Page updated on 12-13-2017

Driver's side window regulator shot and more.......


azmojoman
03-10-2003, 10:10 PM
Yesterday, I did a little research and pulled out my back seat and rear shelf so I could get to the rear speakers and replace the blown original equipment. That went fine.

Impressed with my work, I decided to tackle a project long left untouched. My driver's side window regulator went bad a year or so ago. I got it in the up position and haven't messed with it since, but decided to give it a try. Sure enough after popping off the door cover, I managed to wiggle the contacts to the regulator (controller), which I had long ago taken apart and direct wired to bypass the OEM harness connector. For a while I was able to restore function to the switch and motor.

Unfortunately it wouldn't stay working and I neglected to make sure the window was back full up before really getting into it.

Now I have messed it up to the point that the controller no longer is clicking at all, none of the windows work (or the sunroof) or the remote door lock.

Anybody have a similar problem?

Know where ot get a replacement controller?

Help?

I have a sheet of plastic taped to the door for the ride to work in the a.m. but feel like a moron for not leaving well enough alone. duh.....

azmojoman
03-10-2003, 11:08 PM
that i already checked all the fuses. none blown, but maybe there's a fusible link that's blown? any ideas ? thx

azmojoman
03-12-2003, 11:19 AM
In case anyone is wondering how to get the window glass up when the controller is dead, here's what I did last night (that plastic and duct taped window opening gets old in a hurry).

Disconnect the wiring to the window motor. Run a long wire from the battery positive. Attach another wire from one of the motor leads (two terminals are inside the plactic connector which is attached to the door metal) to ground. touch the hot wire to the other motor lead. Voila!

Actually I can't recall whether I grounded the green wire or the blue wire. If it doesn't run the window up immediately when you touch the hot wire to the motor lead inside the plastic harness connector, stop (don't just keep making sparks fly) and switch the ground to the other connector. disconnect all wires immediately once the window is full up.

This did not fix the overall problem for me but at least I have the glass back up.

Now I am wondering if I just didn't detect a blown fuse when trying to diagnose why all the other windows, door remote and sunroof aren't working. The Infiniti fuse identifier on the fuse box door has damn poor information on which fuse does what. None are labelled window motor, door locks, etc. If anyone knows which fuse protects those circuits, it would save me some time in rechecking the fuses.

azmojoman
03-12-2003, 07:22 PM
under the hood, inside a black box near the battery, not in the fuse box under the dash. yes, the 30 amp fuse was blown, so after a trip to the Nissan dealer (or maybe just the local parts store) and figuring out how to extract the rascal, i should be back in business (except for the driver's side window that probably still won't work because of the pre-existing problem with its controller).

even though nobody has responded to my posts here, i hope the info in this thread will be helpful;l to someone else "down the road".

azmojoman
03-19-2003, 06:27 PM
I need the master controller that sits in a white plastic box with an 8 wire connector.

boingo82
03-19-2003, 09:54 PM
OK...here's where I'm helpful. ;)

First, the fuse box thing...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid20/p25aa9f0ab1cd654e417ef9ca1aec17f4/fdbfab92.gif.orig.gif 4th pic in this album (http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291851895&idx=4) Imagestation may require you to register to see the full fuse relay image...
I scanned the fuse map dealie out of my 1992 FSM. Icannot guarantee that Infiniti didn't change something with the fuses between 1992 and 1994, but I believe you'll find it helpful. :)

As for the power window regulator...

A few months ago my driver's side window started acting up, sometimes not even seeming to notice that I'd pressed the switch. It wasn't like the motor was straining or stuck or anything, it just wouldn't turn on at all. It was an infrequent problem that became more and more frequent as time progressed...sounds like what prob. you have.

What we did to fix it, instead of purchasing an entire new power window relay (the white box inside the door) we just opened said box and cleaned the contacts on the switch within. I also have a 1994 and the contacts were filthy from years of use. I believe we used rubbing alcohol. After the cleaning, the switch worked fine. I suggest you try this before spending money on another relay, when this might fix the problem.

If that doesn't work and you want to purchase the part, here are some things to try:
Post an ad in the G20 Classifieds forum here on Automotiveforums.com
Send a PM to
WinterG20 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?action=getinfo&userid=16500) I happen to know she is currently parting out a G20 and she might still have that part.
Check ebay. There are almost always lots of G's getting parted out...seems they all get totaled eventually. (Thankfully, very few break down entirely. :) )
Try http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/Default2.asp, the parts dept of Scottsdale Infiniti in AZ. They are basically the nation's largest parts dealer and treat all of us really well...great prices and right now shipping's free.

Best of luck with that!! :)

boingo82
03-19-2003, 09:55 PM
Ohhh. BTW I have NO CLUE why the rest of your electricals aren't working...maybe a fuse problem?

azmojoman
03-20-2003, 11:08 AM
Thx for the response, Boingo. The pics out of the FSM are useful and I have printed for future reference. However, it turned out that it was the big 30 amp fuse in the black box by battery that had blown. Replacing that restored my remote door locks, alarm and power sunroof, but now all 4 power windows don't work, due, I think to excessive f@@@ing around with the controller (the 8 wire device in driver's door). I tried cleaning the contacts, but I also had to resolder the 8 connectors, which were working loose, and may have shorted something on the board.

Do you know anywhere where a full copy of a FSM is posted? that would help to ID the part properly and maybe to diagnose and fix this mess.
I found a post on the G20.net site offering G20 parts and got a response that offered a controller from a '91 but not sure if it changed from 91 to 94. I also have a request for a part price quote in to Scottsdale Infiniti.

btw, I did try Winter's Ebay sale, but alas she had already sold the controller box. Maybe I'll find something else useful from her parting out though.

Thx for the help!

boingo82
03-21-2003, 11:42 PM
You're very unlikely to find an entire FSM scanned up on the internet - the pages I linked you to were scanned by me personally when someone else had fuse box problems. If I were you, I'd watch on eBay. That's where I got my 3 FSM's from (I've since sold one). If you don't get the exact model year for your car, it's not the end of the world - Infiniti only really made changes to the car between 1993 and 1994, so anything 1994-1996 ought to suit you fine.

This one (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2408073545&category=6762) is well worth the $20 BuyItNow even if half the stuff is irrelavent - and not THAT much changed from 93-94.

BTW don't fall for any of the "FSM on CD" things for $30 - I have that set and I'd be more than willing to "store a backup" at your place for $7. ;)

azmojoman
03-22-2003, 08:10 AM
I hopped right on that 92 FSM on Ebay, even though it is 2 years earlier than mine. My problems right now are electrical and I've found that the window amplifier (weird name for the controller...) fits 91 thru 96 so I'm hoping the rest of the electrical will be similar too. If I find a 94 FSM I'll pass the 92 on to another G20 enthusiast.

I would be very happy to store a backup of your CD for the small fee you quoted. How do I do that deal?

Thanks.

BTW. although getting to the rear speakers is an engineer's dream and an owner's nightmare, my replacement speakers (Pioneers) sound great! Reinstalling the rear deack, rear saeat back and rear seat bottom took much less time than the disassembly.

azmojoman
03-22-2003, 08:24 AM
has anyone had the experience where when the driver's side controller (called a "window amplifier" by Infiniti) goes, all the windows no longer operate. I will do some tinkering this weekend to make sure the motors are still working in (probably just will test one) other doors. I am hoping when I replace the driver's side window amplifier, the others will work again too. they (except driver side) were all workin fine until i f***ed with the driver's side and blew the 30 amp fuse. Replacing the fuse restored the function of the sunroof motor, remote locks and alarm, but not the windows.

dang frustrating, but i have a FSM from a 92 on the way to help figure it out.

btw, the quote from Scottsdale infiniti was $63 for the amplifier. I have a quote for aused one from a 91 for $40. i think i'll go new, but if anyone has a spare amp at a good price, pls let me know.

azmojoman
03-22-2003, 06:22 PM
the good news is that except for the driver's side power window, which i think will run again as soon as i buy a new window amplifier, all three other windows are running just fine now.

here's the embarrassing part.......

i "never" use the power window lock on the center console, but sometime while i was working on all the above described "repairs", i must have......well you guess...i'm too embarassed to say. didn't take much work to fix the problem. just a little touch in the right spot, you might say.

why do i share this stupidity. i don't know.

azmojoman
04-01-2003, 12:32 PM
My new window amplifier ($63 at Scottsdale Infiniti) came in yesterday. Because I had long ago cut out the plastic interconnect to the amplifier so that I could work on the amplifier innards, the first thing I had to do was pry off the female side of the interconnection, so I could push my slide on connectors onto the pins (first twisting 4 of the 8 so that they wouldn't short out against each other - the slide on connectors are quite a bit larger than the pins, even though I used the smallest I could find).

Once ascertaining that everything worked OK, I slid the amplifier back into its white plastic box, snapped the box into place, then put plenty of silicone sealant around the connections to make sure 1) they don't come off, and 2) they don't short out.

If anyone else ever has to work on the amplifier again, they will wonder what the F#@& happened in there, but it works great and I have my driver's window operating for the first time in months.........

Also got an official service manual in the mail (bought on e-Bay) yesterday, so new projects like replacing the brake pads and the struts may be in the offing.

maxx_94_G20t
04-21-2003, 01:20 PM
Hey azmojo, pls. see my thread under "power window failure"--wanted to verify something with you. Thanks.

Add your comment to this topic!