Need help with buying the right airbrush!?

I´m thinking about buying my own airbrush and i´m not sure which one i should choose.

I´m working with a friends "Harder&Steenbeck Evolution" (http://www.hansa-airbrush.de/evolution_05.html) for some time now and it´s not that bad. Only thing is, i´m using 2K-paints and have to clean the airbrush with acetone. The Evolution has a rubber o-ring at its nozzle (and some more elsewhere) which has to be stripped of before cleaning. Nevertheless i have to clean those rings, too. Although i do not bathe them in acetone their lifespan is rather short.

I heard, there are airbrushes without any rubber parts, sealed by the metal parts themselves.

Today i took a look at a "Rich AB300" (http://www.zc77.de/cgi-bin/scgi?rid=2024&ebene=3&artikel=407248&sp=deu&bef=detail). As far as i know they are made by Iwata. I couldn´t find any rubber gaskets in there. Am i right? How about the cleaning process? Instructions say nozzle has only to be dismantled on rare occasions. When i scewed it off there was some red stuff on it. What is that?

Furthermore i´ve found Iwata´s "Eclipse HP-CS" (http://www.iwataairbrush.com/products/airbrush/eclipse/hpcs_info.jsp) or Iwata´s "Revolution CR" (http://www.iwataairbrush.com/products/airbrush/revolution/cr_info.jsp) which seems to be good, too.

Is anyone here experienced in working with one of those and especially cleaning them after using automotive paints?

Thanks!:smokin:

Hi Jules :D

I have both the HP-Cplus and the CR airbrushes and of the two, I would recommend the CR as the better all-round brush for 1/24.

The 0,35 nozzle on the C+ is just a little too small for airbrushing bodies comfortably whereas the 0,5 tip in the CR is good for bodies but still allows you get fine enough for detail work. I rarely use my C+ nowadays except for Alclad on small parts (also the trigger gets sticky on the C+).

With regards the other brushes, I have no experience so I can't help you.

On the cleaning front I have found both of them extremely easy to clean quickly and fully without needing to strip down. I fill the cup with with either cellulose thinners or Mr Muscle (depending on the paint used) brush around in side with a bristle brush and TIP OUT this mess.

I then give it 1-2 flushes again with the cleaning agent, remove and clean the needle and then flush through again with out the needle. After this I loosen the crown for storage and dry the needle seperately.

I have found that with this process I don't need to do a "strip clean" more frequently than every 3 months (in fact I don't NEED to do it that often - I just do as a matter of principle). Whatever the frequency, the Iwatas are very easy to keep clean IMHO and I have not yet had anything rubber or otherwise go bad on me.

HTH :)

S

I don't know anything about the airbrushes you posted but I would like to add one more to the list :iceslolan which I use for almost 2 years now, the Gabbert TripleX.

Biggest plus is that you can remove the complete "head" part which is perfect for cleaning. As you can see in the pic below the whole mechanincal part is seperate and won't see any paint. I use 2K paints and never had a problems with the o-rings. They have two options "leder" and "teflon" (I guess you understand that :p :iceslolan) and you should go for teflon they will be perfect for the paint we use...
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/3839343736326133.jpg

There is just one more thing to point out, it's not a dual action airbrush in the classical way which means that the airflow will increase with the paint when pulling the trigger... it needs some time to get used to but it's no big deal. For me it's the best airbrush I ever had.

EDIT: Here is the link to the manufacturer CLICK (http://www.gabbert-airbrushtechnik.de/spritzpistolen_triplex_de.html)

@Steven
Thanks a lot! That´s just the info i needed. I´ll only use the airbrush for painting car bodies, so no extremely fine work. I think Iwata Revolution CR is fine for me. :iceslolan

@Dennis
Thanks for your help, too. Even with picture, now that´s what i call service! :tongue:
Your Gabbert looks very similar to the Harder&Steenbeck, except for the completely removable front end (which will be indeed an advantage). I´m convinced that both are very fine tools, but both are using o-rings (beside their teflon parts) and that´s not what i´m searching for.

I´m lazy, especially when it comes to cleaning my airbrush. Steven´s way is just right for me. :smokin:

I have an HP-C, Eclipse-CS and a Revolution CR. The CS and CR are better for painting car bodies. If I have to choose I would pick the CR. The CR wasn't available when I bought the HP-C and Eclipse-CS. I bought it recently to spray clearcoats. It's works great and a very good price compare to the others.

Hi there I have recently bought a Triplex brush of a guy on another airbrush site, its the one you can eather use for syphon or graverty feed. I have tried it out for the first time today and even if you jently pull on the trigger to much paint comes out. I've tried changing the pressure but it make's no different what do I do. By the way I am a complete beginer and I am using acrilic paint. Mal :banghead:

In your opinion which is the best ozzle size to paint both bodies and small pieces?

I´ve bought the Revolution CR with a 0,5 mm needle some time ago and i think it´s just perfect for my hobby. :bigthumb:

Hi there I have recently bought a Triplex brush of a guy on another airbrush site, its the one you can eather use for syphon or graverty feed. I have tried it out for the first time today and even if you jently pull on the trigger to much paint comes out. I've tried changing the pressure but it make's no different what do I do. By the way I am a complete beginer and I am using acrilic paint. Mal :banghead:

I have all 3 nozzles but I mainly use the biggest 0,5mm. I don't know I can't complain about to much paint coming out... But from your description it sounds really strange if I gently pull the trigger, I only get a small amount of paint and can spray extreme fine details or "lines". Are you sure that everything is assembled properly and the mechanic works like it should?

Hi saint I am a compleate beginner and it is my first air brush, how can I check if it's fitted together properly
Mal

I would completely disassemble the airbrush, check all seals, clean everything and reassemble it according to the instructions...
From your description you should check the paint nozzle and look if it's bend or something and most important if the needle "seals" the nozzle or if the hole in the nozzle is already too big.

I'd throw the Badger 360 Universal in for good measure. Lovely airbrush and very versatile as the head rotates so it can be used either as gravity feed with the built in cup for fine work or suction feed with bottles - ingenius. Very easy to strip and clean too.

http://www.getpainted.com/files/360_20universal_badger.jpg

http://www.reuels.com/reuels/test/media/bd/bdPTS360.gif

Hi Jules :D
After this I loosen the crown for storage and dry the needle seperately.
S

I have noticed that if this part is left out, sometimes the needle will stick to the rest of the airbrush and will have to be disassembled again.

Only drawback from using an iwata for me is parts are harder to find, but they are sweet brushes. I would stick with an iwata or a badger. Just my opinion.

Ok I am looking for a airbrush. What is the best for the money, and what can I expect to pay???