1994 Jetta III stuttering/bumping 35+ MPH


INGUES
08-01-2008, 09:01 PM
Hello,

This is my first time posting on this website and Iím hoping that someone will be able to help me. I have a 1994 Jetta III Automatic that is having some stuttering and bumping problems when I go over 35 mph. I can accelerate to and over 35 just fine until I let off the gas. Once I let off the gas and hit the gas again (cruising speed 35 mph +) it starts to stutter and make you bounce all over the place. It seems to do this more often when the engine is running hot even though the engine never gets over 200 (new thermostat installed last year). It also seems to do it when you're slightly hitting the gas. If you floor it then it accelerates smoothly without any issues.


Iíve tried several different things to fix this problem, the first was putting an automatic transmission treatment into the existing fluid which did not fix the problem. The second was replacing the MAF sensor (EXPENSIVE!) hoping that it was some kind of air intake related issue, still nothing.

Iím really not sure what else to do, Iíve already spent so much money on this car that I would like to fix this issue and get a couple more years out of it.

Does anyone have any idea what could be going on?

Thanks,
David

veedubmechanic
08-03-2008, 10:59 AM
Under the intake manifold above the oil filter there is a plastic pipe that does from the engine and snakes up to the passenger side of the intake to the valve cover, check and see if the plastic pipe is broken.
Also mist water on the coilpack, its the square thing that has one spark plug wire going to it from the distributor, if the car chugs and dies than replace it.

INGUES
08-03-2008, 12:59 PM
Under the intake manifold above the oil filter there is a plastic pipe that does from the engine and snakes up to the passenger side of the intake to the valve cover, check and see if the plastic pipe is broken.
Also mist water on the coilpack, its the square thing that has one spark plug wire going to it from the distributor, if the car chugs and dies than replace it.

Thank you very much for your suggestion. I'll give it a look and let you know what I find.

Thanks,
David

INGUES
08-03-2008, 07:16 PM
I believe I found the hose but it does not look damaged to me. When you say damaged do you mean cracked or having a hole in it? If I wanted to buy this hose what would I ask for (what's it called)?

I did locate the coil box and I don't know how to tell if it's damaged or not. How would the coil box relate to this issue?

Thanks again for the help, I really appreciate it.

EDIT: I found the hose name. It's called the breather hose, correct? It's fairly cheap so I'm going to try replacing it.

veedubmechanic
08-06-2008, 10:01 PM
yes the breather hose is a common issue on the 2.0L, it brakes or cracks and causes those issues. The coilpack, just mist water on it when the car is running, if its cracked the water will get in and arc and the car will most likely die. Coils are about 85.00 I believe and you can get them at napa, oreilly ect.

INGUES
08-08-2008, 01:31 AM
yes the breather hose is a common issue on the 2.0L, it brakes or cracks and causes those issues. The coilpack, just mist water on it when the car is running, if its cracked the water will get in and arc and the car will most likely die. Coils are about 85.00 I believe and you can get them at napa, oreilly ect.

Just a few quick questions. The breather hose is attached to the engine with this metal clip that slides in from the top and this oversized rubber ring that goes inside. How does all of that go together, it's really difficult to put back in place.

I think I put it back in but the issue has gotten worse when I drive so I'm guessing that's what I need to replace to fix the overall problem. I just don't think I put it back in correctly and I'm afraid to put the new one on and screw it up even more.

Also, the opposite side of the breather hose is attached with this metal ring that I've never seen before. Anyone know what the name of that is? It appears to be pretty permanent and I have no idea what tool to use to remove/add it. It has 3 little spikes that fall into place and lock in with itself. I'd like to replace that completely but I don't even know what to ask for.

veedubmechanic
08-10-2008, 09:49 PM
the plastic pipe, just put the o-ring on the pipe and then some vaseline and push it in the hole, while pusing down put the metal clamp in the slots to hold it in.

The other metal silver clamp, its the VW one time use crimp clamp, just cut it off with a side cutter and use a regular screw type clamp with the new pipe.

INGUES
08-11-2008, 06:21 PM
the plastic pipe, just put the o-ring on the pipe and then some vaseline and push it in the hole, while pusing down put the metal clamp in the slots to hold it in.

The other metal silver clamp, its the VW one time use crimp clamp, just cut it off with a side cutter and use a regular screw type clamp with the new pipe.

Thank you very much for the instructions.

I just want to give anyone who's reading this an update. The breather hose unfortunately did not fix the issue, I still have the stuttering problem.

Another issue came up today which actually kept me from going to work, my car would not start this morning. I turn the key and the starter kicks on but the engine does not stay on. The engine stutters and then shuts off. I had my fuel pump checked recently and I was told it was in good condition so I'm not sure what else it could be (maybe it was misdiagnosed?). I was eventually able to get my car to start later today and it's now running the way it was before (with the stuttering).

I think it might be time to retire this car. Does anyone have anymore advice, not just for the car not wanting to stay on but for the initial stuttering issue?

Thanks,
David

veedubmechanic
08-12-2008, 09:31 PM
have you replaced the timing belt in the past 80k miles?

You need to have the ecm checked to see if there are any codes in it. You could have lots of things wrong.

INGUES
08-12-2008, 11:05 PM
have you replaced the timing belt in the past 80k miles?

You need to have the ecm checked to see if there are any codes in it. You could have lots of things wrong.
Yes, I actually had the timing belt replaced less than two years ago. The engine seal had broken and was leaking oil so my mechanic had to take the entire engine out to replace it. I figured that while he had already removed the engine he might as well replace the belt too.

I took my car to a couple local places to have the ECM checked but it looks like the computer on my car is too old and most places don't have the reader anymore. Are there any readers that I can buy for myself that can still read this car? I have the mechanics manual so I would be able to identify what each code meant.

Thanks,
David

Edit: Are there any readers that will let me check both types, the old computer codes and the newer ones (post 1996)?

veedubmechanic
08-13-2008, 10:06 PM
www.ross-tech.com

Its basically a vw scan tool that you use with a laptop and the connector cables. there is a special pre-95 connectors for vw's. theres a grey and white 2 prong connectors.

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