Car turns off after Start 99 saturn sc2

Either after start or after putting it on drive, the car shakes and then shuts off. Ive replaced the spark plugs and wires. Blue smoke comes out when this occurs. It doesnt matter if its cold or hot out, this has been happening more and more. Need some help please, anyone?

Does it take longer to start than normal?

Does it eventially start and stay running?

Have you tried to keep it running?

Does it take longer to start than normal?

Does it eventially start and stay running?

Have you tried to keep it running?


-Yea it does take longer but it finally turns on after pumping it with gas. It stays running after that also, but sometimes after i put it on drive, it does it again. I was told it was one of the pistons not working so then i put new spark plugs....still does it...thank you for any help

You need to check if fuel pressure is bleeding off. The smoke makes me wonder if an injector is leaking. Does it idle ruff after it has started? and is there a check engine light on?

You need to check if fuel pressure is bleeding off. The smoke makes me wonder if an injector is leaking. Does it idle ruff after it has started? and is there a check engine light on?



where would i check fuel pressure? it only shakes after i turn it on, but then i press the gas to not let it shut off.after that it runs fine. no check engine light

You need to check if fuel pressure is bleeding off. The smoke makes me wonder if an injector is leaking. Does it idle ruff after it has started? and is there a check engine light on?


ohh and yea it idles ruff after started

One you'll need a pressure gauge and two you'll need to interpret what the gauge tells you. It is unlikely that you will be able to do the test yourself. If you do it wrong or make the wrong choice you could end up doing some damage. The fuel lines are plastic and you'll need to block the pressure line to check and see what side of the system is leaking if it is leaking. This requires some ingenuity and special fuel adapters that come with professional kits that retail for over $350. With that being said it would be a lot cheaper to bring it in for a driveabilty diagnoses.

One you'll need a pressure gauge and two you'll need to interpret what the gauge tells you. It is unlikely that you will be able to do the test yourself. If you do it wrong or make the wrong choice you could end up doing some damage. The fuel lines are plastic and you'll need to block the pressure line to check and see what side of the system is leaking if it is leaking. This requires some ingenuity and special fuel adapters that come with professional kits that retail for over $350. With that being said it would be a lot cheaper to bring it in for a driveabilty diagnoses.

Could it also be the ECTS or the EGR valve??

Start off with the simple things first.

Replace your ECTS asap. A craked sensor will run the car rich, sometimes to rich for the engine to run.

How did the old spark plugs look? Dark and black im sure.

Clean your EGR valve and throttle body Especially the Idle Air Control Valve. This valve lets air into the engine during idle, and gets stuck due to carbon build up.

Post your results :)

Start off with the simple things first.

Replace your ECTS asap. A craked sensor will run the car rich, sometimes to rich for the engine to run.

How did the old spark plugs look? Dark and black im sure.

Clean your EGR valve and throttle body Especially the Idle Air Control Valve. This valve lets air into the engine during idle, and gets stuck due to carbon build up.

Post your results :)


I actually did this a month ago now and the car has been running great. Better gas milage too! I did all that except the idle air control valve.Is that near the throttle boddy?? thank you much by the way