Hi I’m out of ideas so thought Id see if anyone has run across this problem. I have a 1993 Town and Country 3.3L about 120k miles. It starts and runs like a new car, but after it runs for a while either idling or under throttle it sputters down and dies without warning. You can restart it right away runs perfect for a while then does the same thing. I replaced the fuel, fuel filter, fuel pump and strainer had no effect on the problem. Appreciate any insight you may have.

The powertrain control module (PCM) is the engine's brain. If it looses a signal from the camshaft or crankshaft (especially) sensor, it kills the engine by killing power to the fuel pump, coil, and O2 sensors. I would inspect their wiring and connections then replace both of them.

Thanks will do a check of the cam and crank sensors. Doesnt drop any fault code so didnt check them.

Man O man thanks allot that information really helped. Have 4 hours run time on the repair and runs like new. The mechanics and I were sure it was the strainer or fuel pump.

Here is what I learned looking for the problem:

Symptoms: Unexplained engine stall or sputter down and quit running for no apparent reason. What fooled me is this happened 3 months ago but the car sat for a while while I was out of town so added heat and against my better judgment assured myself it was contaminated fuel. Occasional it would misfire under load. Recharging the AC system last week walked away from car came back the engine was stopped.

Error codes: None

Camshaft sensor (CMS): I replaced the camshaft sensor ($37) on principle the real culprit was a corroded connector. The CMS has a 1950s style connector without rubber bushing to seal out moisture, placed right below the thermostat housing. About 3 years ago I had a thermostat gasket go bad antifreeze seeped into the connector housing. The connector plug had 2 contacts corroded. From what I saw I may just take a little RTV and seal it.

Removing the CMS required a 10mm socket with short extension right over the belt you almost have a straight shot at it. The plug appears to hang up but if slid back toward the cockpit there is a small space it slips right out.

Crankcase Sensor (CKS): I replaced the CKS ($38). Located in the rear of the bell housing at the engine block. Accessible form under the car driver’s side behind the front wheel. Also required a 10mm socket or wrench and was not visible from above engine. The connector plug was difficult to separate from under the car without pulling against the wiring harness as I could only get one hand in there. I found by removing the air intake from the throttle body allowed me to slide it out sideways get both hands on it from above to separate. The reason my CKS failed was it lost its air gap and was warn down.

Fuel Pump: Even though I replaced the fuel pump by mistake there is a noticeable increase in engine performance, runs so much better maybe 20% more power, quick takeoff, very smooth even idle. Rather than a okay, moderately tired engine performs like a new. With 120k miles on the van the strainer held fuel inside in pockets 15 minutes after removed so it wasn’t as clean as it could be.

Recommendation: If you have any unexplained engine stall, loss of power or van is getting up in the miles best to check both the CMS connector especially if you had a fluid leak at the thermostat housing in the last couple years. My CKS lost its adjustment and lost its air gap so it was being warn away. Compared to a tow and mechanics fees on the road replacing both looks like a good idea. Best of Luck! : popcorn:

Always good to hear a success story. Thanks for posting the fix.