Gluing under Stress

I often run into "stressed attachment points." In other words, the parts resist being glued, and want to spring apart unless they're held together with a clamp or strong adhesive.

My standard solution for parts like that is to apply thick CA and clamp them until the CA cures - usually a few hours.

But what about parts that can't be clamped? Sometimes they're too delicate, too hard to reach, or the surfaces aren't parallel - clamping causes them to slide apart, or the damn tweezer keeps sliding off.

And sometimes they're springy and the springiness resists a tight fit. Right now I'm trying to attach PE seatbelts to a racing seat. The PE is springy stainless steel and the seat is already in the car, so there's no way to clamp the belt tightly to the seat. I've bent the belt to fit, of course, but the only way to get it to "sit" properly is to glue it tightly to the seat. But how?

I've got all kinds of clamps, reverse-hold tweezers, forceps etc., but more clamps are not the solution. What I really need is a non-messy glue that will stay stuck when and where I stick it.

I've tried any number of glues for problems like this, but I would really like to find one glue that meets all these criteria:

1. Bonds quickly or on contact, either while I'm holding the joint with my fingers or a tweezers, or when I press two coated items together. Thick CA dries slowly; sometimes it takes hours. Thin CA bonds instantly, but it runs all over everything, so it's hard to apply to a joint that isn't horizontal. Even if the surfaces are horizontal, one false move and a shiny sheet of glue coats everything. And the contact cement I've tried is messy as hell. The only exception is Microscale Metal Foil Adhesive - see below.

2. Isn't messy. White glue isn't messy, but it takes a long time to dry. Most contact cements - like Barge Cement - are a disaster. One slip, and there are strings of goo all over the model. An exception is Microscale Metal Foil Adhesive. It's a contact cement that's easy to handle, but it isn't strong enough for stressed joints. As for thin CA, like I said, runs all over the place and leaves an ugly shiny trail.

3. A strong joint. The Microscale Metal Foil stuff is great for small unstressed parts. But for a stressed fit, like those seatbelts, it doesn't work. I'd like to find something as strong as epoxy, but I'd be very happy with something as strong as thick CA. If only it would bond while I hold the joint closed! (Every try holding a tiny, precised joint closed while applying accelerator to it? Easier said than done.)

4. A matte finish. Most small parts are in interiors or chassis, where most everything has a flat finish. Most glues leave shiny spots wherever they're applied, OTOH, it's easy to apply a bit of clear gloss to give a spot a high gloss finish. So a flat finish glue would be best.

5. Water soluble. I know; now I'm really dreaming. But it would be nice if misplaced glue spots could be easily removed with water.

BTW, I have read Jay!'s sticky on glues. There's nothing mentioned there that meets these criteria.

I can't be the only modeler who has this problem. Is there anything out there that might solve it? Is there any glue that fits this description?

Or is there another solution entirely?

Thanks!

Ddms

Hey, I too have come upon this issue a time or two. To get me by what I did was to find out EXACTLY where the part will be when it's laid in place permanently. Apply medium or thick CA sparingly, or create a very small "BEAD" of CA to the part (in this case, the back of your seat belt), then apply a thin line of accelerator to that spot/area where the part will be, or, if the surface has been tested that the accelerator doesn't mar the finish, cover a larger area with the accelerator. If the accelerator dries, it's OK, because the chemical is still on the surface of the part, just the carrier is evaporated. Now just place the part where you need it, and it should only take a few seconds for the CA to "KICK" and you can let go.

I hope it works for you like it has for me in the past.

Apply medium or thick CA sparingly, or create a very small "BEAD" of CA to the part (in this case, the back of your seat belt), then apply a thin line of accelerator to that spot/area where the part will be, or, if the surface has been tested that the accelerator doesn't mar the finish, cover a larger area with the accelerator.
It's funny, but awhile ago I thought of that and tried it on that seatbelt. But first I tried to put the CA down, hold the parts, then apply the accelerator, and that wasn't working out. I had trouble getting the accelerator under the belt, and it wouldn't adhere. The same thing happened when I did what you said: it didn't stick. But by that time the area was a mess. I've also tried Microscale Foil glue for this job, and some might still be there, so it could be screwing up the adhesion.

It's interesting that the accelerator still works when it's dry. That's great, because it takes the pressure off.

I'd given up, but now I'm gonna start "fresh" by cleaning up the back of the seatbelt (it may be gummed up with dried glue) and try your technique. It OUGHT to work, so it's sure worth a try.

Many thanks!

Ddms

It definitely works FASTER when wet, but it works pretty quick when dry. You might have old glue, that will also cause it to not dry quickly or adhere very well.

epoxy...?
you can clean up with rubbing alcohol until it is completely set.
lets see, you really have to be careful with accelerator on finished parts. you should be able to find some thicker 'thin', or thinner 'thick' ca to suit your style.