My 98 Tahoe finally lost its transfer case, growling to a hault this afternoon. I think for 218k that is not so bad, but I dread the thought of replacing it now. How difficult is that to drop that case, and any special tools or tips I need to know? I don't have a service manual...

I probably am going to go the used or rebuilt route considering the miles. I can get a new one for $1,200, but don't think it is worth it as I will probably only keep it for another 2 years or so. Probaby looking at $200-300 used or $600-700 rebuilt...

Let me know if you have any experiences with this or suggestions on what to look out for. One guy I was talking with tonight said the most common source of failure is low fluid where it seeps out of the tailshaft. He said to watch out for saturated oil/grime in that area on used ones. Mine was always up on the Auto trac II fluid but had made some clicking noises for over half a year...

Thanks,
Dave

My 98 Tahoe finally lost its transfer case, growling to a hault this afternoon. I think for 218k that is not so bad, but I dread the thought of replacing it now. How difficult is that to drop that case, and any special tools or tips I need to know? I don't have a service manual...

I probably am going to go the used or rebuilt route considering the miles. I can get a new one for $1,200, but don't think it is worth it as I will probably only keep it for another 2 years or so. Probaby looking at $200-300 used or $600-700 rebuilt...

Let me know if you have any experiences with this or suggestions on what to look out for. One guy I was talking with tonight said the most common source of failure is low fluid where it seeps out of the tailshaft. He said to watch out for saturated oil/grime in that area on used ones. Mine was always up on the Auto trac II fluid but had made some clicking noises for over half a year...

Thanks,
Dave


how many miles do you go on the trac II transfer case fluid changes????

how many miles do you go on the trac II transfer case fluid changes????

I was going aprox. 50K between fluid changes. The fluid always looked pretty good, even after it started the clicking (at about 180K). You may want to change more often if you do a lot of towing or plowing...

I drained the fluid and dropped the driveshafts today. Fluid looked a little darker than normal, but level was all the way up. Some slight metal particles in the fluid, but not real bad. I saved it in a 2 liter bottle to check it out more later.

So, does anyone know what is the best way to drop this thing? Looks like I should probably split it just behind the trans with the 6 bolts there. There is another seam 8" back or so with 6 nuts, but it looks like a gasket between that seam. I am going to jack up the trans and remove the crossmember support as that looks like it has to be gone to slide this out...

Most new Transfer cases are remans,no such as a new one.Jasper is one choice with a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty.Inspect the driveshaft yoke for deep grooves and that is a sign of the bushing is bad.The yoke is a dealer part only and comes with the u joint installed

I was going aprox. 50K between fluid changes. The fluid always looked pretty good, even after it started the clicking (at about 180K). You may want to change more often if you do a lot of towing or plowing...

I drained the fluid and dropped the driveshafts today. Fluid looked a little darker than normal, but level was all the way up. Some slight metal particles in the fluid, but not real bad. I saved it in a 2 liter bottle to check it out more later.

So, does anyone know what is the best way to drop this thing? Looks like I should probably split it just behind the trans with the 6 bolts there. There is another seam 8" back or so with 6 nuts, but it looks like a gasket between that seam. I am going to jack up the trans and remove the crossmember support as that looks like it has to be gone to slide this out...

thanks for that info on how you maintained your transfercase...the failure after that many miles is reasonable..

I have never done this transfercase removal but give your posting some time and someone will help...

Most new Transfer cases are remans,no such as a new one.Jasper is one choice with a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty.Inspect the driveshaft yoke for deep grooves and that is a sign of the bushing is bad.The yoke is a dealer part only and comes with the u joint installed

Well, that was the price from my Chevy dealer so i'm pretty sure that is an original GM part... I agree though if you buy from any auto parts house they will typically all be remanufactured...

No grooves of the yoke, but thanks for the tip there. I think I will take it to the guy who i talked to who rebuilds them as he is local and I can get him to split it and give me a quote on the rebuild.

thanks for that info on how you maintained your transfercase...the failure after that many miles is reasonable..

I have never done this transfercase removal but give your posting some time and someone will help...

Sure, any time... I agree, I am happy about it lasting as long as it did. This truck has actually been very dependable and it doesn't owe me anything! The big thing is always keep up on you fluid and filter changes and look for the early signs of stuff wearing our before it's too late. I let this transfer case go as I was hoping to get rid of it before this time. I decided to keep it fior towing etc. after I bought my HHR SS as I couldn't get much $ for it anyway... :(

Ughhh... I am really frustrated now. I replaced the transfer case and now found that the transmission itself is gone! :( There is no reverse, I couldn't even back it down off the car ramps. So now I have to pull all that apart again and foot the bill for a trans now too. Not a good day...

We pulled the old transfer case apart and it was definitely gone. The rear output shaft beasring was blown apart and the snap ring back there had destroyed the back case half. It was tough to get apart as that snap ring was just mulched in there.

I wonder if the transfer case locked at some point and took the reverse band of the trans along with it. It is even difficult to shift now, it jambs in reverse sometimes... Time to pull it all back out. I just need a day to cool down I guess! :)

Ughhh... I am really frustrated now. I replaced the transfer case and now found that the transmission itself is gone! :( There is no reverse, I couldn't even back it down off the car ramps. So now I have to pull all that apart again and foot the bill for a trans now too. Not a good day...

We pulled the old transfer case apart and it was definitely gone. The rear output shaft beasring was blown apart and the snap ring back there had destroyed the back case half. It was tough to get apart as that snap ring was just mulched in there.

I wonder if the transfer case locked at some point and took the reverse band of the trans along with it. It is even difficult to shift now, it jambs in reverse sometimes... Time to pull it all back out. I just need a day to cool down I guess! :)



time out for a few days think before spending any more money...

I'd unload it ..

Update: Found a good used trans with 87K on it for $475 with a 6 mo. warranty (crossing fingers) that should last me for a while. I am having a tough time getting that trans. out though. Man, those bellhousing bolts are tough to get at! Just have the top two to get off yet... Any suggestions?

I am hoping to slide the trans back over the exhaust crossover. Don't want to pull that if at all possible. It looks very tough (and rusty!) I know that disconnecting those fluid lines is going to be tough also... Back to the garage!

I feel like I am having a conversation with myself, but...

I finally finished the job up last night! :) It was a bear getting that trans out of there for sure. The top two belhousing bolts I ended up reaching from the top using a ratcheting box end wrench. (Always a good reason to buy more tools!) I had to drop just the drivers side of the exhaust crossover pipe and pull down on it while I slid the trans back over it. Even harder to get the new one back up in there of course... Very tight!

Flushed the cooler lines out with brake cleaner and compressed air. Man, there was a lot of filings and crud in there and in the old trans pan when I dropped that!

Shifts and coast very nice now. I am sure that the bearing in the transfer case was dragging that all down for some time. It was just gradual of course, but it is so much quieter and smoother now. Good for another 200K hopefully, right? :)

since you did this yourself and care was taken to remove the contaminates, you probably will get a lot more miles out of this vehicle....

replacing the fluids after 10,ooomi and reinspecting for condition would be a good thing to do ..

thanks for that report and good luck

Yes, good suggestion... I planned on doing the fluid change in 5-10K mi. I think that the fluids are cheap (relative to this whole trans job!) and it is a good idea to get any debris out of there...

It was a PITA to do this job, and I don't want to have to do it again! I think that besides the front brakes and some steering components this truck is pretty solid though. It should last a while yet.

Sorry for your lose sprucegoose. I'm fighting the same problem myself but mine happened at 110K.

My '99 Tahoe was locked in Auto 4 Wheel drive because the 4x4 Control Module went bad apparently (when I pushed the 2 wheel drive button, it would flash a few times and then the 4 Auto light would come back on). I was too busy to have it looked at and kept on driving my 100 mile daily freeway commute for a month. Then one morning at about 40 mph heard a loud bang and then metal grinding. I was able to get her to go forward slowly with a lot of grinding noise but she won't go backwards.

Since it was such a violent bang and jerk, the people I've spoken with think my transmission was damaged along with the transfer case. Since I'm having such a hard time removing the transfer case and hearing your story, I'm going to have them both rebuilt.

I can't seem to get the transfer case to drop. There just doesn't seem to be enough room to push the transfer case back far enough to clear the shaft coming from the transmission. Can you tell me how you were able to drop the transfer case and walk me through the steps?

Gratefully,

Kevin


:banghead:

Glad to hear it's back on the road. Transmissions are scary.

Sorry for your lose sprucegoose. I'm fighting the same problem myself but mine happened at 110K.

My '99 Tahoe was locked in Auto 4 Wheel drive because the 4x4 Control Module went bad apparently (when I pushed the 2 wheel drive button, it would flash a few times and then the 4 Auto light would come back on). I was too busy to have it looked at and kept on driving my 100 mile daily freeway commute for a month. Then one morning at about 40 mph heard a loud bang and then metal grinding. I was able to get her to go forward slowly with a lot of grinding noise but she won't go backwards.

Since it was such a violent bang and jerk, the people I've spoken with think my transmission was damaged along with the transfer case. Since I'm having such a hard time removing the transfer case and hearing your story, I'm going to have them both rebuilt.

I can't seem to get the transfer case to drop. There just doesn't seem to be enough room to push the transfer case back far enough to clear the shaft coming from the transmission. Can you tell me how you were able to drop the transfer case and walk me through the steps?

Gratefully,

Kevin


:banghead:

Now you know for a fact that this vehicle is only designed to operate in 2wd on solid dry ground ...when operating at high speeds in 4wd you are damaging this drivetrain so fast that your lucky it didn't lock up on the hyway and cause an accident...


how long do you go on your transfercase trac II fluid changes...??

If the transfer case is working properly the lite should flash 2X when going in/out 4wd..


this is gonna be very expensive to repair....2-3,000.oo...

I was able to get her to go forward slowly with a lot of grinding noise but she won't go backwards.

I can't seem to get the transfer case to drop. There just doesn't seem to be enough room to push the transfer case back far enough to clear the shaft coming from the transmission. Can you tell me how you were able to drop the transfer case and walk me through the steps?

:banghead:

Hi Kevin,
Sorry to hear of your probs and that I didn't reply till now. For some reason the forum doesn't seem to be notoifying my subscriptions anymore...

Yup, it sure sounds like it took out the trans. as well, same exact symtoms as mine. I didn't actually have too much problem clearing the tailshaft to get it out. I removed the driveshaft, drained the transfer case, unplugged all the sensors and got the wiring harness clear. Next I jacked up the trans. slightly (with a board under the pan) to take the weight off the crossmember support and then unbolted and removed that. My son and I then slid the case back off the splined shaft and rotated the tail upward slightly to the drivers side to clear the tail end. That was about it... Hope that helps.

There is a chance there are some differences with the trans., transfer case, (and adapter between them) on the 99. Is your case a 246 like mine? There is a stamped tag on one side of the case...