseror or not running or to much R-134a in sytem or a weak expansion tube.
Or even a bad walmart one hose one cheap gage recharge kit not reading good.
But.
To be able to help on low side high we need the low and high side readings both at idle and at 2K rpm with compresser running.
Post back these readings.
For more help.

That actually sounds like the very common compressor clutch airgap issue. The metal shavings are from the clutch itself. If your A/C is working, you don't have to discharge the system at all. You can simply re-set the air-gap a little wider using the specialized tools available for rent at most Autozones and other parts stores. The telltale sign that this is your problem is that the noise goes away when the clutch is engaged. Save yourself a ton of money and adjust the clutch air-gap. Search the forums and you will find instructions.
Edit: I forgot to mention that the compressor clutch may not be engaged all of the time, it's not supposed to be.

That actually sounds like the very common compressor clutch airgap issue. The metal shavings are from the clutch itself. If your A/C is working, you don't have to discharge the system at all. You can simply re-set the air-gap a little wider using the specialized tools available for rent at most Autozones and other parts stores. The telltale sign that this is your problem is that the noise goes away when the clutch is engaged. Save yourself a ton of money and adjust the clutch air-gap. Search the forums and you will find instructions.
Edit: I forgot to mention that the compressor clutch may not be engaged all of the time, it's not supposed to be.

Good Call.
That end should be checked out first thing.

Can't seem to find much on the clutch air gap...can anyone give me a link?

Go for .020" air gap.
A little hard to get a feeler gauge in there is clutch plate is bured up.
Remove belt and feel bearing for play and being rough/dry and clutch for not draging or rubbing.
You will need puller and installer tool to change air gap.
A HD6/HR6-HE compressor gap is .020-.030"
A V5 compressor gap is .010-.015"