The new Hasegawa 250TR

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_box.jpg

I am building this kit strictly OOB although the original Hassegawa photo etch wire wheels will be allowed since they do come in a box with the company logo on it :D

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_rims.jpg


The first thing I did was, in retrospect, a mistake . At the time I hadn't made my decision for an OOB build and I removed the molded in mesh on the hood vent.
Now I am stuck with it but I am sure there is an original 250TR out there somewhere with an open vent just like this :)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_01.jpg


Next thing I did was to tackle some of the body parts that need to be joined together. Hasegawa are really generous with this kit and they allow for a variety of versions with different scoop and hinge configurations.

However, one of the non-negotiable intakes is this one but they have still molded it as two pieces. This solution leaves an awful join line that needs to be puttied away (I don't know why they did it this way because I am pretty sure that modern injection molding technology would have permitted this to be made as one piece)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_02.jpg



Another left-curve they throw at you is the join line between upper body part and the inside panel of the pontoon fender. This again leaves quite a substantial join line which could in fact be confused for a panel line. I have noticed that some modelers have in fact left this join line but my photo research shows that this is never present on the original cars.

It turned out to be a bit of a bear to fill. After several rounds of putty, sanding and primer, I was still getting a ghost line. On top of that, the putty tends to fill panel lines that should stay so they need to be carefully re-scribed. The photo below is from during that process and you can see that the line is still there. I finally got that sucker filled though...I hope.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_05.jpg




The only part of the molding that I would criticize so far is the panel line around the gas filler tank. On my kit the line was so soft and shallow I was seriously worried that after paint it would barely be visible. For this reason I filled it in and re-scribed a new one.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_03.jpg



Finally I added the airs scoops below the doors and re-primed. I think this part is finished now and just needs some minor tidying up.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_09.jpg


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_04.jpg



Because I am like a child, I couldn't wait to assemble the Hasegawa P/E wheel set for this kit... so I assembled it :)
Beautiful wheels and well worth the money (although TBH I don't think that the original kit wheels look too bad either)


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_07.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_06.jpg



Finally I have started painting and dry-brushing the chassis and suspension parts to prepare for a ride height/track test fit.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_11.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_12.jpg



I pre-shaded the seats before painting with Vallejo Fire Red over white primer. I am very happy with the subtle effect (although TBH I think I gave the seats one too many coats of paint and slightly killed the effect)

In the spirit of "nothing that wasn't in the box" I stretched some of the white sprue and added piping to the seats

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_14.jpg


Looks pretty good...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_15.jpg


...but a couple of glitches.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_16.jpg


The seats will now get a coat of Vallejo Satin clear to finish them off



I also stretched up a whole bunch of black sprue for plug wire

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_17.jpg



I made the plug wire tidys by making some thicker, tapered stretched sprue and then hollowing out the ends with progressively larger drill bits in the pin vice.


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_18.jpg



Next thing will be to wire the distributors.


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_19.jpg


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_20.jpg



This is how she is starting to look

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_21.jpg


Thanks for looking.

Always a joy to watch you build. Lovely work on a lovely car.

But I think you're stretching the definition of "out of the box".

Checked your PMs lately...?

Awesome start, Klutzie. Why impose the strict OOB limitation on yourself though?

I'm assuming that the pun was intended, Andy? :D :lol2:

Checked your PMs lately...?
Sh*t! AF is for crap lately!
I can hardly ever log on, I am not getting update notifications and to top it all, not only am I not getting email notifications about PMs but on the home page it's not even showing me that I have unread messages?!?!? :banghead: Thanks for the heads up :thumbsup:

Now, which moderator should I bitch about this to.....? :iceslolan


Alex, depends on how you define OOB? ;)
My definition is "nothing that the manufacturer didn't include in the box". Now just wait and see LOL
More seriously, I don't want to spend any more money on this kit and I just want to see what I can do without after market parts. Just a different way of having fun with my models and I'll enjoy it just as much I think

Distributors have been sprued wired


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_22.jpg


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_23.jpg

Hey Klutz, obviously we are on the same project as we speak.

Your seats look great. I subject that you just painted them (if so, what did you use?). Any thoughts on the paint - will it be a red one?

I was very disappointed on the paint guide. You chose right to paint the exhaust parts on the engine the same color as the actual exhaust is painted. I did them in silver and need to figure out a way to match the color differences later.

I´m looking forward on your progress and I admire your "sprue"-skills including the wiring technique. I should pick these up someday.

How are your overall thoughts on this kit?

Robert

Robert, I have nothing but praise for the kit so far (apart from that infamous joint line ;) )

The seats were primed in white primer, I pre-shaded the creases with Vallejo Air Black and then painted with Vallejo Air Fire Red (IIRC). They will be getting a final cover of Vallejo Air Satin clear.

The white piping on the seats is stretched sprue fixed with dots of thin CA.

Hope that answers your question?

Looking good for a so called OOB build! :thumbsup:
Let's see the rest of it now! :D

Holy moly what a beautiful car. I see you're up to your usual tricks again. Those seats are excellent, I'll never figure out how you put that sprue on so cleanly. Engine is fantastic, but usual for the gems the Klutz shack pumps out. Great start and already a great wip.

Klutz_100;

What method did you use to get such even stretching with the spruce?

Thanks,

Stephen

What method did you use to get such even stretching with the spruce?

Stephen, you should really ask Les (Quadzero) who posted just above you - HE"S the sprue king here on AF :)

TBH I am a terrible sprue stretcher - the technique has always eluded me however this time I got lucky (maybe Hasegawa plastic is more stretcher friendly?)

I just heated it over a tea warmer candle and pulled. On the occasions I managed to get a nice long 100cm piece of stretch, the thickness issue had kind of taken care of itself LOL

One thing I did notice was that it was best NOT to pull immediately after from removing form the heat source but to wait one short second and then begin a moderate and constant pull

Not surprisingly there is some minor variation in thickness between the ends and the middle of the stretch but we are talking 0.1mm over 50cms (I checked it with calipers) so in fact it is for all practical purposes unnoticeable.

HTH

Here is an excellent way to do it, borrowed from a great modeller here on the forum, who explains it well;

I hold the sprue over a candle probably... 4-6 inches above the flame, and roll it between my fingers so that the flame heats the plastic evenly around the entire sprue. When the plastic starts to swell right above the flame, I get ready and at the instant that it begins to droop, I take it away from the flame while stretching it. I typically am stretching sprue just to use it to fill holes in the bumper of a kit or something, so I don't bother over uniform thickness and it's a very easy and quick process. To get the uniform thickness like was used above takes some practice; but basically you just don't pull as hard and the tricky part is keeping it straight while you do so.

Just practice a lot, lord knows if you're like me you've got more sprue than you could melt and stretch for the rest of your life.
Now, just to keep the glue nice and tidy on those seats and I'll really be on to something.:naughty:

Hi Steve,

nice job so far.
Seats look great with the white sprue, for engine-wiring I prefer wire

Thanks for the tips. Sound much more sound than my butane lighter technique :p. I'll give the tea light candle some practice.

for engine-wiring I prefer wire
So do I but it's not allowed this time. "Nothing that wasn't in the box" are the self-imposed rules for this one ;) :D

Hey Steve, awesome start. You did a lovely job on the seats !!!

R :)

Thanks Robi :thumbsup:

It's Howdy-doody time again ;)


Firstly some more sprue gymnastics :)
Added a fuel rail to the carbs and, for my piece de resistance - braided wire LOL

I took a piece of stretched sprue and ran a ribbed pin vice over it. After painting and washing it gives a reasonable representation (from 100 meters away) of the braided fuel lines on the 1/1

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_24.jpg


Suspension and engine fitted in place. It's worth mentioning here that all the pieces fitted together like a well made, laser cut jigsaw. Impressive stuff Mr. Hasegawa! :thumbup:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_25.jpg




DISASTER! (and a look out for anyone building this kit)

I wanted to test fit the body/tub and chassis. To do this you need to apply substantial spreading to the body to get it over the tub and the stress was just too much for the wimpy joins on the fender panels.

Kapow! it snapped off and wasted hours of putty work to remove the join line "(

Fixable but the major headache now is to figure out a way to safely assemble after painting. If this happens after painting I'll be seriously pissed!
It seems I am not the only one to suffer this which means the first black mark for an otherwise very impressive kit.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_26.jpg



Some more "it was in the box" detailing - this time on the battery.

I used stretched sprue to make the battery cables. The ends were flattened with pliers to create the impression of fasteners which were then dipped in silver paint.

The battery ties was made by shaping and cutting a staple used in the packaging.

I suppose if I was being very obsessive about this, I could use some slices of thin sprue to make some nuts and bolts (luckily I was feeling lazy at the time and not obsessive LOL)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_33.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_34.jpg



A shot of the engine in place.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_35.jpg



And a shot with the carb assembly in place together with the sprue-born fuel rail and braided lines.

The velocity stacks are the kit parts still with the kit chrome. I just drilled out the centres, sprayed them with some Vallejo Satin to tone them down a little (originals are aluminium NOT chrome) and gave them a wash with artist oils.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_36.jpg


A close up of the braided hose. Please allow for the fact that this is magnified to the nth degree and looks better in reality.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_37.jpg


I am still working on ideas on how to put this kit together without having it break up on me again :)

Cheers!

Looking good!
The idea for that braided hose is excellent, I might copy it, if you agree! :D

For the body, try using some plastic cement and reinforce it with a sheet of styrene (on the inside, and on both sides of the car ofcourse), it might be strong enough afterward as the whole assembly will flex without having a weak point.

Gee, fender snapped from the body again?
so this is really a weak link to this otherwise wonderful kit!

yes, like what jano11 said...stick a thin piece of long styrene (run along the cementing line of the body & fender right up to the door) with CA glue & let dry. this styrene piece must be thin enough so as not to abstruct the already tight tolerance between the body & chassis, but strong enough to hold the 2 parts in place after CA gluing.
to maximise the strength of this weak link even further...i suggest using CA glue as the filler in favor of the putty. CA glue acts as a good filler agent, only a small putty smoothing is required after that.

try it & see if this works, for my mad mods this works well for me.

cheers!

Gee, fender snapped from the body again?
so this is really a weak link to this otherwise wonderful kit!

yes, like what jano11 said...stick a thin piece of long styrene (run along the cementing line of the body & fender right up to the door) with CA glue & let dry. this styrene piece must be thin enough so as not to abstruct the already tight tolerance between the body & chassis, but strong enough to hold the 2 parts in place after CA gluing.
to maximise the strength of this weak link even further...i suggest using CA glue as the filler in favor of the putty. CA glue acts as a good filler agent, only a small putty smoothing is required after that.

try it & see if this works, for my mad mods this works well for me.

cheers!

I used C/A glue to attach the fenders and to fill the gap and the body cracked a bit on final assembly on one side (covered by Scuderia shield). I would suggest using liquid styrene cement so the parts are literally welded together.

The inner door on the body is visible inside the body, so if you back up the joint w/plastic strips it will be visible and look incorrect. The vertical line below the door is an area that is not visible; that's where one should put reinforcement as it's the primary area where the body is stretched. For the inner door area a piece of the thinnest plastic card over the whole area might be the way to go. Rescribe panel lines as necessary once it's dry. Then do the test-fitting over the chassis before painting. All the stretching is at the back of the chassis from the bulkhead fillers and the rear wheel housings. Everything in front of the bulkhead extension just slips in w/o any problem.

Gee, fender snapped from the body again?
so this is really a weak link to this otherwise wonderful kit!

yes, like what jano11 said...stick a thin piece of long styrene (run along the cementing line of the body & fender right up to the door) with CA glue & let dry. this styrene piece must be thin enough so as not to abstruct the already tight tolerance between the body & chassis, but strong enough to hold the 2 parts in place after CA gluing.
to maximise the strength of this weak link even further...i suggest using CA glue as the filler in favor of the putty. CA glue acts as a good filler agent, only a small putty smoothing is required after that.

try it & see if this works, for my mad mods this works well for me.

cheers!

using CA glue instead of putty it's OK, but for the main job I would still use plastic cement, the stuff that welds the two pieces together. It's way stronger than what CA can give.

Well i guess jano & zoomzoom's method will be better than mine...
i don't own this kit & i concluded my thoery based on a general judgement.

whatever it is, i hope you 250TR builders can get a way around this problem!

cheers!

Wow man - you are r e a l l y stretching (no pun intended) the term "out of the box" especially with the use of the box staples ;) But I like it!

Great job so far, liked the "was in the box" theory!

Fantastic work so far Steven.:smile:

Your "out of box" detail work is amazing.:smile: :grinyes:

Can't beat that braided line trick, how do you come up with stuff like this?

Lol, brilliant work. Love the battery staple :)

Can't beat that braided line trick, how do you come up with stuff like this?

My thoughts exactly :rofl:

Steve, you are my hero :D

Thanks guys :)

The paint job.

I promised myself that this would NOT be in red and I found this livery that I felt would be a good compromise (after all, I suppose a car that's called the Testa Rossa should have a bit of red on it).

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/livery_01.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/livery_02.jpg



I thought I would share how I went about masking as it might be useful to someone in the future.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_41.jpg

1. I measured the kit and made some rough plans
2. I transfered these plans in 1/1 to graph paper using a quite dark but thin pen
3. I used a French stencil to dram the curves (I marked the section used on the stencil to make sure I used the same section on the second side)
4. I put a piece of tracing paper on the graph paper and fixed it in place with a strip of 40mm Tamiya masking tape. The lines on the plans will be visible through this and then you can just use a fresh scalpel blade to cut along the lines.


Here you can see what was left AFTER I had removed the mask I was using. I drew (and numbered) the guide lines all the way across the mask while it was still in one piece. These helped me in accurately placing the masks and that I had the curves matched up.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_42.jpg


This is the final result. Just base colors paints at this point and needs to be cleared.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_38.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_39.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_40.jpg


I am pretty pleased although there is a tiny bit of bleed in one place and the line on the trunk is a little wonky in one place where I obviously over-stretched the tape while putting it in place.

Thanks for looking :thumbup:

Uuuuuuuuuuuoooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah !!!!

Fantastic painting, brilliant ideas for the rest. You're a new/further/additional inspiration source, thank Sir :grinyes:

Robi

The paint work is incredible, nice work as always!!!

That paint scheme looks excellent! :thumbsup: However not as good as red! :p

This is an extremely enjoyable-to-watch build!! I love it! :sunglasse

I love that paint scheme!

Crickey! Beautiful.

Clear coat is on. Mr Hobby Top Coat.

2 mist coats, sanded back with 3600 grit and then coverd with 2 medium wet coats.
The slight texture was then polished out with micromesh system (3600 through 12000).
This will now get a waxing to finish it off.

This is the first time I have used micromesh system without giving up half way through. TBH I had always thought it was pretty useless but I have to say that, after this experience, I have changed my mind 180 degrees on that one!

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_43.jpg



I got lazy with the windscreen :(

TBH I had been intending to make a new one using the acetate window in the packaging but I just couldn't get a satisfactory result that looked better than the kit part so......

Masked of with water color artists' liquid making (same stuff I used on the Graveyard dio) and sprayed with Tamiya flat Aluminium. Will be finished off with a wash of artists' oils to bring out the rivet details.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_44.jpg



I love this shot :)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_45.jpg




I have painted up the leather tie downs for the hood and trunk even though they are rather out of scale. I have an idea for some replacements but before I go down that route, I'll see how these look in place - maybe they won't be so bad :)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_46.jpg



This is the gear shifter.

I made up a new one by chucking a piece of sprue in my Dremel and turning it using my hobby knife and some sanding sticks.
For the finish, I scraped of some of the kit chrome from scrap sprue, mixed it with thin cement and sprayed it through my airbrush at high pressure.

What do you think?


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_47.jpg

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just kidding about the gear shift - of course it's the kit part dressed in alclad polished aluminium :rofl:



Thanks for looking in :thumbsup:

stunning work as always Klutz

Interesting paint scheme - very well executed. About our "favorite" body line. It seems to be visible a little on the side shosts. Will you keep it at last?
Envy from my side since you are a lot faster once again bringing your project to the finishing line.
Well done so far.

Robert

Dunno about you guys, but I am really astounded by what Hasegawa included in the box!! :lol:


1/1 dashboard

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_52.jpg


The ignition switch and the two toggle switches are represented in the kit by three little "pips" and a decal.
However they included an alternate version in the box also - sprue!! :rofl:


I drilled out the "pips" ...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_48.jpg


and used sprue to make the key switch and toggles (toggles aren't finished yet and are just dry fitted)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_49.jpg



"What?!" I hear you say. "A key switch with no key?!?!?"

OK so now there's a sprue key (flattened with pliers)


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_50.jpg



"What?!" I hear you say. "A key with no keyring?!?!?"

OK so now there's a sprue keyring (with a microdot sized prancing pony). Key chain will be made with a hair width stretch of sprue


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR_51.jpg


Will this ever end?!!?!? :banghead:


P.S. yes Robert, those bloody joins got the better of me in the end :rofl: Looked good under grey primer to my old eyes but the silver paint just brought them right back to life. Not to worry, I'll use Bob's approach and slap a decal over them ;)

Why is that there are more parts in your box than in mine?! I'll sure have to complain to Hasegawa! :D

Great work, as usual! :thumbsup:

Stop this guy! Or next time he would offer us a whole scratchbuilt stretched sprue's Aston!
Great job, as usual. So the desktop is clean now uh? Ready?

Stop this guy! Or next time he would offer us a whole scratchbuilt stretched sprue's Aston!
Great job, as usual.

Just my thoughts - YOU ARE THE SPRUE-MASTER, Steve :iceslolan

Great idea (nice, that it is NOT red), great execution !!

Looking forward to see the driver made of sprue :smokin:

This is the sprue-heaven !!! Fantastic execution, Steve. The gear shift looks like aluminium and the shine you got on the bodywork is ...real!

Robi :)

I made up a new one by chucking a piece of sprue in my Dremel and turning it using my hobby knife and some sanding sticks.
For the finish, I scraped of some of the kit chrome from scrap sprue, mixed it with thin cement and sprayed it through my airbrush at high pressure.

What do you think?


http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i213/Lambo63/smilies/lol2.gif

Great build so far! Terrific ideas.

Great! Finally a Testa-Rossa full-detail kit that´s not built as a curbside! (Sorry, Robert! Just couldn´t resist! :tongue: )

So YOU are trying an OOB-build? :rofl:
I will be very surprised what else Hasegawa included in your TR box as well.

Very nice colour scheme and great masking. There´s always a helpfull "how-to" in your WIPs...


Kapow!
Is that the Polish word for "kaputt"? :icon16:

So YOU are trying an OOB-build? :rofl:
I will be very surprised what else Hasegawa included in your TR box as well.


Well here's your answer, Julian :D

This build started as a straight "Out of the Box" project but then became an "If it's in the Box" build.

However, it has now ended up as an....

"On the Box" build LOL


I had been planning this diorama from the outset once I had the "in the box" concept in my head.

The idea is to use the cardboard from the box to make the diorama and it's supposed to be a 1950s cobbled street outside the Ferrari factory in Maranello (I don't know if there ever was one but who cares! ROFL). The base is a 19cm square of foam board


I did some Google research and found this recipe for a cobble pattern

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/sett02gggg.jpg


I made a template and penciled the fans onto the foam board and added a step which will be the sidewalk.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_03.jpg


I then spent several hours cutting up the Hasegawa box into 5mm squares for the cobble stones, curb stones and paving slabs.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_04.jpg



The cobbles were then glued into place...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_05.jpg



About 8 hours worth of eyeball killing work later it was finished. Everything you can see is the kit box cut up.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_08.jpg


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_09.jpg



And this is more or less how it will look with the TR on it.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_10.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_11.jpg


The whole thing will get a coat of grey primer once the PVA has fully dried and then I will try to paint it up.

Thanks for looking in :)

Very impressive build that has provided me with some great ideas. I'm looking forward to the next installment.

I have this kit and so far no problems, but I haven't spread the body over the tub yet. Just completed the paint job and have too much time invested to have one of the sides coming off.

Jim

Oh my god, get out of here! Now! You do such great work man. I'd say you got your money's worth out of the kit with the spruce and all.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_11.jpg


The whole thing will get a coat of grey primer once the PVA has fully dried and then I will try to paint it up.

Thanks for looking in :)

Well, the primer will give it a coarser, stone like, appearance. But what on Earth do you want to paint on it?!

I becoming worry. Never heard a good doctor Steve? LOL

-1st: the result: really great, with a bit of weathering..
-2st: the obsessive idea: I'm in awe buddy, but more I'm envious by your will power!

:eek2:

OOB? Sick! :D

Dude, You're insane! Crazy cool. I love it! Most builders can't get that good results with aftermarket parts, You put them all to shame with an OOB kit! I salute You! =)

Thanks guys! Glad you like it.

But what on Earth do you want to paint on it?!
Well, I thought "cobblestone color" might be a good idea as opposed to raw cardboard ;)
The primer is there to give it a barrier to protect it from the water-based acrylics I'll probably be using. I don't really have a painting plan, I guess it just be splashing washes all over the place and then pick out a few individual stones etc.

Fantastic. Well, you know what I think.

As for painting, I'd go for artist's oils (not like I haven't thought about this one). Give it a good coating of grey primer, and spray it with whatever grey base color you want. Then mix a dark grey wash, and apply in the gaps. You can probably apply it heavily over everything. Then mix up light grey, and dry brush it over the stones. You can very your drybrushing colour (add brown/tan) for some nice effects. This makes fr a very flexible way of doing it. It gives you alot of control, and is fun to apply also.

Add some dirt/stains- drops of oil, old chewing gum, spilled gelato, dog mess, etc, and it will look just like an Italian village!

I'm not sure about the painting.

I've made many a site/building model using grey card of various sorts. The best thing about grey card is that when you photo it, the imperfections in the material make it a very close match for bare concrete.
The moment you slap anything on it, it tends to get a bit too "shiney".
The most i'd go is to apply some very thin washes to add some depth.

Trying to paint a stone finish is very tough, especially if you're trying to od it to scale.
Of course, not painting it would leave you with a base that doesn't look as good in life as it does in photos.

Incidentally, I've recently found a place that sells 1:24 bricks.
How cool is that?

Great! Finally a Testa-Rossa full-detail kit that´s not built as a curbside! (Sorry, Robert! Just couldn´t resist! :tongue: )

Yeah, give it to me - fulltime. But I kind of regret of bulding the same project again as Klutzi - happened before with the M1 Map of France. Makes me sick to see, what you can do with a kit having these mad skills and the will power of enduring 8 hours of "street labor".
I love your diorama idea and we need to figure out a way to transport all the time you are having over to me...We are neighbours, right??

I suppose I should clarify that the dog mess and such should be simulated....

I suppose I should clarify that the dog mess and such should be simulated....
Darn! Benson (my Labrador) was in doggy heaven at the chance to have an internet presence. I think he even wanted his own avatar.... :evillol: :lol2:

Robert. I have it easy. I let you lead the way and then just coast in your slipstream. You are the one who takes the jobs on first :thumbsup:
(so, whatta you (we) building next?? :D )

Add some dirt/stains- drops of oil, old chewing gum, spilled gelato, dog mess, etc, and it will look just like an Italian village!

:lol:

Where's Gio?! He should be defending his lovely villages ! :lol:

Andy, rather than dog turds in the gutter, I thought I'd give the dog a lamp post to pee on :D (I've had recent experience at simulating pee in another diorama in my sig) :evillol:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_14.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_15.jpg


I've been mating this evening - body to chassis.
I think I found the secret to safely joining the 2 parts without drama - yay!


Beginnings of painting the base

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_12.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_13.jpg

:eek: Looking terrific!

(looking terrific, I agree)

Mmmmm Andy push me to talk about the two italian sides (and souls), but I guess there's not a honour to defend after Napoli's facts, what happen here in North is the opposite and you'll kicked in the ass for all the town (and hard sanctioned) if Benson do mess :D, so polish those paved at least with 6000 grit!

Fantastic job so far!

Wow, this is going to look beautiful and very classy when finished.

Light is 90% finished.

I took a friends's excellent advice and made the lamp a "hoop top" variety
The shade is a circle cut out of the carboard box and the lamp is a piece of polished clear sprue. Not bad for 3 hours work IMHO.

I have also finished weathering the cobble stones. I added some street litter out of crunched up instruction sheet LOL

Hope you like it.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_16.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_17.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_18.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_19.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_20.jpg

Looks great mate (even if I still disagree with your self-imposed limitation).

Here's something that I hope (because of the dehydrator, of course :D) will not let you sleep at night: you could stretch a lot of sprue, make it really really thin and weave the mesh for the bulge in the engine cover!:evillol:

you could stretch a lot of sprue, make it really really thin and weave the mesh for the bulge in the engine cover!:evillol:
I shall refrain from telling you what you can do :D

Steve the result= awesome. I seen a different approach at the diorama/weathered theme: any brick painted in different colors (shade of browns, grey, bourgogne, cyan/lue) than drybrused several time (gray/brown) to uniform shades, than washed and finally drybrushed with light colors, like earth pink or lihjt grey. Anyway terrific: I want to copy for my 166!!! Or better you may invent something other and me and Alex copy to achieve 3 similar bases :D

Anyway: why not >>>>?

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/gionc/varie/TR-DIO_16light.jpg

just a light coat of black outside the mask (cotton soft mask? paper mask kept far from the base?) to allos a soft shade, and may be some dry touch of light under the lamp... just a thought..

PS despite petrol cost, mine is the only free energy!!! :D I want my Nobel Prize!!! :D

I want dog! If no dog...no good :D....or donkey :D:D

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/DIORAMAS/TR250%20Diorama/TR-DIO_20.jpg

Wasn't there any bit of paper with smaller lettering in that instruction sheet? :p

Seriously, excellent job! I'll might ask you to do the same when I'll build my TR.

Now, let's see if you can also light up that shiny thing, OOB, nothing else is allowed! :D

Outstanding. Hat off :)

Robi

I shall refrain from telling you what you can do :D

You don't have to refrain (I have the ban-stick though!):D Wouldn't change anything, though, as I know you are thinking about it (http://www.basketweaving101.net/)! :naughty:

I have the ban-stick though!:D

The only ban worthy offense here is the goofy from-the-box limitation. :grinyes:

Gio, that is a super cool effect/idea!
I wish I had thought of that :)

Wasn't there any bit of paper with smaller lettering in that instruction sheet? :p
:lol:
Actually Ioan, there wasn't.
But what you can't really see in teh photos is that for extra realism I really did use only the Italian language parts of the instructions :D

Jeeeeeez, how in the hell did I miss this funny, inspiring and bloody brilliant thread??? Great work on the car, excellent ideas and execution. All thumbs up for that and:

YOUR DEFINITION OF THE TERM OOB IS BRILLIANT AND SHOULD BECOME THE STANDARD DEFINITION!!!

Keep it up mate!!!

I have finished!


The interior has been installed.
A buddy criticised my key ring. Upon reflection I felt that my first attempt, while being fun, was not very nice. It turned out that there was a spare decal in the set so I made another, neater version. And I very glad that I did. Thanks Ole for being honest and giving constructive criticism - probably the most useful and motivating kind of comment there is :thumbsup:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR250%20COMPLETED/TR250-COMPL_09.jpg



The diorama got one last wash to tone down the waste paper and a pin was glued into the base of the lamp so that it can be pushed into the base. This also means that it can be easily disassembled for when I put it into storage in its shoe box :smokin:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/klutz100/WIPs/250TR%20Hasegawa/TR250%20COMPLETED/TR250-COMPLDIO_03.jpg



Finished photos can be seen HERE (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=5794235#post5794235)

sensational work, i love it!!! :popcorn: